BentleyLeather

I hope that helps! Feel free to share how it turns out. I would adjust the stitching so it fits a bit deeper in the holster. There is enough leather to get it 1/4”-3/8” deeper. A metal clip would also be an easier option than the belt loop. I’ve carried this a few times now in the appendix position and it works pretty well.

Hey Everyone, I just uploaded a new video where I make an IWB holster for a S&W model 642. I'm not a holster maker but I have put a few together for myself to conceal carry and training/range. It's not so much a tutorial as a general demonstration for those attempting this with hand tools. I did make a "rough draft" pattern and have included it as well for free (see it in the video description). I would modify it in the future to sit a bit lower. The pattern is slightly too long so it could handle lowering the gun 1/4" as is. I would have used snaps, but I did not have any handy that would work with such thick leather. Also I would like to try resolene as a finish but none on hand either. Instead I used burnishing agent on the inside and boot wax outside. The few holsters I have made seem to do just fine with the same finish. I may try to find some metal clips for future holsters. Especially if there is one that could reach from inside the pants and go over the belt? Anyways feel free to let me know what you think and I appreciate the support. -Bryan

Welcome! There are a ton of good channels and you will find one rabbit hole after another on YouTube. Everyone has different taste and one style may fit you better than another. Rather than listing names just do a quick search. There are a lot of helpful people on this site as well. Good luck! -Bryan

@Abdo I need to locate a source for a logo stamp. I’ll keep the letter set in mind. I’ve priced a few out. Noticing any more sales yet or to early to tell?

It does look great. Imagine the looks that would get!

Thank you, I know there is plenty for me to still learn. I do not sell anything or have a site to. A stamp of my logo and a heat press would be nice though!

Thank you! Any thoughts on this format vs my others? It’s been fun trying to learn how to video, edit, make templates and grow in leather working. Thanks Tom! I was shocked to see my error. -Bryan

Hey best of luck! I think that is a great way to draw traffic and start a following / business. I think a ton of things go into the algorithm. You are doing something right in my opinion. Keep it up. My goals.. I’m starting off business minded but really long term. If things went my way I’d make a few bucks off YouTube and make/sell in small batches like limited runs of 10-20 wallets at a time. Not sure how that’d go over?

I used something like 3/4”. No I don’t think anything will soften the noise up that much. You end up with a pop or a thud either way. A rubber mat / punch pad would help. I work outside a lot and in reality you can punch most holes for a wallet within 10 minutes. Cutting, stitching and edge work will occupy more of your time than punching holes.

What are you wanting to make that might be a better place to start? As far as noise rivets are very noisy especially setting anything larger than#14. you could probably get away with a small table and get a small slab of headstone and use some rubberish mats for punching stitching holes. I have a set of the pliers that punch holes but I was never happy with them. Some people like the round hole type you might could use a chunky thread and hand punch? You could also mark the holes and use an awl. just a few ideas to ponder..

Well it appeared the site was not uploading my topic so I kept refreshing and WOW I have posted this like 4-5x! Will a mod please delete so only one appears? Thank you and I do apologize for this error -Bryan

Hey Everyone, I just uploaded a new video where I make a small wallet with a goat leather interior (Alan - chèvre sully and outer is buttero). This time I sped the video up by 2-3x throughout the video. I noticed not many people stick around past 2-3 minutes anyways so this one is slightly shorter ~7 mins. If you want to check out my other videos and let me know which style you prefer? I may do a long tutorial in the future? Open to any and all suggestions to make things as viewer friendly as possible. I am liking mixing things up as I have not nailed down "my style" so to speak. Overall, just enjoying making videos as time allows and providing some education / entertainment. Currently my job keeps me too busy to consistently make anything for sale but who knows what will happen in the future. Thanks, Bryan

I think you are doing a great job. Your thumbnails are on point and you seem to be getting a lot of subs and views. Just comparing what I'm seeing on your channel vs mine since we both started about the same time. Are you more interested in drawing traffic to your ETSY or grow the youtube thing? I'm just trying to understand the click through, impression, traffic and watch time but it seems like my views are drawing about 2-3mins of watch time so about 28% of the actual video. I'd guess your videos are getting a higher % watch time and that is good for the algorithm as best I understand. You can always PM if you care to discuss this stuff in private instead? -Bryan

I’m about 2hrs south of you. I’m on here off and on but you can send me a PM

I was printing as a PDF all along but I was obviously missing all of those settings.

Thank you both for the help! I just started learning all of these programs and it can get confusing. I have a new respect for people making videos, patterns, editing pics for social media, etc.. It is really a lot to learn.

