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Everything posted by nylonRigging

  1. Most anytime you want to drill/tap a hole on the Flatbed. The Machine body overhangs blocking your average pistol grip style Drill from anywhere near getting your Bit Plumb. A small R-angle drill will get you into the places with little workable headroom clearance . You particular model Consew is single-needle, and does offer very affordable and wide selection of Presser feet. You might get lucky and not have to Modify your R-side of your presser foot at all . It all depends on model type machine you are putting a Binder to, and it's offered selection of Feet, and just how close you have to get to that Needle for your feed. .
  2. what Don and Wizcrafts is saying .. . You will be picking up a lot of small facts in a fast,short time . so don't feel overwhelmed and stay relaxed. Mounting brackets and direct deck mounts, Drilling and Tapping is no biggie and is all but expected, .. PLUS your going to want to get more Presser Feet... LOL .. fitting/cutting/file/trimming Feet, to fit your need is all part of Binders . All tools you will get good at using . small R-angle Drill , Thread Taps . Then Cut/Dremel , Grinder and a File. a small Vice. To shape Feet for a mounting Binder into a workable slot . You spend many Hundreds-$ on a top-shelf Binder, or folders, Or just spend 20-$ for generic Binder off EBay . But all have one thing common in the end everyone deals with . YOU Alone have to make this happen . For a fact, you all by yourself ( will spend Many Hours ) . in finding that, perfect Spot to mount, with just the right Distance, correct Height and perfect angle of Feed . All set in that perfect slot set into the side of your Presser Foot, That most times you have to make. Your picking up and building a lot of good knowledge to have. 1st time new Binder Set-up, It's always Pain in the Ass, but it does get way easier after you do it a couple times and get your head wrapped around the basics . This 1st trip your now taking. You will be gathering a lot of little details and store them away in your head, that you will come in pretty handy latter down the road. Because if you are sewing for any amount of time. You will have 'want' more Binders setup on this same machine, or Binders on a different machines. .
  3. My ego eye can't tell what brand of binding you are using by the Pic. ..LOL . I was just saying that I have had real bad issues with a lot Import, NonUS milled binding Tape, especially in the mil.spec.typelll . Me If I buying binding, Usually buy from Bally Ribbon, but If I have bought from other suppliers I make it a point to ask where they bought it from because until you run a lot of good quality and bad tape, it hard for you to really see the differences . I see on-line generics that say and list different options of throat widths . If you don't see listed, You need to email or call them and ask for an answer of sizes available . but If a company can't tell you what the simple feed opening of a binder is, then you should have nothing to do with them . You live in Canada, so I don't know if you have any Shops that build to order . If you want 'one' of the Best for custom soldering made to your specific wants, I go to Tenn. attachment . Just expect to spend a few hundred $ minimum, and you can easy get up to about 600-$ pretty quick . but you get something that will last and give quality results. Right Angle Binder, is feeding your tape into the throat at a 90deg. off to the side, and not straight in front of you . Your binding then makes turn and folds into the Throat, running into your machine feed . ( me ) , I like a swingarm bracket for a top load bobbin machines, with the Binder system mounted on the slide plate covers . .
  4. Sailrite binders are still pretty generic and are nothing special . Your going to want a Right angle to do corners and negotiate radius proper . So Ask Sailrite if they build a R-angle 3/4" binder with an adjustable mounting bracket for your Consew . Also take into consideration your foot setup on your machine . Your going to want to adapt the Binder side of the press foot, so the Binder can slip in there close as possible for good position . - ...edit add: . I Mic'ed both my Single Needle, and Double Needle binders and they both are around the ( 5.5mm ) in mouth openings . Your upper post say's you are using a 2.6mm opening, and you were getting tight on negotiating over transitions of thickness of added seams ..etc with the flow of your binding. Your 2.8mm sounds ideal for thin edge and a nice finish, but you need bigger for thicker material with good flow up and over spots . Also, I just checked with the single needle and 3/4" tape . and ( for me ) the thickest I would Bind with 3/4" tape with single needle is about 4.5mm thick of material stacked to look good . You can only push 3/4" so far for a wrap and look nice . This also .. ( Just my opinion ) Use GOOD Quality binding . Your using 3/4" bias weave and type lll binding . The day I quit buying subpar Import crap binding trying to save a Dollar, and 100% moved to good US milled product, was the smartest thing I ever did . The majority of import is hideously out of Spec. it's CRAP that does not track and flow , it causes more headache that the worth of saving a few dollars over Quality binding. .
