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ryano

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Posts posted by ryano


  1. 1 minute ago, 327fed said:

    I have a Consew 225 that is in good shape with clutch motor. Got it through an in-law who services sewing machines and It works ok and will barely do my one use on holsters. He showed me how-where to lube it. When I do a holster it might sew 2 minutes, then sit in my shop for a month or 2. How often to oil it? Unlikely I will live long enough to put 8 hours on it.

    Also, does anybody know the shaft size to upsize to a larger pulley on the machine? 

    Merry Christmas,

    Firstly, I sure hope you will live long enough to put well over 8 hours on it. If you leave it sit for that long of time, i would oil it every time you use it and do not use 3 in 1 oil. I always oil my machine the day before using, every night if sewing daily and put a rag under the needle to collect oil that drips over night. I oil the hook and bobbin case every bobbin change no matter what size of bobbin.

    Your machine should turn over very freely with the handwheel, if it does not, the clutch arm may need adjusted, one way to check this is to remove the belt and see how it turns over, if it turns over a lot more free, then the clutch may need adjusted, what does your brother in law think? Sewmun aka Bob Kovar should know shaft size or have a fix, pulley etc. if you still need aid in turning your machine over.


  2. On 12/22/2020 at 5:46 PM, FRANKPKNY said:

    I can now sell the unit $1200.00 includes creating for shipment

    That is a lot of cash for that machine. Are you going to share your profits with the guys that helped you,  I mean their time is money as well when it comes to sales? We would have helped anyway, but I am sure they would have liked to know you were going to sell it. i am pretty sure they feel used. It kind of reminds of this Amish saying he really needed this old bench vise, pleated, begged so it go handed to him, just to see it in his auction the following week, when he was confronted, he said he just needed it for his auction.

     


  3. Hillside Harness 330-893-1510 between 8:00am-10:30am EST.    4205 TR 629.    Millersburg, Oh 44654

    They are Amish, so call and ask for their catalog between said time.  They make a good share of their hardware and have an endless supply of hardware molds. They do have some hardware made in China, but it is listed as so. They also seam to have the best pricing and the pricing gets lower with quantity.

    Great supplies, leather and finishes as well.

    Weaver's leather sells hardware they have made in China, also very expensive retail pricing if you do not have an account, whole sale if you do.


  4. 32 minutes ago, MiamiBruno said:

    Thank you for looking.  Do you have a picture of your machine?  Here's mine with a ribbon binder She works well

    Yes, I have a picture, but not quite sure how to load it. I click on the attachment and it only reads documents, camera, and loaded pictures, it does not have a button for pictures, which would make it a little easier i must have to load pictures elsewhere first.little

    My binder looks like yours, but mine has.the top edge guide and is on a 6" or 8" W & G stand. I watched the guy sew bind his last hat with my machine, unbolt it and sold it to me for mere pennies. I also bought a Singer 46w68 with added roller foot and "reversing mechanism operated by foot treadle," which I cannot figure out how it goes into reverse, but it sews wonderfully.

    I will figure how to load pictures and will add it. What do you use your machine for, if you use it. I watched a youtube video of a guy making a straw hat and it really amazed me, I missed that part at the hat shop.


  5. 4 hours ago, MiamiBruno said:

    am looking for the plait guide (the guide that keeps hats in place before they are sewn).  I think I may have given the impression that I wanted the whole sewing machine, but I have my Willcox & Gibbs and I'm just trying to find the guide that goes to it.  In the picture, it is the guide that is screwed into the front of the machine.

    I looked at my machine and it has a top mounted edge guide and a binder mounted on the side.


  6. On 12/15/2020 at 12:53 PM, TouchOfFur said:
    • Will this machine cut leather into fringe while keeping a half inch untouched?
    • We need to feed the leather in, have it cut, and be able to remove it from the same way without it passing all the way through.  Is that how it works?

    There are specialized machines for making fringe that sit on an industrial sewing stand and use a clutch motor, one in mind is a Chandler model.802 fringe cutting machine. There are also some foreign models.  

    This is an old listing for a Chandler, just click on it and it will take to the old listing. I did not want to bring in the picture, that cropped somehow or the video at the bottom, but here you go anyways.

     

    Here is a video of a guy making fringe with a strap cutter, 

     


  7. 45 minutes ago, ButtonLady said:

    Allstarco sells a bottom loading spot die.  Its advantages are (1) rhinestones + settings don't need to be pre-assembled; and (2) your fingertips don't get sore.  This style appears to be the exception, with top loading dies being preferred (sore fingers notwithstanding).

