SilverForgeStudio

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    117
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About SilverForgeStudio

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    www.silverforgestudio.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hampton Roads, VA
  • Interests
    Metals and metal working

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    none- Im a total noob
  • Interested in learning about
    bags/wallets, holster and sheaths, hand and machine sewing, tooling
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    FLASAH yahoo group and Opel Mok

Recent Profile Visitors

459 profile views
  1. SilverForgeStudio

    Working with snake skin

    @Chief Filipino ... He should weigh in on this one too- he tans his own rattlers as well- last I heard he was contemplating a Hawaii trip... As for the taste- I'll agree with chuck123wapiti above- tastes great.
  2. SilverForgeStudio

    How did you get into leather work?

    Bravo Roland! From the middle side of the age spectrum- at 47 with 10 plus years of marriage under our belts my wife and I still don't have a TV either! My daughter loves tinkering and playing while her cousins all hunker down on the couch with their iPads and Devices. Its kind of a sad narrative really. Get the degree and never stop crafting! The down time at my job allows me to do a few things- as a career paramedic (like the other fire guys here) radio straps and harness items are a big seller... and crafted items for the wives and nurses... almost a fulltime-pastime! HA! I will let you in on a little secret that you probably already know... If you examine successful folks most of their "Hobbies" are either budget neutral (They take in as much as they cost) or they contribute to your growth financially either by direct income (selling to others) or by saving your money (you can make it for less than retail). I have no hobbies that cost me outside of setup/start expenses. They all have to be self funding and driving. Keeps the family budget on track too! (And honestly- it ROCKS to be able to use side income to take the family somewhere!) Others have different paths- this is only my path- and it works for my family. All the usual caveats apply: Your mileage may vary, some assembly required, batteries not included, only for ages 3 and up, yadda yadda yadda, call your mother... (you get the idea- this is just ONE way to think about it). For example- The Warden... My wife completely freaked when I spent a LOT on a metal detector- until she found out I had used the crappy one I had for 3 years to find enough bits and bobs and rings and coins to pay for it... and that detector has paid for itself again in about a year (as of this writing). Same with the leather- she was wary of a "whole hide" purchase- until I made workbelts for guys and a few things she wanted as well plus a knife sheath or two I needed. The belts paid for the hide- and she was happy to let me keep exploring this craft. Yes- she has me trained very well. (FULL DISCLOSURE GUYS/GALS and FOLKS- I married an accountant... so I absolutely HAVE to answer for every penny!) My path into leather was like a few others- I "couldn't afford" or did not want to "pay for something at retail" I could make for less and my metalworking was starting to need leather accent pieces and sheaths. Kydex is great for some things- but not things that need a tactile or "warm" feel to aesthetic value. Love the thread-
  3. SilverForgeStudio

    measure tapes leathered

    I know this is going to be a part of my project list- Simple is elegant!
  4. SilverForgeStudio

    measure tapes leathered

    Paloma- Bravo! I am sure its a pleasure to use and supple as well! What thickness are you using and is that goatskin?
  5. SilverForgeStudio

    Protecting Brass and Copper rivets from tarnishing

    Thanks Fred and Mike- Ive gotten a small tin of "Brass Lac" from the overpriced art store/hobby shop near me- Ill give it a swing and see what happens!
  6. SilverForgeStudio

    Protecting Brass and Copper rivets from tarnishing

    Thanks Mike and Fred! I dont think I will be using anything that volatile Mike! Sounds harsh- glad you are still among the living for it... sage advice. Fred I think Im on the right track with the lacquer route so thanks for confirming it- I appreciate the input folks- pics when the project is done!
  7. I have searched the archive and potentially am not hitting on the right combination of word or the right wording/phrase- so if this has been covered please let me know and what the proper keywords are and Ill go digging. Trying to find out if I use brass or copper rod for rivets how to protect the leather from growing a verdigris/tarnish ring from forming. Figured I would be able to paint the head and shank of the rivet with a bit of clear lacquer or nail polish- or even a disc of light plastic under the head like a washer to isolate the contact? I have a few ideas I am trying and know I do not need to re-invent the wheel- but I have several pieces I tossed in a box and they all have whitish and green halos around them. And yes it is partly from non use/oiling/polishing or handling... So Im hoping to avoid it on future projects or at least mitigate it in the meantime!
  8. SilverForgeStudio

