hughlle
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Posts posted by hughlle
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416 hours ago, Matt S said:Normal red tin Evo stik works well, but some has clearly been sitting in inventory too long. I found that it's more effective if thinned a little, and not noticed much improvement from the 528 in the green tins.
I now use Abbey's 441, proper stuff -- cheaper and more effective than Evo, it comes the right consistency, wets the leather better than Evo, dries in a few minutes and it's still got toluene in it. It works well on greasy/waxy/oily leather but I would never rely on it without stitching or riveting.
When I have issues with contact cement not sticking properly it's usually because I've let it dry too far before pressing. It can be reactivated with heart, but I find potting on a second coat is better. Don't wait till it's completely dry before pressing the two pieces together, I find best results when it's still a little tacky.
Thanks Matt. Perhaps I did let it go too far over. It was touch dry as per the tins instructions. I'll have another go and just wait for it to become tacky. It's all a bit new to me. So far all my work has had full stitching so the glue has not been too important.
Unfortunately, I'm not a fan of stitched watch straps and prefer ones with 2 stitches at the spring bars, and a V at the tip of the tail end.
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1 hour ago, fredk said:a, has your leather any oils on it?
b.are you gluing the flesh side or the grain side? the grain side needs roughing up before sticking or it won't stick very well.
c. I used to use Evo until it became impossible to buy in N.I. for a while, then I switched to the B&Q and Screwfix glues
It does have oils in it, and I am indeed doing flesh to flesh.
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1 hour ago, chrisash said:Strange are you following directions and letting both sides touch dry before joining and hammer down after
I didn't hammer, but I got a can of coke and gave it a good roll. After 24 hours it just pulled apart like it was prit stick. Both sides were touch dry. I've done another couple of strips using the B&Q stuff to see how that comes out.
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Thanks guys. Just got a tin of evo-stik impact, and it's pretty naff. I'll have a look at those two.
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I've searched, and a number of brands have come up be it barge, weldwood, master etc. But to hell if I can find anywhere in the UK that sells the stuff.
I'm in need of a glue that'll near permanently hold two bits of leather together, such as a watch strap that doesn't have stitching along its length.
What are you guys using? I'm after something economical in larger quantities (e.g 500ml tins), rather than a tube of UHU or superglue etc.
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Does anyone know if
https://www.leatherhouse.eu/products/110-glue-amp-brush/500-aqualim-aquilim-315-200g/
is the same as Renia aquilim? Finding a strong cement type glue in the UK seems tricky. No barge, no weldwood. Just picked up some evostick impact and that doesn't seem to do much.
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Well I figured I'd keep it basic, and remove the inner layer that prompted this thread. I know that I should have just stitched all of the way around, but was just playing about really. Learnt a few things in the process, but I still ended up with a usable item. I'm quite pleased with my stitching for a first attempt. Thanks for the input though, I might be trial and error in my approach, but its still nice to be able to see what other people think is right.
Don't have my tokenol yet, so just used some homemade waterproofing wax on the edges (beeswax, terpentine, boiled linseed oil)
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Thanks for the replies. I have considered packs and templates, but I'm one of those foolish and frustrating people that just likes to jump in and see what is what. The template I made up works well when the pieces are put together. Folding it up though resulted in observing the issue, and hence the thread. Easy enough to just trim a small amount off the inner pannel (and take a measurement) and then fold again and see what is what. I was just wondering about stretch given what some youtube videos I've watched have talked about. Seems it is not worth considering, and plan without it as a variable. I'm not going to be defeated though. I'm a learn from mistakes kind of guy.
Interestingly, given the advice from you guys, the wallets builds that I've watched on youtube, they've all resulted in perfectly flat end products, and the makers make no attempt to actually fold them up. The 2 main panels were identical in size. Peculiar.
Text from Tandy, glue should arrive tomorrow, so I can continue to experiment and have a bit of fun. That's what I'm doing it for after all
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8 minutes ago, Hardrada said:What's the weight of your leather and how many panels are you using that need to fold? If you're in the 1.5 oz range, it'll fold OK, as leather stretches to a point. Another way wallet makers deal with this potential problem is by placing all the extra panels to one side and leaving only one layer of leather in the centre/folding area.
Yes, chrome tanned is more supple but it's a PITA to skive, and an even greater PITA to burnish. That's why I don't like using it.
In the UK, or at least from the supplier I used, it is not sold by weight but by thickness. In this case, 1.5mm, so I guess 4oz? Maybe 5. I've a pair of additional panels for cards, but the question is focused on a pair of matching 1.5mm panels glued and stitched back to back and then folded in half.
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12 minutes ago, Hardrada said:The way I sussed that out was by using two scraps of the leather I'd use, put them back to back, clamp one end, and fold through the middle, then measure the amount that protrudes from the inner panel beyond the edge of the outer one: that would be by how much I must shorten the inner panel in my template. This distance will vary with different leathers or weights, so I'd keep notes.
