Contributing Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About JJN

  • Rank
  • Birthday October 7

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Grants Pass, OR
  • Interests
    Sewing, Shooting, Machined Pens, Fishing, Polaris RZR, Web Design, Knives & Guns

LW Info

  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

Recent Profile Visitors

3,191 profile views
  1. Yay! That has to feel good getting that thing out of there. If you have a micrometer or good caliper, measure the diameter across the threads to the nearest thousands of an inch. Then measure along the length 10 threads, peak to peak also to the nearest thousands of an inch. Post those measurements and we can figure it out. The screw could be metric or is could be fractional inch. Most likely is not a screw you can get locally. If you have a parts manual, look it up and google the part number. You did a good job extracting that screw without causing any damage. Wipe all the metal shaving out of the machine!
  2. JJN

    Consew 226R-L or 206RB - Which to buy?

    Hi @dirtbagcreative, from what you have posted I would get the 206RB. It is $300 cheaper so you can buy a servo motor and speed reducer. The 206RB has a large 'M' bobbin. the 226R had a smaller 'G' bobbin. The 206RB has a horizontal axis bobbin, loads from the bottom. I have a 206RB and a 206RB-1. I love both machines. Can you post photos? Does this machine have a number after the 206RB? side note: I see you are in the Central Valley. I used to live in the Fresno/Clovis area. Where are you? John
  3. Thanks Gregg, I just hope @Vinito reads this post. I hope he hasn't given up on getting his answer on LW.
  4. @shoepatcher, thanks for the comment. It is a system 81.
  5. Thanks @Constabulary, I'll get the measurements from the owner to compare.
  6. Thanks for the comments. I'm sure you guys that have been around these old machines have seen it all already. Too bad this machine isn't closer. I would love to restore it to a working machine but I really don't have the need or space. I am attracted to the old Singers though.
  7. I just talked to the owner (dealer). He wasn't aware of any subclass but said the bobbin is about the same diameter as a small singer patcher bobbin but almost twice as deep. He didn't have any actual bobbins but said he as pre-wound bobbins.
  8. I am looking at a Metro Spezial 9346 patcher. From what I have read here it was sold by Pfaff and was manufactured by Claes. Does that sound right? Anyway I posted a photo of the machine and the ID plate but I don't know how to tell if it is a 10, 20 or 30 model. Is this a small bobbin or a large bobbin? These photos are all I have at this point. @shoepatcher, any idea? Also would like to know the value of this machine. Edit: I just noticed that this machine has been re-painted.
  9. I looked at my machine. Although it is difficult to see or photograph, it appears the retainer clip holds the wick somewhere at the back end of the needle bar frame. I looked at the parts manual and now understand where it is going. the clip (46) attaches to the needle bar frame rock shaft assembly (47) to lubricate the needle bar frame slide block (44). From where the pad sits, the wick goes straight across the bottom to the rock shaft assembly where the wick goes under the retainer (mounted on the rock shaft assembly) from the right side of the retainer and coils up on the left side of the retainer above the slide block. It also will lubricate the needle bar frame where it slides against the main casting. I hope this makes sense.
  10. I have a 563. I'll take a look and let you know.
  11. I saw this Singer 31-15 while looking around on Craiglist today. It is too far for me to go, even thought it is only $10. I thought the model ID plate was unusual because of the patent dates on it, so I stole a photo to post here. Any comments?
  12. JJN

    Industrial machines. (Video)

    I am guessing here. I know a stitch can sometimes get skipped at turns because the thread loop formed at the scarf gets twisted and deformed with the material. Possibly they have a way to predict that problem when changing sewing directions and compensate for it with a slight turn of the needle bar. It could be very important in a high speed production environment.
  13. JJN

    Ideal Clicker Machine Model C

    Assuming you have 220 single phase available, I would replace the motor with a new or used one with 220 single phase. The motor on mine is a Dayton 3 horsepower, 1725 rpm.
  14. This dial adjusts the STEPPING height of the walking feet. If you are sewing material with constant thickness, you can keep is set low. It doesn't matter how thick, just that the thickness is consistent. If you are sewing a project that has large differences in thickness like sewing a seam with a thick strap or thick seam in the middle, you will want to set this dial to a higher value so the walking feet can step over the change in thickness in mid-seam. If you don't increase the step height, the walking foot will push the strap out of position or stop feeding the material at a thick seam. Think if it as shuffling your feet when you are walking or high stepping like you are marching or climbing stairs. I have the Juki your machine is copied from. I don't have the dial (I wish it did), but can make the same adjustment by loosening a nut and moving a slide up or down on the back side of the machine. The dial allows you to change this adjustment 'on the fly' as you are sewing. Congratulations on the new machine!
  15. Contact MJ Foley and ask if they have the Main Shaft, part #D1201-055-B00 (same part as the LU-562). I have had good luck getting genuine Juki 562/3 parts from them. http://www.mjfoleyco.com/