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LiftPig

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About LiftPig

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  • Location
    Gridley, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, farming, firefighting.

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Small goods, Holsters, Firefighter Gear
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    Drawing and carving floral design
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  1. I have some oil and whatnot I can bring when I look at it. That's a great suggestion. Wiz, do you know what motors shipped w/ those back around that time? I'm guessing I'll probably end up replacing the motor and I'd also bet there's no speed reducer (just a hunch) so that'll have to go into my calculations. Right now the figure I have in my head is if it runs okay I'll offer up to $1000, get an ACF-681 motor (~$500 shipped). With that 1,100 watt motor I shouldn't need the speed reducer, right?
  2. Good morning all, I was approached by a family friend and given the opportunity to purchase a used Artisan Toro 3200. I've been in the market for a 441 clone anyway so this is good timing. The person who has it knows very little about it. He bought it, he thinks, about 15 years ago and it was too heavy for his needs so it's been stored ever since. He has no idea what motor is on it. I haven't laid eyes on it yet. I have a Class 26 so I'm not an utter newbie to machines but I'm no expert either. Is there anything specific on this I should look for or look out for? Before I go look for it and make an offer I'd like to know what to look for. Cheers, Jordan
  3. Thanks ArkieNewbie. This is an ongoing issue I'm having. When I sew with 138 it sews great, 207 and the tensions seem like they're all over the place. It's good to know that Aaron Heizer (whom I respect deeply) advocates clockwise payout. Makes me feel more confident. I appreciate the reply.
  4. I'm still having some issues with my Class 26 sewing with 207 thread (there's a previous thread about it here if anyone is interested). I talked to LMC and the advice I got was that I had my bobbin in backwards and to switch it so it pays out clockwise and to drop my needle size to a 23 or 24. I'm trying to sew 207 through 16 ounces of firm veg. The knots are inconsistently showing up at the top and the bottom within a few stitches of each other. In other words, it seems like my tension is inconsistent. I did what he said and the problem didn't change one bit. Does putting the bobbin in "backwards" make sense? Everything I've seen and read emphasizes the importance of the bobbin paying out counter clockwise. I'm not trying to say I know more than the guy at LMC - he works on these machines all day. I'm just trying to wrap my head around his advice.
  5. Here's my (I think) resolution post for my own reference and for anyone else running into problems who don't want to go through all the posts above and just want to skip to the weenie. I ran several pieces yesterday with 138 on a #23 needle through 8 ounces of veg tan married to 4 ounces of soft oil tan with contact cement and got good stitches and a quiet machine. 1. I shortened the throw of the check spring by loosening the screw on the underside of the device and moving the curved piece of metal clockwise about 20 degrees. The video from @Uwe posted above explains the proper position. The screw isn't obvious, it's not the two screws on the front of the disk, it's the one on the bottom going through a curved slot in a piece of metal that looks like it can be adjusted - you'll need to get your eye level below the disk and look upwards. This gave the top thread more slack coming around the bobbin case so it follows the contour of the case smoothly and at an even rate. The video for that is a couple posts above. 2. I adjusted the bobbin case opener to allow just enough room for 207 to pass through without binding up and no feeling of binding on the machine when sewing. The video on how to do this is below. Make sure when you think you've got it you turn the hand wheel slowly and feel if it is a smooth travel all the way around. If it feels like it's binding, you're probably adjusted too tight and you need to back that adjustment off a little more so the bobbin case opener isn't straining as the machine works. 3. I retimed my machine so that I'm advanced of the recommended 1/8" above BDC for my timing moment. I tried setting my timing so that the tip of the hook was at 12 o'clock when the arm was at it's very top and ended up skipping stitches. I backed to about 11:00 and that seems to be the sweet spot for my machine. I'm not sure where that relates to the needle above BDC because I didn't take the feed dogs off to measure precisely. It's around 3/16"-7/32". That video is below as well with the following disclaimer: Uwe mentions adjusting the timing belt. He has since posted that was the incorrect adjustment and was not the correct solution. The correct adjustment is the hook timing. Don't mess with the timing belt. A couple tips: 1. The Class 26 is a Juki 341 clone. There's a paucity of videos and info about the 26 but a bunch of stuff about 341 and Tacsew 1563. As best as I can tell they're identical in all the ways that matter. 2. Start with adjusting your hook timing. I did this backwards and started with the check spring adjustments, then the bobbin case opener, then the hook timing. Go in the opposite order. In my case the hook timing was the big winner, though the other two needed a bit of refinement too. 3. There's a second component to the hook timing, and that's the needle bar. It's mentioned in the video by @VanPlew above. If your timing is thrown off because you hit a snap or something, you'll probably need to adjust this too. 4. The manual that came with the Class 26 is pretty bad. A couple posts above @Tequila shared some much better manuals. Go download them. Thank you!!! to @Wizcrafts, @kgg, @Burkhardt & @Tequila for their help and to @Uwe for taking the time to create videos that we can all watch and learn from. Bobbin Case Opener Adjustment Timing Adjustment: Please note, Uwe mentions adjusting the timing belt. He has since posted that was the incorrect adjustment and was not the correct solution. The correct adjustment is the hook timing. Don't mess with the timing belt.
