hwinbermuda

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About hwinbermuda

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    Leatherworker

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    Looking up Singer 45k58

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  1. hwinbermuda

    Is JT Bachelors in London still trading?

    They were about three weeks ago, and @Matt S mentioned them to me earlier this week, so I think he uses them. If they are busy in store they sometimes do not pick up calls. But they've been the same since I was in Hackney, in 1983. H
  2. hwinbermuda

    Round knife cutting mat.

    You can use a router to trim the edges.
  3. You can do it without modding it, but be aware the blade's corners may snag the leather, the modding only came about after years of normal spokeshaves. I have seen people do it with a block plane, but have never tried it.  If you decide to mod a spokeshave blade, it needs sharpening at a 10 deg bevel. H
  4. hwinbermuda

    Bill

  5. You can do it without modding it, but be aware the blade's corners may snag the leather, the modding only came about after years of normal spokeshaves. I have seen people do it with a block plane, but have never tried it. I have two shiny ceramic tiles 40 cm sq x 1.2 cm high 'no more nails'ed togetherjust for this and some skiving jobs. Yes it can, if you want a parer, you need something firm, but good small edge skivers can be made with 1" or 1/2" hacksaw blades, with the sawtheeth ground down. Great for awkward internal corners etc.
  6. There's me being quiet on the forum, too. Yup, bookbinders use a modified spokeshave to pare leathers, and a right royal pain it can be, until you get used to it. It is a key skill in hand bookbinding with leather, but also works for other leather jobs onto boards, such as boxes etc. It is a 'must have component' if you want bookbinding qualifications. So get a load of cheap skins and practice, and in a shorter time than you'd think afte your first disaster, you will be pleased with the results. Guide to modifying the blade: http://www.hewit.com/skin_deep/?volume=16&article=2 has a good aticle on modifying the blade, The modification is so that the corners do not snag. From Jeff Peachey's page ( https://jeffpeachey.com/2008/05/05/towards-a-type-study-of-stanley-151-spokeshaves/ ) HOW TO USE A SPOKESHAVE First, some wise words from Burdett: “The use of the spokeshave demands confidence born of experience–sometimes bitter” (Burdett 1975, 173) A few general observations: The blade needs to be very sharp and only protrude a few thousands of an inch below the sole. Make sure the blade is level, and not cutting deeper on one side. Your skin can rapidly be ruined if this is the case. The spokeshave needs to be in motion before it starts to cut the leather, sort of a swooping motion. Hold it lightly with your fingers and thumb– you don’t need to have a death grip completly around each handle. Keep the front edge of the spokeshave pressed flat on the leather. Ordinarily the spokeshave moves fairly quickly. Once the leather gets very thin it is advisable to go slowly to avoid tearing. Press down a little harder on the front of the spokeshave, and lighter on the blade. If the blade starts to chatter, re-sharpen and make sure you have modified it correctly for leather. If the leather keeps puckering in the mouth, and gets cut through, the mouth is too big and the blade needs to be shimmed from behind. Be vigilant about cleaning bits of leather from under the leather–they can cause tears or an uneven thickness. Skewing the blade in use, and approaching the leather from differing angles helps get a clean cut and not just skate across the surface. Watching the color of the leather change is a good visual indication of the depth of the cut. Folding the leather over on top of itself doubles any thickness discrepancies for quick identification of areas that need more work. Goatskin is the easiest to spokeshave. Calf and Tawed skin are more difficult. Both Hewit in Scotland and Peachy in NY are great sources for tools too. Harry
  7. My three year full time, degree level course at college in London in 1980 ish covered Leathergoods of all kinds design, pattern cutting, making etc, Factory Management, and one year full time Saddlery and ancilliary trades. There was no available, similar apprenticeship, but we took the same City and Guilds of London examinations as the specialist apprentices in say Light Leathergoods Production, Cutting, Skiving etc, leading towards the final qualifications. At todays rates the annual cost would be more than £9000, plus living expenses, in London (Cordwainers College has been subsumed into the London College of Fashion, part of the University of the Arts, London). If my business was bigger, I would offer an apprenticeship, but I would be their employer (hand in glove with the UK goverment nowadays), and when we get the sales going through, I will look into this, as Cordwainers no longer exists in the same format. H
  8. hwinbermuda

    Tandy Manchester closing in June only online remaining

    Mike has it covered well, I am disappointed at the closure, but based on the recent centralising to US that they have exhibited, it is not surprising. Based on the $1 to £1 conversion rate we have seen from Tandy over the years, and split orders sent at full postage per split, I calculated on a £500 (UK) there would be a probable increase on about 2% (which could easily be lost or increased in currency fluctuations) This takes a random (highish) post and pack cost, Duty, VAT and Handling charge into account. And was Importing a product classified with HS Code 8206.00.0000 to GB from US, which was hand tools. I think that the biggest loss is one of competition in a small marketplace. I feel for the always helpful staff, and time, as I will have to source from many places instead of one, which was the main reason to shop there. H
  9. hwinbermuda

    1920s Leather Cartridge bag. Help please

    Where in the UK? I am in Norfolk, and I do restorations. Personal Message me, if you're interested H
  10. hwinbermuda

    Burnishing - how many RPM?

    Well said, sir. Harry
  11. hwinbermuda

    Landis #3 stitcher needles & Awl availability

    This is truly sad news. Heartfelt best wishes to Keith and his family Harry
  12. I got horizontal and vertical from Amazon a while back Look for wallet inserts H
  13. hwinbermuda

    Burnishing - how many RPM?

    The material of the burnisher head, the physical speed at the point of contact with the leather, the type of leather AND the pressure put upon the leather onto the burnisher are all components of 'what you need to sort out what suits you'. Unfortunately Mike "the physical speed at the point of contact with the leather" will get you caught up in that. I personally put it all together and try it, raher than working it out, but a large burnishing wheel has a much faster contact area than a small one - watch the inside label versus the outside edge of a vynil disc on a recored player. BTW, most of my veg tan burnishing I do by hand with a rough rag, but as people of the forum have realised I am a wee bit old fahioned. Best H
  14. Not a problem I've experienced, but will bow to other's experience. Using a pound type board, on a sturdy bench, on strong legs should be ok. I like the leaning board suggestion, though.
  15. hwinbermuda

    Cheap Roo Skins

    Snap, me too. But it was 11 pm in Queensland when I wrote, I think its before 5 AM at the moment. H