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AlamoJoe2002

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About AlamoJoe2002

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greater Philadelphia Area

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    alamojoe2002@yahoo.com

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Straps: holes and buckles...
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Duckduckgo.com

Recent Profile Visitors

2,677 profile views
  1. If this is for practice, can one hydrate the old stiff leather with cheap vegetable oil instead of using the costly NeatsFoot Oil?
  2. BaWarrior, looks great. What type of closure devise did you use to secure the flap? Joe
  3. Ross, That is a work to be proud of. Since I'm learning hand stitching, I'll throw out a what if...What if you were to double back inside the ends of the stitch line instead of turning a u-turn? Joe
  4. I am splitting the neck and belly of a side of W&G 14 ounce leather that I used for straps. I want to split the left over leather down for other projects. I have a table top pull thru splitter, but pulling a 6" wide swath of leather thru my polished blade is hard work. I may hook up a pump jack, and clamp system to get the leather split. At this time, I would like to find someone who can split leather in the Greater Philadelphia Area. Next side I buy from W&C, I will ask for the non-belt material to be stripped down from 12 -14 ounce down to 6-8 ounce. Any info is appreciated. Joe
  5. I have been using M5 x 5mm and 1/8 inch Chicago Screws on skived down 14 ounce at the belt buckle. What happens when the Chicago Screw is too long for the intended purpose and moves around in the leather? Any observations anyone? Joe
  6. I also like to cut a starting slot to get my blade started... However, I'm using a Osborn Pistol Grip Draw Gauge. Having a sharp blade is critical. I've been cutting straps from 14 ounce veg tan skirting.
  7. Great feed back everyone. I'm using my water stones...will stick with the 400 grit for a while. I feel it is critical in any trade to properly have your tools in order. I'm going to learn to sharpen. Thanks, Joe
  8. Thanks for the feedback all. I'm breaking out the water sharpening stones and start at 400 grit. I will send a ton of time at this grit and work the round knife in thirds...two outside and inside. I will get the hang of this sooner or later. If it is totally out of my realm I send it to Bruce Johnson for sharpening.
  9. Tsunkkasapa, 1986-1989 Smith Kascern (sp) D CO /9th EN BN Very Small World! Joe
  10. Thanks Tsunkasapa! I'm glad you recognize our crest! I read in the sharpening forum that a few leather workers won't sharpen over 1200 grit. I liked the read from an Engineer who discussed the micro-serations of the metal knife. I forget the title. We are 12Bravo's or Army Combat Engineers. -Joe
  11. JoiJohnson, I have several black ostrich hides I'm not using. I can part with a few at market price if that suites you. Send me a PM if interested in talking. I'm in Philadelphia... Joe
  12. The situation is something we all have to overcome one time or another. How to get the best edged on my Osborne Old-School Newark NJRound Knife. An no...I don't want to talk to a Chaplin at this time. I tried the sandpaper idea where I increased the grit from 300 to 1500 in stages, stropped on a flesh side leather board covered with Harbor Freight Green Compound. Nogo... I tried my DMT Diamond mini-hones from 300 to 600 to 1200 and stropped. Nogo... I took the heathen to the mini lathe and used a cloth wheel covered in the same H.B. Green Compound. Much better....cutting 14oz shirting with a ton of pressure. Not good enough. Was my knife in Hell before I got my hands on the god-less thing? Joe
  13. HandyDave, Great info. I'll work on a design and get it manufactured! I'm not up to carving yet....Still learning to punch holes in a straight line. -Joe
  14. Inquiry and contact info for roller buckles PM'd.
  15. Thanks Gents! Now I need to find a design I like to lift...
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