    I do understand setting upside down on straps or belts, but I rarely just set spots on belts or straps in a linear line. The crystals and stones I use do not fall apart??? One other thing is the setters I use are nominal in size, so if the spot is 1/2" , then tje setter is .50" The are oversized/ sprung on the prongs to stay in the setter without falling out.


  8. 2 hours ago, Uwe said:

    This post sounds like a first world problem. It also sounds like some Guerilla advertising gimmick for Cobra. I’m not really sure what to make of it. You appear to have worked yourself into a state over a sewing machine you’ve never worked with but suddenly can’t live without. If nothing else is acceptable in your mind you will just have to wait. My advice is to spent he extra $500 on a good therapist instead.

     

    Thanks for the laugh! My thoughts coincide with yours exactly. Heck, I would buy an old Singer 153-101 or equivalent with reverse by Singer, Juki or pfaff, I would even go for a Consew 227R and save the rest.. He could even buy a 441 clone for that money.

    If this is real, Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Machine, he will help you out, great guy to deal with!


  9. 5 hours ago, battlemunky said:

    Welcome back and glad you made it through, sounds like quite the ordeal. Hope you can remain healthy and pick up on everything where you left off.

    Thank you! I did see where I responded to someone in early 2016, then everything else was 2012 and earlier. 

    I just got a new leg that is so much better than my first one. The new one I can lock fast at any angle or lock it to not bend any further than that angle, The new leg also locks, while standing and if I stub my toe, so to speak, my first leg I could trip over an ant. So with all that being said, the new leg really helps me out on being able to work around the shop. 


  10. 1 hour ago, ButtonLady said:

    Thanks so much, ryano!  This is really helpful information.  We're developing a spot die that fits Osborne machines, which was originally designed for making fabric-covered buttons.  Die will be single loading.  I'm trying to figure out whether people prefer top loading to bottom loading (pros and cons above).

     "So you work for CS Osborn? I just responded to a post that lists a few tools that CS Osborne should bring back out, that I think would sell pretty good"

     

    If I have this right:  you can load spots into the top (prongs DOWN)... or into the bottom (prongs UP) but you can pivot the die to the top so that the spots are in the prongs DOWN position (?).  That's pretty cool.  This might be the 1911 patent (it describes a "rotating bottom plate"):

    "When I load into the bottom, the prongs will be down. All work is done so you can see your work and where the spot is going to be placed, this holds true for every machine I listed."

    https://patents.google.com/patent/US1041884A/en  " This is the correct patent of the FE Smith spot setting machine. "

     

    Okay, seeing the work in front of you when setting by machine is preferable to flipping over the leather.  If you're loading spots individually by hand, are sore fingers a problem? —this is my primary concern.

     "Correct on seeing the work in front of you when setting the spots, any other way you would be blinded. They are hard enough to get right when you can see where you are putting them. Yes, you do get sore fingers when loading from the bottom and gloves just do not work, so your poor index finger gets sore loading. I actually super glued a thin piece of leather on my finger one time and used acetone to take it off."

     

     

     When designing the spot setters, the dies should be thin as possible and be parallel to the driver (perpendicular to the work piece) for at least the height and combination of an angle to clear the neighboring spots so the setter will not hit them. So what I am trying to say, for instance, is the setter does not have to be thin for the height of the spot, it can be thin for half the height of the spot and shot away at a 45degree angle to clear the neighboring spots so you would have more material on the setter.

     The FE Smith setters are mainly stamped out and formed, so tooling would have to be made and you would have stamping machines and lathe work or screw machines for the drivers and anvils. Any other designs could be made on a lathe or screw machines. Some mill work would also be needed.

    If you are not familiar with screw machines, check them out. They can really spit some parts out very fast.There is a small.screw machine shop near me that does a great job.


  11. I am looking for a post bed machine, either a Singer 168w101 walking foot machine or equivalent, but would be interested in anything else. Singer made a huge one as well, but cannot remember the number 4?-?? Or something. Now I have seen several posts cracked at the base from mis handing, they would so fine for a bit and act up sew fine, act up etc.

    I am also looking for a Singer 16 series face plate.

    Trade or cash

    Thank you!


