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JJN

Contributing Member
  • Content Count

    341
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About JJN

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday October 7

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://bonafideproducts.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grants Pass, OR
  • Interests
    Sewing, Shooting, Machined Pens, Fishing, Polaris RZR, Web Design, Knives & Guns

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Novice
  • Interested in learning about
    Leatherworking
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

Recent Profile Visitors

6,306 profile views
  1. Hi @Smooooth, I am using this machine for the same single purpose as I was before. I am happy with the results as an edge finisher. That machine runs like crazy and is trouble free. If you use a larger thread you may have to adjust some of the clearances around the guides and loopers. The holes in the loopers might be a little tight for a heaver thread. I am still using the Tex 45 bonded nylon with a #14 needle.
  2. That is a beautiful machine. Nice job getting it cleaned up.
  3. The Chikon looks like a Consew 206rb. I have 2 of them. They are great machines. That would be my pick.
  4. I am not familiar with those makes and models. They are probably clones of better known designs. Can you provide photos of both of the machines so members can give you better advise? Condition is also a big factor and photos of the actual machines will help.
  5. Belle, Hopefully someone that has knowledge of the 226R will chime in here. Here are some general rules. If two metal parts are in contact and spin, push, slide or rub they need to be oiled. Lily white sewing machine oil is all you need. When in doubt, oil it. Look for fiber wicks that carry oil into hard to get places and keep them oiled. Look under the slide-out cover on the top right of the machine. Look for felt pads and any moving parts and oil them. I am not sure but the main bearing on the handwheel may be a sealed ball or roller bearing. The gears under the bobbin should be oiled. Good luck! John
  6. Hi Belle, Here is a manual for the Juki 562/563 that is very similar to your Consew 226. Look at the lubrication instructions and see if it covers your questions. John Juki_LU-563_Instruction_Keyfooter.pdf
  7. I think what Wiz was asking is are the U size bobbins you are getting 'in spec''. Sometimes aftermarket parts are made with slight dimensional errors and cause problems.
  8. Never run your machine with a loaded bobbin while you are not actually sewing. Such as winding a bobbin. Even if the upper thread is removed, the thread will birdnest around the hook and cause the kind of jamming that will trigger your safety clutch. If you did this, this is most likely the cause of your problems. I suspect you still have thread wrapped around your bobbin case or hook. I suggest you clear any remaining thread from your hook before you sew again.
  9. Read the manual about the safety clutch. It sounds it is disengaged.
  10. I look in the Oregon area. Mostly southern Oregon. I used to see good industrial walking foot machines quite often in the $500 to $800 range. Not too many Singers but usually Consew 226R or 206RB, Pfaffs 145, 545 & 1245, Juki 562 or 563 and occasional Nakajima 280L. This last year they are impossible to find. And when you do they are $900 to $1200. Maybe people are hanging on to their machines for home based businesses.
  11. They are both in the upholstery class of sewing machines. They both sew with #69 to #138 thread. The Pfaff is considered to be a better machine with German design and manufacture. New Pfaff machines are made in China. The Pfaff 1245 may have a slightly higher lift capability but I am not sure. Look up the subclass specification for the Pfaff you are looking at. Parts for the Pfaff will generally be more expensive and harder to find. The Pfaff 1245 castings had some changes over the years. Maybe someone here can elaborate on that. I have a Pfaff 545 H4 that I bought a couple years ago for $150 with table and clutch motor. It is in storage until I can clean it up and service it. The 545 is the predecessor to the 1245. I have two Consew 206RB's that I am using. They were made in 1991 and 1993. I love those machines for some reason. I paid $500 each for those. One needed a new table and they both needed servo motor upgrades from the clutch motors.
  12. The price seems high for a 'head only'. A table, motor, thread stand, light, belt and bobbin winder will add about $400 to your machine. The 1245 has a built-in bobbin winder. You should be able to find a complete running machine in this class for $1000-1200 or less. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines has a brand new Consew 206rb-5 for $1395. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html
  13. I plan on buying this synchronized binder for my Juki 441 for $138.30. I have bought other items from KHSEW and the build quality was excellent! They have a good selection of binders you can use on this attachment for various widths of binding material and and thicknesses of assemblies. It comes from Hong Kong but shipping was surprisingly fast. You will have to create an account before you can view prices. https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=182&product_id=1902
  14. I have been using PU belts for a while now. I found a large roll (50 feet) cheap on ebay to try it out. Very handy to be able to set up a machine without having to run to the auto parts store and hope you measured right and they have my size in stock. it is a little stretchy because it doesn't have the cloth belting like v-belts, but grips well for me once I get the tension right. It is easy to melt together and never had had a connection break.
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