Jump to content

Gulrok

Members
  • Content Count

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Gulrok


  1. On 10/8/2021 at 2:39 AM, Arturomex said:

    There was another discussion about this. Someone who was keeping track of his (I believe) retail sales posted this information:

    Belt Size Breakdown

     

     

     

    30" - 10           0.9%

     

    32" - 60           2.8%

     

    34" - 115         10.1%

     

    36" - 220         19.3%

     

    38" - 220         19.3%

     

    40" - 220         19.3%

     

    42" - 215         18.9%

     

    44"- 110          9.6%

     

    46" - 60           5.3%

     

    48" - 55           4.8%

     

    50" - 25           2.2%

     

    52" - 25           2.2%

     

    54" - 25           2.2%

     

            1,140

     

     

    I think there might be a flaw with the numbers in that the poster used what appears to be a total number of 1,140 belts for the percentage calculations when the total number of belts added from the column is 220 more at 1,360. That throws the percentages off but, in this individuals experience selling belts, this is more or less how it shook out.

    Interesting that the biggest sellers were right around the middle.

    Regards,

    Arturo

    This sizing is accurate with 36-40 also being my most sold sizing.. we've sold hundreds of belts too.

    We don't go above 50" so I don't have data about that. 


  2. Hey guys.

    I'm currently using W&C English bridle & Chahin English Bridle for some strap work, but I'm looking to move to a leather that is a bit drier. 

    The only thing is that I'm looking for leather with a pasted back and that is relatively clean. Any good sources? 

    I know I can custom order a skirting leather from W&C and ask for a pasted back but I'm trying to avoid spending as much on it. 


  3. On 9/19/2021 at 10:21 AM, globalmetalco1 said:

    Anyone looking for high quality brass buckles (for leather belts), small buckles for watch straps, saddlery items and customized hardware in a variety of finishes? Get in touch with Global Metal Companya reliable manufacturer of bronze and brass hardware, which accepts small production runs and customized orders for items.

    242088144_1088474448350525_3737744267757  BKL142B7-West-End-Belt-Buckle-Solid-Brass-416x416.jpgBKL142B7-West-End-Belt-Buckle-Solid-Brass.jpgCollection_Brass_235x.jpg

    Can you give us some examples of costs? There are quite a few options here in America already. 

     

     


  4. On 8/15/2021 at 1:31 PM, BeefSupreme said:

    I thought Herman Oak only offered one style of English Bridle, but it looks like Weaver and SLC are selling two very different sides of HO English Bridle. Can anyone shed some light on quality differences between these two? In the pictures, Weaver has a finished flesh side, while the SLC flesh side looks undyed or less treated. Weaver also has a Herman Oak style number stamped on it. At a glance it looks like Weaver has the nicer leather, but wanted to hear from anyone that has used these before.

    $250 /side from SLC: https://www.springfieldleather.com/Hermann-Oak-Bridle-London-Tan?quantity=11&leather-thickness=15

    $330 /side from Weaver: https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/02-180s-10-12/hermann-oak-english-bridle/pr_26819

     


    I use to buy a ton of Hermann Oak English Bridle from Weaver - mind you I have a wholesale account so I generally pay cheaper pricing. Although, I believe if you order more than $500 of leather at a time you can get the same wholesale pricing.

    Weaver's Hermann Oak is $10.41/sqr foot for 10/12 oz. Backside is pasted and clean. I usually end up spending like $250 / side on average.

    I cannot comment on SLC's Hermann oak. I've bought their other leathers, but never HO. 


  5. Hi guys.

    I'm a wh*re for sewing machine apparently. 

    Currently I have a Techsew 2750 pro, a Cobra Class 4. I'm now looking for a full time flatbed machine. I use the Class 4 for sewing all of our fire & Ems equipment with 277 thread. The techsew is primarily for bags and small goods.

    I'm either looking to turn the techsew into a full-time binding machine, or turn the techsew 2750 (Juki 341 clone) into a flatbed essentially and get a full time binding machine. ( Just looking Uwe https://uwe.store/collections/featured-items/products/ut341-flatbed-for-juki-ls-341-class-machines has a option ) and then build another table which supports and fits around the platform Uwe has.

    So I found someone with a

    Highlead Walking Foot Cylinder Arm GC2698-GC - and I can't seem to find a lot of information except its "like a Pfaff 335". Will this work for general binding on leather bags? 

     


  6. I ended up purchasing all the equipment in a previously abandoned shoe shop. Apparently the owners died years ago, taxes went unpaid... the building was sold to a new owner who wanted everything gone. At least, that is what I'm being told.

    For the total price of $1700, I ended up getting..

