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kgg

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About kgg

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    Ontario, Canada
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    sewing machines in general, 3D printing

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  1. With the size you specified you basically have two choices, dedicated hydraulic clicker press or converting a shop / bearing press. The hydraulic clicker presses are expensive while the shop / bearing press conversion can be done for about $500 USD for a 20 ton including the price of the shop / bearing press. I went the shop / bearing press conversion route. Here is the formulas I used when deciding on what size tonnage I would need. Example of calculations: Formula for 10 oz leather with a 3 in square die = 12 inch running length of die F (pressing force needed) = S (shear strength of leather) (2900psi / 2) x L cutting (running) length of die X T (thickness) of leather in inches X Sf safety factor of 2 F = 1450 x 12 x 0.156 x 2 => 5428.8 pounds (pressing force) 5428.8 pounds = 2.42 Imperial tons or 2.7 US tons One of my die plates will be just under 10" x 10" which will require somewhere near 9048 pounds or 4.1 imperial or 4.5 US tons to punch through. @bruce johnson any chance of posting a couple of photo's of the weaver shop press conversion? kgg
  2. A couple of questions. i) What is the largest item you are planning on cutting a pattern for??? The running length of the cutting edge on the die will determine the tonnage you will need. ii) What is your budget??? kgg
  3. Thank you. I'm still working the kinks out of the clicker press section. My previous versions were either to heavy or overly complex / complicated. kgg
  4. I know of three ways of doing this. i) Whether the machine has a bobbin winder built into the front side of the machine (Juki 1541S) or a belt drive winder (Juki LS 1341) what I do is install a bobbin on the winder, engage the bobbin winder and use a second spool to feed the bobbin. The bobbin will become wound and trip went full. Rinse and repeat as needed. ii) There are a lot of external bobbin winders off places like Amazon cost $30 - $90. iii) Then there are the cone winders for making smaller cones from a spool which are a lot more costly ($500). kgg
  5. A 750 (1hp) watt servo will only draw about 6.25 amps under full load. If you have a 20 amp circuit available great but your standard 120 volt 15 amp household circuit that isn't loaded up or has other motor loads will work quite nicely. I would check the circuit you planning on using and see what is on it. These days it is more unusual to see 120 v 20 amp circuits unless it is for a particular load reason. kgg
  6. First off the head is going to weight in around 180 kg (400lb) and the table top has a large hole cut out of it so the table top needs to be real sturdy. I would make sure with whatever material you are going to use it is going to be able to take the load and you may wind up using additional metal support under the table top bolted or welded to the existing frame. If I'm not mistaken the original table top was 2" thick hardwood plywood with a laminated top glue to it. I would NOT use Butcher block as it will not be as strong as plywood, will have a higher tendency to wrap / crack but it will look pretty. The thickest plywood I have seen is 1 1/4" which is actually slightly smaller due to the sanding process. If you choose to use the standard easily available 3/4" plywood and glue them together make sure the grain of one is 90 degrees opposite to the other. I would suggest: i) additional angle iron metal bracing under the table top to help support the front and rear edge weight of the machine along the cutout section ii) use three pieces of 3/4" plywood glue together but that would depend on the type of plywood (softwood or hardwood) and iii) do some calculations on the strength of the type of plywood for the load to determine the type and size of plywood needed. Remember that plywood will warp / buckle / fail if not properly supported. Just my thoughts. kgg
  7. The last time I checked about a year or so ago they were still made in Japan but to be 100% you should phone or email Juki USA. My experience with my Juki 1181N which was made in China is NOT of the same quality as my Juki 1541S made in Japan. If the Juki LS-1341 are being made in China or Vietnam you would probably be just as well off buying a similar clone. kgg
  8. I purchased my Juki TSC441 clone from a Canadian, Ontario supplier for about 60 percent plus of the more popular names. This included a table which I modified for my needs and brushless servo motor. Kinda hard not to buy when you can save $1500 plus for a similar machine. As long as it is a Juki clone parts / manuals are easy to get should something go wrong but you will be on your own as far as support goes and may have to do some adjustments. On the flip side of the coin is where the brick and mortar dealers excel, support. kgg
  9. @PEU I looked at both video's and see you made mods to the last thread tensioner and added a thread guide to the needle bar. Adding the white guide on the needle bar has changed the angle that the thread enters the eye of the needle and by changing the thread guide just above the last tensioner it also changes the thread angle. Did you have this problem before you made changes?? kgg
  10. I would call one of the four Seiko dealers endorsed by Seiko on their website. They should be able to put you onto a Japanese made one. I don't think you are going to find one made in the USA. Most of the stuff is made in China or Taiwan. If you go with the Chinese or Taiwan versions just go to the websites like Aliexpress and buy direct for considerable savings. SUPERIOR SEWING MACHINE & SUPPLY LLC [MASTER PARTS DEALER] 48 West 25th Street, New York, NY 10010-2758 TEL: +1-212-691-3400 FAX: +1-212-807-8743 HOFFMAN BROTHERS [MACHINE] 1795 Birchwood Avenue, Des Plaines, IL 60018-3005 TEL: +1-847-671-1550 FAX: +1-847-671-1320 CIVIT PRODUCTS, INC. [MACHINE] 2 Maple Street, East Rutherford, NJ 07073 TEL: +1-201-896-9292 FAX: +1-201-896-8588 UNITED SEWING MACHINE SALES [MACHINE] 3230 Highland Ave. NE P.O.Box 3055 Hickory, NC 28603 TEL: +1-828-327-0115 FAX: +1-828-327-3468
  11. When I am looking for a machine for myself my rule of thumb for a used machine in excellent condition and depending on age is 65 to 75 percent the list price of a new machine. Hope that helps. kgg
  12. To get better help with your problem it would be helpful to know what machine you are using, thread size that you are using for the top and in bobbin, needle size also a couple photo's of the thread path from the spool. kgg
  13. I am using Windows 10 and just upgraded my motherboard / memory / hard drives about a month ago. To add to @Northmount in the Snipping Tool you can choose the file format when you select "Save As" under the "Save as type". It can take awhile to get use too it does have it's quirks just like all CAD programs. If you decide to give it a try in the future start by following along with a few youtube video's. As a side note the default file format that Fusion 360 uses is a .f3d as a default and I don't know of another program that uses this so save your work as a .step format. kgg
  14. I used Fusion 360 which is a CAD program for this sketch. I had that program opened away as I was refining a clicker press design. I then used Windows Snipping Tool and save the Snipping Tool file as a jpg. I'm also old school and do all my designs by pencil / pen and paper first then I move unto the computer. I bet most of the younger generation go right to the computer first. kgg
  15. Sorry about that. I'm not sure how that happened. Damn computers. My first thoughts based on you are sewing the same type of material and thickness of material previously sewn. i) The bonded nylon thread is a touch thicker and stiffer then the polyester. Did you re-adjust the bobbin tension when you changed to the bonded nylon??? ii) Recheck you top thread path. iii) Change the needle. iv) Check to make sure there is no link / thread under the bobbin case v) Insert a properly wound fresh bobbin that is loaded to about 80 percent capacity.
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