    knurling tool

    @kayw If you are trying to knurl for a grip you may try a simple file and crosshatching- stainless by itself depending on grade and hardness may chew up the knurling tool- Most I have made in the shop are 1080 or 1095 and case hardened then tempered back to RC 58- these wouldnt last long on any serious turns or knurling on 440 or 308 with any hardness in them. If you have a lathe a "Scissor" style knurling tool is reccomended versus the standard 2 wheel push- less stress on the toolpost/crosslide and less chance of damaging the punch shaft/bending it An option for the files is to get a "gunsmith checkering file" and DIY it- but these little guys are expensive as well. You can get a barette file, triangle and a chainsaw file and create quite a pattern set from these with a bit of time. Easy mans' lathe for marking round shank tooling: chuck it in your drill and sharpie mark out the area for the "grip" (just hit the trigger and draw/blacken the area) lock the trigger on and push the file edge across the sharpie mark- poof! your first score line mark out your pattern and keep the files moving (dont let them sit and load up in one spot) Use triangle and circular to make round/angular grooves in pattern of choice- repeat that pattern on ALL your tools (your pattern will identify YOUR tools should one "walk" away at a show or jump in a students pocket) wipe off the sharpie- be sure of your grip and enjoy! (some folks put different enamel paints in a the grooves to identify specific sets or groupings) dont forget to file a flat on the "Bottom" side of patterns so you know its orientation by glancing at it- before you hit it! Hope this may give you an idea- if you are crafty enough to make those stamps- this is a simple project to boot! Be safe and as always- at peace KayW! Let us know what you decide to do and how it works out!
  9. SilverForgeStudio

    Help- Newbie with a sloppy Oilskin! Get a chuckle here! How to dry it?

    @johnv474 Thanks for the suggestions! apologies for getting back to you so late! I definitely have more Kitty Litter than I can shake a stick at for now so that is a possibility!
  10. SilverForgeStudio

    Need part for Chinese patcher

    I do understand- and almost ordered from the same supplier. For what I paid for mine- I can afford to fix it- and believe most folks can fix it too- if they apply some basic skills... Caveat emptor and its not a precision machine. Now you're just being cheeky.
  11. SilverForgeStudio

    Need part for Chinese patcher

    Just took a look at my machine compared to the OP- you can skip 4-7 if your mounting bolt-hole from the drive arm (upper) is parallel with the needle drive pin (Lower) and just drill 2 holes and mount this bar. My drive arm is of a different style than the OP with bolt and pin at 90 degrees from each other. (Thus the twist in my directions)
  12. SilverForgeStudio

    Need part for Chinese patcher

    Go read the other Chinese Patcher threads- they are loaded with hints for these little grunts. My biggest headache was the timing- Put a witness mark on the rear cam-shaft and on each cam. Do this with the handle at TDC (top-dead-center) The second timing item is easier- open the bobbin case top-plate and put a witness mark where the bobbin sits when the handle is at TDC of its rotation. If the shuttle comes out you now have a point of reference where it sits at the beginning of each stroke. There are other hints/tips/tricks... you will find more the more you research. Youtube Mainley Acres and Chinese Shoe-Patcher for some troubleshooting items as well. Hope this helps- be safe and as always- at peace.
  13. SilverForgeStudio

    Need part for Chinese patcher

    Why are you going to demand a part from across an ocean that isnt a "mission critical" part for a cheap bush-craft style machine... Now- if it were a commercial/industrial Juki, Adler or Pfaff shipped incorrectly- and it would not work without a specific part or the operation of the machine without that part would negate a warranty... that's a different matter entirely. Hey- I get it... if I bought a Rolex- it better work out of the box... but this- is not that class of machine. Third world manufacturing processes in a first-world consumer market. @chrisash You can fab one in less than 5-10 minutes and if you wanted to get fancy about it just press fit a couple of bearings (might add a few minutes to the job). The machine is a cheap entry level gateway to sewing. These are ditch-bank and farm-craft style machines. So for the cost of the machine... value the cost of your down time to haggle and wasted time waiting. To answer your question yes- it arrived faulty due to handling in shipping and it is not a hard fix. You go haggle for a week or more to get a part- Ill fix it and get to using it. (Caveat here- my own Chinesium-pot metal Patcher which arrived with several dents and part defects- polished up pretty well and gave me a chance to learn how the machine operated so I can troubleshoot later if needed- so yes- I am speaking from experience.) This is a hobby-grade machine- its meant to be modified/adapted/fixed or tinkered with by the user. And Aussie is right the Cast Iron does have a bit of an advantage for porous base material for holding oil- but is fragile. In all honesty you would be better served to push a brass/bronze bushing in place or substituting a bearing for those surfaces. The cast iron coming from China these days is like the "Pot-metal" from Taiwan and Japan of the 70's-80's... it is whatever is left over in the ladle/furnace poured without much attention to spec's or proper cooling (grey vs white cast iron) or finishing- look at the original pic- the hole is even off center bored from the mold-boss. And on my machine- the bores were not at 90 degrees to their pins or parallel with each other-causing binding. Easy fix- a file, some graphite and I am back and running in a few minutes once the offending parts are identified. The OP was looking for advice on how to handle it- My answer is forget about it and fix it... your time is more valuable spent learning a skill and then putting the machine to work. It has taken longer to write this than the fix would have taken.
  14. SilverForgeStudio

    Need part for Chinese patcher

    And Cast Iron is a crappy metal for this arm I agree with Mike!