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BruceWampler

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Posts posted by BruceWampler

  3. Posted · Report reply

    1. Got a used Consew 206RB5. Trying to adapt it so I can quit, or at least minimize my hand sewing. I have an extra feed dog for it, but before I take it to the Dremel table, I figured I would check and see if there were other options. What works best? Tension on the pressure foot, rounding the teeth on the pressure foot, grinding them off, grinding them down?

    2. Balance wheel was changed. Just a plain old (about 5") pulley looking aluminum wheel on it right now. Anybody got anything laying around they'd let go for cheap so I didn't have to have my hand riding so close to the belt?

  7. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, trash treasure said:

    Have you checked that the needle bar height is correct?  It may have been lowered to use the home machine needles.

    Or maybe I'm misunderstanding the problem ......

    Wrong direction. The bobbin race unit is too far forwards. The needle height is fine.

    34 minutes ago, Cascabel said:

    While you are putting things right, be aware that Singer did NOT use standard threads on their machines, so hardware store screws and nuts will not work.  They had their own proprietary threads on their hardware.  You will need to get screws, etc. from dealers in Singer parts, or have them custom made.

    Learned that the hard way. I now have a handy little thread pitch gauge and a direct line to the local Singer parts dude.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I used to own a 31-15 that was motorized, so I know the capabilities. Hopefully this is a stupid question, but here goes. I purchased a machine someone had taken home from a factory that used treddle machines, who knows when. It had a 2 extra aftermarket cast bobbin carrier holders. It was missing a nut on the bottom, and everything that could be tightened, was loose.  It had a home needle in it, and the drawer was full of vintage home needles. The bobbin hook was rounded and wouldn't catch the thread, so I ordered a new hook and carrier, and installed the correct needles. (Yes, I know which direction to put the needle in). The timing looks right with the exception of when I install the cast piece and the bobbin carrier group the machine seizes up. Loosen the retaining screws, and the machine functions fine, but the needle drags across the edge of the bobbin hook. Here's the question. Does anyone know the correct way to adjust the bar so it doesn't jam the bobbin hook into the iron carrier? I see a set screw where it can be rotated around, but I need it to be just a hair shorter, away from the bobbin carrier group. 

  9. Posted · Report reply

    First off, I have arthritis and other hand issues.  I have the Ridgid oscillating spindle/belt sander and the Harbor Freight 4" belt with 6" disc. The Ridgid is much better at detail work on wood. I've been thinking of trying the spindle on leather, just haven't got to it yet. The Ridgid is a much smoother operating machine with a good stable base/table. The HF is a beast, that vibrates a lot. It works, but I prefer to use the Ridgid for accurate work. I haven't been happy with Dremel results,  or with a flex shaft due to my hand problems.   

  11. Posted · Edited by BruceWampler · Report reply

    I'm still in the figure it out stage with mine.  The 138 works fine on mine, both top and bottom. If I had to guess, I'd say that tiny bobbin holds 5-6' of 138.  Everybody keeps talking about methods of winding bobbins. I just hold the bobbin with my fingernails, with the end of the thread pinched on the edge of the bobbin. Then I just twist the thread on and cut the tail before I install the bobbin. My problem is, I just have to figure out how to get the presser foot to quit marking up my leather. I've ground the edges off, and lightened the tension screw. It doesn't gouge anymore, but it's leaving indentions. May have to try that plasti-dip.

     

    I haven't polished mine up yet. I'm waiting for my son to loan me his vibratory cleaner thing.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    I was taking apart a rotten (or rotted) sheath that I can date to between 1936 & 1944. The external threads were pretty much gone, but the interior threads were intact. They look like natural fibers, and pass the burn test. My guess is they are cotton. I have read of gut and linen being used traditionally in hard leather goods. My question is, I have access to high quality cotton thread, and some hemp twine. Both are well made with minimal thick spots. I will be waxing whatever I end up using. Can anyone tell me their knowledge or experiences using these particular fibers.

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