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ryano

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Posts posted by ryano


  1. On 3/14/2021 at 4:28 AM, KenJWan said:

    Hey, just saw your post.

    It’s a synthetic last with a hinge. Originally started as a longer, narrower lace-up last. I sanded down the toe to make it the rounder shape I wanted, as well as flattened it a bit. I’ve since refined it a bit more and will send it back to the manufacturer to get it properly made.

    As for the machine, it’s an Adler post-bed I have access to at the shop.

    I’ve further refined the style and when I get the new last, plan to make up some new ones.

     

     

    I am getting ready to build a couple pairs of boots, but still need to decide on a couple of things. I have gotten one set of lasts in, but the toe length is very short by almost an inch. I have been in contact with a British last maker, but they do not seem to be in a hurry to get things done by taking forever to send and reply emails. 

    I am curious on how you made your footbed and what tools you used. Lisa Sorrell makes a very convincing argument on how she makes her footbeds by using a cheap stitch groover, a seaming awl and a leather knife; she does not use a welt knife, a feathering knife nor even a welt channel plough as she does construct a typical holdfast.

    I see you went with Dr Sole half soles. I really like their soles and the colors they offer, but I run into issues with them not having the size and color of sole that I want and if they have the soles, they do not have the heels in that size, I am mainly refering to the red/brown color options and the green options, shipping is also pretty high coming from Vietnam.

    I would be interested in reading more on the particulars of the construction of your boots.

    Thank you!  

     


  2. On 2/5/2013 at 3:09 PM, SmokeCigars said:

    Test the atom wax with a stained piece of scrap first. If you apply it with a cloth, sponge, brush, or anything you rub the surface with, it will remove some finish.

    I've heard atom wax works really good with an airbrush applied in thin coats, but I don't have an airbrush

    I apply dye and leather balm with atom wax with separate pieces of shearling, defuzz it first, I use the clothes dryer to do the defuzzing, Be sure to wash the piece of the shearing with the atom wax to reuse it. You can get the atom wax in several colors and I use black for MC bags and it leaves a nice satin finish.l let the dye dry first, wipe off the residue then apply the atom wax finish.

    As far as acrylic finished go, I really like Weaver's Tuff Coat, it comes in clear or black.I wet a sponge to apply WT, I squeeze the water out leaving sponge still wet, but not dripping wet, put the sponbe over the bottle and do a quick flip to get the finish on the sponge. 

    In my opinion, I truly believe Angelus makes the best dyes and finishes, you can get the finish in any color, they have finish like atom wax and several types of acrylic finishes. Their dye is super penetrating and can even dye an edge slicked with gum tragacanth. They also have great leather paint.They also have an acrylic antique finish.


  3. 4 hours ago, toxo said:

    Can only be Cechaflo.

    That is he, and he does have a video on quilting, he glued the linen onto the foam. I do not have a good source for the foam anymore, there are different grades of linen applied to the sew foam, but I never had any issues with the low grade linen, actually I think it may be by thread count. There is an Amish buggy shop just down the road from Weaver Leather that use carry it, but I cannot remember their name, but Cowboybob or sewmun may know, they may also know a good soarce, all you can do is as them as they are father and son that owns Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine. Have you asked your leather source about sewfoam?

    I use the memory foam, like mentioned in the above post, to redo old Harley and Indian seats. I have never quilted with it, but again you would have to glue linen on it. Good luck and practice with cheap vinyl upholstery as it will act almost the same as your leather.


  4. 1 hour ago, GavinO said:

    Hi all,

    I am looking to experiment with quilting leather. I use old/discarded/surplus upholstery leather so it is a little lighter and has a bit more movement than some of the traditional craft leathers. 

    I am inspired by the style and details of vintage cars so I would like to reproduce that kind of lush voluminous bulk that you get in something like those old car seats. 

    I have done a little - just put some fleece in between the lining and the leather and sewed it down. While the result feels nice to handle it doesnt have the nice chunkier relief I am looking for. 

    Is it a matter of a bulkier layer? Or I need to create non flat channels and stuff them then sew it down/seal it in maybe? I don't know how to quilt with standard quilting fabric, and I amn't looking to make patchwork, more just sewing shapes to get volume and shape (like classic Chanel bags, but I want to experiment with different shapes too) 

    Any help much appreciated!

    Gavin.

