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kgg

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About kgg

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    sewing machines in general, 3D printing

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    All aspects of sewing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    net search on leather sewing machines

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  1. Have considered using Velcro rather then the snap??? kgg
  2. My limited experience is using a spray gun for dying. First we dyed allowing it to penetrate into the leather then oiling. Once you get it to the shade you want let it dry and then oil. Oiling first I think would only provide another barrier to the dye. Just my experience, kgg
  3. I can see a die cutter would be faster but like @AlZillaI also don't see how that will eliminated the stretch problem. Have you tried a slightly larger hole for the ring snaps and using a lever press???? What are the items going to be used??? kgg
  4. I know what you mean when we moved from Newfoundland and at time we were rural we had fiber cable. Then we moved to Ontario to another rural area and it was like we were back in the dark ages even cell phones on the property were a hit and miss. We finally went point to point with our own dedicated connection where we do not share our bandwidth with anyone else but had to install a 100' tower. That was a chuckle and a half. kgg
  5. That is get news. Before you sew anything oil the hell out of it just in case there are any filings / dirt inside. Was the delivered cost what you expected or were there any additional surprise costs like brokerage/duties/etc. kgg
  6. I think you main problem is the type of binder you are using. The ones you show are all wide mouthed binders made for sewing edging onto thick material. As @nylonRigging has said getting the correct binder is a must and setup can be a pain sometimes. You need the item to fit through the binders mouth along with the binding tape and the tape to be fairly snugly wrap around the item to prevent slop / wander and provide better tracking. Finding a 90 degree binder with a smaller throat opening maybe difficult as this depends on what you are binding. I do have the 90 degree binders but I never use them. I prefer the inline style for a couple of reasons. I can use the same binders on any of my machines flatbed or cylinder bed, cost, more readily accessible option like raw edge or double fold and I can easily bend the mouth open or close as needed. I also find the guiding the items edge through the binder easier as the inside edge of the binders body gives me a guide edge to follow. However the 90 degree binders do allow you to get tighter bends then the inline style. Maybe try modifying something like this as they only cost about $15. kgg
  7. Like @dikman has suggested I would suggest you look at Class 341 machines for cylinder arms: New: Class 341 clone machines ----- Cowboy CB341, Techsew 2750, Kobe LS-1341 Used: Juki LS-341, Juki LS-1341 or clones kgg
  8. The Cobra 26 I think is sort of a clone of the Juki LS-1341 but with a Alder hook/ bobbin assembly. The 335 based machines are less capable then either the Cobra 26 or the Consew 227R. kgg
  9. Starlink internet maybe a option?? kgg
  10. You are a little off as .8mm thread is a touch smaller then V554 thread. The size of needle you would need for V554 is a #30 and drilling out the eye of the needle probably could be done with the proper equipment but you run the chance of weakening the needle. Other considerations even if you could find the proper needle for 1.1 mm thread could the one armed bandit's needle bar accommodate the needle or provide enough punching power to drive the needle through what you are trying to sew as well as there would there be enough head space between the needle and hook? Just a couple of thoughts. kgg
  11. You are going to find two main options for binders. Your standard inline which are mainly use on flatbeds and the 90 degree binders mostly used with cylinder bed machines. Depending on the width of the bias binding tape you shouldn't have much problem finding an off the shelf binder that will accommodate the Sisal and the binding tape. kgg
  12. How thick is the Sisal???? kgg
  13. @Stratton @Double Daddy A swing away clicker press versus a the hydraulic shop press conversion: Swing Away Clicker Press 1) Can provide a single downward stroke to allow the die to cut 2) Head swings out of the way to allow access to the clicker die and HDPE bed 3) Weight wise they range from 100 to 450 lbs 4) Can typically cost upwards to $3300 USD 5) Single Function of cutting or embossing Hydraulic Shop Press Conversion 1) Weight wise they range from 100 -170 lbs 2) Typical cost for a basic conversion including the cost of the shop press would be about $500 USD for 12 ton capacity 3) Multi functional Note the top presser plate on a Hydraulic Shop Press can be also have the swing away feature similar to the Swing Away Clicker Presses with the proper adapter. For those who want a very basic clicker press on a budget I would suggest: Considering a hydraulic shop / press setup. Using US sites the cost could be very reasonable and provide more tonnage then the typical manual clicker presses. i) Hydraulic shop press floor model ---- $170 @ Harbor Freight or a benchtop model @ $234 from Amazon.com ( Torin ATY12001B Steel H-Shape ) ii) HDPE 1" X 12" X 12" ------- $25 @ US plastic iii) 2 -Steel Plate 1/2" X 12" X 12" ----- $242 @ Speedy Metals Total ------------------------------------------------ $437 floor style or $501 benchtop style Just my thoughts, kgg
  14. Thank you for sharing. Nice and compact. kgg
  15. The main limiting factor as I see it is the thickness of the rug and whether it is sisal or jute. My understanding is sisal is rougher. Another factor is getting a bias tape binder with the correct mouth opening so you can feed both the tape and rug through too the needle. You will probably need to people to sew the rug as well setting up another table alongside the machines table to keep the rug flat as it being sewn. I think the max sewing thickness of the machine is 3/8" (9.5mm). kgg
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