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Rylando

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About Rylando

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    Rylando.com

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  • Location
    Houston TX
  • Interests
    The production side of things

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  • Interested in learning about
    Fabrication
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  1. Thanks for your advice! I can totally can see how beneficial the suction would be. Is it practical to try and attach a vacuum to it myself? Leaning towards the Cobra NP-4 right now as the table is on casters and half the size of a standard sewing machine table, and floorspace is an issue in my workshop at the moment. I got prices on the Campbell Randall skivers some time ago and while they're only an hour away from me, they are too expensive for my small operation at this point. Although I'm sure it's 100% worth it and I'll spring for one eventually.
  2. I am looking at getting a tabletop skiver and I'm confused if there's any difference between all of these brands. All of the machines looks identical to me, but with different stickers and paint jobs. My local sewing machine shop can get a Consew DCS-S4 and the Highlead YXP-18 machines for around the same price of the Cobra NP4 (before shipping) and I'm wondering if there's any mechanical difference between these machines. I'm leaning towards the Consew as I can get it locally, but does the Cobra come with better add ons or some such? Also I saw Techsew makes another skiving machine. Confused on which to get!
  3. Ah hah! I'm just a major dork then. I thought for whatever reason that 135x17 was the size of needle my machine took. I would've sworn these were marketed as leather needles when I bought them, but apparently not! Just as I thought I had this whole leather sewing thing down... lol. Just got home from the local sewing supply shop and they explained it to me, and hooked me up with some diamond and triangle needles, as those were all they had for leather. With diamonds the blow out is waaaay less! Thanks guys! I appreciate the help.
  4. I am using a Highlead GC0618-1sc, and when sewing a clutch up that's gator embossed cowhide, I noticed some big holes punched on the bottom side of my leather. It really looks ugly to me. How can I fix this? From looking it up on this forum, it seems to be a needle issue? I tried to find Schmetz S type needles but they appear to not exist anymore, or I am looking in the wrong place. Any help is appreciated Attached are photos of the holes and the needles I am using.
  5. Just as an aside, if you're looking for cheap leather to practice on, Springfield Leather Company sells $20 and $30 a SIDE ( half the cow ) oil tanned (chrome tan) good quality leather in that 4-5oz range. It's random brown colors but I really like it for trying new designs and ideas with before I move to a veg-tan. If you stick with chrome tan, in my experience, the best way to finish the edges is to cut everything a little big and trim it with one final cut once it's sewn or glued together well, that gives really clean edges and you can ditch sanding. Could also use that method with edge-paint, just don't bevel the edges. I wouldn't bevel the edges of oil-tan leather, I'd just focus on clean cuts. But that may just be my personal taste in chrome-tanned goods. But if you do decide to bevel, use Tokonole to burnish the edges. Otherwise it looks alot better than my first attempt!
  6. Looks great! As an archer I'm jealous!
  7. Pint and Quart sized Angelus dyes! I really like your $30 oil tan sides, they're great.
  8. Thanks everyone for the advice! I went with the Sailrite swing away binding attachment, and with a left/right toe it works great. I initially tried it with just a left toe foot, don't do that! lol. Using my standard needle plate. Works great for my exclusively straight runs on some light canvas/leather tote bags.
  9. Can you link to what you're talking about? Where would I purchase those. I can't seem to find raised dogs or raised needle plates in my searching.
  10. I am looking to sew binding onto canvas bags with my Highlead GC0618-1SC, and have no prior experience with binding. I've found these two binders online and am wondering what is the difference? I can't seem to find any information on this on the forum except that the Juki 1541 style machines may require a custom needle plate for this purpose, to get the binding closer to the needle? https://www.sailrite.com/Binder-1-Swing-Bracket?gclid=CjwKCAiAnIT9BRAmEiwANaoE1V8bsgJ6vdNDQKyZ_khzx5-GkQ0ShXo3301kp57xmFYk4FIQDIc2lxoC_FUQAvD_BwE and http://www.maquinsalsewingmachines.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=112 I understand the $150 one comes with feet, and a needle plate, but is the needle plate conversion needed for this purpose or would the sailrite swing away one work just as well?
  11. Ah! Maybe that was my problem. Will go bigger needle and try again soon. I should know better than to trust the first result for me on google https://www.servicethread.com/blog/industrial-sewing-thread-needle-sizes
  12. Forgot to mention: The above pictures are with #138 thread and a size 21 needle. However, I get just fine results with #69 thread and a size 18 needle.
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