    3 - Landis Model K - No.12 stitchers
    1 - Sutton McCay sticher of some sort. 
    5 - Various autosoler models... 
    1 - Antique singer patcher
    1 - Champion sander/polisher machine
    2 - Landis 5 in 1 (1 may be a champion)

    Various other tools. Tons of stuff. Sole presses, 

    So I definitely have questions about everything. First of all, we're doing really well for ourselves in our current niche market. I've had a big drive to get into footwear at some point, and figured this could be a decent deal. I 

    Q1: Do I need more than 1 Landis Model K? 
    Q2: How about autosolers? A few of them look different, but theres 5.

    Here are the photos

     

    https://imgur.com/gallery/3I9wr06

    hlgUh30.jpeg

    WlmH5WS.jpeg

    mbShlPi.jpeg

    H5f1e0a.jpeg

    OnrhEsv.jpeg

    d2DBopB.jpeg

    xQmPQPz.jpeg

    7djnkdY.jpeg

    YAvyjdm.jpeg

    ng9QcH6.jpeg


  7. 1 hour ago, pogue44 said:

    On the K model you won't be able to put casters on them.  I've tried to source industrial casters with a long enough stem.  Found some but when you try to move it they bend.  It's a waste of time, effort and money because of the 3 point legs.  Beyond that it is always going to be unstable even if you could find casters.  The three legged configuration is deadly for tipping over if the wheels don't spin right.  

    Casters do however work on the Landis L models with square base.  

    The best way to move a K are the following:. 

    1.  Put a pipe under one of the legs and do a leveraged slide.  The longer and thicker the pipe the better.  Very effective to move on a flat surface. 

    2.  Grizzley tools sells a rolling tool stand wheel set.  Great to move the K around the shop.  

    3.  Use a powered winch or hand crank come along to get them up a trailer ramp.  My best recommendation to move them by trailer.  Harbor freight.  Go slow and adjust the legs as needed to slide up the ramp.  They slide down the ramp by themselves.  

    4.  Make your own platform with 4 wheels.  I believe 32" x 32" should work.  But I think mine is 30" x 34".  But not really sure.  Need two people or some set blocks to raise it to put it on a platform. 

    5.  Dolly.  Good luck with that.  There are some specialized Dolly's that lean back with four wheels but they are expensive but a joy to use on these machines.  Use a Costco dolly and 50-50 chance you will hurt, maim or kill yourself. 

    I'm moving these by myself all the time using a combination of the above.  

    Other advice:. Leave the chainstitch where it is.  Nobody really wants to buy them.  

     



    Any chance you think a 30x30 pallet would work? It might be easier to palletize them.


  8. Hi guys.

    So.... I've come into a couple Landis 12 model k stitchers (3) as well as a hi speed chain stitch mckay stitcher.... among others...

    The biggest issue I have is that these all machines are about 1.5 hours from me. They're obviously heavy. I noticed they have holes in the bottom of the machines that are either for bolting to the floor or possibly casters/wheels. My plan is to use an engine hoist to lift the machines, install casters and then be able to roll them into an enclosed trailer.

    Does anyone know how big the holes in the bottom of the machines to bolt casters to? I didn't think about it until I took photos of them. 


  9. 11 hours ago, Techsew Ron said:

    Sorry to hear this. Like most other companies during covid we're dealing with a much higher sales volume and more support requests than ever. We make it a point to get back to everyone within a maximum of 24 hours. I would have to look into your specific order to see what happened with the control box but this is certainly not the norm. Most of our customers are in the US and it is never really a concern with express shipping options available.
    Please feel free to contact me personally by dm, phone or email ron@techsew.com and I'd be happy to assist with anything.
    regards,
    Ron


    Hi Ron,

    I totally understand the challenge with the global pandemic. I hope you don’t take it as an attack. I know your machines are good and your team is good. 
     

    My challenges with my machine are because I put all my eggs in one basket. It’s my only machine. 

    I totally get the challenge of getting more volume in orders but being unable to get more on the support side. (Currently where I’m at). 

    I’ll send you a personal DM with just some direct feedback. 


  10. 5 hours ago, Handstitched said:

    G'Day, 

    I'd be going with a Cowboy 4500 or Techsew 5100 , or other 441 variant. 

    277 M10 is what I and many others on here use for the heavy stuff . 

    Have a chat with 'Wizcrafts' . 

    HS

     

    4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

    I use a Cowboy CB4500 for thick or hard leather, as well as heavy webbing tow straps. I only use this machine for items needing #138 and larger thread. I do occasionally use my 100 year old Singer 42-5 flat bed for hemming heavy chaps and some upholstery because it can run heavy thread if need be. All other sewing with thinner thread is done on my various standard duty machines.


