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DanishMan

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About DanishMan

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    Copenhagen

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    about leather machines
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  1. When I started working with skiving machines, I sometimes used leather straps. Now I use a 6 mm polyethylene belt. Much easier - you can weld the strap together, once fitted and it does not get longer with use - as is the case with a leather strap. Brgds Danishman
  2. It is actually a Durkopp 1767 - my mistake.
  3. Hi Volker But when the hand wheel gets stuck she can just touch the foot pedal, and the machine sews. Probably something in the hand wheel. Cheers Danishman
  4. Dear Forum A friend of mine has a Durkopp 176 sewing machine. A machine I know nothing about. Se has a problem with the hand wheel. The machine works perfectly well, using the foot pedal, but when turning the hand wheel manually, she can rotate it just a few centimeters before it gets stuck. Any idea og what the problem might be? We do not live in the same city, and I have not had a chance to check the machine for real. Brgds Danishman
  5. Thank you Glenn I will try to contact him. Cheers Soren
  6. Dear Friends I have a question about how to adjust a Quick Rotan motor. It is not for a leather machine, but for a Union Special 34700. However the Quick Rotan is also used on many leather sewing machines. When I got it, the thread trimmer and foot lift did not function (powered by a magneto). After replacing the carbon brushes, the foot lift magneto is back to life. However, the sequencing is off: When pushing the threadle, the presser foot goes down, and the machine starts to sew. When releasing the threadle, the needles stop in down posistion, but the presser foot goes up. When healing, the threadle, the needles go up, the presser foot goes down, and the trimmer activates. Then the presser foot goes up again. Anyone here, that have experienced a similar problem - or anyone that has a Quick Rotan instruction manual covering adjustment og the magnetos? Kind regards Danishman
  7. I made this video two years ago. At that time I used bottom dead center as reference for the feed dog not moving. Now I changed it to 1 mm up again. Regarding the piping feet. Are they original?
  8. Hi Thomas The mismatch between forward and reverse stich length is most likely due to the lower transport not set correctly. Set the stich length to zero Rotate the hand wheel in the normal sewing direction and take the needle to bottom dead center (all the way down). Now continue rotating the handwheel and raise the needle slightly less than one millimeter. When moving the stitch length lever up and down, the feed dog should not move (or just very little). If is does move, adjust the eccentric on the main shaft (close to the handwheen). If this does not solve the problem entirely, you can play a bit with the eccentric. Regarding the two additional questions, I am not sure about the size of the screws going into the metal cover.. May be it is easier to find new screws than a different cover. I am not sure, what you mean with the second question. Could you possible take a few photos? Brgds Danishman
  9. Hi Amando It is pretty much a Fortuna 801 clone. If you find the manual for a Sunstar skiving machine, it should work. I would only paint it, if it is really ugly. On the other hand, if it is a project, why not. I have painted a few skiving machines. Rather than grinding it all the way down, I have used filler and sanded them. The original paint is much stronger, than what I can achieve. Therefor I find this to be a better solution. Brgds Danishman
  10. Dear Friends I am restoring three Fortuna skiving machines.. One is completely missing the vaste bag (Staubsack) assembly. Anyone here, that has this for sale (complete). Brgds DanishMan
  11. Hi John I have painted a PFAFF 335 and four skiving machines. It is not easy................................................................... The 335 and the first two skiving machines were grinded down completely - then primed before using hammerite paint. The result was okay, but the paint is not as strong as the old paint. On the two last skiving machines, I did not remove the original paint. Instead I used putty filling and then sanded the machine, before painting. I did find the result to be better, and the paint is stronger. I have taken several PFAFF 145s apart. It is fairly simple. It can be a major challenge to remove the main shaft. Be very observant of any burrs a the hand wheel. You have to remove any burrs - otherwise, it can be almost impossible to take the shaft through the machine. Also you have to be carefull, when removing the pick up lever - It can only be removed from one position. Kind regards DanishMan
  12. Probably better to take it the other way. And fit the new one, while removing the old one. Cheers
  13. The 145/545 only has one screw to adjust the bobbin case opener. The 1245 has two, but the principle is the same. This is from the 245/1245 service manual.
  14. I guess you have to adjust the bobbin case opener.
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