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Posts posted by JC2019

  1. Okay I will research more. I don't use my machine often but glad to know that's a big part of the problem. This small part of the thread getting caught is a much more minor issue and I can deal with it for now but want to eventually solve it too.


    The bobbin thread is indeed a bit more tight than the needle thread if I pull on both, the bobbin white thread I use is a bit more tight.



    I started using different colors to see my problems more clearly, which one lacked, tension, what was actually getting caught, etc.




  2. 4 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

    (I guess you mean Techsew 2600.)

    I think we need a little more information in order to help you...

    Does that happen at the beginning of your stitching or somewhere further on?  Are you holding the tails of the two threads at the beginning so they don't get pulled in/under?  What thread are you using and what needle?  Is this a new problem or are you new to the machine?  Have you adjusted the bobbin tension properly?  Is your needle worn?  And how are you threading the machine?  Photos/video would help.

    I just tried again  and I held the threads this time and that must have been the problem. Or at least part of it.


    Now my next problem is that part of the needle  thread (I use black thread for the needle & white on the bobbing to see what is going on better) goes into the hole of the bobbing (bobbing thread is white) but I am assuming it shouldn't get stuck in there when I am done. The problem is at the end of stitching, part of the black /needle thread  seems to always get stuck in the bobbing hole when I am done stitching. I have to pull it out by force.

    This is hard to describe but usually I expect to be done stitching and do the following:  I make sure my needle is up and not in the leather. Then  I lift the needle up. I pull on my leather piece and it pulls both threads from needle and bobbing. I cut both. Then I should be done but that's not what happens for me:

    Instead:  I make sure my needle is up and not in the leather.  I lift the needle up. I have to jank/pull hard to get my leather far enough to cut the threads and a piece of black thread is left stuck in where the needle goes in (where the white bobbing thread comes out). I have to pull  out the black thread after I cut the white and black threads from my leather end. I'm not sure why that is happening. 



  3. 3 hours ago, MtlBiker said:

    (I guess you mean Techsew 2600.)

    I think we need a little more information in order to help you...

    Does that happen at the beginning of your stitching or somewhere further on?  Are you holding the tails of the two threads at the beginning so they don't get pulled in/under?  What thread are you using and what needle?  Is this a new problem or are you new to the machine?  Have you adjusted the bobbin tension properly?  Is your needle worn?  And how are you threading the machine?  Photos/video would help.

    Yeah typo. Thanks for the response.

    I am new to the machine but have owned a while now. I don't use it often. It has always given me this problem. 


    Maybe it does a few stitches before this happens. I am not holding it on the side no so I will try that thank you. The needle is brand new.


    I am using thread it came with still. 

    It is threaded according to the youtube video they  have here but I will try to rewatch it a bit more and provide my own photos:





  4. I am wondering if this is something to do with the bobbing being thread being too tight vs the needle thread being not tight enough?

    I've adjusted the tension at the top of the machine (knobs where it thread through).


    What happens is it stitches a few times and then it bunches up and snaps. Happens pretty quickly.



    I also have a side question: sometimes my machine on going in reverse it will get stuck if I stop mid way (maybe I left the handle go on accident while it still is moving.. not sure). Usually what happens is the needle snaps since the machine is stuck and can't move. Is there a better way to resolve this that won't snap the needle? What has happened there?


    Thanks again

  5. I've seen it commonly recommended to buy a leather jacket that fit's pretty snug, in fact some people claim they've bought jackets that they can't even fully zip up. I've also heard this is a mistake.


    What is your take? I imagine something like a horsehide would have very little stretch? But  thinner cowhide, lamb, suede maybe has more and you might buy your own jackets more snug? Or would you just recommend something a bit more loos to begin with?


    Then there is the concept of "breaking in" leather shoes so some buy them kinda snug too but some need to get them professionally stretched.


