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@Constabulary, I forgot to mention, that is a very nice post about your 29k71 restoration. It has inspired me to get busy and make my machine beautiful again.

@Constabulary, thanks for the ink and information. Good eye seeing that the nut is missing. That is part #8 on the diagram, right? I found the manual on this forum that shows how to service this machine. I would like to move the hand wheel to the front. It looks like I need the parts in the assembly #21 in the photo below. Are these parts available?

This Sutton stand came with a Singer 29K72 that I wrote about in another post. I plan to remove the existing motor and put a Servo motor in it. I will have to remove the adjustable motor mount (I think). The stand has the original speed reducer in it. I would like to modify it to work with the new servo motor. Has anyone already done this? If so, some photos would be appreciated. Any other ideas to update this stand. I plan on de-rusting, cleaning and repainting it when done.

I have to stop looking on FB Marketplace and Craigslist. I found this Singer 29K72 for sale that I thought looked to be in pretty good shape. For some reason I felt I needed to have a large bobbin patcher and this one had a good price. The listing had a $100 price on it. I committed to buy it quickly but they felt they needed to get $200 now. I didn't quibble. The only problem now was that it was in Washington, about an hour from the Canadian border. That is about 515 miles from where I live in southern Oregon. My lovely wife said we could use a mini vacation so we hooked up the travel trailer (toy hauler) and made a 3 day trip out of it. I also picked up a Singer 16-188 with servo motor and speed reducer that was in Washington to help make the trip worthwhile. The 29K72 had more rust on it than I thought it had from the photos, but it was complete and the hand wheel turned freely. Storing a sewing machine in an open air barn for a couple years is not good. It came on a Sutton stand that looks like another project for me. I'll post some photos of that in another topic. Take a look at these photos and if you can, give me your advice on rust removal and how much do you think I should disassemble the machine to properly clean and lubricate it. The serial number starts with EY. I looked at ISMACS and the records stop at EX. I figure it might be from the late 1960's.

Consew 225 The machine head has sunken in to the table opening. Needs to have the rubber mounts replaced so the bed sits just above the table surface. The drip pan is loose under the table. You don't know if the machine needs parts or adjustments before you can use it. It has a clutch motor that you probably will want to replace with a servo. This model does not have reverse. The machine looks a little rough, needs cleaning. Also, don't put much value in old thread. My experience with old thread is that it breaks and frays. The bonding breaks down and the ends will split when cut and makes it hard to thread the needle. Buy new thread. Will this machine, when cleaned, adjusted and repaired be the machine you want or need? Be picky and get the machine you really want the first time.

This is not my machine and I am not trying to buy it. I am posting it here for general interest. This machine is currently for sale on Ebay. It is a Consew 328RB double needle, walking foot with split needle bar. Apparently this is a warehouse find. Never used, still in original packaging with the factory sew-off material still in it. This a beautiful machine.

Here are a couple machines that might be what you are looking for from dealers that support this forum. https://leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-26/ https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb341.html

The Juki and the Singer are two very different machines. I think the Juki LU-563 would be your 'go to' machine for most work. The Singer patcher is a machine more suited for the occasional work that needs the specific capabilities of a patcher.

Glenn, Yes, you sent me a copy. I need to scan it and put a copy on this forum. Thanks again!

Thanks guys, I'll pick some up tomorrow and try them out.

Does anyone know what the size/pitch is for the bottom mounting screws (bolts) that attach the head to the table? This for an Adler 30-15 but imagine they might be the same for all the Adler 30 series patchers. There are 4 of them of course.

That was a great deal. I bought a head recently that needed a table, motor etc. I found a nearly new juki 8700 on Craigslist for 350. It had a a like new table, servo motor, spool stand, bobbin winder and drawer. I put the other head on it and plan to sell the 8700 head to recoup my expenses. I think I saved a lot of money over buying those items separately and paying shipping on top of that.

Bonus, that is a large bobbin model. How much is it? Does it have a table and motor?

I agree that parts for the Singer are easier to get. But, based on condition, I would get the Pfaff. The singer is a repaint and makes me question the history and wear on that machine. The Pfaff has original paint and decals. The bed wear is minimal. It looks like it has a lot of life left. You need to inspect closely the mechanism of both machines to make a final decision.

It uses the small G size bobbin. It also has a servo motor.