Hey thank you! I was headed along those lines as well then it was not in the right scale, when I saved as a pdf from a jpeg? so I did some more searching and found this: I think I solved it and this was my solution. In AI: File > Save a Copy Set format to Adobe PFD Then select press quality > Set marks and bleeds to all printers > Then export. I then opened it in preview > print > save as PDF and done. Here is the new link if you'd like to check it? It should just be a simple set to 100% in us letter and print https://bit.ly/2AqMW38

I made a PDF template and exported it to scale but when I print it looks as if the lines shift like this ( _____----------________) when I print it in draft and both high quality. The first time it did fine so I'm not sure if it is my printer? Here is the link if anyone would like to check it: https://bit.ly/2zrJZi2 Does anyone have an idea on how to export a template to scale in adobe illustrator and it not be degrade in quality (if that is the issue)? If someone checks it and it prints fine that would be helpful too. I was wanting to use it in a youtube video. Thanks, Bryan

I had considered this as well but only for say 5-6oz leather max, actually more like 3oz with a glued in 1 oz liner. Do you all think a 1 ton arbor press would work in that application? Let's say it was modified by adding a steel plate on the bottom and on the arm coming down. Just curious. Thanks in advance.

I see this ended up being revived so I better give an update: Not long after this post I ended up building a 4' x 5' table using 3/4" plywood, 4x4's and 2'x4's with a framed edge and slight "Lip" around the top so my tools would not roll off. It has a bottom shelf as well that as mentioned above gets cluttered but I have a few pull out plastic bins and a big tote I keep leather scraps in. The table is also on casters so I can roll it into and out of my garage. I worked on it outside today because I needed better light and it was really nice outside. I did have an issue with stain + poly coat as it was in the 40 degree range when I built it and I was too impatient to let it sit days without drying (I sanded it lightly and applied a thinner coating). Overall I am happy with it, besides the finish being messed up in a few places and the fact that I was not ambitious enough to add drawers and storage for leather as I had originally intended. It gets cluttered often but it is now my only work space for leather so it forces me to keep it clean. I have not needed to cut any large items since making my wife a purse (thank goodness that is over). The only issue I see with it now is that we had thought about moving and I realized it would always remain a garage table because I did not design it to be taken apart and it's much too large to fit through most doorways.

I'm not expert but here goes nothing.. The thickness will more or less determine what you can do with it. I don't see why grading matters because you have what you have. If one has a blemish use a different area or make a smaller project with it. If you are happy with your work then cut it up and make something. I would recommend you get a decent leather and perfect your skills, pattern and the project you intend to make before cutting on an expensive exotic hide. If you get a smaller thread you will clean up that stitching some. Or you might simply trade someone else a hide in exchange for them making you an item? It would be tough to determine what could be made without seeing it first hand. Just a few ideas. I hope you can find some meaning in it.

I think the experts above clearly answered things. Just to add to some of what I have seen as far as machine stitching goes: A few weeks ago I repaired a really old (client stated 30 yrs old) safariland holster. The upper part of the belt loop stitching broke lose because it rubbed on the cylinder of the revolver. The rest of the holster was still rock solid. Same could be said of several other items 40+ yrs old. It was a matching wallet, sunglasses case, brief case and padfolio. A few of the items had a broken stitch or two but were holding up well despite being machine stitched. If the end user has access to a thread and needle or a lighter most likely the items could be repaired before complete failure.

Wonderful job! I made my wife a tote for Christmas and it was simple but hand stitching everything was VERY time consuming. So again great execution. May I ask how you did the interior. I assume you sewed a bag then glued it and stitched it up with the inner ring? Did you trim the lining back a few mm from where the leather connected at the top to allow for burnishing? Thanks, Bryan

Thank you all for the input. I had thought about putting an edge board around the MDF. my grandfather used some as an out feed table to a saw and besides the random spills it’s held up fairly well for 20+yrs, besides it’s ugly now. The hardboard is a good idea too. I understand. I had 12’ of workspace before and large parts were always covered up with tools. This time I’ll have 2 tables against the wall for all of my random hobbies and one rolling floor cart for leather. Hopefully I can organize stuff better. Debating size still and 4x4 or 4x5 may work just as well 4x6’ per the point you made.

I’m giving my garage interior an overhaul and would like some opinions. Hindsight is 20/20 so to speak and I’m sure some of you have good advice. I’ve been using 2x4’and 2x8’ tables to spread out on. With larger hides the 2’ tables leave you wanting more room. I’m looking to build a dedicated leather working table. I’d like storage underneath for both tools and leather. I’m thinking 3/4” MDF for the top, around 6’x4’ and with casters that can raise and lower. I mostly make wallets by hand stitching and hand cutting, so tools are pretty limited at this point besides a creasing machine and hand tools. I kind of know what direction I’m leaning but thought I’d throw the idea out for opinions or ideas others have incorporated. Thanks, Bryan