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kgg

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About kgg

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    Leatherworker

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    Ontario, Canada

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  1. The Juki DNU-1541 is rated V138 top and bobbin and metric sized 180 needle or a #24 US needle. Depending what you are sewing it could take V207 top but you may find you would have to use V138 in the bobbin. I run V138 top and bobbin with no problems in both my Juki DNU-1541S and Juki DU-1181N. kgg
  2. I don't think you are going to find any used machines in the under $500 range capable of doing what you want. kgg
  3. Maybe glue a piece of rubber or something to the bottom of the pressor foot add to add a little grip??? kgg
  4. It is basically a straight drop in. All you have to do is adjust the needle bar up a small amount by loosening the screw at the top of the needle bar. Move the needle bar clamp up by the same amount as the difference in length the new 135x 16 are longer. If I remember it is just under 1/4" that you move the bar up. Note also the original needles have a flat side at the top of the needle where as the 135x16 have a completely round shank. So when you put it in make sure you line it up properly. I think you need more tension on your top thread to haul the bobbin thread further into the leather. Yes Adjust the downward pressure on your pressor foot. It is adjusted by loosening the nut on the funny bolt with the two springs attached that is closest to the head (seated in the frame). The other normal looking bolt is for adjusting the stitch length. If your pressor foot is leaving marks loosen the nut, if it is not moving the leather along tighten the nut in to haul the springs down. kgg
  5. The ones that come with the machine I think are HAx1 needles which can be purchased up to size 22. Size 22 needles are good for V138 max. This will depend on how thick and tough the leather is. If you change the needle to a standard industrial 135x16 you will get better needles and a better selection of sizes. Does that mean the long groove is on the left. Which would be correct. When you have the bobbin threaded properly in the hook assembly. 1. As you pull on the thread with the bobbin facing you it should rotate the bobbin counter clockwise. 2. Hold the end of the thread coming out of the assembly with one hand and with the whole threaded assembly rested in the pam of the other hand. Try and lift the assembly off your pam. If thread just pulls out freely and the assembly doesn't lift off your hand tighten the tension spring screw in by 1/8 of a turn. Try again until you can lift the assembly off your hand and suspend it. The thread should unwind from the bobbin slightly if you give it a gentle, gentle upward jerk. What you are going to find is these little machines can do a nice stitch but you are going to spend a lot of time tinkering with it to get to that stage. Once you figure what size of thread / needle size is best for your needs and setup, leave it. I think they are fun little machines and a great way to get started on a budget in the one arm bandit machines. Funny thing through is I still have mine but sold the Consew 223 cylinder (not heavy enough, small bobbin) and Pfaff 1245 (too finicky) is for sale. Best of luck, kgg
  6. A couple additional ideas. Do you have the long groove on the side the thread enters the needle? How full is your bobbin? I like to keep all my bobbins in the 80 percent range. I would step back and do a process of elimination. Check thread path, correct needle size (V207 size 23 /24 needle), needle installed all the way, positioned correctly and do the bobbin drop test to see if tension is correct for the thread size (to little and bobbin falls to floor , to tight the bobbin will not allow thread to come off bobbin). Try using some V69 thread on the top and bobbin just to see if it would pickup and lock the stitches properly. Then re-thread the top with V207 and see that works. If that works the problem is in the bobbin. There may not be enough head space in the bobbin area to clear V207 properly, incorrect tension in the bobbin tension spring, bobbin hook assembly incorrectly thread. Large threads need to be threaded through the holes farthest away from the hook and under the spring also the bobbin when you pull on the thread rotates counter clock wise. Personally I don't know how you got V207 thread through the eye of needle if it was the one that came with the machine. I would suggest about thinking of changing the size of the needle to a standard 135x16 needle, which is a simple process and needles are easy to find. kgg
  7. I looked at your video. I have a couple of comments. When you bring down the needle to pick up the bobbin thread you should have held the end of the top thread and pulled the bobbin thread up through the hole once the needle had cleared the bobbin cover before attempting to bring the needle back down again. Also what size of thread are you using? Is the thread matched to the correct needle size? kgg
  8. Maybe applying a bit of heat using a soldering iron or hair dryer may help to loosen the screws. Also maybe try a poor mans ratchet, vise grips on a screwdriver as close as possible to the screw head. While pushing straight down on the screwdriver with one hand and turn the vise grips with the other. Just a thought. kgg
  9. I would first check https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1155862/Juki-Du-1181.html?page=6#manual of the Juki Du1181n Engineers manual. kgg
  10. I do have a Juki DNU-1541S and am not quite sure what you are calling a "spring feed". A few photos of your spring feed and complete thread path would be very helpful in getting the problem sorted out. Also what size of thread and needle are you using. kgg
  11. It is a drop feed machine used for high speed sewing of fabric. In my opinion it wouldn't be suitable for sewing anything expect light weight fabric. kgg
  12. Thanks Constabulary, It is a nice trick to stop the fraying of the binding material and give that clean finish. If you want folded ends at both the beginning and ending of your binding run, where you have both ends of the binding run butted together rather then overlapped, you would fold the starting end of the binding in as well. kgg
  13. Exposed raw edges like that of the top edge on a tote should be either folded over and sewn or edged with binding / edging material to prevent fraying. All lot has to do with your design things like is the inside of the tote being lined or not lined. To do binding you have a choice of either using raw edge or double fold binders. Binders come in a lot of sizes based on what size of binding material you are planning on using, which can be either be purchased as raw edge or double folded in small lengths or larger flat coils. Small lengths can be fairly easily man handled but if you are planning on doing any amount you will need something to control the amount being spooled off and to support the coil. I would check with Cobra and see what they recommend as the changes needed to the throat to accommodate binding attachments. If I am doing small / large runs of binding I have my own attachments that allow me to use inexpensive flatbed folders/ binders on my cylinder machine which is a class 341 clone. That way I don't have to make mechanical changes to the machine to do binding and I am able to use the folders/ binders on all my machines.
  14. Simple way would be to determine the no load stitch length by 1. removing thread from needle and doing a foot long seam in a piece of ordinary paper. 2. count the number of stitches it punched in a 1 inch section at different locations in the seam. As sometimes stitch consistency can vary with worn parts. 3. without removing the piece of paper, do a reverse stitch or a inch or so at the end of the seam. The needle should go backwards into the same holes the forward stitch made. If not it maybe because of worn parts or being a bit out of adjustment. kgg
  15. Whatever the limitations are for the Singer 29k class of patchers the Chinese patcher is even more restricted. The fit and finish are typically poor at best. kgg
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