katit

Gregg, This is not PFAFF. Machine I will be looking at looks exactly as Singer 168w101 but it's got 2 needle. It's a post bed machine. Hopefully this one is not hard to find? As far as mechanicals - I think I will be fine. I did change time belt and completely retimed Consew 226R so I understand basics of those things.

Yes, 3/8 or 10mm sounds about right. I have 5mm guide feet and accomplish french seams with those which very close to what's needed. I think depending on car it might be little smaller. In any case - I will try to get machine if it all works otherwise. Main point - gauge sets can be found/obtained if needed. Thanks you all!

The way you guys explain it - makes total sense and I'm not scared of changing gauge set at all. I just did complete overhaul of similar single needle walking foot machine along with setting timing, hook, etc. So I get it. Most likely I will need only one gauge for what I want to do (car upholstery) Machine I will be looking at looks exactly as Singer 168w101 but it's got 2 needle. It's a post bed machine. My main problem/fear is that I won't be able to buy/find gauge set needed. I looked at machine very briefly, didn't recognize model # but it did look like 1/2 inch between needles which is little too much for what I need. So, if you know what that machine is and if it's using same gauge sets as any other similar Singer's...

I see. So, if I do want to experiment and get my hands on one of those - unless "gauge" is what I need - it's probably useless machine, correct?

My question is about distance between needles. I assume it's fixed. I read in topic nearby about some machine with 14mm between needles. Out of curiosity I pulled PFAFF 1246 web page but the number is not anywhere. Not in manual. Now on web page. Is it possible it's adjustable? So, what IS the standard distance for let's say automotive upholstery? And is it easy to change it on let's say Singer 111 variants of twin-needle machine?

Actually you can kind of see this pin sticking on back. And there is a hole in front (red arroows) And no, this is not original paint. I strip layers now and I see this greenish paint under this pale grenn/yellow.

See picture attached of the area where you have "hook". Doesn't look like anything missing. I guess different construction? "small pin" I'm talking about is about 1/2 tall 1/8 pin sticking out right behind bolt on top. Don't have it pictures. If that bolt is for lamp - maybe that pin is a guide pin for specialized lamp/accessory. That would be my explanation.

Placed an order with Campbell-Randall on broken part. 3 weeks wait, not that bad. Right belt cover is not available, so will go without. So I got 3 weeks to get everything else ready/painted/prepped.

Yes, machines look identical with very slight differences. Obviously labels differ. I like yours better I am awaiting response from Campbell Randall. Seems like "Manufacturers Supply" was like a franchise? Same font, same 2 words. But our skivers say "Saint Louis" and manual you attached above says "Campbell Randall" So, left cover is a good thing. I got this diamong thingy, wasn't sure what it's for. So it's a keeper. I will not have separate table. I'm going to reuse my sewing machine table and just make adapter so I can "insert" skiver into the same opening and use sewing machine motor. I do have guide rod and knob. They are just rusted and you can't really see on a picture. It's in Pile #2 on picture attached. So, #1 is cleaned in kerosene and sprayed with WD40 (lesson learned, for some reason metal rusts very good after kerosene dries out). Those are all moving parts, all will be cleaned and lubed before assembly. #2 is pile of bolts and small rusted parts which I'm going to nickel plate #3 is bigger parts which will be sanded/acid cleaned and spray painted along with main casings. Also, on your picture I quited - there is black "hook" showing. I don't have it. I have small knob which pulls on rod with spring. I guess it's the same part but looks different. And question. What IS that bolt on very top of machine? It's right where top cas arm bends and it's got thick washer. I got regular bolt and you got allen head bolt. Seems to be just a bold going into case iron. There is also small pin sticking out behind. Do you know what is the purpose of it?

Watch this excellent video at 3:12

I read somewhere that foot lift adjustment is one of those things like thread tension. It may need to be adjusted on a fly for material you are sewing, it's not one time set and forget deal. So, having a gap might be OK if you deal with thick material all the time.

Thanks! I also reached out to part supplier on this, they say it may have to be special ordered, and they will be letting me know today when/how much. Ordered 10ft of 3L belting. Will see how strong it holds. Maybe it will work for sewing machines as well?

@Nuttish Thanks a lot for detailed response! Interesting to know more history. If you look at badge on mine it says "made in Western Germany". And yes, all parts in machine stamped with Z. And it's "St Louis" company. I guess many different companies branded those machines? Will try calling them and see if they got parts needed. I would say it was exposed to weather/humidity. No direct rain or anything like that. Everything inside is OK, only top surface suffered. I am replacing all ball bearings except for knife shaft. Those needle bearings and thrust bearings were all embedded in "baked" grease. After soaking in kerosene everything cleaned up nicely and looks great. Thats interesting. I probably can do better job with a brush and closed eyes What size urethane did you use? I see they make tapered ones as well, maybe it will be better? I did have infinite belt it measured 97cm. I got green replacement from eBay - 95cm. I think 95cm is a correct size because belt that I had on was slightly loose and out of tensioner adjustment movement. Thanks a lot for manual! Very helpful. Question: Do you know what is this cover on a left for? I see most skivers sold today don't have it. I wonder what it does and what this black knob on left does.

