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  1. I don't think it's book covering he's after, but a pouch for it to go into.
  2. @chiefjason Don't forget finding his way, though. The lighter weight's a viable compromise, with experience he'll find what works for him. I once knew a sergeant-major whose party piece was firing a machine-gun single-handed, like a pistol. You might need your 10oz for that!
  3. That's great for the back plate, too thick to mold. Try 3-4oz.
  4. One trick can be to allow yourself more seam allowance than normal, cut that back and finish it after the sewing's done. Dremels to the fore...
  5. As far as the corners are concerned, it may be easier to start with them on the 45° and ease everything on from there. Possibly tack the centre bottom and a similar distance up the sides to stop everything chasing its tail in circles.
  6. Ivan sell V- neck and quadrant radius punches - cut the V and punch the tip. Fancy curves, cut a template in plastic.
  7. Shoemaking often uses materials in this way, reinforcing toes and heels. On a turned bag, the lining isn't turned, of course, and can carry the stiffener, wirh the top welt turned in, glued and sewn. You need a wider seam allowance and to skive the leather, of course.
  8. Patience on the port, there's no point in shredding the leather. Keep coming back to it, damping and forming it closer. You might need to thicken up the trigger guard with tape, before doing the same.. It's more the undercut on the barrel causing the issue here, though. You have a clear image of what you want, now just make it happen. Have faith!
  9. Going a step further back, a duct tape pattern is a simple solution. Cover the part to be fitted to in cling film, and add duct tape to that in 2 layers, horizontal and vertical. Cut free, then tear the surplus film away. Now draw the seams in and transfer to card, either by tracing or photocopying, and cut to shape, allowing some generosity. Copy to card again, simply by tracing around the forms, as the seam lines, and add some seam allowance using dividers once you know what goes where. Trace this onto your vinyl and add the seam lines using dividers again. Notch the seam allowance as necessary on curves, and sew up as a draft fitting, a toile, marking where it needs taking in or letting out. Redraw the pattern accordingly, test again, and if OK make up in leather. You may be able to trim the seam allowance after sewing (and possibly gluing). Remember to mark project, stage, part name and number, and date as you go. I plasticise my final forms.
  10. This calls for a harder inner case. Make it in a thermoset plastic, sand it flat, and apply a leather cover over that. You might need a thin shim stopping the thermoset getting into every nook and cranny, ie just wrap it in 1oz scrap and cover that with cling film before covering with the plastic.
  11. Things only tear if your tool doesn't cut because it's not sharp enough.
  12. It's in circumference. Have the bullets on the outside and the retaining strap will grip like hell. On the inside, the curve releases its grip. Using a running strap eases it a biy, but essentially, you just discovered why the strap's only secured at the end!
  13. It's a military bag, it shouldn't shine. Yes, I know Prussian spit and polish says otherwise, but they're opposite ends of the Germanophone world and the Swiss in general have something to live for. Fighting military look for shape, shine, silhouette, shadow, as giveaways something's hiding.
  14. You might have to die it again afterwards, mind. I've used a stitch channeller on dyed tan, and the dye was only surface. It was actually quite a nice effect, in prectice.
  15. I live in wet England, we need all the grip we can get!
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