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JJN

Contributing Member
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    293
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About JJN

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday October 7

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  • Website URL
    https://bonafideproducts.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Grants Pass, OR
  • Interests
    Sewing, Shooting, Machined Pens, Fishing, Polaris RZR, Web Design, Knives & Guns

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Novice
  • Interested in learning about
    Leatherworking
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    google

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  1. Consew 225 The machine head has sunken in to the table opening. Needs to have the rubber mounts replaced so the bed sits just above the table surface. The drip pan is loose under the table. You don't know if the machine needs parts or adjustments before you can use it. It has a clutch motor that you probably will want to replace with a servo. This model does not have reverse. The machine looks a little rough, needs cleaning. Also, don't put much value in old thread. My experience with old thread is that it breaks and frays. The bonding breaks down and the ends will split when cut and makes it hard to thread the needle. Buy new thread. Will this machine, when cleaned, adjusted and repaired be the machine you want or need? Be picky and get the machine you really want the first time.
  2. This is not my machine and I am not trying to buy it. I am posting it here for general interest. This machine is currently for sale on Ebay. It is a Consew 328RB double needle, walking foot with split needle bar. Apparently this is a warehouse find. Never used, still in original packaging with the factory sew-off material still in it. This a beautiful machine.
  3. Here are a couple machines that might be what you are looking for from dealers that support this forum. https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-26/ https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb341.html
  4. The Juki and the Singer are two very different machines. I think the Juki LU-563 would be your 'go to' machine for most work. The Singer patcher is a machine more suited for the occasional work that needs the specific capabilities of a patcher.
  5. Glenn, Yes, you sent me a copy. I need to scan it and put a copy on this forum. Thanks again!
  6. Thanks guys, I'll pick some up tomorrow and try them out.
  7. Does anyone know what the size/pitch is for the bottom mounting screws (bolts) that attach the head to the table? This for an Adler 30-15 but imagine they might be the same for all the Adler 30 series patchers. There are 4 of them of course.
  8. That was a great deal. I bought a head recently that needed a table, motor etc. I found a nearly new juki 8700 on Craigslist for 350. It had a a like new table, servo motor, spool stand, bobbin winder and drawer. I put the other head on it and plan to sell the 8700 head to recoup my expenses. I think I saved a lot of money over buying those items separately and paying shipping on top of that.
  9. Bonus, that is a large bobbin model. How much is it? Does it have a table and motor?
  10. I agree that parts for the Singer are easier to get. But, based on condition, I would get the Pfaff. The singer is a repaint and makes me question the history and wear on that machine. The Pfaff has original paint and decals. The bed wear is minimal. It looks like it has a lot of life left. You need to inspect closely the mechanism of both machines to make a final decision.
  11. It uses the small G size bobbin. It also has a servo motor.
  12. The owner is asking $1500. I am not interested in buying this machine as I have too many (just the right amount) at the moment. The price seems about $500 too high anyway. I am always looking to increase my knowledge about industrial machines and I couldn't find anything on this one. I am curious about bobbin size on this model. I should call the owner and see if they can tell me.
  13. I saw this Consew 256R-1 up for sale today. I know about the 255R but have never heard of a 256R. I googled it and nothing but a couple that have sold show up. No information at all. The ad says it has extra long stitch and high lift. I posted it here for future reference.
  14. Put a large plastic bag around the entire head to protect from moisture and catch small parts that can fall off from vibration in a truck or trailer, like thread tension assemblies. I know from bring home one of my first machines. I assume you are moving it yourself by your U-Haul reference. I would place the heads, wrapped in plastic, in boxes with styrofoam or other padding. Remove the top thread guide pins if you can. Use blue painters tape to secure adjustment screws. Good luck and have a safe move.
  15. Just a guess. It looks like the underside stitches that are 'off' have the knot very close to the surface and the thread is pushed to one side as it comes out of the knot. I cannot see the knot on the straight stitches. Maybe tighten the upper tension a little to bring the knot up higher in the leather more consistently. Check the bobbin winding and the upper and lower thread path to see if something is causing the tension to fluctuate. Also, maybe your needle is deflecting as you sew. Make sure the leather is feeding straight without any side pressure on the needle.
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