    Gavin,

    The product usually used to get the quilting effect is sewfoam, it is foam with cloth glued on it so the stitching does not pull through. To get the quilted effect and not have the quilting sewn to the liner, sewfoam is it, if you do want the quilting sewn into your linet, then just use foam. You can make sew foam by spray gluing old sheets to the foam or super cheap and thin linen.

    Now you have to add a shrinking allowance to your cut leather as it shrinks as it gets sewn, be sure to glue the foam to the leather and start stitching in the center and work your way out. Practice to get your shrinking allowances, there is a Latino gentleman on youtube that does a great job teaching and he does not say a word, he does a great job with leather upholstery, i will try to find him and give you the link. Good luck,


  5. On 8/11/2018 at 2:02 AM, Evo160K said:

    Would anyone be able to post a close-up picture of the Throat Plate Channeling Knife that's used in a Singer 45K69 leather shoe soling machine (perhaps others)?  I'm nearing completion of a 45K69 restoration and may have to fabricate the channeling knife.  It cuts the protective groove in the shoe sole that the thread lays in.   Other than these images ( small, medium and large sizes) from the parts manual, I have no detail on the actual shape of the cutting end.  The knife fits in that slot in the throat plate in the picture and is held in place with the screw.  Thank you, thank you very much.

    img020.jpg

    IMG_5409.JPG

    What is the thin, flat piece of metal, held down with the vertical slotted screw, just to the right of the arrow shaft, opposite the arrow point? The part looks like it may have a part number on it. 

     


  6. 17 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

    Those dies look pretty odd to me, especially the one with the retaining spring. I saw where a metric conversion converted the outside 24 line snap as 15mm, but did not show conversions of the 2 interlocking pieces, so I would be afraid to try them. Also beware of plastic die listings, they will surely fail. Used dies get listed, on ebay, one in awhile under United Carr.

    Here is a set of 24 line snap dies that look correct and is only 25% of the usual price of 100 bucks, as you can see look a little different than the ones you posted the link for.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIE-SET-FOR-HEAVY-DUTY-MIGHTY-SNAP-SIZE-24-5-8-FREE-SHIPPING-USA/264745077024?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3da4094920:g:UGoAAOSwO9ZezpAq&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%2BoOBl%2BSxuMciqcoA0WrBomRi4LsqlaDIcA9UrZpXteVa%2FizpLLQVGAyGgtCq0MIjZG2M%2FHVhM5K1BMRvvrqaBHqeXdKK7vx5yRw%2By2zbJ2dze1m8ERco8CkyjdywrXZ23y%2FKFWFIPPsxzn%2FEB80PhQTTDT4DlA8ZWAXQcDRYJNkpZlZMY%2Bd%2FpdRuYJpL8NHrBKVTm%2FR5CFIS70Np6Ovu6qfkkJXLEt2sxJRvbYZhUARJLt2Rz1ZGe3kGjPUzGhtkuBt0U6lOBYteXnZLmzKmq6TmuZ5qJEkQMeW%2FtcBVzvZExeRSMMnEpzsEqUiMJb3gqp5PnJduMoYaHO7MrdSRYRftUS46Ig%2FVmydVbCrFRy%2BA8YBvmsruVTC967c16yHdhvkvHMRkg81hboAcmMAdeDx%2FHqQRNTxKbcB7tGP8wL%2F8l1HwpN5wa0Zvmmk%2BD12xFASnyeHPbNEAqmbd1ltwvjjBLRkt0BFt1DyLxrvmIautl0NjdQwvUXBxU9wl%2FrupPh5ZhI7cSJhaSsCPHy5cBHj4gUmaAC4VGTR9X1q58L4SQz13tGMwt1CvbwgZLrCzRyVUwiFsdAiEJdokkTg8oqnswBmYsk18toKb2v7%2BdS0DqGJzFDh3f5DSR9ehuxyStyYGEysMpYc3wKzOkRqbcvjlY222hXuXAsI9E60moevMPQeUKFLJOQ7hrnzxvfpx4wEmZMHiXVkrI6D5P974ev1rlQnsQYG5eMcEByfPrwEqpXB4aR%2B2jycdIGjkjO6p9j1Zu9yQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A264745077024581f3c6bb92c47c1a7c046fa6f069d7a|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524


  7. 1 hour ago, Loudcherokee said:

    Thanks! That one on ebay is listed out of stock but I found a similar kit and placed an order! Appreciate the assistance! 

    I will still need to either find some dies or get a good hand tool for the line 20/24 style button snaps though. I plan to use those on a few things. 

