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  1. An update to this. It was the leather, not the glue. the flesh side is just too slick and smooth on this leather. I had a sample delivered and the skin side was similar to the flesh side on my existing leather. So I grabbed some sandpaper, roughed it up a bit, and jobs a good un every day is a learning day.
  2. Thanks Matt. Perhaps I did let it go too far over. It was touch dry as per the tins instructions. I'll have another go and just wait for it to become tacky. It's all a bit new to me. So far all my work has had full stitching so the glue has not been too important. Unfortunately, I'm not a fan of stitched watch straps and prefer ones with 2 stitches at the spring bars, and a V at the tip of the tail end.
  3. It does have oils in it, and I am indeed doing flesh to flesh.
  4. I didn't hammer, but I got a can of coke and gave it a good roll. After 24 hours it just pulled apart like it was prit stick. Both sides were touch dry. I've done another couple of strips using the B&Q stuff to see how that comes out.
  5. Thanks guys. Just got a tin of evo-stik impact, and it's pretty naff. I'll have a look at those two.
  6. I've searched, and a number of brands have come up be it barge, weldwood, master etc. But to hell if I can find anywhere in the UK that sells the stuff. I'm in need of a glue that'll near permanently hold two bits of leather together, such as a watch strap that doesn't have stitching along its length. What are you guys using? I'm after something economical in larger quantities (e.g 500ml tins), rather than a tube of UHU or superglue etc.
  7. Does anyone know if https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/110-glue-amp-brush/500-aqualim-aquilim-315-200g/ is the same as Renia aquilim? Finding a strong cement type glue in the UK seems tricky. No barge, no weldwood. Just picked up some evostick impact and that doesn't seem to do much.
  8. Well I figured I'd keep it basic, and remove the inner layer that prompted this thread. I know that I should have just stitched all of the way around, but was just playing about really. Learnt a few things in the process, but I still ended up with a usable item. I'm quite pleased with my stitching for a first attempt. Thanks for the input though, I might be trial and error in my approach, but its still nice to be able to see what other people think is right. Don't have my tokenol yet, so just used some homemade waterproofing wax on the edges (beeswax, terpentine, boiled linseed oil)
  9. Thanks for the replies. I have considered packs and templates, but I'm one of those foolish and frustrating people that just likes to jump in and see what is what. The template I made up works well when the pieces are put together. Folding it up though resulted in observing the issue, and hence the thread. Easy enough to just trim a small amount off the inner pannel (and take a measurement) and then fold again and see what is what. I was just wondering about stretch given what some youtube videos I've watched have talked about. Seems it is not worth considering, and plan without it as a variable. I'm not going to be defeated though. I'm a learn from mistakes kind of guy. Interestingly, given the advice from you guys, the wallets builds that I've watched on youtube, they've all resulted in perfectly flat end products, and the makers make no attempt to actually fold them up. The 2 main panels were identical in size. Peculiar. Text from Tandy, glue should arrive tomorrow, so I can continue to experiment and have a bit of fun. That's what I'm doing it for after all
  10. In the UK, or at least from the supplier I used, it is not sold by weight but by thickness. In this case, 1.5mm, so I guess 4oz? Maybe 5. I've a pair of additional panels for cards, but the question is focused on a pair of matching 1.5mm panels glued and stitched back to back and then folded in half.
  11. Thanks. Yes, it is certainly possible to cut the inner shorter, but then the flipside is that it will not completely open without the same potential for pull/separation. Why I mentioned chromium as a possible method of alleviating this (I've never used leather before, but have read that it is more stretchy than the veg tan I currently have). The circumference of the inner and outer is simple maths at the end of the day, but all a learning process and educational. Only day 1 but enjoying spotting the little things
  12. I had a search, but tbh I suck with search terms.. sorry. So other than my tokonole and glue, everything else has arrived. So I sat down and took a crash course in illustrator. My thoughts relate to this bit Having now cut out all of the panels and such for the wallet, I'm sat thinking if there is a cut-off in thickness when folding the thing in half. Is there a certain thickness where the outer layer will not stretch and allow it to fold in half easily without the inner layer attempting to seperate and kink. I hope you can get what I'm trying to say. Imagine a stack of currency. Fold it in half and the ends of the ones in the middle will stick out further than the ones on the outside. https://c8.alamy.com/comp/P71Y76/fat-stack-of-cash-folded-in-half-with-rubber-band-isolated-on-white-P71Y76.jpg Or is this where you'd want to be using something like chromium instead of veg tan?
  13. Looks great. Not available in the UK (knives are scary..) but just this afternoon I was considering how appropriate my own small kiridashi would be for leatherwork. It proved fantastic at slicing, but not so much for skiving. Might have to redo the blade profile
  14. Funnily, for whatever technical reason, Google searches give me Abbeys prices, but upon going to their website it is then all nudge nudge wink wink. I've got most of the tools lined up, just a case of hitting buy. The majority of this is being funded through sale if a NV scope, just waiting on ebay to release the funds. Gah! I'll certainly phone around regarding leather. There is a wholesaler a mile or two down the road in cheddar that I plan to visit, even if just to get an idea as to what I can do with the various thicknesses. I like the idea of 1.5mm from metropolitan, but given that 3mm is the same price, I'd expect to be provided the splits as well; something to practice on. Most of the stuff is a case of just clicking buy and seeing if it works for me. And yes, I've dozens of bars of beeswax in a draw already for various projects. I considered saving some money and just buying some NFO, but seems like at the end of the day, tokonole is just a better product.
  15. Hey again zulu, seems w're cross posting. I've not used any thread, needles, nada, so it'll all be a learning curve, and hey, what works for some doesn't work for others. I was able to get the ritza thread for £6 per 25m spool. I tend to like my watch straps with no linear stitching, and just 2 heavy duty stitches each side of the loops. can always pick up some 0.6mm if the 0.8 is ungainly. I tend to be outdoorsy oriented, so rugged and dependable is more my kind of thing. As per the other thread, thanks for the links. I didn't know that Identify were agents for Tandy, but worth bearing in mind. While the shipping for my order from Tandy was £12 for 2 day air, the items are also cheaper, for instance eco-weld is £9.70 compared to £13.50. So guess it depends on the amount of stuff I'm placing an order for. I read about the needle sizes in a thread somewhere, so made sure to get 002 and 004 from jjneedles. Thanks again for the advice.
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