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About Eitan

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  1. Hi, I also have the same issue. Did you manage to solve it?
  2. Regardless of the manufacturer, I would recommend buying thread snips with a micro serrated edge. The serrated blade prevents thread slippage during cutting and eliminates the need to pull the threads when cutting. Here are some examples: https://tinyurl.com/y9weufd7 https://tinyurl.com/y9ksqxra
  3. Hi toxo, Thanks for the help. I've watched this video, but unfortunately the stitch length adjustment mechanism for the 167 is different than the 267 (and the 269) mechanism.
  4. I've used Fastbond 30NF by 3M. Another water based adhesive, but with a long work time (up to 4 hours). I find it very useful, especially when glueing large areas or multiple items together.
  5. Tom, I searched as much as I could in this forum, google, youtube, etc. The closest I got was an Adler 167 and the popular 205, both having a different mechanism than the 269 unfortunately. Gregg, I did find the manual for this machine and have tried to adjust it via the relevant eccentric (listed as B/3 in the 267 manual): I adjusted it so when stitch length is 0, there is no movement - Didn’t help with the forward and reverse. I adjusted it so there will be no movement, when the needle bar is at its deepest point, while operating the stitch regulation lever - There was absolutely no movement at any stitch length. Any suggestion? I can upload relevant photos if needed.
  6. Hi, as a long time spectator and a recent member of this site, I hope you guys could help me with the following issue: I recently bought a used Adler 269-73 in a good working condition. The previous owner lengthened the forward stitch, with a help from a technician (said it took around 5 minutes), resulting in an uneven forward and revers stitch. I contacted a professional Adler technician in my country, but he wasn’t able to fix this issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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