    LC

    I will look for some line 24 snap dies a little later today.


  8. 9 hours ago, Loudcherokee said:

    Thanks! I'll check those out. I looked at the line 20 and line 24 snaps. Those are different than what I'm using, which was a 655. They will require a different tool all together. 

    LC

    Another name for the snaps you using is Segma Snaps. 

    I just found this search, has everything you need and you will have enough money left for over for a coffee.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Press-Machine-Snap-Button-Grommet-Rivets-Eyelets-Fastener-Dies-Mold-Set-DIY/124424546080?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D0f8d709abb764719a70dfbb227467871%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D392918784131%26itm%3D124424546080%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598


  9. 27 minutes ago, Loudcherokee said:

    Hello, 

    I'm on the hunt for an affordable hand press to set buttons and snaps into my projects. I tried last night to set some with the little rods and anvil that came with my button kit and it was a nightmare. I ruined about 10 posts, caps, and sockets before I got one to take hold. 

    I found this one on Amazon, but it doesn't come with any dies. I can only find dies for 15mm buttons. I want to be able to use 10mm and 12.5mm buttons as well. 

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VB2SXQS/?coliid=I2A921RJXL9IEF&colid=238SAUAALRARW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

     

    Is there anything similar out there that doesn't cost $200? 

    LC

    The Amazon price is too much. What size snaps are you setting, line 20, line 24? 


  10. On 4/1/2020 at 3:50 PM, ScottEnglish said:

    Thanks for your comment alexitbe. It's worth my knowing that thicker vegetable-tanned belly leather is used for insoles. I appreciate your mentioning this.

    The reason for using belly leather is that you want the insole (the leather against your foot) to conform to your foot.

    Did you ever make your shoes, if so, how did they turn out?


  11. I just noticed that there was a discrepancy between the thread chart that I posted my previous post and this chart. I have trust in Bob's chart so I corrected my previous post and changed the word ticket number to V number.

     

    The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

    The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads.

    Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads.

    Minimum Needle US/Metric Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket] Government Size Yds/Pound Break Strength Diameter
    12/80 33 (T30) [Tkt 80] AA 13,800 1.8 lbs .0050" (.127mm)
    14/90 46 (T45) [Tkt 60] B 9,600 7.5 lbs .0094" (.238mm)
    16/100/ or 18/110 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] E 6,000 11 lbs .0115" (.292mm)
    19/120 92 (T90) [Tkt 30] F 4,200 14.5 lbs .0133" (.337mm)
    22/140 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] FF 3,000 22 lbs .0163" (.414mm)
    23/160 207 (T210) [Tkt 15] 3 Cord 2,000 32 lbs .0200" (.508mm)
    25/200 277 (T270) [Tkt 10] 4 Cord 1,500 45 lbs .0231" (.586mm)
    26/220 346 (T350) [Tkt 8] 5 Cord 1,200 53 lbs .0258" (.655mm)
    27/250 415 (T400) [Tkt 7] 6 Cord 1,050 72 lbs .0283" (.718mm)
    30/330 554 (T600) [Tkt 5] 8 Cord 655 83 lbs .0326" (.828mm

  12. 19 hours ago, modanistil said:

    So woud it go with a tex 380? Amann serabraid as reference.Sorry not smart enough for this.

     

     

     

    Thread Type Tex Size V number Government Size Yarn Construction (Denier x Ply)
    Nylon T-70 69 E 210 X 3
    T-90 92 F 210 X 4
    T-135 138 FF 420 X 3
    T-210 207 #3 630 X 3
    T-270 277 #4 840 X 3
    T-350 346 #5 840 X 4
    T-400 415 #6 1260 X 3
    T-600 554 #8 1680 X 3
    T-700 693 #10 1890 X 3
         
    Polyester         T-70 69 E 220 X 3
    T-90 92 F 220 X 4
    T-135 138 FF 420 X 3
    T-210 207 #3 630 X 3
    T-270 277 #4 840 X 3
    T-350 346 #5 1100 X 3
    T-400 415 #6 1300 X 3
    T-600 554 #8 1300 X 4
    T-700 693 #10 2000 X 3

     

    I should have typed 138 instead of 134. 138 is the V number on the chart which is the same as Tex size 135(T-135)  You will see thread size, typed or mentioned, by the V number, by the Tex number or somewhere close, either way folks will know which size you are talking about. I just remember the V number sizes 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346 and 415 because I do not use and thread lower than 69 or higher than 415.