  6. 3 minutes ago, fredk said:

    There might be major hardware store in your vicinity. Most of these will do mail order now with us all being locked up.

    Basically most of these hardware stores charge cents for D or O rings and you can buy 1 or a dozen

    The place I bought from (closed down now but I have another source) charged anything between 20p and 50p per ring, depending on size. A 'leather work' lighter weight version was between  £1.50 to £3 for same size

    Great. I just have to find someone. I do know a few people I can call locally so I should try that. 


    I probably want to get "sets" so the metals and colors can match. For now "gold" and silver and mainly silver is what I will focus on finding.

  7. 2 minutes ago, fredk said:

    For strong duty steel D and O rings I bought them from a farmers & builders supply merchant. I found the ones meant for 'leatherwork' were just not up to the job, they could be bent too easily. The ones I bought were meant for chain coupling and were very much stronger and very much cheaper.

    I also got the occasional roller buckle from the same place

    Makes sense, I am sure there are trusted hardware suppliers out there I can buy from online? I'm looking for places that can ship to me (even if it requires a phone call) to the USA. I figure someone here would know. Also what kind of pricing should I expect and are there order minimums?




  8. 2 hours ago, LatigoAmigo said:

    I can't be much help here, but curious about your budget. A custom made leather jacket, with all the necessary fittings, finishes, lining, etc., could run into quite a bit of time. What is your price ceiling? You don't really have to answer, just curious.

    Most likely I'll buy something off the rack for about 1.2k each. I was hoping to get 1 in black and one in brown. Perhaps one also in suede for a total of 2-3 jackets.  I know sometimes models will go on a discount at the end of their  life cycle so maybe I could spend significantly less. I would rather buy once and keep it for a while, hence why I want something simpler in design and color.


  9. Hi,

    I am looking to learn more about leather jackets and buy one for myself of higher quality. 


    Any recommendations for leather jacket companies would be appreciated. I do want something simple in style and look without a lot of zippers/pockets. Either a moto/cafe racer style or with a small collar  but still simple.

    I know Schott has been around for a while and they sometimes use Horween leather on some of their jackets. I do like the styling / fit  of some of the more "fast fashion" / "modern fashion" companies like All Saints, Coach and Theory, but the leather to me doesn't feel the same.. and they provide very little info on their leather. I haven't felt the coach jackets in person yet so I should do that. 


    A custom made jacket is also something I would consider but I'm not sure how much those would cost or the hit/miss of doing this remotely for a garment. 


    Thank you

  10. I know there is a lot of discussion around top grain vs full grain , etc.  But I was curious about what you guys have encountered with suede leather and if there is any real way to judge it's quality besides feel and look. I imagine there is also bonded suede but I'm not sure how to identify it.


    Mainly I am researching leather jackets for myself but also have always been curious about suede and learning more about it.



  11. 9 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

    Sorry for such a very late reply on this I only saw it by accident the other day. I use mostly what started off as an Elksmaker A3 laser which came with a 2.5 watt diode. After getting into it a bit I decided to run with a program called T2 Laser which was written for the Elksmaker machine by a very smart fellow called Zax I believe. Within the forum that he runs for this T2 laser he has mentioned the 2.5 watt as being the most ideal for laser engraving as it has the smallest focal point and can thus do the finest engraving. With the T2 laser you can opt for black and white or grey scale or dithered, photo and velocity mode etc etc so yes it does gradients truly as well as dithered. Recomendation wise I would go with an Elksmaker A3 and progress on bigger if you want. I say that as it takes the GRBL (open source) and it is fairly easy to make a lot larger if you want.

