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Cheval

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  1. Sorry, Not sure what I was thinking when typing that...... it’s the long arm 745R30.
  2. In my search for a tape guide my Consew R30245, I am having a little trouble finding them for this model specifically. Are there compatible hole layouts for Juki or other brands that I could search for online that will fit this model? Also, anyone come across a drip pan for this model? C
  3. By interfering I mean the inner foot is interfering with the material being guided in by the attachment. If you look at the pic below you can see the center toe pulls the material out of the guides on the inner foot. I may just need to grind down the center toe.....I just thought if there was a set of feet like the one initially posted above it would be an easy fix without modifying the current foot set. On a side note, is there a good source of parts online for the Consew 745R, having trouble tracking a bobbin case down. Looks like the current one is a Seiko but there is no part number.
  4. I have a Consew 745R30 and a 1" gauge set. I have a somewhat custom inner foot that has outer guides on it, the issue with the gauge set I have is the presser foot has an center/inner toe that interferes with the guide. I like the one in the pic because the inner foot that is guiding is never interfered with by the outer presser foot, and the feet are holding all the way across the material- if that makes sense.... C
  5. Hello all- Does anyone have an idea of where to find a foot set like the one pictured below? I am doing a similar operation of applying tape/webbing on top of material. Thanks, C
  6. That's interesting, I had come across that document prior in my searching- it gives the impression that the SAN 12 needles will correct the twist issues on their own without adding in an S twist thread. I'll have to check those out when testing. Thanks! C
  7. I have one of these machines on order, my first two needle machine- Is there a consensus out there that using a right twist thread on the left needle yields a better result than using left twist on both? In the manual is states you can use left twist on both needles without issue. I’ll be using Tex 70 to 95 most of the time. Curious what others out there are doing. C
  8. Is it normal for a servo to be squeaky when you turn it by hand? I disconnected the belt and turned the pulley by hand to make sure it wasn’t a belt issue. It also is a bit sticky when hand turning versus when the belt is disconnected, normal as well? The servo is a Family 550S. Thanks! C
  9. I actually did come across Mark’s website before, am checking in again with him. Any idea on how the 145’s differed between the leather and non leather numbering/lettering and heavy vs light duty? I have a CLMN P, would the non leather version just have a less heavy foot/needle setup and the bones of the machine are the same?
  10. Thank you @Constabulary! I will check it out I am in Oregon, if you know of any dealers out this way let me know..... C
  11. Thanks everyone for the info, super helpful! @Constabulary When you say that a long arm is better suited to do the job professionally, I assume that is because of space constraints on the little 145...? Btw I took a look at your 108w20 forum post, wow what an amazing machine- very cool. I am contacting Atlanta and Tennessee for binders, if I can make something work for now with this machine that would be great until I can spend the money on a dedicated binder machine. It's interesting that most synchronous binder machines I come across seem to be cylinder bed versus flat. Are the handwheels fairly standard between brands as far as fit, I have yet to start looking- am I just looking for a pulley in a larger size? @CowboyBob I did loosen the belt a bit and that did help somewhat. I think I will start with changing the pulley/handwheel size and then go to a reducer if need be. C
  12. Hi, Brand new here, but happy to have found this site, I have already found some really useful information. I have a few questions that I need some help and advice on- 1- I have a Pfaff 145 H4 with a "Family" 550w servo motor on it. When starting to sew from a standstill, it hesitates until I push the pedal more and then I get a surge of speed, after that I can slow it down to a slow speed. It may be that skilled sewers are used to the speed, I need a bit of practice ;p. From reading the advice around the forum I was planning on finding a 45mm or so pulley to replace the existing one, and if that doesn't work maybe going to a speed reducer or possibly a different motor...? Sailrite? Does this sound like the best route? 2- Binders- I have found this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/PFAFF-145-BINDER-SET-SINGLE-FOLD-RIGHT-ANGLE-COMPLETE-/292096884215 . Are there other ones out there that will do the job better and will fit the 145? I think Atlanta attachments I have seen someone reference. Is a synchronous binder needed mainly for inside tight curves? 3- This one is more of an application question- The pics below show a saddle pad with a center spline made of webbing sewn on both sides of the pad, I realize it isn't leather but it's the concept I want to use. What is the best method to use to keep the top and bottom center spline webbing aligned, especially if it is somewhat thin. Would using magnetic guides and possibly a guide on the foot be the best approach? Pic below- Pic 1 Pic 2 Thanks!
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