kgg

The Juki LU-1508 is a different series of machine with 7 variants then the Juki DNU-1541 series which has 3 variants. Both series look very similar but the main visual difference is the bed size and weight. Bed size : LU-1508 series bed is 517mm long versus the 1541 series being 477mm long Weight: LU-1508 series weights vary depending on the variant between 42.5 kg (~94 lbs) and 48kg(~106 lbs) while the DNU-1541 series eights depending on the variant between 36.5 kg (~79 lbs) to 42.5 (~94 lbs) kgg

I think the cylinder arm Juki Ls-1341 or a clone is probably as close to a "one trick pony" as you are going to get. Add a table attachment and you sort of got a flatbed machine. I turned my Kobe LS-1341 into a binding machine. I do a fair bit of binding. When it comes to binding you can use the expensive 90 degree style of binding attachments and they well allow for doing binding around tighter corners. For my situation as I had flatbed machines before I got a cylinder I wanted to be able to use the same binding attachments that I use on the Juki 1181N or the 1541S and use them on the LS-1341 clone or the TSC-441 clone. So to that end I designed up some attachments and printed them to allow for this. There is also quite a bit of difference cost wise between the standard inline and the 90 degree binding attachments, $100 versus $20 per tape size. If you are planning on visiting a vendor call them a couple of days before hand to set up a time and tell them what machines you are interested in so they can set one up for you to test drive. If they don't or can't set a machine up for you then they maybe they are just selling you an untested "fresh off the boat machine". If they are selling "fresh off the boat machines" you probably can get the same / similar machine with that same level of service from a lot of online vendors. Here is some photo's of older versions of what I came up for binding using standard inline binding attachments for my LS-1341 (first three photo's) and TSC-441 clones. kgg

Think of the "S" version as cheap insurance. The cost difference between the 1541 and the 1541"S" is about $100. The safety clutch when it kicks in protects a lot of internal parts from getting damaged. Depending on how badly you fool up usually it is just a matter of resetting the safety and you are sewing again. Without the safety clutch timing issues could be the least of your worries should a problem occur. As a side note my Juki DNU -1541"S" hates items less then 5mm thick and much prefers thicker items with V92 thread as a minimum top and bobbin thread size. Since you are doing bags have you considered looking at a Class 341/ 1341 machine like a Juki LS-1341 or clone coupled with a table top attachment? kgg

No, the length of the 16x231 needles is 33.9mm with a shank diameter of 1.63mm while the length of the 135 x 16 or the 135x17 is 38.9mm and the diameter of the shank is 2mm. This machine is not going to be able to sew gun holsters or belts. It probably will only be able to sew very thin leather. kgg

I personally only use Schmetz needles in any of my machines. I've never had any issues with that brand. kgg

Good needles, good thread, good bobbins and oil. In my opinion, the only validate reasons to use a different size of top thread then whats in the bobbin are: i) Top side thread appearance. Doing this results in the strength of the seam being reduced to that of the smaller sized thread in the bobbin. ii) Using a thread that exceeds the max thread rating of the machine. If you have to use a smaller thread in the bobbin because of bobbin head space clearances you are using the wrong class of machine to do the work. No. Yes, you will get more of the smaller size thread on the bobbin but the amount difference is going to be small. Remember these machines are heavy and have a tendency of tipping the nose forward. The head alone is going to be about 120 lbs so getting it placed on the stand and bolts in place really needs at least two people and make sure the wheels are locked / blocked so the stand doesn't move away from you. kgg

Yes changing the motor from a clutch motor, which I'm assuming yours has from the comment "goes like spit", to a servo motor is easy. Basically you unbolt the old motor from the table and almost always it is a straight install of the new motor using the same bolts. The problem is the weight of the those old clutch motors. I would suggest removing the sewing machine from the table and turn the table upside down then unbolt and remove the old motor. Your back will thank you. The cost of a decent servo motor will be about $150 to $250 CAD and a 550 watt should be plenty for your machine. kgg

Simple answer is No. The patchers were never meant to sew with such heavy thread. If you want to use V277 or V346 thread you are looking at a Class 441 motor driven machine similar to the Cowboy 4500 or Cobra Class 4 or a a one armed bandit like Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss, Weaver Cub. kgg

I think that is a wise decision. I think going with a Juki would be probably a good choice particularly since access to accessories and replacement parts is easy and are priced reasonably. kgg

Some of the rebadged machines actually had the original manufacturers identification in the bottom of the casing. I don't know of any rebadged machines out their today but I haven't looked. Most clones are made in China or Taiwan these days. Even with the Juki machines not all models are made in Japan as I have a Juki DNU-1541S made in Japan and my Juki DU 1181N is made in China. As far as I'm concerned here is a difference in quality. The Juki DNU-1541S, Juki LS-1341 and the Juki TSC-441 are still made for now in Japan. Also some models are made in Vietnam. Seiko's are also is still made in Japan. I do know that all clones are not created equal. The casings maybe a bit rougher some made with Chineseism metal but the problem is some don't use the original style of bobbin mechanisms and the quality of other internal parts can be less then. A couple years back a member was having problems with his 1541 clone bobbin and bobbin case mechanism and when we compared his photo's to my Juki Dnu-1541S they were completely different. Just like the parts in the Sailrite portable walking foot sewing machines are generally less then hence the price difference between the Sailrite at $1500 CAD and the clones at $600 CAD. They have to cut corners somewhere. Dealers bad mouthing other dealers machines is like the pot calling the kettle black. I would ask an independent repair person as to what he generally sees as problem machines. The only advice I can really give about the clones is deal with a dealer brand name or clone that you think can supply the best after market service. kgg

@toxo Looks to be in good shape, price seems in line with what a good used one would cost at about 45 percent that of a new one on this side of the pond. However I would probably checkout some of the clone dealers like Tysew, Typical or Highlead you never know what they may have. kgg

I think if you can afford a new Juki LS-1341 you will be pleased however if you need the smaller gauge nose then you would need to go to the LS-1342 which would also give you the additional vertical stroke adjustment for going over thick seams. Here is a link to the Juki LS- 1340 series so you can compare the models in that series. ( https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/admin/pdata/filedata/332/ls1340.pdf ) Then there are the clones which are less costly. kgg

This a Seiko design. They were market in North America by Consew as the 206RB and the Singer 531 same machine just a different badges. kgg

Juki machines overall are excellent often copied but the quality like everything else comes at a price. The price difference can be substantial, an example would be a Juki TSC-441 will set you back about 10 K CAD versus a clone costing about $4000 CAD. On the used market the Juki's are easier to sell and will command a higher price then a similar clone in similar condition. Parts and accessories generally are easier to find at reasonable prices. kgg

This what I think I know of your Singer 531B-8BL probably built around mid 1990's were rebadged Seiko's STH 8BL and sold by Consew as 206 RB, Singer 531-8bl and possibly Chikon CK-8BL( http://www.chikon.com.tw/ck-8bl.htm ). The front head assembly (needle area) look awfully close to that of a Juki LU-563 but different reverse / forward stitching mechanisms to my mind. There is a couple of manuals which may help. kgg Consew_206RB_Operating_Instructions.pdf SINGER_5318BL.pdf