    I don't do much engraving really but I do, do a lot of cardboard pattern cutting and box making and stuff with it. One of the best things about the T2 laser is that it allows me to put in DXF cad files which can have different coloured lines and depending on the colour of the line it will cut them at a lesser percentage than the other cut lines. For box making that means I can cut the fold lines in at say 20% depth (green) and the rest all the way through. On some jobs like this prototype phone pouch I am currently working on  I can have a mark line put on at the same time as cutting to help in later on lining up foam or other stiffeners and such. All of the patterns for this pouch are cut out on the laser because that allows me to go back and alter the drawings most easily. A couple of pictures should help to explain this better I think -

    The first pic is just to show relevance -


    This one shows why having something able to cut poster size and can cut many different pieces or multiples is a major advantage. Note the little yellow things a pieces I 3d printed to hold 9mm magnets and make them easy to remove. The base under is all metal.


    Here you can see on the cardboard the mark lines for the pieces beside them to attach in the correct place.


    As below


    Now showing them glued and ready to put togetherDSC05853_resize.JPG

    A little bit of 3d printing for extra strength -


    Hopefully getting clearer now



    All stitched up on my Cowboy 4500 with 138 (20m) thread.


    Now I can go back and fine tune the design a little more.:P


    Follow up questions:


    how are you doing your alignment for the placement of your magnets, do you have a webcam addon?


    Also, can you tell me more about the 3d printing reinforcing and how does that work, help?



  12. 8 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

    3.5 Watts will be good when you get the hang of using it. You will find that you can use it for cutting fairly well as well. Do think about how to vent your fumes as aside from your health it can help in keeping things to run cooler  keep smke out of the laser cutting path and give you longer cutting times. With the larger fan I incorporated on mine I often get away with 1 hour plus cutting jobs. One little thing to keep in mind is that you can do multiple passes on a cutting job which means that you can have it run for say 10 minutes doing 1/2 of the cut and let it sit there for 5 minutes to cool down and set it off again to finish the cut. With the T2 laser program I use I can set it off doing a multiple pass job with a inbuilt pause of however many seconds I want it to cool down between passes. They call it the "cool down time" when you instruct it as to how many passes you want it to do. Smart Hey. You may not be able to run that with out the GRBL coding but you can just start it off again from where it stops again anyway. They are amazing how accurately they follow the path, in the phone pouch cutting I put in cut lines for the magnets at a spacing of.25 mm apart for the thickness of the metal prongs and they came out perfect.

    Have fun and let us know how it goes for you.

    Great thanks for letting me know. I ended up getting a bofa filter and a fsl muse co2 laser too. I havent build an enclosure for my diode laser or cnc but hope to do that soon.  noise is a concern for me but these seem reasonable so far. 


    Havent been using the laser at all except for some small tests but its really cool.

    I have 2 3d printers that I also havent really used much but did make a test stamp which was kinda fun.  I am not sure if the resin printer I have will be of much use for leather work but its incredible technology.

    I want to upgrade to a non toy cnc machine but that one will be one of the last few toys I get. I am pretty happy with everything I have. I really have too much already. 


    I think I might try using acrylic to see how patterns might turn up on the laser.

    I do also have a little tiny vinyl cutter toy machine that might do paper/cardboard but not sure how well.

    Right now everything is still done for fun and curiosity for me but I have been thinking about the business side more and more and how to scale and automate. 



  13. On 6/27/2020 at 4:40 AM, RockyAussie said:

    Mostly I only ever use left over split leather from belt backs as a filler in my combination dress belts. In some applications it could be used elsewhere but generally the weight increase compared to the foam is not as desirable. The foam allows more flex as well.

    good to know thank you 

  14. 3 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

    Some bags I use just foam to give structure and some have a combination of a stiffener and foam on top. Most of my totes/backpacks  and such use just a foam.

    Great thanks. Do you over use left over splits from a hide as stiffener ? 

    I read a while back that I should stay away from split leather so I don’t really buy it on its own but perhaps it’s valuable still?  Or should I avoid it like bonded leather or do you think they have  their uses? I am trying to stick to top/full grain for the most part but still fairly uneducated. 