Thanks. Yes, it is certainly possible to cut the inner shorter, but then the flipside is that it will not completely open without the same potential for pull/separation. Why I mentioned chromium as a possible method of alleviating this (I've never used leather before, but have read that it is more stretchy than the veg tan I currently have). The circumference of the inner and outer is simple maths at the end of the day, but all a learning process and educational. Only day 1 but enjoying spotting the little things
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I had a search, but tbh I suck with search terms.. sorry.
So other than my tokonole and glue, everything else has arrived. So I sat down and took a crash course in illustrator. My thoughts relate to this bit
Having now cut out all of the panels and such for the wallet, I'm sat thinking if there is a cut-off in thickness when folding the thing in half. Is there a certain thickness where the outer layer will not stretch and allow it to fold in half easily without the inner layer attempting to seperate and kink. I hope you can get what I'm trying to say. Imagine a stack of currency. Fold it in half and the ends of the ones in the middle will stick out further than the ones on the outside.
Or is this where you'd want to be using something like chromium instead of veg tan?
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Looks great. Not available in the UK (knives are scary..) but just this afternoon I was considering how appropriate my own small kiridashi would be for leatherwork. It proved fantastic at slicing, but not so much for skiving. Might have to redo the blade profile
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Funnily, for whatever technical reason, Google searches give me Abbeys prices, but upon going to their website it is then all nudge nudge wink wink.
I've got most of the tools lined up, just a case of hitting buy. The majority of this is being funded through sale if a NV scope, just waiting on ebay to release the funds. Gah!
I'll certainly phone around regarding leather. There is a wholesaler a mile or two down the road in cheddar that I plan to visit, even if just to get an idea as to what I can do with the various thicknesses. I like the idea of 1.5mm from metropolitan, but given that 3mm is the same price, I'd expect to be provided the splits as well; something to practice on.
Most of the stuff is a case of just clicking buy and seeing if it works for me.
And yes, I've dozens of bars of beeswax in a draw already for various projects. I considered saving some money and just buying some NFO, but seems like at the end of the day, tokonole is just a better product.
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2 minutes ago, zuludog said:Hello Hughlle, I think I've seen you before, on another Section!
I've never made any watch straps, and I'm willing to be corrected, but still, here are some comments - As Tugadude said, it depends on whether you want a chunky look, or a smaller scale pattern of sewing
For chunky, use Craftool stitching chisels - black finish ; either a set as you've indicated, or you can buy them individually...........John James saddler's harness needles, JJ product code L3912 size 002; ...........and 0,6mm thread. This combination is also widely used for other leatherwork, like pouches, sheaths, belts
For something smaller scale/finer, consider Craftool Pro chisels - stainless steel finish; ..............JJ needles L3912 size 004..........thinner thread, about 0,4mm
If you buy Tandy items online they are shipped from USA, but www.identityleathercraft.com is an agent in UK for Tandy, and sells the items mentioned. They are pleasant & helpful if you phone for advice
Ritza/Tiger thread is popular, but I don't like the way it feels/handles. There is also the problem that you can usually only buy it in large reels, eg 0,6mm is 1,000m and about £60
I have used these threads, and I like them both. Both are available in various diameters; shorter reels, but still plenty to try, about £8
YUE FUNG from www.blackmountainsleather.com
AMY ROKE from www.artisanleather.co.uk. They also sell JJ needles
For a short time you can hit stitching chisels with a steel hammer, but this will soon damage them. You need a soft mallet, like hide, wood, or nylon
Be careful when ordering JJ needles, as their sizing system is a bit confusing. You want size 002 or 004, and not size 2/0 or 4/0, which are too big
Hey again zulu, seems w're cross posting.
I've not used any thread, needles, nada, so it'll all be a learning curve, and hey, what works for some doesn't work for others. I was able to get the ritza thread for £6 per 25m spool. I tend to like my watch straps with no linear stitching, and just 2 heavy duty stitches each side of the loops. can always pick up some 0.6mm if the 0.8 is ungainly. I tend to be outdoorsy oriented, so rugged and dependable is more my kind of thing.
As per the other thread, thanks for the links. I didn't know that Identify were agents for Tandy, but worth bearing in mind. While the shipping for my order from Tandy was £12 for 2 day air, the items are also cheaper, for instance eco-weld is £9.70 compared to £13.50. So guess it depends on the amount of stuff I'm placing an order for.
I read about the needle sizes in a thread somewhere, so made sure to get 002 and 004 from jjneedles.
Thanks again for the advice.