    A good rule of thumb: The highest number of thread that most industrial sewing machines use, that has a presser foot lift of half inch or less is 138, there is several reasons for this from thread tension to needle size. A good example is if it looks like a Singer 111w, series (flatbed machine) or 153series (referenced as cylinder arm or  cylinderbed machine) then 138 is max. If you need to use 207 and up, you need a larger machine with a lift of 5/8 or highe, examples are if the machine looks like a Singer 45k series with 5/8" presser foot lift, a Juki 441 with 3 /4" presser foot lift and it's clones or an Adler 205-370 series an it's clone with each having 3/4" presser foot lift. 

     Of coarse there are many exceptions to the rule of what I mentioned, but what I gave you will give you a large head start, if I explained myself well.

    Here is a link for what thread to use with what needle:

    https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html


  13. 32 minutes ago, modanistil said:

    Hi was looking at the same machine but for much less. Have you done any projects with it? Is it a true triple feed? Can you use tex 500 tread with it?

    Tex 500 is way to heavy for this machine, 134 is about the heaviest thread. Here is a site that will explain industrial thread:

    https://www.servicethread.com/blog/industrial-sewing-thread-sizes-explained

     


  14. 3 hours ago, whistler said:

    A year or so back I posted on this forum some pictures of shoe last(sp). I was trying to get an offer on them. I have a great number maybe 2-3,000 (maybe more) that are available now. Another bunch available later as the previous owner of property wants to keep some. He’s the one who acquired them. They were acquired when a shoe factory closed. I know nothing about them so questions pertaining to design or styles, I will not be able to help you. I also have some other leather cutting dies type devices. Hope I can get pictures up. Thanks to all  

    tried to get photos up but a single photo exceeded the mb limits. Got to figure that one out and try later. 

    I am looking for several shoe lasts, but boy not that many, I do not even think it would be worth your time to look for 5 or 6 pair. Are the lasts wooden or plastic?

    The buckle dies are off Single Monk Strap Loafers, the shoe print shaped dies are mid soles, soles, foot beds or a combination of all three. The cut off shoe print looking dies are for inner sole that your foot goes against. Do you happen to know the name of the factory they come out of, knowing what the factory made may aid you in the sale of the items?


  15. On 12/29/2020 at 11:47 AM, fredk said:

    I'm not sure

    #2 is for a shoe sole, I think its a book binders edger

    I finally found what #2 tool is

    I have a tool like the #2 tool where the wheel height is adjustable. Whether it is used on soles or books, I think the wheel itself is used to mark the leather. I have seen this wheeled tool used, by 2 shoe makers on youtube, to mark the sole of high end shoes like Allen Edmond's. With having an adjustable wheel height/depth of just over 125", I wonder if it is used for something else other than marking the leather? ??

     

     

    #2 is a Slide Box Seat Wheel Tool for shoe and boot heal patterns. Here is a link:

    https://www.carreducker.com/shop/shoe-making/tools/slide-box-seat-wheel/


  16. 17 hours ago, Rhale said:

    Does anyone know where I can purchase 5/32” flat, straight buck stitching chisels in 6 to 8 prongs!  All I can find in 3 prong! Thanks 

     

    Tim found exactly what you want, 4mm = 5/32, link below.. It states on the page that the guy used the same set to lace the belt, to me the lace holes look angled so I enlarged the picture and they do look angled, am I seeing things things incorrectly or are they angled? 

    https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/lacing-and-buckstitching-supplies/products/buckstitch-chisels

     

    I have a 5/32 chisel in two separate style hand presses. One is a cheap auto feed hole punch machine that Tandy sold years ago and a dedicated chisel in a cast iron hand press type machine, but would take a while. I always put a chisel in my Landis 3, set the stitch length and start feeding it around, works great, I remove the shuttle to do this. Sewing machines can be modified to do a lot hole punching type work.


  17. On 12/29/2020 at 11:47 AM, fredk said:

    I'm not sure

    #2 is for a shoe sole, I think its a book binders edger

     

    I have a tool like the #2 tool where the wheel height is adjustable. Whether it is used on soles or books, I think the wheel itself is used to mark the leather. I have seen this wheeled tool used, by 2 shoe makers on youtube, to mark the sole of high end shoes like Allen Edmond's. With having an adjustable wheel height/depth of just over 125", I wonder if it is used for something else other than marking the leather? ??

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