  15. Just wondering what you guys recommend I use if I ever want to make a backpack or bag more "structured" so it doens't just flop over. I've taken a few older mesh/fabric backpack apart and they seem to use foam?


    What material do you want to use for leather? Is foam also fine? Or would you recommend something else like "Stiffener"?



  16. On 8/15/2019 at 8:50 AM, Wizcrafts said:

    You can determine whether or not the motor has a brake by unplugging the motor and removing the upper belt from the machine, then right hand wheeling the speed reducer's big pulley under the table. Alternate between leaving the floor pedal fully up, then slightly depressing the floor speed pedal with your left hand. If there is a brake it will he very hard to reducer with the motor (off) in the up position of the pedal. Slightly depressing the floor speed pedal would release any brake and allow the pulley to turn with very little effort. The actual range of free motion on servo motors tends to be minuscule, so feather the pedal. If moving the pedal, while its unpowered, doesn't get easier when you toe down, there is probably no brake.

    Some machines ship with a little plastic bag of spare motor parts, including brushes and an extra cork brake. If there is a cork brake in the spare parts, your motor uses a brake! The brake is removable if you find you don't really need it to stop at your normal sewing speeds.

    The hand wheel seems to be easier to turn now... not sure what changed.


    I am not sure what I should know about the motor break but I'd be curious to learn more. From techsew, their response on it: "motor brake, it’s built into the motor. When you release the pedal the motor should stop on it’s own.". Does that help?

  17. I am just setting up my Techsew 2600 and I'm in the process of setting everything up. In the instructions it says to turn the wheel counterclockwise by hand. I have a normal sewing machine and this turns very easily.

    Is this supposed to be very stiff and hard to turn? I guess that's just how an industrial sewing machine is supposed to be.


    I'm having a little hard time finding more detailed instructions in video form for this machine but I am looking up the 2700 videos to see if I can't learn more about it. If anyone has any good resources let me know. 


    Also wondering what the little lever under the "Caution" yellow sticker is supposed to be used for?






  18. Just a quick update. The replacement parts arrived and I've put the table together and now it feels rock solid. It's a world of difference. It would have been a huge mistake to try to use the other parts.

    I will need  be reading the manual to try to put this together this weekend. I haven't been able to find any video instructions on how to put this model together, if anyone has any tips let know.



  19. 2 hours ago, Techsew Ron said:

    Hi Jason, sorry to hear what happened to the table in shipping. As of the end of day Friday we were still waiting for you to do a full inspection to make sure no other parts of the table or machine were damaged. We still have not gotten a reply from you.

    This morning I'll make sure the replacement legs get shipped to you immediately at no cost.


    Great thank you.


    Not sure if it got missed but I did send a reply email last night to support@techsew.com   (I added that I would need  5 parts, everything minus the bottom most cross bar where the pedal goes. I forgot to ask for some spare screws to attach the legs to the table since one or more might be slightly bent). The machine I am not sure is damaged or any other part since those probably require actual testing.

    Thanks again.

  20. 9 minutes ago, kgg said:

    That is good news. I would seal the top in that location to prevent any further damage from concurring in the future.

    I think the little chip is from the manufacturing process not damage and the hole probably as well. So far, except for the legs, seems good.


    I sure hope so.  If only the steel parts are a problem that is a lot less worse than it looks I think...


    At this point, assuming each part is maybe $40 shipped to replace.. that's $200 for the two bottom legs, two top legs, and cross bar.  Hopefully that's worst case.  I guess I won't be getting the upgrade for the flat top since I'll need to replace these first (I meant to get that but it seems I didn't add it to my cart, only the servo reducer upgrade) :/.


    The top leg (the side with the really bad leg I removed) does seem to wobble a lot from side to side. I took it off too. Maybe the bottom screw is bent slightly or it's just not very sturdy to begin with. I could fill that hole with something and it might take the screw in better. Still need to investigate that further, perhaps it's just not as stable until it's all connected via the crossbar.

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