Do you have this part? It's also displayed in previous post. My bad it's threaded and I tried to press it out, damaged one pin and bent it. If not - I will repair and make another pin. This is not critical part.. Ordered all new bearings. Some bearings which not easy to remove will be reused. But those are standard/cheap to replace. Pretty much all grease became "plasticky goo". Machine finally apart, getting ready to clean/restore. I will try nickel plating on all small parts, will see how it goes.

Yes, they all look the same. Only question is quality. Look at this Taking machine pictures. Picture #4 you can clearly see bearing carrier mount crooked(on left side). You can see it on picture!

Oh yes, that machine got it's own separate topic: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84357-seiko-stw-8b-aka-consew-226r-refurbishadjust/?page=2 Everything sorted out and works great! I just posted in this topic because this is where I asked about positioner. I put PFAFF with new motor on my newly restored table..

All I can say is wow! Thanks Gregg for great motor and assistance! I got controller set to lowest startup speed. I got positioner setup. Now it’s just too easy. Can go as slow as I want and with gentle tap it makes one perfect stitch. 6 layers of auto leather - no problem, plenty of torque. Finished - just heel back and needle goes up. Wonder why do I need handwheel now And because I don’t have to mess with handwheel - my locking stitches now perfect. Now I need to figure out how to make stitch longer/shorter when needed

It's been 2 month but finally I'm done. Table completed. Leg's sandblasted, primed and painted black. New hardware. Top finished with stain/poly. New thread stand. Home-made aluminum pan. No through holes. I love end result. Time to sew something New sp-1100-NPFL motor. Last thing left is to figure out how to mount needle positioner. Any suggestions? Motor controller supports 24V for knee lift. Correct part was little too much for what I wanted to spend, so I figured how much power I need (about 150nm pull), will see if I can come up with some cheap solenoid.

Now that I took one apart http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84732-skiver-restoration-project-and-questions/ I think they are all the same with maybe cosmetic differences. One big difference I know about is feed. Some machines spin knife and feed at the same time, I guess this is least preferred way. Speed of feed vs knife can be adjusted by moving belt. Also from what I understand setup on table is easier for machine like mine. I can just set it on top of sewing machine table with one belt. Other than that - knives, grinder wheels, pressure feets and feed rollers interchangeable between all of them(or most? Just look at parts online). They all look very similar so I assume they all adjust infinitely (position of feed and knive) My take on it - it's really hard to mess up with manufacturing and it's probably safe to just order one overseas. That IF you know how to setup/adjust. Otherwise - advice above is totally legit - get somewhere where they can setup/adjust/support. Old iron and having original/made in Germany gives a good feeling (I guess), but as far as functionality I doubt there is any difference.

Spent little more time. Removing main shaft was tricky, but now I know how it's done. I'm glad I'm doing it - all bearings inside (needle and ball) in good shape but greaze became more like dry wax. Definitely need cleaning/repacking. Separating pulley from shaft is a last piece to take apart, will have to make some kind of puller. Simple "knocking out" tecnique does not work.

I might be interested. Need couple random bolts. Will post pictures later. May take feed wheels and presser feets depending on price of course. I am in USA shipping might be expensive though Also your skiver looks quite different not sure how many parts can be reused

I already ordered 95cm belt for the stone. It should be 1mm thick, didn’t see it yet. the only parts I need is belt cover and small belt for feed roller do you have right cover? I think your machine looks slightly different

Yep, this is the video where guy says you can’t setup forward/ reverse to be equal in all stitch lengths. Which is not correct.

Got couple more pieces to take apart, had to order special tools (spanner wrenches) which I didn't have. Decided to go ahead and give it new bearings/seals as well. Project becomes complete ovehaul, but I got time since I'm waiting on few parts from China anyway. Final decision made to repaint big parts and nickel plate all the visible parts(knobs, pulleys, bolts). Everything inside (bolts, springs, etc) was covered in dirt/grease and survived rust, can be left alone. Few parts like knife, belts, bearings, seal will be new. Gearbox bushings and gears look good.

Well. It's either going to be assembled back or not Good stuff: I found missing spring part on aliexpress. I also found this thin belt and additional pressure feet. And new cutter. Bad stuff: I miss 3 screws on machine and belt cover. None of this is critical but I will make those bolts so it's all complete. After reading all archives I found info that if main shaft with bell knife bent - it's not going to be good. Checked and it's within 1thou. Not bad. Can't figure out how to take main pulley off. I took left-threaded bolt out but it seems that other piece pressed in. Still need to figure out how to take it off. Machine was green and some point, then it was spray painted over with gray-ish paint which preserved some of the knurled bolts. So, it's pretty much clean/sand/paint on case parts. Not so on all the misc hardware. Bolts, knurled handles, etc. I'm wondering if that a time to experiment with nickel plating I LOVE how simple those machines built and yet how many parts/labor/design went into them. No wonder they still make them. Can't come up with anything better?