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Thanks Gregg, I just hope @Vinito reads this post. I hope he hasn't given up on getting his answer on LW.

@shoepatcher, thanks for the comment. It is a system 81.

Thanks @Constabulary, I'll get the measurements from the owner to compare.

Thanks for the comments. I'm sure you guys that have been around these old machines have seen it all already. Too bad this machine isn't closer. I would love to restore it to a working machine but I really don't have the need or space. I am attracted to the old Singers though.

I just talked to the owner (dealer). He wasn't aware of any subclass but said the bobbin is about the same diameter as a small singer patcher bobbin but almost twice as deep. He didn't have any actual bobbins but said he as pre-wound bobbins.

I am looking at a Metro Spezial 9346 patcher. From what I have read here it was sold by Pfaff and was manufactured by Claes. Does that sound right? Anyway I posted a photo of the machine and the ID plate but I don't know how to tell if it is a 10, 20 or 30 model. Is this a small bobbin or a large bobbin? These photos are all I have at this point. @shoepatcher, any idea? Also would like to know the value of this machine. Edit: I just noticed that this machine has been re-painted.

I looked at my machine. Although it is difficult to see or photograph, it appears the retainer clip holds the wick somewhere at the back end of the needle bar frame. I looked at the parts manual and now understand where it is going. the clip (46) attaches to the needle bar frame rock shaft assembly (47) to lubricate the needle bar frame slide block (44). From where the pad sits, the wick goes straight across the bottom to the rock shaft assembly where the wick goes under the retainer (mounted on the rock shaft assembly) from the right side of the retainer and coils up on the left side of the retainer above the slide block. It also will lubricate the needle bar frame where it slides against the main casting. I hope this makes sense.

I have a 563. I'll take a look and let you know.

I saw this Singer 31-15 while looking around on Craiglist today. It is too far for me to go, even thought it is only $10. I thought the model ID plate was unusual because of the patent dates on it, so I stole a photo to post here. Any comments?

I am guessing here. I know a stitch can sometimes get skipped at turns because the thread loop formed at the scarf gets twisted and deformed with the material. Possibly they have a way to predict that problem when changing sewing directions and compensate for it with a slight turn of the needle bar. It could be very important in a high speed production environment.

Assuming you have 220 single phase available, I would replace the motor with a new or used one with 220 single phase. The motor on mine is a Dayton 3 horsepower, 1725 rpm.

This dial adjusts the STEPPING height of the walking feet. If you are sewing material with constant thickness, you can keep is set low. It doesn't matter how thick, just that the thickness is consistent. If you are sewing a project that has large differences in thickness like sewing a seam with a thick strap or thick seam in the middle, you will want to set this dial to a higher value so the walking feet can step over the change in thickness in mid-seam. If you don't increase the step height, the walking foot will push the strap out of position or stop feeding the material at a thick seam. Think if it as shuffling your feet when you are walking or high stepping like you are marching or climbing stairs. I have the Juki your machine is copied from. I don't have the dial (I wish it did), but can make the same adjustment by loosening a nut and moving a slide up or down on the back side of the machine. The dial allows you to change this adjustment 'on the fly' as you are sewing. Congratulations on the new machine!

Contact MJ Foley and ask if they have the Main Shaft, part #D1201-055-B00 (same part as the LU-562). I have had good luck getting genuine Juki 562/3 parts from them. http://www.mjfoleyco.com/

Use a needle size that is appropriate for the thread you are using. Here is a link to a chart that will help you get the correct combination of needle size and thread size. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Use the pdf file below to select a leather point that gives the look you want. I suggest you start out with 138 thread. Running 207 thread may work on the top thread with 138 in the bobbin but I would get the machine dialed in before you experiment with that. The trouble you are having with removing your work is that the thread needs to be past the bottom of the hook before you can pull the thread up. Make sure the take up arm is at its highest position. Then raise the foot and pull your work out with ease. gb014.pdf

@Arturomex, Here is the manual for the Juki LS-1341. Basically the same machine. Look at pages 12 and 13. http://imisp.net/sewing/juki-ls-1341-instruction-manual.pdf John

It is weird that you have 2 machines with the same problem. What material are you sewing? How many layers? What kind and what weight of thread? What stitch length?

Oh crap! My bad. Please disregard my comments.

Strange. The photos on their website sure look like 111 style. Call Techsew and see what they tell you. I didn't see any 4800 feet available on their website.

From the photos, it appears the Techsew 2800 uses standard 'Singer 111" style feet. The same feet that Consew 225, 226 206rb, Juki 562, 563, 1341, 1541 etc uses. I do not believe the 335 style feet will work. The 4800 is a clone of the Juki 1341, so I would look at accessories that are made for that machine. There aren't many accessories available other than feet. Binders for the Juki 1341 are non-existent. You will have to have them custom made or make them yourself.

I have not scanned the complete manual. I'll try to get it done in my 'spare time'. If you have something in particular you need to see I will try to get that info to you. I got side tracked so my clicker is not running yet. It came with a fairly new Dayton 3hp single phase 220v motor 1725 rpm. The pulley on the motor is about 6". It came with two flywheels. The one on it currently is for a wide leather belt and is thick, smooth and heavy but it is a smaller diameter than the extra flywheel that came with it. The extra flywheel is larger diameter and has gear teeth around it for a geared motor drive and also has a groove for a v-belt.

@turbotexas Glenn sent me a xerox copy of the instruction manual. I have not scanned the entire manual yet, but I do have some of the pages scanned that goes over the adjustments. It is too big to upload here so here is a link. http://johnsr.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/clicker-instructions.pdf John

@Arturomex, For what you are planning to sew, I think the 4800 will work fine. 5/16 veg tan should be no problem. John

It is all assembled and running perfectly. The knee lift bracket was pretty simple to figure out. The foam in the oil reservoir was deteriorated so I replaced it with some new foam. Although the machine turned easily, it took a little time and oil to get 30+ years of inactivity out of the mechanisms. This machine will become one of my favorites.

I am finally getting around to setting up this 'new old stock' Juki LU-563. I needed a table, motor, drip pan, knee lift and all the other misc parts to get it going. I contacted a Juki dealer but they said they didn't have the oil pan I needed. When I pressed the issue, they checked withJuki/Japan and they found the very last genuine drip pan that they had. I also got a genuine Juki knee lift. For the table I found a Juki 8700 that someone bought new and never used. It had a nice plywood top, sturdy legs and a servo motor. I'll sell the new 8700 head and re-coup the cost. I should have this sewing soon. If anyone knows the correct position to mount the knee lift bracket, I would appreciate the information. I don't want to use the trial and error method.

This Techsew model 4800 looks like a clone of the Juki LS-1341 which I have and really like. I looked at the site, read the specs and watched the video. Here are my thoughts. The walking height dial on the top of the machine is a nice feature. I wish my Juki had it. I like the motor and speed reducer combination. It really sews slow and smooth and even has needle positioning system. I consider my Juki able to handle #46 to #138 thread. Possibly it can sew #207. Techsew states their model 4800 can sew up to #277 that would make it possible to sew a proper holster. That surprises me. I am not saying I have a reason to disbelieve this but I would love to see a video of that machine sewing with #277 on top and bottom on a half inch of veg tanned leather. That would make this one machine able to do what I and other members on this forum have always claimed you need two machines to accomplish. Are you close enough to go to their showroom and demo the machine? Ask to see it sew 1/2" with #277 thread. What do you plan on making with this machine? Type and thickness of material or leather and what thickness of thread? It is a nice looking machine with impressive features.