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On 12/10/2019 at 10:33 PM, zuludog said:Here are some British suppliers of leathercraft tools, in no particular order -
Come back to us when you've got a shopping list, and we'll give you our opinions
Hey Zuludog. Thanks for the suggestions. Abbey looked good, but seemed like you needed to be a member of the trade to shop from them. Or do you just make it all up on the regustration form? :D
Having watched a bunch of youtube videos and looked at what I could squeexe out of my budget, I've put a few shopping lists together at different sites, and placed a few orders. Not the cheapest, but not the most expensive. I'd rather not buy cheap and buy twice. So currently ordered and awaiting delivery are
cheap craft knife and spare blades
No 4 and 2 John James needles
0.8mm Rizta 25 tiger in amber glow
Ansio A1 self-healing cutting board
So beyond this I've got to chose/pay for:
Stitching pony of some kind
Tokonole
scratch awl
edge burnisher
mallet
hole punch for watch straps etc
edge dye
Chose between stanle knife or a disc cutter
leather. I'm thinking about skipping dying for now, and just getting something pre-dyed like This. I'm thinking 1.5mm is about right for my current needs, with 2.5-3 should I try making some shuolder bags etc.
Enough kit that it's a tad daunting!
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Thanks Tugadude,
I did some searching and ended up with some no 2 and no 4 John James needles. Trial and error it shall be. Just trying to avoid the error part of that formula due to the significant impact my tuition fees are having on my income. I'll give that channel a go in a bit.
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Merry Christmas all.
Finally getting around to sorting some stuff out. My initial aim is to make up a few watch straps, a pouch for a couple of pens, and a simple card wallet.
I'm struggling to work out just what tools I should get. That is to say, I know the type of tools I need, but not which brand, or size. For instance, needle and thread. Having only the internet as a reference, I'm struggling to visualise whether I would be wanting 0.5mm, or 0.8mm. Or which brand (for instance I've seen thread going from £1 a spool to £20 a spool). I had originaly been thinking of buying this hole punch set https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/diamond-hole-chisel-set but then don't know if there is a certain size needle or thread that is most appropriate for it.
Bit of a minefield
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1 hour ago, Tugadude said:If you have a particular leather whose backside is comfortable against the skin, then go ahead and skive away. Personally, I've made them both ways and I think they each have their strengths. If you aren't going to stitch all the way down the sides, then a single, solid piece is obviously better because otherwise you have to rely 100% on adhesive and I wouldn't. I'm not in any way saying that RockyAussie's method is not good, not in the least. It is just that my expertise at gluing is lacking and I couldn't count on the type of results he gets. His work is stellar.
My favourite straps have 2 stitches at the lug end, and a V stitch at the tail end. I don't like straps with stitching all the way around. My question is more about whether it is easier or more effective to have a single piece of leather, and thin it out and fold over the spring bar and then, or to have two identical pieces of leather, and have one longer than the other which is then wrapped over the spring bar. As a watch enthusiast, both would seem to have their place. I'm now curious as to what leather folk think about it. From a logical point of view, the less stitches and less adhesive the better. But perhaps that requires greater levels of skill.
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Cheers for the replies. I'm not a fan of exotic leather, or textured etc. Nothing but a nice plain brown strap.
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Cheers. There will certainly be more local sources, however knowing nothing, I won't know if I'm buying junk. With Tandy, it might not be the best but its a known entity, I feel that I can buy with confidence. I've now added leather memo pad folio to the list.
All just dreams for now though. Life is getting rather complicated.
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Just a thought from a less than newbie.
Is there a specific reason you'd make a strap from two pieces glued back to back, as opposed to a single piece of thicker leather that you thin out at the ends in order to loop over for the spring bar and clasp.
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Thanks guys. There is certainly a lot of material and resources available. I should have no excuse for cocking up!
From the sounds of it one of my closest friends out in Nevada will be starting off at the same time as me, so it'll be nice to be able to bounce experiences back and forth and hopefully help guide each other. Only difference is he is able to drop into tandy and k ow exactly what type of leather he is buying given the task at hand, whil my location means I'm at the mercy of the internet and buying unseen
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Just saying hello. I'm Hugh from the UK (North Somerset).
No prior experience with leather, but love it as a material. I don't own any hide, and at yet don't own any tools. I was recently looking at a nice pouch for a couple of kaweco sport pens, and realised why not just buy up some bits and pieces and have a crack at it myself. Due to finances, I won't be able to pick up any kit for a few months (minimum wage + law school..) but I've already downloaded a good few books by the likes of Stohlman to peruse when I've a bit of spare time over the winter.
Current aims are simply a nice pouch to fit my two pens, and then given I collect watches, learn how to make my own straps rather than spend £40-100 per strap. Later down the line I'd like to think about knife sheaths and a satchel.
Thanks for having me.
UK contact cement options
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An update to this. It was the leather, not the glue. the flesh side is just too slick and smooth on this leather. I had a sample delivered and the skin side was similar to the flesh side on my existing leather. So I grabbed some sandpaper, roughed it up a bit, and jobs a good un
every day is a learning day.