The owner is asking $1500. I am not interested in buying this machine as I have too many (just the right amount) at the moment. The price seems about $500 too high anyway. I am always looking to increase my knowledge about industrial machines and I couldn't find anything on this one. I am curious about bobbin size on this model. I should call the owner and see if they can tell me.

I saw this Consew 256R-1 up for sale today. I know about the 255R but have never heard of a 256R. I googled it and nothing but a couple that have sold show up. No information at all. The ad says it has extra long stitch and high lift. I posted it here for future reference.

Put a large plastic bag around the entire head to protect from moisture and catch small parts that can fall off from vibration in a truck or trailer, like thread tension assemblies. I know from bring home one of my first machines. I assume you are moving it yourself by your U-Haul reference. I would place the heads, wrapped in plastic, in boxes with styrofoam or other padding. Remove the top thread guide pins if you can. Use blue painters tape to secure adjustment screws. Good luck and have a safe move.

Just a guess. It looks like the underside stitches that are 'off' have the knot very close to the surface and the thread is pushed to one side as it comes out of the knot. I cannot see the knot on the straight stitches. Maybe tighten the upper tension a little to bring the knot up higher in the leather more consistently. Check the bobbin winding and the upper and lower thread path to see if something is causing the tension to fluctuate. Also, maybe your needle is deflecting as you sew. Make sure the leather is feeding straight without any side pressure on the needle.

@shoepatcher, thanks for the info. I think I will cut down a standard industrial table to about half size and mount it with a servo. I read about adjusting the needle bar in the manual. It uses an eccentric pivot shaft on the upper crane to do it. Is there enough adjustment to use the 135x16 needles? Or is there another method to change the needle bar height. What is a bobbin winder reel holder/tension rig? Do you have a photo?

That is a lot of machine for the money. Probably more of a cordura and canvas production machine than a leather machine. Mostly because of the auto backtack and thread trimming. I may be wrong about that though with the one stitch at a time feature. The specs say it has 13mm foot lift and can use #18 to #23 needles. It also uses standard Singer style feet. I have a Juki DLN-9010A-SH that is a needle feed with direct drive and all the auto functions that costs about double what this Consew costs. And 14" between the needle and the frame is huge. I thought my 9010 was big and it is only 12". I would like to know how they hold up to heavy use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3cbwuAl67s

@Wizcrafts, thanks for the manuals. I will have time to read them before I pick it up. I will change the needle bar height to use 135x16 needles. Thanks for the tip! @Constabulary, Thanks for the clarification of the subclasses and parts cross reference. At first I thought it might be a large bobbin because I read an earlier thread on here where Cowboy Bob said it was a large bobbin. I later read a very good post you wrote where you explained the differences of the subclasses of the Singer 29, the Adler 30 and the Claes 10 20 & 30. I like the short arm of this machine and the small bobbin will work just fine for my limited uses for this machine. A big bobbin would have been a real bonus though. Bobbins and shuttles should be easy to find. It looks like I can move the hand wheel to the front with no problems. Does the bobbin winder move to the front position also? I think it was a good deal at $200. Is there a resource to look up the year by serial number? This machine is sn 101390.

I just bought this Adler 30-15 I found on Craigslist. It is 500 miles away from me so I had a friend who lives in the same town pick it up for me. I'll get it in about a month. It looks really nice from the photos. It does not have the treadle table so any ideas of how to set it up will help. I am looking for a manual and information about the needle system. I also want to pick up some bobbins. Any help getting this information will be appreciated.

Yay! That has to feel good getting that thing out of there. If you have a micrometer or good caliper, measure the diameter across the threads to the nearest thousands of an inch. Then measure along the length 10 threads, peak to peak also to the nearest thousands of an inch. Post those measurements and we can figure it out. The screw could be metric or is could be fractional inch. Most likely is not a screw you can get locally. If you have a parts manual, look it up and google the part number. You did a good job extracting that screw without causing any damage. Wipe all the metal shaving out of the machine!

Hi @dirtbagcreative, from what you have posted I would get the 206RB. It is $300 cheaper so you can buy a servo motor and speed reducer. The 206RB has a large 'M' bobbin. the 226R had a smaller 'G' bobbin. The 206RB has a horizontal axis bobbin, loads from the bottom. I have a 206RB and a 206RB-1. I love both machines. Can you post photos? Does this machine have a number after the 206RB? side note: I see you are in the Central Valley. I used to live in the Fresno/Clovis area. Where are you? John