  12. 1 hour ago, maxdaddy said:

    In the time you've been gone I've made this forum a part of my daily routine. Hopefully you'll be able to integrate a fun and creative outlet into your daily routines now. It certainly sounds like you've had 8-years of daly routines that were anything but fun and creative. 

    Welcome back!

    I have now spent a few hours looking around the site and it has truly grown, a lot. I see the harness making is grouped into the saddles and tack, I looked for quite some time and did not run into any harness making, going to have to add to that. The harness tools and equipment is getting really hard to find. I should take pictures of some of my harness making machines and tooling. For some reason I am wanting to make a pare of boots, I have everything but a post bed machine, so time to do some trading. Lol

    Anyway, great job on the site!!!!!


  13. On 7/20/2020 at 9:41 AM, csosborne said:

    good morning,

     

    Hope all is well

    C.S. OBORNE & CO offers this kind of rosette cutters with and without handles. We also have a source for special shape and size punches of your interest.
    please see link for our website and where you can purchase from us.

    thank you
    Daniel

    I wish you still made the serrated edge concho cutters like the one listed for sale, it is not scalloped like the ones you sell. At least make the serrated 1 3/4" concho cutter. While you are at it, re make the old style English Point Strapend cutters, the ones before the made in England ones and re make the old style Round Edge Edgers. We harness makers cannot find any of the old stuff anymore and the strapend cutters are too short of a radius point and too wide for the size of strap. (Weavers makes the old style, but they are way too wide and way have too short of a point).

    Everything I mentioned would sell like hot cakes, I'm telling ya!


  14. On 10/2/2020 at 12:21 PM, Voyageurs said:

    Hey folks,

      I am looking to buy US made parts for my products such as buckles, rivets, and such. Don't want foreign made so looking for a decent source of US, Canadian and EU made products.

     

    What's out there?

    Hillside Harness 330-893-1510 between 8:00am-10:30am EST.    4205 TR 629.    Millersburg, Oh 44654

    They are Amish, so call and ask for their catalog between said time.  They make a good share of their hardware and have an endless supply of hardware molds. 

    Great supplies, leather and finishes as well.


  15. I have an Standard Rivet Automatic spot machine that loads into a raceway from a hopper that I load. I also have a Smith single shot spot setter that I can load down from the top,(prongs down), or up into the bottom (prongs down), the die pivots to be able to load it from the top. Lastly, I have a few Standard Rivet No. 2 machines I load up into the bottom of the die with prongs down so I can see my work.

    Oh, I also load spots up into a rivet press, prongs down so I can see my work.

    I am sure there are some harness makers on here that use stops. My auto is used mainly for round spots and the single shots for some round, but mainly not round.


  16. 41 minutes ago, cardinal leather said:

    welcome back, happy to see you made it thru what had to b a trying experience.

    Thank you! I just went through my leather shop the other day and it was like Christmas for me, but what a mess I have now. I had to call a harness shop to help identify some of my machines I use to make harness with, not a lot, but a few. 

    I kind of just started off easy and made a couple of belts. I have also been sharpening a lot of knives and splitter blades. 

    Ryan


  17. Firstly, I hope everyone is doing well and in good health! I would like to wish you all a Merry Christmas.

    I was an active member and have not been on here for several years and would like to tell my story on why I have not been around, if anyone even remembers me that is. lol  I got very sick with an infection from a knee surgery and had over 60 surgeries the past 8 years and was in the hospital no less than 3 weeks at a time and up 3 months a couple of times.

    One of my earlier surgeries, I woke up several days later thinking I just home from a biological ship expedition in the Antarctica, what had happened was I lost too much blood and got overdosed by the anesthesia. The doctors initially thought I had a stroke, but didn't, I did however lose a language, part of my math skills a partial memory loss, I was very lucky to say the least. I did end up losing my left leg above the knee. After months of therapy I can walk and do somethings I use to enjoy, with one being leatherworking. 

    I just wanted to share my story on why I have been away for so long. I really look forward to reading some posts.

    Take care,

    Ryan

     


  18. Hello, I am in need of presser feet(inside part #s5816, 28325. and outside part #s 5890, 28326) for a singer 43-5. Feet from a 42-5, 16-88 and 16-188 will also fit. I also would like to find a better faceplate as well. It is held on with 3 screws on the outer edge( part #13254 or5791), not the 2 screws in the center.

    The part numbers I gave are only a few of several that fit this machine. Please reply here and thanks!

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