  6. @Icho & @Moti did you get this problem resolved? I'm having similar problems and it seems to be not-too-uncommon with 341 clones. I got some good advice from @Wizcrafts & @kgg utilizing @Uwe's videos and the problem has improved significantly. I have one more adjustment to make this evening and I'm pretty convinced that this issue is going to go away once I do that.
  7. Update: I moved the bobbin opener back as much as I can without causing a bind. The manual is really vague as exactly how to set it so I used @Uwe method of setting the tab in the middle of the slot when the thread reaches 3 o clock and then a touch more. I also changed the swing and tension of the check spring to give the top a little more throw. I would say the noise of the thread getting caught beneath the bobbin case has reduce about 50%. I did a few test stitches that looked pretty good but then had to leave for work. I'll test some more today. @Wizcrafts you mention in a few other threads advancing the timing a little bit (a couple degrees) when someone else described a similar problem. Would that be helpful? I have my timing set in the method that @VanPlew describe in their youtube video. I recall seeing a post from @Uwe saying how he likes to time based on hook position rather than a distance above BDC but now I can't find it again and I don't remember which position he mentions. I think it's having the hook tip at 7:30 when at BDC but I can't recall exactly. The aforementioned @VanPlew video:
  8. The thread is same size top and bottom - 207. It happens with all threads pretty equally. I did once think it was a black thread issue (of which there are many) since most of my sewing is black thread but that's not the case. Wow these are great manuals. Why aren't the ones that come with Cobra's this good? Thank you so much!! Wiz and KGG - Thank you for the advice and videos! Looking at the 341 video compared to mine and breaking them down frame by frame, mine is under way more tension. I'm betting that the take up spring and/or bobbin case opener are mal-adjusted. I'll work on those adjustments and report back.
  9. I can tell you what I do - it might not be the According to Hoyle right thing but it works for me. I set my tension for the thinnest part. Now I know the knot is somewhere in that thin material. Theoretically, going up in thickness should leave the knot in the same general place, and while it may not be right in the middle of the layers, it's buried. You could also give the tension knob a couple clicks tighter when you go up in thickness, keeping track of how many times you do that, and then go back down if the material gets thin again. When my machine is sewing well this works - I might get one wonky knot that just shows right at the transition between thicknesses but I can poke that down with a blunted awl.
  10. Hi KGG I've had the machine about 18 months. I always thought the noise was the spring on the third tension disk (check-spring?) resetting and the knots were something I was doing. I slowed way down, watched the spiral exercise videos on YouTube, practiced a lot, and was very careful about technique and still have issues. It wasn't until the gentleman I spoke to on the phone said he heard the twang and had never heard such a noise coming from a 26 that I started investigating where it came from. I did look through the thread you linked - his noise was some sort of squealing coming from the shaft - mine's something else. I haven't talked to LMC yet. My work schedule has me working when they're open. The good news is my schedule changes in a couple weeks and I'll have Friday's off to call them. Here's a link to the sound:
  11. Good morning everyone, I'm having some trouble with my Class 26. I'm usually running 138 or 207 top and bottom through 8-16 ounces of firm veg tan. I use a 23 needle for 138 and a 25 for the 207. I'm getting inconsistent stitch tension and the occasional balled up knot/loose stitch that isn't pulled up through the piece. This is especially true going around any type of corner but as you can see in the pictures it happens in the straights a lot too. The pictures below are 207 through 8 ounces of veg on a 25 Schmetz tri point needle. I've cranked down the tension until every knot is on top and it still happens. I've cranked down the pressor foot as far as it goes and it still happens. I've raised the needle until its barely in the leather before making a turn and it still happens. What's most frustrating is that it's so random. I'll get two or three stitches that has too much top tension, then two or three that have two little. I spoke to a guy who is well established as knowing these machines well and we worked on tension, bobbin tension, cleaning out the tension discs, changing needles, rethreading the machine, different threads, looking at timing, and technique. We were on the phone for about three hours and at the end he said "I can't think of anything else to help you, you might be screwed". One thought I have is that when the thread pulls from under the bobbin case it makes a loud popping sound. I have a video of it but it's too large to embed here. I've scoured the internet looking at videos of sewing with a 26 and with only one exception, nobody's machine makes that noise. It seems logical in my brain that the top thread getting caught under the bobbin case is going to make a tension issue as the take-up lever raises. I've taken apart the race to look for debris but haven't found anything. The machine is well oiled. Could this be my culprit? I'm at a loss. I do know that I have a backlog of orders and a machine that's making loose stitches that have to be-resewn. I am extremely grateful for any help or insight. Cheers, Jordan
  12. When I wet form holsters I dip it for about 7 seconds in ~2c luke warm water with 1 drop of dish soap (breaks up surface tension). I then let it set for about 5 minutes before introducing the pistol. This is using 8-10 ounce very firm veg tan.
  13. It comes with some manner of high-density closed cell foam. Doesn't say what the density is. It's made for Kydex. I imagine it would get at least a beginning impression made that could then be sharpened with normal techniques.
  14. Any holster makers used this press for leather? Any thoughts on it?
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