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Scootch

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About Scootch

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  • Location
    Mississippi

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    beginner
  • Interested in learning about
    tooling/carving/construction methods
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  1. I carry a pancake trapper sheeth, that I dyed black, for about the last year. It still transfers black to any belt I put it on after about 4 wearings. I've started playing with air brushing some. You can get good deep dyeing with much less dye by spraying. Maybe less dye would help if you try it again. Scootch
  2. As long as the barrel rotates freely and you have a good quality blade that will keep an edge, I'm not sure you'll see much difference. You might try a knife with a different size barrel, saddle or one with more adjustment. I have 2 Bks and a Clay Miller. I keep different type blade in each one. Scootch
  3. I think the best way to have a good edge is to have nice clean cuts with minimal trimming. I don't have good luck sanding before glueing due to the flesh side getting soft and leaving a pithy look to the seam after finishing. Use a good leather, not one that gives a lot of fuzzy edges when sanding. For example, choose welt material from the butt instead of the neck or belly area. With good leather and good cutting a nice edge can be achieved by burnishing with only water. If you're dyeing your edges make sure whatever edge enhancing stuff your using will accept dye. Sometimes after I glue and trim I'll wet the edge and let it get dry and hard before sanding. For thick edges use a sharp beveler in the size 3 or 4 range. That will give a good round edge and cut down on the amount of sanding needed. If choosing to use any advice make sure to practice on scrap first!
  4. This is what I do as well. I usually make my first and last hole with a round awl. I also believe a stitch groover weakens the leather a bit but a knife sheath isn't going to see hard enough use to know the difference and I find it easier to keep the pricking irons in line with a groove than with a crease. Also when I pull my stitches tight I pull them at the angle I want them to go. It seems to help. Scootch
  5. Andrew custom leather uses garment leather for his shoulder harnesses and veg for the holsters. His shoulder harness is suppose to be a good one. His design doesn't require belt loops either. You can look it up on hank strange videos. He has a how its made video of the monarch shoulder holster.
  6. Looks to me like you were using a two prong pricking iron and got two strikes a little off. Are you creasing you're stitch line or grooving? I find it easier to keep things straight with a groove. Scootch
  7. The only single ply belts I've made have been with 13oz hermon oak skirting. I've really been wanting to buy one of these double butts... https://buyleatheronline.com/en/home/73-veg-tanned-double-butts.html#/8-color-beige_natural/38-average_size_of_the_whole_piece-18_m_20_sq_ft_22_yd/56-thickness-4_mm/74-grade_quality-best_1_grade/161-size-whole_piece Scootch
  8. Thanks for the replies. I finally finished up. The first is of the photo type. It's embarrassing how bad I missed the stitch line. I made it as a flat back thinking it might wear better but changed my mind on the second one. The buyers primary interest was to be comfortable while seated in a vehicle and to not poke him in the gut too bad so I tried to keep the size minimal and used a single loop. The holster is canted somewhere around 63 degrees. The proto type was made from the shoulder neck area and the final holster was made from the butt. It was awful tight. I probably spent two hours stretching the holster enough to get the gun and belt loop to be useable. I made the welt minimal width to keep the holster size down but it broke a needle on my boss so I ended up hand sewing the welt. The reinforcement also wrinkled due to having to bend the holster for sewing. All and all I'm pretty satisfied with how it turned out. The holster shrunk causing the pistol to ride about 1/8" shallower in the holster than I intended. I took the stitch line from tracing the moulding shape from the photo type. I learned a lot on this one!
  9. I've been working on a cross draw holster for a SW 19. This is the first double action revolver holster I've made. The pocket turned out a little too big and the stitch line was embarrassingly off but the overall intent of the holster was good, cross draw to be used from a seated position. My second pattern is tweaked and will be much better. I've given the holster to my customer to we are around for a while to make sure the fit is good and the belt angle is going to work out. So far so good. What I'm looking for are some photos of Double action molded revolver holsters to see how other folks are running the stitch line. On my second go around I'm going to add a welt. I'm also a little concerned about the sight channel coming out as well on the second one since the over all pocket will be smaller. Thanks, Scott
  10. This is a Herman Oak belt blank and was cased with a damp paper towel. This would show burnish if your finger nail drug across it on accident.
  11. This is an old pice of Tandy double shoulder. It was cased with a damp paper towel. This amount of burnish is par for the course with this shoulder.
  12. That looks nice. Someone mentioned the DG youtube video. His method is what I use. Maybe its the exposure of your camera but your leather looks to be really light in overall color, I think the antique would look better if the leather was darkened by oiling before antiquing. On the other hand, I basket stamped a belt with intentions of antiquing but the Herman oak burnished so nicely the color contrast was great so I just died the edges and applied tan kote and left it at that. I've never air brushed tan kote but a few weeks ago I airbrushed a holster with 5050 Resoline and water, for the first time, and was very pleased with how it turned out. I was using a painters airbrush at 35 psi with the large needle and cone. It applied very thin and even. Scootch
  13. Also make sure your resist isn't put on too thick as to fill up the fine lines. I haven't tried it but you can also thing your antique with tan kote. That might thin it enough to settle in the finer details. Top coating with tan kote will always remove some antiquing. I've always used tan kotw as my resist but plan on trying resoline soon. Scootch
  14. I talked with him on the phone yesterday for a little while about his DVD's. He's an extremely nice fellow and you can tell he enjoys sharing his ideas on floral carving and tolling. Scootch
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