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Everything posted by Naidni

  1. Does anyone have any suggestions for slowing down a Consew machine. I have reduced the size of the drive pulley as small as is possible. when sewing, the machine seems to lack torque to start, so you require lots of pedal, but then the piece takes off. Once you're sewing it is easy to throttle the machine back to a creep with delicate manipulation of the foot pedal. does anyone make a larger handwheel for these machines. I know sailrite makes one for their machine. It occurred to me to machine a 2 part pulley/disc/donutish sorta thing that could be bolted onto the existing handwheel, but I don't want to reinvent...the wheel!!!! Thanks, brent
  2. Naidni

    unknown sole stitcher

    The hooked needle ( green line) follows the awl through the leather and catches the bottom thread ( yellow), ...and then pulls the bottom thread thru the leather to meet the bobbin hook.
  3. I'need a manual for this machine. It is complete, and should sew. It remains un-identified. There is a stamping on a boss that says SWISS MADE. It has a serial number. There is an obscure stamping that reads: F-52 My big problem is thread routing. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED, THANKS!!!!
  4. I see what you mean regarding the scale of the project. Miniature stuff is more difficult for sure. Well Done!!
  5. Nice work. The only thing I would change on your design is to include a second matching handle. Even as small as it is, it "LOOKS" like the single handle would pull the front flap open, even though it probably doesn't. I have wrestled with the same problem as you when it comes to lining. The lining looks as bulky as the body of the purse. I look at expensive designer bags ..and lots of them have that "edge sauce" painted on to hide the exposed leather edge. The liner is hidden inside somehow?? I am not a fan of edge paint. Maybe use thinner lining?? Keep going. You have inspired me to get to work. b
  6. The most difficult part of tooling is the swivel-knife work. smoothly drawn curves can become a horror as the swivel knife over-runs the line or goes too straight for too long. I like to keep a well sharpened blade and make shallow successive cuts.
  7. The gear drive Singers have a weak link in the motor/drive. If they work they are suitable for cloth. If you want a good light duty singer to sew heavier material look for the old style with the shuttle and long bobbin. Maybe????model 127??? These machines had 2 long throat plates extending across the bed of the machine inside or to the right of the needle. I have sewn 5 layers of heavy canvas on one of these machines when a newer rotary hook style Singer would miss every other sticth on such heavy work.
  8. Your machine looks to be a domestic sewing machine...either late 40's or early 50's vintage. It appears to have forward and reverse. From my experience most machines were black prior to 1940. Oil it up and plug it in. It probably sews cloth really nicely. As far as value is concerned, in my area that machine would sell for 40 or 50 dollars. Priced at $100 it would sit on the market for many days because it does not have any extra functions. Determine the price in your local market, or keep it and learn to sew your own clothes.
  9. My machine has three of these thread carriers. the inner, grooved roller is fixed, however the outside slotted shell has 2 seperate slots that can be adjusted to affect the thread path. If you study the picture you can see that where the thread exits the slot. If you look carefully at that ring at about 7:00 o'clock you can see the thread entering the other slot. Can the orientation of the slots affect the thread tension? In my minds eye if the ring was rotated counterclockwise so that the thread exited at ...say...12 o'clock instead of 3 o'clock it would be harder to pull. Am I on the right track??
  10. can you contact me at 780 913 7241

    I have questions about those frobana/simplex sole patchers






  11. This machine is from Calgary...so there must have been a dealer there at one time. has anyone on here any experience with this type of tension regulator ? I imagine that as you rotate the outside ring...the one with the long slots...that the amount of grab on the thread can be adjusted.
  12. This machine works and is complete. I need help figuring out how to adjust the thread feeding system. does anyone out there have one of these machines in working condition that I could talk to in order to get mine adjusted properly? The take-up arm in the second picture moves probably 4 inches left to right...I think it is responsible for pulling the thread back tight after the stitch passes around the shuttle. The third picture is further down the thread delivery chain, but has the same thread carrier as the take-up lever...the outer shell has 3 slots while the inner part has a thread groove. When threading you could put the thread into a slot...go round the inner groove and exit the same slot......or any other combination of in and out. How is this intended to work?? Thanks, brent
  13. I kind of agree.. it resembles the technology in the Simplex Photos. who has any parts for these things? or do I make everything? Same machine. that IS this machine.
  14. Please help ID this machine. Front flywheel like a Frobana ...but too much difference???? Swiss made. does anyone have a manual? The curved needle is really a hook to pull the bottom thread to the top where it engages the upper billhook and shuttle/bobbin holder. Bottom thread is held in 2 "fingers" which present the bottom thread to the needle/hook. how do I adjust the needle to catch the bottom thread ....now it just misses.
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