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vblouindemers

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About vblouindemers

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    New Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    quebec city, canada
  • Interests
    industriel design. vintage watercooled VW

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    car seats upholstery
  • Interested in learning about
    leather sewing
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    troubleshooting machines - google

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  1. Thanks to you sir! ended up doing a flat 1/2 thickness skive - the beveled was giving me headaches. Flat was easy and I am cool with the outcome.
  2. First project ever with the newly acuired skiver. Buffalo leather (8-9 oz), pretty stiff. My 211 was having very little pleasure. 2 bent needles, but the 4 of them are sewn. need a finishing bench for those edges.... Since showing off is the key, lets see some pics! thanks for the help with the skiver, leatherworker.net
  3. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Mister Harry. My machine is of the older type and the tension on the feeder roll is dialed in by the means of a pull handle to pull on the spring and preset holes. I will try with lesser tension (I was first suggested to crank the tension up...). When you say "taking a little off of the starting corner (about 1/2 way in) and then start" do you mean hand skiving partially the initial corner, or you mean pulling back on the leather so it does not rest against the "width" guide and then quickly feeding it at an angle towards the width stop? By medium roll, do you mean something in this range ? http://www.campbell-randall.com/public/index.php/product/fav-801-2-50mm-emery-feeding-roller-2-medium-grit-italy or more like this: http://www.campbell-randall.com/public/index.php/product/fav-856-2-50mm-steel-feed-roller-medium-z120 I would rather have you say the grit style (price wise) but I will get whatever I need. so, grinding wheel + belt + dresser, feed roll, deburring stick. Anything I am missing before I hit the buy now button? Again, thanks.
  4. Hi folks. I bought a old fortuna to reupholster a set of Breuer’s wassily chairs for a friend. I am usually in car upholstery stuff and cechaflo’s videos had me wondering when I would biy a skiver. That project sort of was the tipping point. Bought the machine for 100$ site unseen and well it’s a little rough but should clean up nicely. . I still need a dresser for the grinding wheel (and a proper belt for the said grinding wheel) but the blade was very rough with huge dents and now it’s looking good. I adjusted everything the best I could and got it to skive ok. Well flat skives are good but for the wassily chairs I need a tapered skive and I am having a hard time getting what I want. on every skive the initial cut comes further in the material (even though the thickness of the resulting skived edge is consistent). Tried playing with feed roll tension - angle- height and relative bell knive position with little to no difference. I want a beveled edge to joinn 2 pieces (both skived) of buffalo 3.2mm thick leather I do know my knive is not 100% sharp. Am I doing something wrong? Anybody wants to chime in? Thanks!
  5. If I understand correctly you get it right... but wrong. The 566 has 2 adjustments where the 166 has only one - the rocking mecanism itself ( fig. 25 - E2 & F2) plus an adjustment for the reverse stitch residing in a excentric bushing at the end of the shaft F2 that you can rotate to anticipate / retard the moment at which the shaft will hit the block at the end of its course. I think that would allow you to maintain full forward course while reducing the reverse even more. In the machine features they mention "independently adjustable forward and reverse stitch lengths" which I assume it what it means. The adjustment is somehow limited to certain parameters, but that they don't tell you.... :-) Again, 1000 thanks.
  6. Just wanted to say thank you for feeding the faith. I was able to balance forward / reverse with giving up a little forward length. From what I can tell, the reverse is always a "ratio" of the forward advance and only in reducing the forward motion you can get the ratio to 1:1. Gives me roughly maximum 7 mm forward / 7 mm reverse instead of the 8.4 forward / 5mm reverse stated in the manual. I am cool with that. I do not use the 8.5mm too often anyway. I can always trick it back if need be now that I know my way around it. I adjusted the reverse excentric (near the screw B in fig.38) to the maximum setting, then tricked the reverse mecanism F2 until forward and reverse matched. Changed stitch length on the machine, they are still balanced. Bingo. I am a happy sewer. Again, thanks!
  7. damn these are very bad news.... Thanks for the reply anyway!
  8. Folks, gurus, aficionados.. I acquired a singer 211U566 a while back for my auto upholstery work. My reverses stitching (when needed) is always hidden so I have never cared about the reverse not matching the forward feed. Now a friend of mine asked me to refurbish his wassily chairs and so having balanced forward and reverse is important as the sewing will be in plain view. I have tried adjusting the excentric roller at the end of the reversing shaft which helped but reverse is always shorter no matter what stitch length is selected. The longer stitch setting is precisely 3 stitches per inch so I assume the machine was not "tweaked" for longer forward stitch length as I read can be done. I found a manual for the machine this morning. The manual states that the reverse max stitch length is around 5mm, which is pretty much what I get if I adjust the excentric roller to it's most permissive location. The manual is not so clear regarding the possibility of balancing the forward / reverse feed as it is in the 211G166 manual. So, to all of yall who know the tricks of the trade, should I be able to balance the forward / reverse on my 211U566 ? Or they (the factory) tweaked something to get longer stitches (3/inch compared to 5/inch on my 211G166) but in doing so lost the possibility to get balanced forward / reverse motion. Thanks for your help, I can send pics if needed. And if I missed the answer in my research, please point me in the right direction.
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