AlamoJoe2002

Thanks all. I'll look into the videos. Please keep the ideas coming. By the way can I get an opinion on the quality of the W&C standard side skirting? The color is inconsistent...is this normal? JOE

I hope this inquiry finds you well. I am focused on making belts from this side of 12-14 ounce, W&C, Chestnut Skirting. It is their standard grading which was 26 sf x $9.42/sf + shipping. Under 2 weeks to arrive after placing order over the phone. I am new and have been working with chrome tan from salvaged couches. The dye isn't consistent across the entire side. I also see a lot of stretch marks. I don't know what I'm looking at as this is my 1st side and I'd like your thoughts on the material. what I'm After seeking advice for members of our forum I made a decision to start making belts. I have an Osborne draw gauge and clone 6" pull thru skiver. I have snaps and chicago screws. I need to order 1.5 inch and 1.25 inch buckles for mens belts. I don't know what women are generally looking for in bet sizes. Here is a pic of the hide taken on a ladder with out my belt on...I put the 38 inch sized belt on the side for scale. I think the dogs were weirded out for a minute... So I can begin making full length strap cuts. But that would leave short strap scraps. I would like to know what is a good side cut process to get nice normal sized belts and save larger portions of the hide for future projects. Respectfully, JOE

Test. Working on resizing pics for this website.

Did you use orange edge paint? Or did you roll the orange bottom up and lay the field of black over the top?

FFJJDH, This post is several months old...however, I'm looking at W&C skirting for belts. Did you get a side of brown and turn out a black belt? JOE

I found a few construction drawings dated Nov 1950...which I inserted below...footnote citation/credit goes to Turner Saddlery for providing the details of the 1907 sling. I'm assuming skiving is done on one side only at the fold over for the buckle. It appears the skived side is the bottom inside shown on the right side of the edge view in the top detail. Does this sound correct? JOE

Yes Stephen1, that is the sling. Chuck123wapati, I'm still looking for the original specs. I asked the shooter if 13oz would work for him...he restated he wanted 1/4" thick leather. What is the typical oz leather you have seen on this 1907 sling? Now I'm concerned I may need to get the frogs made as the hardware may now be too short to hook to a thicker sling. Good info Gents! Keep it rolling! JOE

The client wanted to have a near authentic sling as possible. Also, I'm a beginner and not very fast at the hand stitching. I don't have a sewing machine. But, I will present the idea to the client and get feedback. Good glue should have no problems without stitching. I like the grain on both sides presentation! JOE

Hello from the Greater Philadelphia PA Area! I'm hunting down 16 ounce (1/4 inches or 6.4mm) thick strapping to make a 1907 rifle sling for a competitive shooter. He needs the sling to be thick, stiff and not to stretch when in use. I've talked to two suppliers so far with no luck. The hunt is on! I'm not ready to buy a side... Recommendations? Any saddle makers close to me such as Lancaster, PA which is Amish Dutch? I'm also looking at hardware. I found the sling "frogs" or clips at the buckleguy and aliexpress. These are commonly referred to as littleton clips (from their belts). I would like to find authentic heavy frogs for the sling. Thanks for any leads. Last time I sent up a flag a gentleman in Ireland gave me great advice. Great forum! JOE

Thanks gents. Sometimes I have no clue...and other times, I have no clue... The hides are thin, supple and soft. Looks new and was definitely packed well for the long storage time. Not very thick...so I think a backing would be necessary to line it for a belt. Not dried out...very hydrated... I like the idea of trading for some pre-cut in width for 8-10 oz leather to try my hand at making a few belts. All the items I'm making are for gifting...except for a belt and wallet I will make for myself. Anyone in my area want to trade? Oh, I used 0.8 mm ritaz tiger thread and generic stitching chisels...I don't know the stitch per inch (SPI) on the chisels, but I need another set. What SPI chisels would be used for 0.8mm thread verses 0.6mm thread? Thanks again! JOE

So much feedback...what am I doing here?

