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kgg

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About kgg

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    Male
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    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    sewing machines in general, 3D printing

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    All aspects of sewing
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    net search on leather sewing machines

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  1. Simple things to check: Have you inserted and threaded the needle properly? The long groove should be on the left side and the needle needs to be fully up into the needle bar. As you get closer to the upper sewing limit if the needle isn't set to the 9 to 3 o'clock position it can miss picking up the bobbin thread. Also sometimes you need to reset the needle by twisting it a degree or two. I just had this happen with a portable walking foot after breaking a needle. I replaced the needle and on a test seam on a thin piece of cotton fabric it sewed perfectly. Once I started to sew the 0.53 mm poly binding to the item which was a combination of cotton, double batting and a rubber coated fabric it was sewing at it's max. Twisting the needle a degree or two solved the problem. Have you selected the right hole for the needle size in the bobbin cover? If the hole selected is too large and the material is woolly the material is probably is being force through. Try sewing the same flannel with a piece of thin paper on on bobbin side to keep the woolies from being forced in. kgg
  2. Since most of what you are making can easily be done on a flatbed I would suggest you purchase i) a brand name machine like a Juki DNU - 1541 S ( https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/juki-1541s.php ) ii) for your bags a cylinder bed machine which probably could handle your hat patches a Juki LS-1341. If I had to choose one machine to cover off what you listed I would look for a brand name class 341 cylinder bed machine with a flat top attachment. If you can afford one a new Juki LS-1341, if the cost is beyond your budget a clone. There are many clones in this class like the Cowboy CB341, Cobra Class 26, Kobe LS-1341, Techsew 2750. Another option of course would be a used machine. kgg
  3. I agree with Wiz and I also didn't know what you were planning on sewing. I would have suggested in a flatbed at least a Juki DNU-1541S or Juki DNU-1508N or clones and in a cylinder bed a Juki LS-1341 or clone with a flatbed attachment. Hope the 8700 does work for you. kgg
  4. The photo of the looks in really good shape and doesn't appear to have been used very much as by the wear on table frame, the foot pedal for the motor, table top, hand wheel or the body of the machine. Appears both machines have a needle positioner which can be set so the needle stops in either the up or down position. Since you are going to look at them take along a sample of the thickest material including any seams you are planning on using and do a test run on the machines and see which would work best for your needs. kgg
  5. The Juki DNU-1541 is a much more capable (rated thread size / sewing thickness) of a sewing machine that can handle much more under the pressor foot then the Juki DU-1181N so there is more or a greater chance of overloading the machine. The better choice between the Juki DNU-1541 and the DU-1181N would be the triple feed but that said my 1541 S hates thin stuff and that is where the 1181N excels in comparison. If you go an to look at the 1541 tilt the machine back and check the underside for items worn drive belt, bearings and build of lint. Amount of oil and color of oil in the small drive gear tank. Check for slop in the needle bar and check for thread wear tracks in the guides to help determine the amount of use. The table needs a bit of TLC but that is not a real big concern. There should be no unusual noises when the machine is running like knocking or banging. The main question is why are they selling the machine as it appears from the one only photo to be in an production environment??? kgg
  6. The Juki DNU-1541 is a good machine but purchasing a used machine is always a gamble. Do you have any pictures of the machine to show what condition it is in? If it is just the DNU1541 and not the Juki DNU-1541 "S" I would probably pass since that model does not have the safety clutch feature. I would also pass on the Typical also as it also does not have the safety clutch. This may not be a problem for you but the safety clutch can save your machine from a expensive repair should you jam the machine up. Depending on the items you are planning on sewing you may want to watch the two following video's to help you decide what type of machine would best suite your needs. The first video is of a triple feed Juki DNU-1541S with the safety clutch and the second is of a walking foot Juki DU-1181N without the safety clutch both with servo motors. The videos show how these machines handle light, medium and heavy fabric. 1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JES-2I7h3o&t=3s 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKJuKTrjsbw&t=313s If possible buy a brand name machine like a Juki rather then a clone machine. Buy Once, Cry Once. kgg
