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About NewfoundlandLaw

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  • Location
    NL Canada
  • Interests
    Knife Making, Pen Making, IPSC, Leather Work and Motorcycles

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
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  1. Hey All I need help: I am starting to get used to making leather sheaths for my handmade knives. The Cobra Class 4 was a big learning curve but I can't imagine leather work without it now. My only issue are the tiny prints the presser feet leave on my leather. I've tried flattening them out with a bone tool, but they are still noticeable. I have a bunch of products like Mink Oil and Snow Seal, but I'm not sure how to buff the tiny imprints out completely. Here is my most recent project. I flattened the foot prints with a round bone tool, but still have some noticeable marks. It is a good example if the marks I am left with. (Black edges are airbrushed with an Iwata Eclipse.)
  2. I did the exact same thing. I have to say that I am 100% happy with both my Cobra Class 4 and TechSew 2750 Pro. Awesome machines backed by awesome companies.
  3. Being a Canadian who recently purchased a Cobra Class 4, that price seems reasonable. (Shipping, Custom's and the weak Canadian Dollar really adds up.) I envy Americans when it comes to these purchases.
  4. Hey All I got lucky today and scored a good working condition Bonis "Never Stop" Model complete with table and motor. To make it even better, I also got 2 great condition matching Bonis machines I can use for parts or use as well. (The "spares" also seem to be in good working order.) I also got a bunch of spare Bonis needles, thread, etc. Since I live in a very remote area with no local leather workers, this is an extremely lucky find. (Didn't think there was a Bonis machine for 1500 miles.) No idea how old it is. I've attached a picture of the working machine and one of the spare machines. My plan is to completely refresh the wooden work surface and sand/polish the stand frame. (Might get it professionally painted, but haven't decided yet.) I also plan on doing a thorough clean, polishing and lubricating of the machine and case. I ultimately want to use it for Seal Fur, but want to make a restoration project out of it first. Anyone ever try to bring one of these old machines back to new-ish condition? Any hints? Also, is there any way to date this machine?
  5. I think with regular oiling/maintenance my Cobra Class 4 or TechSew 2750 would easily out-live me. It's really cool to see machines made in this day and age built with such quality. I am a fan of new technology. I look at my Brother SE600, (cheap $500 machine which is extremely popular), and would love to have even 10% of its options on a new leather capable machine. Even a small selection of stitch patterns would be cool in a sub $5K machine. As for Bernina, they are a very high-end Swiss Company with an amazing reputation in the sewing world. They are the only fabric sewing machine company I know of with customer service on par with companies like Cobra, Cowboy or TechSew. Their machines are very pricey, but the build quality is stunning. The only thing I can liken it to is my Wife's AMG Merccedes in terms of overall engineering. While I do long for a more feature laden machine for under $5k, I've been truly amazed by the customer service offered by TechSew and Cobra. If I had to choose between high-tech features or stellar customer service, I'd pick customer service every time.
  6. Hey All As a newbie to leather working, I have purchased 2 new heavy duty leather machines in the past year. The first was a Cobra Class 4 and the second was a TechSew 2750 Pro. While I absolutely love the quality and bullet proof nature of these machines, I often use a Brother SE600 to attach edge strips to the top lip of my bags. (Usually simple binding edges.) Switching from the SE600 to one of my dedicated leather machines makes me feel like I've gone back in time 100 years. This gets even worse when I use my mother-in-laws Bernina 570QE with crazy options like digitally adjustable pressure controls. Do you guys/gals think heavy-duty compound walking foot machines will ever go "high-tech" with LCD screens, multi position programmable foot controllers and dozens of stitch options? I was originally hesitant with high-tech sewing machines, but after using the SE600 and the Bernina 570QE, I have to say that things like automatic stitch locking and thread cutting sure are nice
  7. We are keeping positive. Most of the Island is shut down as we have 15 foot + drifts everywhere. That being said, you can't kill a Newfies spirit so we will survive.
  8. Hey All Does anyone have any experience with the CraftTool Pro Rotary Cutting Machine from Tandy? I posted a pic of the model below. I want it to be able to cut single strips of 8-12oz Veg Tan, (cut single 3.0 - 4.5" strips), but I'm worried it might not be strong enough to handle 12oz Veg Tan. Given the machine is rated up to 10oz for cutting multiple straps at once, can it cut a single wider piece of 12oz? (It would only have 1 cut into 12 oz as opposed to 4 cuts into 10 oz.) Any info is appreciated as I live quite a ways away from a Tandy Store.
  9. I want to both make the oval shape and the inner tang slot simultaneously. If I can get the size of the oval right, it reduces the overall grinding required.
  10. Hey All I am a knife maker who has been making a lot of stacked Leather Handles lately. (I usually have loads of veg tan scraps so it kinda seems natural.) I am getting tired of cutting each oval piece by hand and then cutting a slot for the tang by hand. A simple mallet die or even a press die would do much better and be infinitely faster. Every knife needs 20-35 of these pieces, so the work really adds up Anyone know where I can get a die that will cut leather pieces to make stacked leather handles? For reference, this is what the the leather pieces should look like after they are cut:
  11. Thanks for the tip on the snap, never thought of that. I use a toothbrush to wipe the ash out of the engraving lines. As long as the leather is dry, it cleans up nicely. I've also noticed that if you adjust the laser duration and power just right, you get very little ash. I have 4 other wood designs and I'm working on one of my own. It will take a lot of trial and error, but I'm determined to get this right. PS: Thanks for noticing the mosaic pins. I like to set my work apart by using unique materials and paying unending attention to detail. Probably why I'm loving leather work (and this forum), so much. Thanks Everyone!
  12. Hey All So tonight I finished my first attempt at making wood patterned leather with a laser engraver. I used a GanGou laser I purchased on Amazon. It is fairly cheap, but with some fiddling, I now have it engraving like a champ. Here is a link to the machine: https://www.amazon.ca/engraving-machine-Engraver-Off-line-engraver/dp/B07QQ2N7C8 I simply burned a 5.5" square section with the pattern, and cut my leather from there. This section gave me enough to make 2 sheaths for knives I recently made I burned the wood grain a bit deep, (about 0.75mm), to give it a little more depth and texture. I've also used it to burn my Custom Knife makers mark on my sheaths, and it has turned out beautifully. Overall, I'm very happy with this little machine.
  13. When I bent the needle I messed up the smooth feed dog and put a small burr on my timing hook. Timing was ok, but during the conversation with Cobra, I reduced my lower bobbin tension. So, not only did I get the problem fixed, I got my machine better dialled in for sheath making. WIN WIN!
  14. After talking to Cobra directly, I not only have the issue fixed, but my machine now makes better stitches than ever before! Gotta say, blown away by their awesome service!
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