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About katit

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  1. katit

    Needle positioner acting up

    Ok! It works now. I think belt might be a culprit. Also, not in my manual but with trial/error I figured that for this motor light need to be on when needle is down. What I have now: When needle "dn" - it goes down when I let off pedal. Heel down - needle goes up. This is perfect sewing setup. When needle "up" in options - it goes up when let off pedal. And nothing happens when heel down. Looks like problem solved and looks like it's crucial to have good belt/tension.
  2. katit

    Needle positioner acting up

    Thanks! I can return motor, but I will give it another try. I think I know why it _might_ act. I don't think belt is very tight and probably it "skips" a little. Maybe machine "inertia" caused it to move too far or something like this. I will get belt tighter and report back..
  3. Very cool! Definitely update on finished pictures. I really like what they do at this place and seem to be priced well.
  4. katit

    Needle positioner acting up

    Instructions attached, however it works but not reliably
  5. katit

    Needle positioner acting up

    Do you mean instructions or picture of display? I did not change any settings other than rpms. and yes, no reducer
  6. Need help with needle positioner. I got motor pictures. Yes, it's cheap motor. No reducing pulley installed. How should it work? I see red light, it "works" somewhat. But it's not always leaves needle at a bottom when I let off. It would work and it would raise needle on back pedal. But it would randomly not do it and stop machine in random places. I see no pattern on what happens. Using switch to "up" or "dn" doesn't do much other then preventing motor from doing anything. Power-cycle and it seems to start working but then it stops again.
  7. Your reducer looks approximately ~ 1:6. To do same with 2 pulleys (top and bottom) you roughly need: a. Bottom pulley 75 -> 45mm so it's about .8 reduction b. In order to achieve same reduction as you have with a box you need to reduce by additional x5.2 on top. So, it means from about 6in pulley to 30in in diameter. This is what would it take to achieve same reduction/torque which is not possible because you don't have 15 inches from top shaft to your table.
  8. katit

    Time capsule 206RB

    Browsing various online stores, eBay, etc. I didn't find any cross-references. I think they put 3/8 thickness for 206RB and 11mm for PFAFF (which is slightly bigger). Just by holding them they look almost identical. Also, 206RB bobbins always have holes (or it's very common). PFAFF bobbins almost always solid.
  9. katit

    Used cambell randel stitcher?

    On iPhone emailing pics with "Medium" size works best for this forum. This is very annoying though. And sometimes you want to post larger image with more details, size "Large" works but only 1 or 2 pics can be attached.
  10. katit

    Time capsule 206RB

    1. Cleaned with compressed air. There was only dust, no crud.. 2. Replaced lube in gearboxes with synthetic grease on top and bottom. 3. Oiled everything throughout, soaked it literally. I have pan, so it's no big deal. All wicks were dry. Took needle plate off, started to see what is hitting. Hook was hitting needle. Ok, took out needle and it was wrong needle! Seller said needle were broken, so maybe it was an attempt to "fix" broken needle. I can tell because tiny bolt which holds thread guard on needle bar was missing.. Anyway, after inserting new titanium needle all started to look normal, at least to my eye. I did not go through any adjustments, it just looked like hook arriving to needle just right. So I threaded it and it just works!!! Question. Bobbins I just received for 206RB (with holes) look pretty much identical as my PFAFF 1245 bobbins. Are they the same by chance? And Now I really have hard time deciding if PFAFF is better. To me they both very smooth but this Consew is like brand new.. And I kind of like side load bobbin, it is first time I work with it and it was really easy to load bobbin. Should I still hold onto 2 threads when starting? I've seen some videos when guys use 206rb without paying any attention where thread is...
  11. I think adjustment can be made from a top, see picture. But no "user" adjustment. It should be (by manual) on a pulley but it's not. Needle system on sticker also doesn't match what's in a book. I will remove needle and see if it's 135x17 as I got those. Would be nice if it's in fact 135x17. I want to make seams like on a picture. 3D for car upholstery. Those are decorative without any tape usually. And need to be less than 3/8..
  12. Picked up machine. Well, it's not exactly as in manual, guess this is where "SV" is? First of all sticker says 135x17-20 needle, so it's "regular" one.. Stitch size adjustment not on pulley as in manual. Also see custom needle plate customization - like a ramp brazed on. And a walking (vibrating feet) look unusual. And it's 1/2 gauge Too much for me, will be looking for 3/8 or smaller one. And it's VERY VERY heavy...
  13. Reason is that they do lot more reduction in compact package. Yes, it doesn't seem so because "box and pulleys" but it's under table out of sight. To achieve the same reduction very big pulley needed and convenience for operator reduced (turning large wheel by hand) It's easy math to calculate reduction, but box used for compactness, nothing else. Also, keep in mind, those reducers were sold long ago(?) along with clutch motors. Today I don't think you need to buy expensive reducer box, I'd rather spend money on good servo motor. How slow do you need to go? Motor I got from @Gregg From Keystone Sewing starts very slow and I can do 1 stitch with light tap on pedal (with needle positioner)
  14. There is no difference if you can achieve needed ratio using smaller pulley at motor and larger on machine.
  15. I got my answer. 103 is definitely heavy duty and not what I need. Judging by needle size 102 is just perfect for upholstery. Need to figure out where to get 126x10 needles..