  5. Binding is always a BIG PIA to learn , 'everyone' has Lot's Of Headaches at first...LOL . and is a pretty in-depth study throughout your entire time sewing . Single Needle . You should be able to get by with most what your binding with 3/4" tape with, 5.5 or 6 mm mouth/throat on the Binder. Your using bias weave tape, and that is good flexible for doing tighter radius . ( Just my feeling ) probably your biggest problems with the way your tape is tracking and feeding to sew, might be the way your Binder is set-up to your machine to materials used. . and just your lack of technique built up doing it . like negotiating the thicker seams or sections that your passing over. Also .. Not to say that you cant do decent binding with a generic . but there a BIG difference in end product quality, between using generic Binders bought off the internet, and buying custom soldered binding throats . I have always got best results using hand built/soldered setups and the Tape/Binding always tracks the best threw there throats. But generics are Good Learners to build technique. - On that link posted of ( ngosew ) . I always got positive dealings with them for several years. if you call or Email NGO sew , they always get back to you. They are down a little S. of me in Salem OR. mail --> ( info@ngosew.com ) ... Jack or Liam are the 2 contacts that I have dealt with. .
  6. Much appreciate the Info, and also the time you are taking putting it to Pics. and Posting . It really helps cutting down on some of the modification headaches that are always there when your getting new 'sight unseen' hardware for a machine . .
  7. - Damn .. saying that is .."very reasonable price". is understatement on that hardware kit receipt you just posted . Those Pic's you posted, sell themselves . & Very affordable price to purchase and have a wide selection of different Throat sizes. to have on hand for binding different thicknesses of materials. .
  8. Good deal, that a little stress that you clear of now.. If I cant get old metal free and moving with heating, that when I start to get worried . Hope your staying warm to ' It's Cold ' . I noticed your profile in Portland . I over west past of Hillsboro and the Ice is coming down here pretty steady now . seriously thinking of chaining up the 4x in morning to even get wife to work. .
  9. Hot air Heat it maybe ? , with direct heat, I have loosened up a lot of 'old' screw that have been torqued down for ages with soldering iron tip and direct small flame . But larger area, like you describe . maybe just pump some heat to it for a time with a hair dryer on high-heat, or a heat gun set on low setting . then manually working back-forth slowly try to turn shaft . .
  10. That japan/Consew serial# Head, I bought new back in May of 2001. still have receipt in the drawer . But I know the wholesale outfit I bought it from was sitting on it for more than 2 years before I bought it. I was eyeballing it for sometime, whenever I would go into Portland for parts or supplies . So I thinking ( guessing ) it is about a 98 -1999 production. .
  11. I have never seen an on-line Consew serial#'s and date of manufacture archive to look that up, Like you can easy do with Singer manufactured machines with factory serial#'s cross reference open direct to the public. Does your Consew machine have the serial# cast on the underside front of the machine ? . You might give call or email Consew, and ask if there is a way, or if they even do publish there date of manufacture info . .
  12. Your choice of course but I would have the turn on the inside. Yes that a great looking Bag . I like that cut and look. It just that people with years experienced and with ( Ego Eye ) ...LOL . there eye is drawn instantly to, ( proper Aesthetics ) , and the strap fold-seam not being presented for forward view . .
  13. What Uwe is saying . looks like a Binder for floating on cylinder bed . Flatbed set-up is a different animal , but No reason why you cant put together a Binder to do what you want on a Flatbed if that what machine you going for, and material you edge binding . But.. ( All I know, is what I do ) , and for advice, all related mostly to the materials/items I design, sew and sell, doing the same sewing for quit some time . My personal Binding knowledge is deep, but narrow niche . All my sew/Binding knowledge is tuned around set-ups on the Flatbed, and for single and double needle, and I personally prefer ( Needle Feeds ), with usually using different 3/4" to 1" width Binding . - I put this Pic. up here once (for an example ) for slide-plate mounts with binders sometime back . This Pic. is flat bed, right angle, R-side slide-plate mount for double needle. That thick heavy binder throat in the Pic. , I had Tenn. attachment solder up . But I put adjustments in the swing arm for some height and angle . Also 3/32" raised Dog and Throat plate work with the Binder for added adjustment . - -
  14. you don't have any adjustable play for height and angle in that Binder setup, on the flatbed . looks to be that the throat is screwed down to side-plate, with limited only a In-Out play for how close you want to the foot/needle . also maybe put a picture up with a more top view of your attachment . what exactly is your machine ? .
  15. Correct ... but only 13" on the length of workspace . and not 16" like a full 441/4200 model clone . ( TerminusEST ) ... very Nice .. I never seen that ( table top mount before ) on the Artisan/toro 3200 model . That Pic. explains a lot also with power controls, motor, foot, hand . . You got a Sweet factory set-up for a more portable/confined working space, while still keeping-up on the punching power with that model head . Someone will be getting a nice low hour set-up with your sale. - I Have/been working that 3200 model Artisan for a while now. but It mounted steel stand/castor wheels, and UWE flat-table top . and it sews thread cord pretty well , and surprising it still Very easy to dumb it down to using #138 if you want to go that small also. .
