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Arturomex

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About Arturomex

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    Male
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    Western Canada, Mexico, Japan
  • Interests
    Making small leather goods, bags and tack.

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  • Interested in learning about
    Machine sewing and other aspects of leather work.
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  1. And where, exactly, are the lines showing up on the skived area?
  2. Dwight pretty summed it up for me. I'm also in the Resolene 1:1 camp except I apply it with an airbrush. I started doing that to avoid pulling antique out and it didn't take me long to start appreciating the quality of the finish I was getting on all my veg tan, antiqued or not. One of the things I appreciate about acrylic finishes like Resolene is having the ability to control the gloss of the finish. I've found I can get anything from a nice, mellow luster to squint your eyes shiny by increasing the number of coats or by not thinning. I'm not a fan of the super high gloss look. I think it looks cheap and plasticky and it's prone to cracking but there's a sweet spot just below that level that I think looks especially good on black. I find two or three coats cut 1:1 gives me the low key luster I want for most of my stuff and, as others have observed, there's never been a problem with dye rubbing off. The water clean up is just a nice bonus. Regards, Arturo
  3. Thanks for the replies. I have an opportunity to buy some of this at a really good price and I think I'll give it a test drive. Regards, Arturo
  4. I'm wondering if anyone has recently used and can comment of Chahin veg tan tooling leather. I have looked at other threads here on the Forum about this brand and got some good information. Just hoping to hear from people with more recent experience. I thank you in advance for your attention. Arturo
  5. You might want to look at the Weaver Master Tools Cub machine as well.
  6. I think Don is on the mark here. I've already got the measuring tape out. LOL Regards, Arturo
  7. That link doesn't, anymore. I'm pretty sure there are a lot of people here on the forum who have pieces they've treated that are ten years old. Anybody have anything that old they could comment on? And how they finished it? I'm also going to give that a try. Look forward to your future input on this, Matt. Chuck, I'm curious about what kinds of wood you're using this on? It'd be a ripper on oak. Regards, Arturo
  8. Tandy has their Craftool Hand Border Tool: https://tandyleather.com/products/craftool-hand-border-tool?_pos=3&_sid=896dd2549&_ss=r It's not bad but you have to watch your depth. Barry King has a few options that work in swivel knives: http://www.barrykingtools.com/swivelknives.htm These work well. For about $15 each, inexpensive Tandy swivel knives dedicated to each blade size aren't a bad investment and saves fiddling around changing blades out each time you want to change sizes. Going that route brings the cost up to about $45 per blade which I don't think is that bad for that kind of tool. And, of course, there's always the swivel knife itself. Regards, Arturo
  9. All good advice. Are you sure your thread is feeding off the bobbin correctly? In the right direction? And it wouldn't hurt to make sure the hook is timed correctly to meet the scarf. Regards, Arturo
  10. Techsew also has a 1341 clone listed as the 4800. I have one and I'm very pleased with it. They also have some videos on Youtube about this machine worth watching. The 1341 clone is a little beefier than the lighter machines and has some features like an on-board bobbin winder and an adjustable presser foot climbing mechanism. If you really don't see yourself going higher than 138 thread you might also want to check the Cobra Class 26,, CB341 and Techsew 2750. Not hard to compare specs on these machines. Regards, Arturo
  11. Glad to hear it. Techsew has some good videos on Youtube on the 4800. Regards, Arturo
  12. I have these: https://leathercrafttools.com/item/11813/ in sizes 24, 36, 42 and 48mm. I spent a few hours resetting the bevel and working up the edges on each of them. It was worth the time. The handles come unfinished and I put three coats of clear, water base Varathane on each of them, sanding lightly between coats, before I started working on the blades. I'm not sure what the initial bevel was on them but I now have all of them at about 18~19 degrees which is just about what it takes to keep the handle off the strop. The 24 and 36mm knives came set perpendicular to the handle. The 42 and 48 mm blades were a little off and I corrected that as well as part of the sharpening process. They take an very sharp edge and will stay that way for quite a while if stropped regularly. These are my "go to" knives these days and it's a joy to use them. At $26 ~ $36 each, they're a bargain. Another case of not needing to spend a lot of money to get a good quailty tool. Regards, Arturo
  13. Hi, I have a 4800 Pro and I'm very happy with it. For the most part I'm sewing #207 on top and #138 on the bobbin with it but I've gone #277 on top and #207 on the bottom on occasion. This machine will sew that #207 top/#138 bottom all day long and I'm sure it would do the same with #207 top and bottom but there's not a lot of room for #207 thread on that M size bobbin. The machine arrived sewn off with #69 and while I haven't done much with that thread size I've done some work with #92 thread and was happy. Realistically, #207 is about as high as I'd want to go for regular use on this machine. If I was going to do a lot of work with #277 thread I'd be looking at moving up to a 441 clone. My dealings with Techsew have been nice and smooth. I also bought a SK-4 bell skiver from them. I can't speak to the "American experience" as I bought and shipped the machines in Canada but there's a fellow on the forums here under the name of "veryoldpilot" in, I believe, Florida who just got a 4800. Hopefully he'll see your post and respond with more information. All in all, I'm very happy with the machine and Techsew. Regards, Arturo
  14. No English translation or sub titles on this but none really needed. Some crazy stuff going on with skiving machines. Quite educational. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCShXi3rXPM Regards, Arturo
  15. I don't know what's going on with this. I was hoping someone who did know might reply and educate all of us. Somebody? Please? I have the same experience with some veg tan that's sold as coming from a European tannery. It's not attributed to any specific country. It cuts, tools and stamps very nicely. I miss the darker bronze as a reference but a small light mounted at a low angle across the area I'm working on gives me enough contrast to see where I've been and where I'm going. I'm antiquing the stuff I make with this leather and things show up just as desired when finished. One of my complaints with the Tandy leather is that if I put water on the edges for slicking, the "color" in the leather will sometimes run a little off the edge and onto the face of the leather. Not a problem if I'm going to dye dark. Not so good if I'm looking for a lighter color. It also creates a mottled effect on the edge that precludes leaving a homogeneous natural edge finish. This doesn't happen with the type of leather we're asking about and I appreciate that. I have found that if the edge I'm working on is short enough to be manageable, tilting the Tandy leather at a fairly steep angle when applying water for slicking helps alleviate the problem of color running. The European stuff I'm using takes dye (Fiebing's Pro) very well and the edges finish nicely. I like Hermann Oak for tooling/stamping but availability and price can be an issue at times. When I can't get HO I'm quite happy to use the European veg tan . It's a nice, clean leather that holds a crisp impression and finishes well. (Sounds like damn wine review. LOL) I'd like to know more about where it comes from. And I'd still like to know why it doesn't bronze up. Or, why other veg tans do. Regards, Arturo
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