Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About LiftPig

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Gridley, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, farming, firefighting.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Small goods, Holsters, Firefighter Gear
  • Interested in learning about
    Drawing and carving floral design
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Web Search

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. When I wet form holsters I dip it for about 7 seconds in ~2c luke warm water with 1 drop of dish soap (breaks up surface tension). I then let it set for about 5 minutes before introducing the pistol. This is using 8-10 ounce very firm veg tan.
  2. It comes with some manner of high-density closed cell foam. Doesn't say what the density is. It's made for Kydex. I imagine it would get at least a beginning impression made that could then be sharpened with normal techniques.
  3. Any holster makers used this press for leather? Any thoughts on it?
  4. Good morning all, I have a customer who would like something built similar to this picture. I've heard that it's called a "Montana Rig" but I'm not sure if that's right. Does anyone have a pattern for this? I know I could sit down and make one, but if someone else has already gone through the trouble, I'd rather support their endeavor. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello everyone, I've resigned myself that if I want to make this belt the way the customer requests, I'll need to have a custom stamp made. I don't need a big expensive brass stamp. Delryn will work. I'm willing to bet I only use the thing once. I need the stamp to be no larger than 1" tall (going on a belt). Here's an example of the art. If you have a better sample of a Northern Flicker that would look better, I'm all ears. If anyone is willing to make this for me (and have it to me in California, USA within 2 weeks or so), please DM or respond to this message. Cheers,
  6. I have a customer who wants a Norther Flicker (it's an irritating bird that knocks holes in houses. It's one of God's lovely creatures) placed on the inside of a belt. I've looked at some line drawings and I can draw the thing but I'm not sure how well it's going to come out once it's carved in a space that's only 1" high. I guess I could have a stamp made but I'd rather not, as I doubt I'd ever use the thing again. Anyone else have any ideas, or a stamp for a woodpecker type thing I could borrow/rent?
  7. It looks good NOW but my concern is that all this product will come out when it gets damp from use in some dudes back pocket. Some of the horror stories I’ve read has me concerned. That said, when I got home from work today I oiled the leather a bit and nothing came up on the rag so that’s encouraging. Funny reading suggestions for Pledge with Future. I used Future Floorwax to seal model airplanes until the product was discontinued. I swear the outcry from that was what made SE Johnson reintroduce the brand.
  8. Also, check to make sure there's nothing jammed up in the bobbin compartment. Even a little piece of thread will gum up the works.
  9. So, I'm making a wallet with the intent to try to sell it. I happened to watch a video on YouTube of George Hurst using Eco-Flo All-in-One on a belt and thought "that came out looking great". So I went and bought some, cut my wallet, drew my design, did my tooling and applied the stuff. I agree it looks fantastic. Very easy to work with, deep color and a very nice satin sheen left at the end. Now, this morning I was looking to see what to use to seal the stuff and have read the horror stories of it bleeding out and making a mess of things. Now, my question is, should I bother trying to seal it or just toss the thing and start again? I don't want to sell a wallet and have a customer be unhappy because the dye that should be in his wallet has soaked out to his skivvies. Has anyone used this successfully? I wish I could use Feibings Pro-Dye but I'm in California and can't (this state.....).
  10. I totally agree w/ the AC. I live in Northern California (Butte County). It gets hot in the summer. I think a wall or window unit AC is a must, not only for comfort but to protect my leather and supplies from getting baked. I think a base-unit 12x10 will work. I can install a couple windows and run the romex myself for power. How do you keep the critters (I'm mostly worried about rats and mice) out?
  11. My new house is about 50% complete being built. I've decided to move my leather shop out to a tuff shed type situation as soon as we move so I can work at night and not bother everyone with the tap-tap-tapping. My question is, for those who are working out of one, how big is adequate and how do you have it set up? I think an 8-10x12 would probably be okay. I'd like to have a full 4x8 sheet of plywood as my cutting bench so I can lay a side out and have room to cut and maneuver. Eventually I'll have a sewing machine and table. A small space to tool (or just put my granite on the cutting table) would also be nice. That and some storage should do it, right? Thanks in advance for the replies.
  12. Has anyone tried using vinyl cut-outs as a mask for dye? I have a client who wants his company logo on some leather. It's too small and intricate to carve, at least with my skills. I was thinking if I made a vinyl cut-out of his logo, stuck it to the leather, and then lightly airbrushed several light coats of dye, I could get the logo how he wants it. I realize a laser etcher would do this but I don't have one nor access to one. I do have access to a vinyl cutter, though. Just curious on everyone's thoughts.
  13. Which setter do you have? I've been looking at various models. I'd like something that can set double caps, tube rivets, and line 20/24 snaps without crushing the hell out of them.
  14. JerseyFirefighter, I'm assuming from your handle that you're in the business, too. I didn't want to use the Rivet/Burr combo since they're so big, and really an overkill for these. But you're as aware I am that firefighters are hard on their things. I don't trust sewing and glue alone to hold things together that need to be structural and might be subjected to heat, solvents, high stress, and other nasties. I'd prefer the cleaner look of a double cap, though. I might make some test pieces and pull them apart with a come along and see what fails.
  • Create New...