BruceWampler

Thanks, sounds just like what I need.

figured it out. I had to shim the oscillating rod all the way to the right side of the machine to keep it from binding up the shuttle hook. Waiting on a new shuttle driver carrier hook (can't remember the name). Hopefully then all will be well.

1. Got a used Consew 206RB5. Trying to adapt it so I can quit, or at least minimize my hand sewing. I have an extra feed dog for it, but before I take it to the Dremel table, I figured I would check and see if there were other options. What works best? Tension on the pressure foot, rounding the teeth on the pressure foot, grinding them off, grinding them down? 2. Balance wheel was changed. Just a plain old (about 5") pulley looking aluminum wheel on it right now. Anybody got anything laying around they'd let go for cheap so I didn't have to have my hand riding so close to the belt?

I had to try it, to realize it all needs to move inwards, not out.

Yep, watched it. I didn't see him cover what I need. I need to adjust the shuttle driver/oscillating shaft inwards. The needle is rubbing the side of the hook by about 1/16 of an inch. The adjustment of the needle/dogs is nicely explained, but that's not what I need.

A big thanks to Airplane Guy who sent me a copy of the Navy Manual.

Wrong direction. The bobbin race unit is too far forwards. The needle height is fine. Learned that the hard way. I now have a handy little thread pitch gauge and a direct line to the local Singer parts dude.

I used to own a 31-15 that was motorized, so I know the capabilities. Hopefully this is a stupid question, but here goes. I purchased a machine someone had taken home from a factory that used treddle machines, who knows when. It had a 2 extra aftermarket cast bobbin carrier holders. It was missing a nut on the bottom, and everything that could be tightened, was loose. It had a home needle in it, and the drawer was full of vintage home needles. The bobbin hook was rounded and wouldn't catch the thread, so I ordered a new hook and carrier, and installed the correct needles. (Yes, I know which direction to put the needle in). The timing looks right with the exception of when I install the cast piece and the bobbin carrier group the machine seizes up. Loosen the retaining screws, and the machine functions fine, but the needle drags across the edge of the bobbin hook. Here's the question. Does anyone know the correct way to adjust the bar so it doesn't jam the bobbin hook into the iron carrier? I see a set screw where it can be rotated around, but I need it to be just a hair shorter, away from the bobbin carrier group.

First off, I have arthritis and other hand issues. I have the Ridgid oscillating spindle/belt sander and the Harbor Freight 4" belt with 6" disc. The Ridgid is much better at detail work on wood. I've been thinking of trying the spindle on leather, just haven't got to it yet. The Ridgid is a much smoother operating machine with a good stable base/table. The HF is a beast, that vibrates a lot. It works, but I prefer to use the Ridgid for accurate work. I haven't been happy with Dremel results, or with a flex shaft due to my hand problems.

Tagged. I'm interesting in your solution. Indian quill work on sheath

I'm still in the figure it out stage with mine. The 138 works fine on mine, both top and bottom. If I had to guess, I'd say that tiny bobbin holds 5-6' of 138. Everybody keeps talking about methods of winding bobbins. I just hold the bobbin with my fingernails, with the end of the thread pinched on the edge of the bobbin. Then I just twist the thread on and cut the tail before I install the bobbin. My problem is, I just have to figure out how to get the presser foot to quit marking up my leather. I've ground the edges off, and lightened the tension screw. It doesn't gouge anymore, but it's leaving indentions. May have to try that plasti-dip. I haven't polished mine up yet. I'm waiting for my son to loan me his vibratory cleaner thing.

Are there any buttons/detents on the bed of the machine? (To keep the adjustment wheel from turning until you want to change the stitch length.)

Thanks, I'm going to try them.

I was taking apart a rotten (or rotted) sheath that I can date to between 1936 & 1944. The external threads were pretty much gone, but the interior threads were intact. They look like natural fibers, and pass the burn test. My guess is they are cotton. I have read of gut and linen being used traditionally in hard leather goods. My question is, I have access to high quality cotton thread, and some hemp twine. Both are well made with minimal thick spots. I will be waxing whatever I end up using. Can anyone tell me their knowledge or experiences using these particular fibers.

I recently read that some re-enactors will cast their own buttons for authenticity. Another idea would be long Chicago screws. You could put a washer on the screw side to keep it snug to the flap. Lock-tite if you prefer.