Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About thefallguy

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1,025 profile views
  1. Good job! I like the clean look of a simple and well made holster/gun belt. What kind of creaser did you use on those? The double lines look really nice.
  2. We only use backs (double bend and double shoulders) running lengthwise, which goes along with what you already read. You could also get away with double shoulders cut into straps running perpendicular to a double bend cut, but you have less length and usually more wrinkles to deal with. Our favorite belt leather supplier is Wickett and Craig. If you call them and tell them what you are building, they will be very helpful with suggestions for the best cut and type of leather for what you are making.
  3. I don't know if these guys will ship over here but would this help? https://www.shootandscoot.co.uk/shop/colt-38-police-rubber-prop/
  4. My understanding is the models that were upgraded with the larger spring assembly and thus the wider slide were serialized with the prefix "27A", and the subsequent design upgrades were prefixed with "27B". The Bluegun Store refers to the 11/16" version as a Pre 27A model which seems to support my assumption that the serial number is the best way to determine which model a customer has. I can't answer your question with absolute certainty, but so far this method hasn't steered us wrong.
  5. Found a couple pictures of one of our belts with a rawhide stiffener. This one was 7/8 cowhide top and liner with an elephant accent (we double stitched the rawhide on this one to match the accent instead of a single stitch row but you get the idea). In the close-up of the belt you can hopefully see the dome shape I was referring to before. The rawhide ends just before the accent starts. I wish I had taken better pictures of the inside of the belt but this is all I have right now. The next time I build one maybe I'll remember to get some better pictures...
  6. No, we used that one to finish the run of belts but it took two of us to do it; one to hold the handle and one to pull the strap. We haven't used it since, but we will keep it around in case we need to do another run until we save enough to buy a better splitter.
  7. The first think I thought was "I like the color" before I read the description. If it's repeatable that is a fortuitous discovery. I think your mag holder design would make a good multi-tool sheath as well. You could extend the loop strap over the top and snap it to the front and voila!
  8. We bought one of the ebay splitters you linked to to do a contract run of exotic belts. We busted the bearings twice before getting the machine turned down for a standard size bearing of better quality. I would recommend saving for a nicer machine if I were you.
  9. I can't get to any pictures right now but I will try to explain clearly how we make a 1 1/2" full exotic belt - We start with a 1 1/2" wide 7/8 oz. liner unless the order requires something else for whatever reason (horsehide or 8/9 cowhide, usually). We cut the liner to length (from just past the tip of where the billet end point will be to just inside the fold of the buckle end) and measure where the chicago screw and adjustment holes will be. Then we subtract 3/4" from that measurement and cut the 3/4" wide rawhide strip to that length and round the ends with a round strap end punch. Next we glue the rawhide in place with Lyons or Barge cement and run a single stitch row directly down the center of the rawhide, back stitching the ends and melting the thread ends against the inward side of the newly reinforced liner. For the top layer we cut a 2" strap out of 3/4 oz. cowhide (unless the exotic in question needs a heavier of lighter weight backing, depending on its thickness) and glue it to the exotic leather flesh side to flesh side. Now we will trim the buckle end to 1 1/2" wide and cut and punch the holes before stitching the buckle end so the stitches will overlap the liner by 3 or 4 stitches [once it is in place], melting the thread ends on the interior side of the belt. Next we will rough the top grain of the inside layer for a better bond with the cement (except for the area that we have already cut to width and sewn). Now it is time to glue the two layers together trying for a 1/4" overlap of the top layer off either side of the liner. Setting the glue with a small hammer down the middle and then along each edge brings out the domed shape of the belt, being sure to leave the liner side against work surface so the lined side of the belt stays flat. Now we trim the excess exotic material off either side using the liner as a guide, then cut the billet end and punch the holes. This results in a flat area to stitch around the edges of the belt that's around 1/4" wide without having to try to taper or skive any rawhide/leather. After that we sew the top to the liner and finish out the belt with our normal edge finishing processes and treatments. This is a time consuming and expensive method of building exotic belts, but it is by far the best exotic gun belt there is (in my opinion). If you [or anyone reading] decide to build an exotic gun belt with this method all I ask is that you give us credit (just PM me for that info). Did that answer your question or were you referring to a belt with an exotic inlay that uses the thickness of the rawhide to push the exotic flush with the top layer?
  10. To my knowledge there has never been a problem with cracking. None of our personal belts have shown any signs of it and we have had no customer complaints after years of use. When we started doing the rawhide reinforcement we originally used normal rawhide strips like people use for saddle horns but we had to soak and stretch them and try to true them up to look right in the belt and it was a major pain in the posterior. We ended up using elk because it was a consistent thickness and large enough to cut straight straps from. We were happy with how it turned out so we stuck with it.
  11. Buy yourself a used copy of Bianchi's "Blue Steel & Gunleather" on ebay. It will have the information you are looking for and the general subject matter will probably be of great interest to you as well.
  12. I personally want my belts to conform to my waist over time without sagging or rolling. Kydex or steel do a good job preventing sagging and rolling, but they won't alter their shape enough to conform to your body, so I don't prefer to use them as a liner if that's important to you. In the past, whenever someone has required an extra stiff belt that would still conform to their body, we have used a layer of 3/4" wide elk rawhide sewn with a single stitch line to a 7/8 oz. liner (either cowhide or a horsehide butt depending on availability) and topped with 6/7 oz. cowhide or an exotic skin backed with a 3/4 oz. layer. I stop the rawhide just short of the holes on either end of the belt. This has resulted in a belt stiff enough to hold out straight without folding over under it's own weight, but it still conforms to your body shape within a couple of months of daily wear. As an added bonus the belt has a domed appearance similar to a skived dress belt. For belts we run 277 on top and 207 in the bobbin (346 just stood out too much unless you want to run a stitch groover which I tend not to do). We always use Wickett and Craig backs for our belts (besides the rare horsehide liner), but I seem to remember the premium double shoulders from Zack White being very stiff when I was experimenting with them so I suspect they would make a good belt as well. I have access to a lot of nylon webbing, but I have never gotten around to trying particle's method of reinforcement. I think it would probably allow the belt to conform somewhat as well. If taking the shape of your body isn't important to you/your customer, I don't have any advice you haven't already considered.
  13. Nylon probably has a little more stretch than polyester, but I doubt if anyone could tell the difference between them. I would consider waxed thread made for hand stitching if I were you. As a separate note, If you burn your thread ends when you tie them off, I would avoid polyester. This is an extreme example, but burning polyester shut down my dad's liver and nearly killed him before we figured what was going on. Long story short, a mislabeled roll of polyester webbing with no spec sheet cost thousands of dollars and [probably] years of my dad's life. We still use nylon almost daily, but polyester is a no go for us after that experience.
  14. Message and email sent regarding a few dummy guns.
  15. http://item4ever.com/bonded-277-t270-nylon-sewing-thread-for-upholstery-leather-canvas-outdoor-seats/ Better late than never...
  • Create New...