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About kgg

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    Ontario, Canada

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  1. If the machine is going to used for industrial rather then hobby needs why not seriously look at a true Juki 441, yes the cost is going to be much higher but.. kgg
  2. The Chinese patcher's can be converted to a more standard 135x16 needle series fairly easily by adjusting the needle bar up about 4mm and opening up the bobbin cover plate hole slightly to allow for the larger needle diameter. The bobbin size is it's main downfall from a sewing prospective. The bobbin is really small which means less available bobbin thread thus shorter seam lengths before having to do bobbin changes. kgg
  3. Even through you may have sorted the problem out I figure you may want to look at a video of how to thread your machine. The link ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIKml4yGLSc ) is not for your machine but it has a similar top top thread tensioner system. It is one of the better ones as far as detail goes and if you follow the way it is done you shouldn't have any other top tension problems else you may have a worn out / damaged top tensioner on your machine. The video shows the top thread going over the small post located on the right side of the discs of the top thread tensioner unit. That point of having your top thread go over the post before going to the take-up spring disc has been a topic of much contention. I happen to fall into the category of believing it should go over the post. My reasoning is i) if the thread will not go over the post and sit properly behind the post the thread size is to large for that machine. ii) provides more surface contact area of the top thread between the two tensioner discs. I have done it both ways on my machines and find I get more consistent tension but that just maybe me and the sizes/type of thread I use. Once you get the thread path and tension settled out you should never have to manually thread your machine again when have to or want to change the top thread. i) Cut the old thread just above the old spool and tie the new thread to the old top thread that is still threaded properly through to the needle, ii) Lift and lock the pressor foot in the up position iii) Pull the old thread out of the eye of the needle and pull on the old top thread which will pull the new thread through. iv) Cut the top thread above the knot of old and new thread v) Thread the new thread through the needle. Best of Luck, kgg
  4. If the same thing happens with V92 thread. I would have a tendency to check the tension that you have set your bobbin thread to. Too much bobbin tension can also cause the bobbin thread from not being drawn up into the material. kgg
  5. I don't know if you have a manual for your machine so I found a link to the consew 225 ( www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/225.pdf ) which maybe of some help. Also there is a repair manual that you can download from ( http://prod2.wikifab.org/cgi/viewcontent.php?article=consew.repair.manual&context=libpubs ) but you have to signup for an account. kgg
  6. It also may come down to the machine may not being able to handle V138 thread in what you are sewing because of needle to hook clearance. kgg
  7. I agree. I would: i) try a new spool of top thread and if you change the size of the top thread change the needle size according. ii) reload bobbin thread with fresh thread as if it has been wound for more then a couple of days it may have developed a "coil memory". This may or may not be a problem it will depend on a) color (black is the worst), size of spool it comes off (8 oz or 1lb spool), winding tension and whether it is a brand name thread (like A&E and others) or a poor quality clone thread from China. If you are using 8 oz spools of thread change to 1lb and use a brand name thread. The 8 oz spools, in my experience, are the worst for developing " coil memory " and " spring back " tension problems. The difference in quality and consistency of a brand name thread to that of the cheap China thread can be like the difference between night and day. Selecting good quality thread and needles are just as important as selecting a machine. Good machine with poor needles or thread will give you either problems or a poorer quality finished product. Yes the cost will be greater for a brand name thread but when you have to throw out thread because of poor quality / consistency what did you really save? Any chance of posting a photo of how you got your top thread setup? kgg
  8. Vehicles are for the most the dumbest purchase we tend to make. Most people I know usually only keep a vehicle for 4 to 5 years. I usually buy new and keep them up to date on servicing for their warranty period. Unlike my sewing machines which I am always oiling and checking, once a vehicle is off warranty I only do repairs, no preventative type maintenance, no oil changes etc. If it breaks, I repair it until the the body is gone. Usually I get 10 plus years. kgg
  9. The cost of a the Juki Lu-1510 is going to run about $6000 and the Consew 2206RB-14-7-DD is about $2100. My concern is what have they done to shave $4000. Unless you are going to really make use all the extra features they are just going to be a source for problems down the road and finding replacement parts maybe even more difficult. If you need the those extra features for what you are doing buy quality first, longevity second and resale value for when you want to replace it. That to me means buying a brand name (Juki, Alder). Buy Once, Cry Once. Before investing in any machine invest in a road trip to a dealer and test drive it using your stuff. kgg
  10. If you go the digital servo motor route get a get a good one. They are not all equal. The most important thing to remember is the more coils it has the better like the Reliable Sewquiet 6000sm 12 coil or the Sailrite 12 coil version. The main caution is if you plan on adding a speed reducer and a needle positioner to the mix make sure the digital servo motor you planning on purchasing will work properly with those items. Not all do when coupled with a speed reducer. Personally, l like to keep my setups as simple as possible, servo motor, belt, machine. The more electronic controls you add into the setup the more stuff can go wrong. My rule of thumb is if I need better speed control, I may think about adding a speed reducer but if I need the addition torque that a speed reducer will provide then I need a bigger/ better/ different class of sewing machine. Just my thoughts, kgg
  11. I agree the needle is inserted and threaded wrong. kgg
  12. I don't really think the Campbell Randall falls within the "doesn't take to much space" category of machines. It probably weights in at north of 150 lb. kgg
  13. This is a sad lost, my condolences to his family and friends. He will be missed. kgg
  14. That sound and that ever so light jiggle of the main pressor foot remains me of when I had to shim the lifter arm that connects the chain to the foot pedal out from the sewing machines body by about a 1.5 mm at the pivot bolt in my clone. kgg
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