  16. I think ? , that be called ... " using your Artistic interpretation". . in 5000 years of history gone by, today finding truly unique one of a kind ideas/patterns are going to be few . .
  17. Thanks... for future reference , will write that down and throw in the drawer on the old 217 . .
  18. Only time I ever had a problem with the Bobbin Case, and sporadic uneven/high thread tension, was really pissing me off for a couple days, but I had a spare bobbin case and I threw that in, and it all went GTG after that . Turned out when I closely examined the old bobbin case, I could feel and see it happen, and was original factory bobbin case that worked for years perfect, The Bobbin Case went 'out of round'. ( I must have) dropped it on the concrete floor of shop when it slipped out of my hand and the metal Case must have hit on the edge and bounced just right . That made the bobbin case bad in one spot, that gave bad clearance for the bobbin when spinning to rub/hit when sewing. .
  19. If ? .. in the end, you cant find a replacement screw with compatible Singer Co. thread pitch and proper length . You could just 'slightly' over-bore the original inside Diam. of the hole . and then just ( hand Tap with T-handle ) . Tap/cut the thread pitch to more common and easy to find thread size . Hand Tap is very easy to do, if the hole is easy accessible, or just remove the part and put in a vice to hold and drill and Tap . If the hole is a real small Diam. Just take it slow and easy, use plenty of fluid and keep cleaning Tap and chips out, so to not snap a tiny Tap off in the hole. .
  20. I want to Bump Up this thread on 'snips ' . If you do go to the goldstartool website and buy snip. ( don't mistake ) those 'GS' house branded snips, for the Touro Tesoura snips . They look the same on the webpages, same price, But they NOT even the same quality of snips ....LOL They sell ( 2 ) brands of 4-1/2" snips . the Touro are 'GOOD' deal/good quality . Those 'GS' house branded snips are a BIG Step down below there quality . Using the two brands sideXside in the hand cutting and visually, those Touro Tesoura snips have better looking blade grind, better finish and obviously better quality control over those GS snips sold there. .
  21. That is the main reason in getting delays on orders being put in . One person test positive, That person goes home for 14 days, and then everyone else that 'thinks' they had 'possible' contact can go home for 14 days. Seems like everyone is waiting for something that is not getting filled on-time with making an order. I been waiting since Nov. for an order of 1-k buckles from distributor, and they finally got they order going out to me ups today . From what they are saying to me on phone calls , It's just the normal quantity demand for the items, but Both, them/distributor and the manufacture have been running shorthanded on staff/employees from all the covid horseshit that is still going on. .
  22. That machine has been sewing for how many years without having it ? ... So (IMHO ) you just over thinking it . Just Sew with it . It probably has no reverse lever, still it is a really good all-around machine to have in your stable. Easy to work on, and easy find and inexpensive parts also . .
  23. I was going to say but forgot . are you using 135x5 needles ? . I think you can just set-up your machine with 135x17 no problem with raising the needle bar a tad bit to compensate for the little longer needle . Also .. ( if you don't already know ? ) . you can also throw a 'roller foot' on that bottom feed of yours with that presser rod and common high-shank split toe foot, and set it up in 20-30 minutes, and they really sew great. Those roller foot aftermarket kits for your Mitsu. and a Ton of other similar models are mass produced and dirt cheep . Come in small/medium/large rollers . The kits come with all parts dogs/needle plate/flip-up roller foot. all for less than 20-$ - -
  24. Hey .. Thanks for the Post of the Link I do own good gingher and mundial's sheers as well as using the cheap snips , and these are good Snip's . I bought 4 of them to check out and use, and these snips are really good quality . ( just a heads-up ) The sale price right now probably not going on past the new year, but these snips are going for only $-9 .99 apiece . I do love the cheep eagle disposable snips, and I been buying them for Years, but a guy could get spoiled using good snips ....LOL . . Only 'time' will tell the true quality of the stainless blades, but they handle nice, the tooling and grind look GTG and they snip in close and tight on the smaller #69 as well as the heavier thread cord #277 and 346 . .
  25. Poly. thread does stretch, it just that Nylon thread stretches more than Poly. like ( DoninReno ) saying, the general 'rule of thumb' is that Poly.thread tends to be more UV resistant and hold dye color better when getting a beating by UV . Nylon is better for holding up for abrasion and a little higher tensile strength over Poly. Nylon and Poly. thread both start melt right around the same Temp. , When burning each they also smell totally different . When melting thread tails, the Nylon thread melt a lot nicer than Poly thread . I like the way Nylon thread tails makes a nice little puddle. Poly. thread tends to just Flame-on pretty intense and quick . You also notice when hot knifing/cutting Nylon thread weave of webbing's and nylon fabrics, that it's a lot cleaner/nicer melt with Nylon. .
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