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  1. You may find punch heads are available for your setting press, but glue hide to the anvil to spare the cutter
  2. @Dwight, the same for bodkins. For fun, have you seen Joerg Sprave's The Slingshot Channel on Youtube? He's trying to make quivers redundant.
  3. Zippers come in two types, toothed and chain: the chain type resembles a looped wire. Some types are reversible, ie a slider can work pointing in either direction, so something like a bag can take two sliders each with a half-hasp allowing a padlock, for example. There are also locks with a tooth engaging in the zipper, running from simple stops to full key locks. These are pretty much limited to the #5 size, although I have seen some for the #10, they're really scarce. The # is the width of the closed zipper, in mm. There's ambiguity over the definition of open and closed zippers. I'll start from continuous roll zipper, which is cut to length. If the entire thing is to be separable, then the bottom end tags are the tongue and housing, which go over the teeth or replace them, otherwise it's a staple tag holding the engaged teeth closed. The top end will usually have a separate stop tab crimped over a tooth on each side, but if you're using a slider coming from each end, then it may be the same as a closed bottom end. Teeth outside the tags are usually cut away. Made-up zippers are simply this done for you, so it may be possible to remove the top tags and move them slightly lower, if you need to shorten a zipper that's too long. YKK make the widest range available, including the different locking sliders. To go into this in greater depth, https://www.ykkfastening.com/products/zipper/
  4. What are you using as the punch? One of the plier type? If so, ditch it, get a set of straight punches - I might suggest Ivan's with the swappable heads, except one sheared...half the cutting edge just disappeared...That way you're punching straight up and down where you put the punch. Use a soft-head mallet (leather/rubber/plastic) As far as the rivets are concerned, use the right size head for the rivet, I'd suggest.
  5. As you say, @Bonecross, they could pop out. Given leather is organic and matures, I'd suggest that, in the long term, "will" is a more likely option. That being said, turquoise and cabuchons aren't the hardest stones, and could probably be edge-slotted using a Dremel diamond disk mounted in their table router, perhaps using rouge as a grinding paste. That would then offer the possibility of inlaying a thinner chrome leather force-fitted into the slot, before gluing. Again, it might be worth checking if epoxy is the best option compared with my current, expensive go-to, Renia colle de cologne, which seems to hold on to anything unusually well. At the same time, epoxy will soak into the leather in the slot, turning it into an o-ring. Horses for courses.
  6. Given you're pretty sure you're going to have spare on the binding, I'd suggest you go for overkill, with 1/4 " excess before you bring the bag in, and 1/4" or more on the tail. Unravel the thread in each tail, back to the bag by a stitch, and hold it well out of the way while you trim the excess binding flush. Then bury the excess thread by backsewing four or five stitches by hand, in saddle stitch. Cut flush and heat to lose the polyester stub back into the material.
  7. You're not the only one! One of the reasons to do a test on some scrap of the materials.
  8. As well...so the issue's that 6" of binding's stretching into 6.3" or something when sewn to 6" of substrate? I'd live with it and trim the excess once sewn. You'll find the same with fabric, it'll stretch more in one direction, which is why binding's cut on the bias.
  9. Eyes are almost exactly 40mm across, the same as a ping-pong ball, so it can be used to wet-form a mask.
  10. If the issue's it not coming out flat, have a good look at the interlock of the threads. It may be that where they loop around each other in the hole isn't in the middle, but almost at the surface on one side. That's caused by a tension difference, with the curve pointing towards the side that's too tight.
  11. His planer is finely settable, a rotating drum with a cutter on each side of the drum. He's got the idea, double-sided tape, although it may be better to damp the leather and wrap it over the ends, using clamp bars screwed into the end grain. It'll be drum taut that way when it dries.
  12. A wood planer is perfect for the job, if you have one. It's just that leather companies want to split hides which may be an unusable 7-8mm thick into a top split and a suede, each 3-4mm.
  13. It would be easier, under these instances, to use a venturi brush, which creates an airflow across the mouth of the bottle to create a vacuum sucking its contents into the flow. All you'd have to clean then is the cap of the bottle.
  14. Them's going to need my services - look up my avatar's history.
  15. Dye has an annoying habit of following the fibres, making a small logo ill-defined. Resist may be a little better, but not good enough. Test on some scrap. You could get it etched by someone else, then cut to size and sew it on.
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