    I think I'm between the Cowboy CB4500 or the Cobra Class 4P. Essentially the same machine from what I'm reading.

    Not that techsew isn't a quality company... but my current machine has been a nightmare from hell, and during the pandemic their support (understandably so) lacked a lot. I know Ron and his team are good people, .. but it left a taste in my mouth. We went a few weeks without a control box on our machine because it gave up the ghost (a capacitor exploded). Being in America made everything take longer too. So it isn't anything against Techsew, just want to get something from an America dealer instead.
     


  11. Hi folks.

    Almost two years ago I purchased my first leather sewing machine - a Techsew 2750 Pro. We initially were sewing bags and wallets, and at some point during the pandemic shifted to more strap goods.

    We're sewing about 11-13oz leather straps at this point with 207 thread. The problem I'm having is that we're at the far max of our sewing capabilities (207 thread) thus we're running into some problems. At this point we're ready to add another machine to the collection. We're basically now fulltime sewing 207 thread. (Wanting to play with 277 as well). Somewhere around 10-20 hours of sewing a week. Our 2750 pro isn't cutting it anymore. 

    But we're having some trouble figuring out what machine to go with next....  Obviously we don't want to max our thread size at 207.. we probably need to be mid 300s-400s. Something else to consider is that depending on the project and hardware (fire & ems equipment) we've gone as far as 3 layers thick of 11-13 oz leather (vary rarely). Mostly just 2 layers. So 1/2" to 3/4" pressure foot is probably not a bad idea. 

    A 441 Clone? 
    Alder 205-370?
    Some pfaff variant?

     

    Not saying either that price doesn't matter, but something that gets the job done on the cheaper/reliable size would be a good thing. 

    Maybe used machines to keep an eye out for?

     


  12. On 3/15/2021 at 11:31 AM, JerseyFirefighter said:

    It may come down to using brass plated instead of solid brass. Thanks for the confirmation that I am not the only one. I know of other guys doing similar work experiencing the same issue. Just a shame there wasn't a better alternative/more stout brass snap to use. 

    I haven't had the same issues with brass snaps failing. We're currently using weaver's solid brass snaps.

    How are you setting them? We've been using the weaver little wonder and their attachments for line 24 and line 20 snaps. Could it be a hammer action that is work hardening rather than the single action from the press?


  13. 44 minutes ago, Aven said:

    You can get metal stamps at Lowes in different sizes, but mostly the same font.  They are plain, but should work nicely for what you want.  Here's an example of what's available.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Capri-Tools-36-Piece-Professional-1-8-in-Letter-and-Number-Stamp-Set/1002622266

    For sure - I kinda wanted to be lazy and have all the stamps ready to go without needing to stamp individual numbers... not that it wouldn't work. 


  14. Stock in Barrel Shows a punching kit where they have sizes on them. We're doing a lot of belts and I'm looking for something similar, but just on a budget.

    Any idea where I can find something like this. Apparently tandy isn't selling them anymore. (I'd be happy to buy off someone too if they have it )
     

     


  15. Hi guys.

    I sent over a pattern to 7 different die makers this week to have a bifold made. 

    3 Didn't respond.
    1 found me on facebook and messaged me saying they needed more measurement (adobe AI pattern provided)
    1 said their engineer was out and would quote me on monday.
    2 quoted me. 

    I'm between two quotes right now. One is with texas custom dies and milwaukee dies. 

    Milwaukee quoted me $415
    Texas Custom Dies quoted me $344. So an obvious difference.

    My understanding is that Milwaukee embeds their dies in an acrylic and uses a steel rule die. https://milwaukeesrd.com/
    My understand is that texas custom dies steel and sharpens it into a knife. http://www.usacuttingdie.com/die-examples.html

    Whats the advantage of going with the steel rule which is a thinner blade vs the sharpened steel ones. Is there any advantage? Am I overthinking it? 


  16. 14 hours ago, OLESKIVER said:

    the only baklite mallet I know is one offered by tandy, on mallets, usually 10 oz. to 16 would be your average weight, or used too any way. I guess your talking about using it for regular tooling, yes?  for other things, you might want to go to a heavier mallet, that would be personal choice or maybe you are not getting the effect you are wanting. I use a rawhide mallet I've had for 50 yrs. still works good. was thinking on getting me a couple of more in a little heavier weight. say, one in 16 oz. and one in 20 oz. from C.S.Osborne tools.you want something you can use for extended periods of time.so it won't fatigue your wrist or arm. hope this helps.

     

    Yeah I was thinking it was either a 10oz or the 16 oz mallet. Thanks!

×
×
  • Create New...