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About coma44

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  • Location
    western mass
  • Interests
    hunting, fishing, Barbecue, guns

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Complete Newbie
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  1. Weldwood is the glue I use. Auto correct made it into redwood.
  2. I should be able to and get the time to mold the holster this next week. Between regular job, bbq catering on the side and a girlfriend I don't get enough time on the leather bench. There will be more updates that should clean up the questons very soon. For the glue issues I did not deglaze the lining leather well enough and the redwood to had some spotty adhesive spots. Then when trying to fix it I got some glue on the rough out side of the liner causing "stains" in swade
  3. Well here it is stitched up. Had some glue and stitch issues but getting better with each run. And the back.
  4. Ok got the backer all glued up and the flesh out liner on the outboard side. Of the here it is. As you can see it has a good arch which is what I was after. Got to stitch it up and then onto the spacers and holster.
  5. Exactly my plan. Save space and keep costs down for now. Use the savings to fund more projects and practice pieces.
  6. Here is the "backer" all glued up with the kydex ribs in place.
  7. I did not care for how my first try came out on the pocket holster for a scamp. I changed the design today and started version two. Here is the pattern with the tracing paper over it to make the competent parts of the holster patterns. Here is the backer that will keep the gun from printing once in the pocket. It is a piece of 11/12 oz skived to take kydex strips that I will mold into a curve to keep the backer curved. the strips will be covered with flesh out liner leather create friction in the pocket. The holster will be attached to the "backer" with Chicago screws.
  8. I took 3 semesters of drafting in high school two of architectural and one mechanical. Used boards like this one the last year. We only had a few of them though. So had to do it the old way most of the time. I was a mechanical designer for 8 years and used CAD on the computer to for everything. It is nice to get back to basics I don't have a ton more space that I can use for leather work right now so the space saving of making the table dual purpose will help in the long run.
  9. I found a drafting board on Facebook market place for 100 bucks. It was in great shape and all there. It is a full "e" drawing size board so it is 38" x 50" think I will add a plastic top that is removable so it can de dual purpose. Patterns and cutting table just by adding the cutting board.
  10. It is the direction I will go in the future. I will also be digitizing the patterns and may even draw new ones on the computer. But I want to get competent to at hand work first before I spend huge money. Last week I went to a manufacturing trade show for Machining for work but spent a few minutes talking to high end later guys and liked what I saw.
  11. coma44

    Contact Adhesives

    I see that Barge cement offers a thinner, guessing this could be used. I have only used small bottles of weld wood contact cement so far. Just ordered a quart to save money but need some storage jars with the applicators to help prevent the same issue your having.
  12. I like it. Once I get a pile I will have to do something similar
  13. That is where I may end up! I have a few different sized guns to try this with so a flat plate might be the best route.
  14. Guy I work with has a seecamp and wanted a better pocket holster. Figured it's a super small gun and would be a good starting point to put some ideas into fruition. Here is the front showing the spring steel strip that I intend on trapping between layers. Also want to try some "buffed" leather for the outer layer to grip the pocket. Here is the back guessing I will have to mold the first layer to the mold gun then glue on the buffed to make the gun not print in the pocket.
  15. coma44

    DVD of 160 leather books

    I ordered one. For the cost looks to be lots of information