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About BSmithy

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    New Member

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  • Location
  • Interests
    Cooking, ranching, simpler life styles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Doing everything wrong but it still works in the end
  • Interested in learning about
    Lots of things
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
  1. I appreciate all help on this, I finally figured it out. Through an insane amount of button pushing on the annoying little motor panel. I found a setting that I didn't know it had, nor did the instructions mention it, or any video ever. And that seemed to be causing all the problems. Now its sewing like a charm (once I got the threading part down).
  2. The manual for the motor is one single piece of paper. I have looked through the other manual for the machine itself and there is no mention of a synchronizer or anything like that. I honestly don't even know what this thing would do.
  3. I looked up the post, glad to see someone else finally had this error, but still didn't answer many questions. I would call them, and I tried, but they are all off on vacation till the 2nd. But thanks anyway, this might give me some more information to help narrow down the search for answers.
  4. So I just got my brand new Cobra class 4 yesterday from Leather Machine Co. With help from the instructions and the video I got it setup and on its table and everything. Plugged it in and all was fine and dandy, until I tried to sew. Worked for about maybe 3 seconds and then the motor started flashing a E5 error code. Consulted the little piece of paper about the motor and it says its the Synchronizer is fault and to check it and the position signal. I haven't the faintest clue where this synchronizer is or looks like or anything. In no piece of literature that I have access to is a synchronizer mentioned, the DVD doesn't mention it, no YouTube videos or anything. Please help, the leather machine co people are out of office till the 2nd of January so I can't call for help. Let me know if I need to include more information about the motor. There isn't much.
  5. I do believe #138 or very similar is the biggest I have used for in my hand stitching. I would prefer not to have to alter the machine at all, the more you mess with sewing machines and make them sew what they aren't intended for, generally that is when something will no doubt go wrong.
  6. I apologize in advance if there is a thread already about this particular topic on here, I couldn't find one in my research, but that doesn't mean it's not here somewhere. So I am looking into getting a new sewing machine and have narrowed it down to Cobra brand sewing machines simply for a variety of reasons. However, I am having trouble deciding between a Class 26 and a Class 4 and haven't really found a whole lot of information about the pros and cons of the two machines, there are some videos but nothing really goes into great depth about it, and blog posts are all a year or two old and I'm not sure if the machines have changed in that time. So here is a brief overview I guess of some of my past projects and ones that I am hoping to do in the future to show what type of projects I will be using them for. I know there is no such thing as a "One and Done" sewing machine, there are ones for light duty stuff and ones for crazy heavy duty ones. I feel like I fall somewhere in between, and since these machines aren't cheap I don't want to make a mistake that is going to cost me money and frustration because it won't be able to perform the tasks I need done. I will put this note first. I have no intentions of ever doing anything related to saddlery. I'm not even particularly fond of horses themselves, everyone thinks because you do leathercraft, that you make tack and saddles and all that stuff, and changing their mind is like watering a dead plant, doesn't do any good. Also please note, I'm still learning all the correct terms for a lot of different types of leather and tools, so please bear with me. Onwards then, the most recent projects that I have been having fun doing is like large sized journal covers (cookbooks, record keeping etc) using the tooling body of a 6/8 oz, a layer of picture hanging board (whatever it's called) for stiffness, then a liner of 2/3oz, and holder pockets of 2/3 oz. So the edges would be if I have figured this out correctly, 10/14oz? I trim the stiffener so it's nowhere near the seams. I've also made some clutch wallets that once combined are around 8/12 oz thick. I have also done some small knife pancake style holster/sheaths that come in around 9/10 oz. So the thickest I would probably ever sew would be a few layers that add up to the most maybe 14 oz leather or so, and the thinnest might be two layers of like soft 2/3 oz garment leather for bag/pouch making. So as you can see my projects range, and I'm always willing to experiment with textures, thicknesses, and styles and such. I've got a lot of projects sketched out a ready to do, but keep holding off because the large amount of hand sewing they require, and to be perfectly honest, hand sewing kills my hands and takes forever to do on bigger projects. Also if anyone can tell me the difference between the Cobra class 4 standard package and the Cobra class 4 premium package available of the leather machine co website that would be size, I know one comes with a lot of attachments, but are they worth the extra money?