  7. Also what size of needle are you using as you will probably need a #24 or #25 needle depending on how thick the leather is. kgg
  8. Buy a brand name machine like a Juki. If possible either a good used one probably from a dealer or buy a new clone machine. A new clone would be more cost effective then buying a new Juki LS-1341. The Juki LS-1341 is their replacement to the older Juki LS-341. I would suggest a cylinder bed machine with a flat top table attachment. Used: Juki LS-341 or New: LS-341 clone There are a lot of clones in this class too choose from like Cowboy CB341, Cobra class26, Kobe LS-1341, Techsew 2750 to name a few. However if the Singer 18-3 is in good working order I wouldn't sell it. kgg
  9. The 135x 17 needles are in a nut shell made to separate the fibers of the fabric while a leather point is made to slice / cut through leather. I would suggest depending on how thick and tough the leather is using a #18 or #20 needle. For the price get some of each. A good link is Wawak.com : https://www.wawak.com/sewing/needles/industrial-machine/schmetz-leather-industrial-machine-needles-135x16-tri-dpx16-d-10pack/#sku=smnl135118 I early on converted to Schmetz and only use Schmetz needles in all my machine with excellent results. I replace my needles when they have about 8 hours of sewing time on them or when I find they are getting dull whichever comes first. kgg
  10. Some of the typical corrupts are: i) Needles. The correct system for the Juki LU-1508N is 135 x 17 for fabric and 135 x 16 for leather. Use a correctly inserted and sized needle for the thread size. You may have to go up a needle size or two when sewing thick or tough material so the loop of the top thread can be correctly formed and caught by the hook. Buy brand name needles like Schmetz. I have tried other brands was never never really satisfied with them. I early on converted to Schmetz and only use Schmetz needles in all my machine with excellent results. I replace my needles when they have about 8 hours of sewing time on them or when I find they are getting dull whichever comes first. A good chart for thread size vs needle size: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ii) Needle bar height. Maybe set a little too high or low so the needle doesn't catch the bobbin thread properly. iii) Bobbin area. May have a build up of old thread lint. iv) Thread. Poor quality thread particularly black noticeable on 8 oz spools. Buy good quality brand name thread What size of thread are you using? Any chance of posting a picture of how you have the machine threaded from the top of thread spool to the eye of the needle. There maybe something there? kgg
  11. The links to the machine or thread didn't work for me but when I tracked them back the machine is a clone of the old Singer 29K maybe a 29k- 70. When sites that cater to the domestic user say "upholstery or heavy duty" they usual are referring to V69 thread. The needle you are using 135 x 17 size 18/110 will work with V46 in thicker material or V69 thread in thinner / tougher material. The 1/4" thickness of your leather is near or at the top sewing limit capacity of the machine. The needles 135 x 17 needles are for sewing fabric and the one that came with the machine probably isn't the best quality. My suggestion would be to change the needle to a leather 135 X 16 needle and either a size 18 or 19 and a brand name like Schmetz needles for V69 thread that you are using. A good needle size to thread size chart would be: www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html kgg
  12. I think the trick / loophole is that those pelts are " Inuit branded ". I would contact your customs people for clarification or contact a broker. If you do manage to get some, I can tell you from experience items like hats / mittens / coats there is nothing warmer but can feel heavy. An example of a snowmobile mutt, note the bottom line " This item cannot be shipped to Europe or to the US. " : https://naturalboutique.ca/shop/ols/products/snowmobile-mitts-natural-seal kgg
  13. Yes. You have selected one of the best hides to make great mukluks and mittens but as you are in the USA you well not be able to import legally any seal products including pelts. I think since the early 1970's this ban has been in place. Check out the USA's Marine Mammal Protection Act. kgg
  14. Here is a good staring place to understand pulley reduction for single or multiple pulleys: www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng kgg
  15. I still would contact that company and as well as Vergez Blanchard. kgg
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