Squid61

Sadly, I allowed myself to get sucked into this thread but as a result I have been evaluating the forum's value to me. I don't have any leather working machines or fancy/expensive tools which eliminates 70% to 80% of the forum content. When a thread is posted that I can relate to I find I already knew and practiced what was being discussed so not much value there. I think it's time to move on, no loss to the forum since I'm not a paying subscriber for the reasons stated. For those to whom the forum is relevant it's invaluable, don't screw it up.

When I grew up in the 50's there was a commonly used slang term, some very derogetory, for every religion, race, gender and national origin. Since commuication was mostly face to face they were used with a smile and as a rule not maliciously. Now that true identities can be easily hidden and much interaction is virtual it seems anything goes.

A fid is used to do things in lacing, splicing and knotting that your fingers can't do. Splicing and knotting fids are usually tapered round tool, marlinspike for example, with fairly blunt tips. Lacing fids should be tapered flat tools with polished smooth edges and a blunt tip. The idea is to insert the fid under the lacing not to cut or punch holes in anything. Holes should be prepunched using either a round or flat punch not a fid. I don't believe a diamond punch is appropriate for lacing.

I don't respond to many posts because I'm a simple end of the kitchen table crafter and most of the threads are about machines and hardware I can't even hope to own. Unfortunately the few members who post in my interest area have gotten too political of late and while I have not officialy ignored anyone I do avoid their threads if there is a hint of politics. I think ignore buttons are too aggresive for what may be heat of the moment posts, we all need to take a deep breath and calm down.

Make it as smooth and shiney as you think it should be or you will never be happy with it. I use a $3 WallyWorld hammer that is just as sold, never caused an issue with the leather. I'm probably the most destructive thing in my " shop" (one end of the kitchen table) not my economy tools.

My old ice pick, you know the kind with the wooden handle missing most of the old red paint, has a 5 inch spike. I think I'd have to cut it down to be useful.

I too have a hardware store scratch awl, I wasn't happy with the thickness near the point so I took a stone and wet or dry sandpaper to it. Works fine for marking lines, not so good for tracing thinner patterns since it tends to ride up on the pattern. Next time I'm around Tandy's I'll probably replace it.

I use diamond punches and awls for stitching and flat punches for lacing. Drills and hole punches leave holes that never close up, makes the stitching look like a summer camp project. I'd like to use pricking irons but decent irons are over my budget.

I often backstitch 2 holes and bring the ends out between the 2 leather pieces on the second hole. Once the 2 ends are hanging out I tie them off tightly with a square knot, the knot pulls into the seam and is not visible.

Later the day of the post YT crashed on me too. The issue I had was that I could not sign in so my subscriptions were gone, the left margin menu completely disappeared. All clear by late night.

Odd, not seeing any of that! Looks normal to me this morning.

Stubborn old fart that I am, I usually have 50's and earlier on including classic Country, mainly 40's blues and jazz.

Most likely melted packing grease, these are coated heavily to prevent rust in storage/shipping. I don't and won't own one but some folks here have made them "work".

Or, you could punch, or glue and punch, a managable thickness then glue the remaining piece(s) and punch them with your awl.

Not a stupid question at all. I used to pierce once but occasionaly had issues with the thread coming loose or bunching up making it hard to pull through. I now pierce twice so the thread forms a sort of S on the needle, seems to work better and pull through more smoothly.

Not sure of the model number. Like a lot of old stuff that accumulates, it's somewhat buried under a lot of other old stuff so I can't easily get to it but I can see it from here! For now I'm content hand stitching.

The only nice shiny machine I can afford is the occasional new package of hand stitching needles! Not sure where the idea came from that I even have a sewing machine, oh yeah, there is the wife's old Singer that I have yet to evaluate.

Frodo, my remaining life expectancy and limited income can tolerate time and money expenditures that directly support my hobby or I can, as you say, piddle both away on a hit or miss - may work sometimes Chinese erector set. I choose leather.

It's amazing how persistent this question is! I guess if the question is asked and answered enough one might eventually get an answer that enables a purchase.

It's true with any product costing a tenth of what most would define as "quality", some are going to work out but many if not most are going to be a constant PITA. I get the impression from your video that your patcher is far from out of the box factory stock. Having said that, there are enough posts on the Forum that indicate even the best machines have their moments wasting hours of valuable production time and often a bit of cash as well. At my level of experience and project throughput I'll stick with hand stitching although the wife does have an old treadle Singer stashed away that needs some investigating, if it's a heavy duty model I might try using it.

I don't see how that could ever have worked as a roller! It must be missing something at the nut end between the roller and guide that allowed it to both tighten and roll. Breaking the roller free needs to be done but that isn't going to make it roll.

I understand dikman. I never use a power wheel or belt on any of my knives, not even pocket knives; I have plenty of time for hand sharpening and honing. Manufacturers use belts and wheels for efficiency so many of us resharpen new knives just to get past the factory edge damage. Edge damage can occur in an instant, particularly on the ultra fine edges used in leather craft and wood carving. I also do not like the slight hollowing immediately behind the cutting edge produced by a wheel; even with a light touch, repeated honing removes metal. Most of my carving blades and even a couple I use for leather are a flat grind and any degree of additional metal removal behind the cutting edge would weaken an already delicate edge.

At a "No Load Speed: 2,950/min" coupled with the surface velocity of an 8" wheel this seems like a good way to overheat a blade edge.

I had that problem, I started placing the anvil on my poly cutting board instead of the granite slab and the problem stopped. What I think was happening was the anvil was sliding on the granite; if I hit it just a bit too hard the anvil slipped and the post offset. With my arthritis I can't squeeze one of those setting tools so I'm forced to use a mallet on snaps and I generally try to use Chicago Screws where I can.

I really like this idea, going to do it to my dedicated stitch and glue ball peen. Have you had any trouble with wax buildup from the stitches?