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About mason1800

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  • Birthday March 29

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  • Interests
    Leather work, DJ and Guns.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    wallets and bags
  • Interested in learning about
    everything. lol
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    online search

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  1. @bikermutt07 I've heard seen folks using denatured alcohol or similar to wipe the edge down prior to using a binder. Then the actual edge paint is added.
  2. Just to add to this. I also use 2-3 needles to line up the two side while putting the sides together. that way the stitching holes line up perfectly.
  3. these are the steps I take for card wallets. check this youtube channel. This guy has really good info on the process and steps to make small leather goods.
  4. @rahere Same here, except my pockets tend to bulge as the center has the bulk of the leather. Which is why I dont use the square. The steel ruler actually curves along with the leather. @Danne when you say "stitching doesn't line up" what are you comparing it to?? the edge or the backside? (Meaning one side is closer to the edge than the other?)
  5. the more pockets you layer, the less width towards the bottom. Now for every pocket, mine are usually 1mm thick lining and leather, the amount of reduced width is about 0.20 of an inch for 5 pockets. When you line up to cut you sides, you would use the cutting mat lines. Level the top straight on the mat lines... adjust the leather to 1/8 or 1/4 inch from the side. Lay your steel ruler on top of leather piece and align the ruler to the lines on the mat. this should give you a straight edge. unless of course the top of the pockets are not lined up correctly against the cutting mat lines.
  6. @Danne As for the top i cut the straight edge after i glue the cash pocket and the bottom after i glue the outer piece of the wallet. My plans are to start making my patterns with 2 to 3 trimming lines, one for the lining of the pockets and backing. one for the top of pockets when they are attached to the cash pocket and the third for when i attach the outer leather. Meaning true size for the bottom and two sides.
  7. @Danne I usually make all the parts 1/2 inch wider than required. After all pieces are glued, I mark 1/8 inch on each side top and bottom and use a Skiving knife to cut right down the side of a stainless steel ruler. I have also used a larger blade punches, the type to punch card slots for single pieces leather.
  8. Hello, I'm selling my like new pricking irons. I bought a few weeks ago but find no need for this size as I'm making watch straps and wallets. $270 for the set. Will not sell separate. 10 teeth 2 teeth thanks, rick
  9. @Ferg I'd be skiving chrome tanned leather and some veg. mostly Goat and gator. But @billybopp got a pretty good idea !! Might be something to look into. @Ferg Ill shoot you a Message about the skiver.
  10. Thank @RockyAussie , I'll look into these brands. Do you think just a bottom roller feed with aspirator is suffice? I had, liked the thought, of having a feed roller on top and bottom to manage the feed, but if its not needed I can look into other models and save some money. I will check on the aspirator function too. I will be making bags, wallets, totes and so forth and thought I should start shopping around and gathering info on what is best for what in doing.
  11. @JLSleather And where can I find Sandy's info??? Im looking to buy some nice metal clicker dies. If you dont mind. Oh and thanks for the Field notes /Passport cover a few years back... lol
  12. Im looking to buy my first skiving machine for fine leather work. Looking for a reliablle brand (Fortuna, Nippy) , a brand I can get replacement parts in case i need them. Also one with a top and bottom feed rollers. Any suggestions? Somewhere i can keep an eye out for? (websites, Forums or craigslist)? Any info is appriciated. rick
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