  7. So far everything about the machine seems to be fine. I did get the 35lb+ clutch off and have the much much lighter servo installed, looking into getting a new belt the other way has signs of age probably from the heat and dryness around here. I honestly don't know what was causing the thread to break, took out the bobbin cleaned around it a little bit and put it back in and it's sewing somewhat nicely now. I like my tension is a little messed up because it isn't completing a nice loop as it should, the top thread is being pulled down instead of meeting in the middle as it should. The needle had a number on it at one point but I can't make it out anymore, and the thread was just thick upholstery thread that was with the machine I don't know it's weight. So I have attached several pictures. The one is just simply 5 oz leather scrap I had, the one set of empty holes is from when it was breaking the thread, the other set is what it is currently doing. I apologize for the horrible pictures I didn't have the best lighting at the time. The other one was the bobbin and it's tangled up knots that it was doing before when it was breaking, it doesn't seem to do this on lower speeds now (might be a gunk build up issue). The needle is in correctly, the grove is going the right way, have triple checked the threading and the thread pulls just fine through the needle. Since I don't have a new belt that works I haven't tried sowing at speeds faster than I can turn the dial. However what isn't adding up, is I have manuals for both the 211G155 and ones for a U series if you take snippets from both manuals I can figure this machine out, but relying on solely one or the other things don't add up. For instance, I don't have a knob located on the left side that controls the oil flow and things like that. I don't know if it broke off or what. Also when I say knife holsters I don't mean heavy duty 10oz things, I use lighter weight leather because that is what I have access too currently and I am still practicing so I don't splurge on the heavyweight / higher priced stuff. Thanks, everyone for their input slowly I am getting this machine figured out.
  8. Hello, I'm new to this forum but after many google searches resulting in this website, I thought it might come in handy and it has. I managed to come into possession of an old singer sewing machine that I believe is a 211G155 (that is what the plate says but some things aren't adding up on it). Anyways it has a miserable clutch motor on it that sort of runs, as in when you flip the power switch it turns on, but when you press down the pedal the pulley doesn't move and it makes a strange noise. The machine is filthy and I am working on gently cleaning it. So I have several questions about this to anyone that has experience with this type of machine. I posted a few pictures below and I can easily take many more. I am not doing anything really heavy duty with machine, it was used by an upholstery company before and I am starting to dip my toes into the leather world and hand sewing just kills my hands and doesn't look the nicest (at least not yet). I mainly doing book/bible covers, knife holsters, little projects like that nothing extremely complex or fancy yet. The price for this machine was great (free) and I know for a fact that it used to run beautifully but has been in storage for the better part of 10 years. I am sure there are more questions or comments in my head but can't currently think of them so I will keep adding them as I find them. Also if more pictures are needed to understand what I am talking about or anything just let me know. This is the first time I have ever used an online forum to help fix a sewing machine. I am looking into getting a simple servo motor, I will not be using this machine every single day, but some light sewing on projects like book covers and things like that, nothing extremely thick or anything. Here is the link to Amazon on a motor I am thinking about. https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-SERVO-MOTOR/dp/B001VK9YH8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=XO4E7ED40K4D&keywords=servo+motor+for+industrial+sewing+machine&qid=1559502680&s=gateway&sprefix=servo+motor+for%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-3 Currently when you go to sew something, and I thought I had pictures of my test stitches but can't currently find it. It will pull up the bobbin thread and between the manuals I have and youtube I have it threaded correctly, I do believe. But the top thread just gets cut or broken with the bottle/bobbin thread instead of completing a nice loop. Any suggestions on what might be the cause. I can run another sample and get pictures if need be.
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