So lets get right into fixing the bag and bypassing the couples counseling. Then again... My wife's favorite shoulder bag is old worn and needs help. I started out by cleaning the washed leather bag with 320 grit sandpaper. It is cleaning up nicely. I have Neetsfoot oil on hand. However, my wife likes the very light leather look after sanding and I don't know how dark the NeetsFoot Oil will make the sanded unfinished leather. What are your thoughts? How should I re-hydrate and finish the leather to protect it? Joe

Back in the late '90's I closed my Ostrich Farm in Criner, OK. This week while going thru and thinning out my storage shed I came across a box of 8 hides I had tanned by Capital Leather, Johnstown, NY in 2002. I have the invoice and intend to call the tannery to see how they are doing. I need a few ideas on what to do with the ostrich hides. I skinned two couches and have really improved on my hand stitching the soft chrome tanned upholstery leather. My attention to hand stitching detail and learning the assembly process of a simple zippered coin purse is getting better. My first attempts are real POS's! I use generic stitching chisels, 002 John Jams Needles, 0.8mm ritza thread, Uniters Edge Paint and a homemade stitching pony made from the beautiful maple wood from one of the 40 year old couches. I'm not good enough to use marking chisels and a diamond shaped awl. I plan to continue making the coin purses/wallets for gifts to family and friends. I want to make two belts for myself...so I need a few straps of belt worthy cow leather... So...what do I do with the ostrich hides? I'm not experienced with grading...by a few are blemish free in the full quill diamond area. Attached is the 4th coin purse I made. I'm beginning to feel like I just might have the patience, interest and pride in learning leather work. Feed back is requested... Take Care, AlamoJOE

All, Thanks for the great information. I'm thankful for the detailed input as I will not spend much time on attempting to re-color the upholstery leather. The seat cushions have significantly worn sections from years of use. I'm going to experiment on the three seat cushion covers using a few stripping chemicals for comparison. I think I will try: 1. 70% isopropal alcohol with lemon juice (1/8th cup lemon juice to 1 quart alcohol). 2. Denatured alcohol ( methylated spirits). 3. Separately: Acetone / Lacquer Thinner / Xylene / Toluene. Which I have on hand from other shop projects. I'll tape off quadrants on one of the cushions. Following stripping I will rehydrate with Neatsfoot Oil. Maybe I can get an interesting finish. I'm also going to put the belt sander to work and see what effects I can produce. I want to see what the wrong side looks like without having to shave down material. The cordovan dye saturated 100% of the leather...so no layer to just sand off... Now, onto the Web and to purchase needles, thread, and beeswax. I was gifted an awl and a set of stitching chisels which have the 4, 2, 3, 1 spaced cutting teeth. They appear to be diamond shaped. The awl is round...so maybe into the vise and I'll take the grinder to it to replicate the chisel diamond shaped teeth. I'm going to start slow and make a small shoulder slung cross over handbag for my lady. A bit larger than a pack of cigarettes. I have no clue what this type of handbag is called. I think of this 1st project as an investment. A new hobby requires time commitment. And who better to spend my leather creation time than on my wife. This is one of the key lessons my father taught me a long time ago. Then, when I get lost in the world of my leather creations I won't encounter resistance explaining my absence (hopefully). Lessons Learned. Choose canalized upholstery leather with the knowledge that the color is set or recolor with a dark variation. I will use the pristine red cordovan upholstery from the back of the repurposed couch for my 1st masterpiece. I hope I can do as well as the kids work which is proudly displayed on the refrigerator door. For a time I worked across the street from the Neatsfoot plant in the Port Richmond Section of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Maybe I should look up the Operations Manager I used to talk with. We worked on a problem together and he gave me a tour of his facility. And here I thought Neatsfoot Oil was only used on Combat Boots and Baseball gloves. That concludes my introduction to my new friends here at Leatherworker.net. Very Respectfully, AlamoJOE

Hello from Philadelphia. This is my 1st Post. Pictured is a swatch of information which was affixed to the underside of a free 20 year old cannibalized couch found on Craigslist. 1. What information is on this swatch? 2. What are my options to remove the cordovan color and get to a light brown or other coloration? 3. What should I make 1st? 3. What type of needles and thread type/color do you recommend I start with while I learn to hand stitch? Respectfully, AlamoJOE