ASAuLTCases

Hi again, sorry I missed your response, how are you getting on with your machine and needles? asaultleatherwork@gmail.com . Hopefully we will be out of lockdown at the weekend so if you want to try out my singer and needles so you can get a real look at the difference in them let me know. If you want to bring your machine so we can have a look at it and try out some needles in yours to make sure it hasn't been messed about with in any way? I didn't realise when I first replied that you was a lady "so arrangements can be done in the open on here for your piece of mind" cheers Anthony Salt ASAuLT Leatherwork.

if you rivet the tab on inthe place a snap would go, with a small spacer, then take it out and slide the tab over and off when you want to, if you get what i mean

Hello all, i am just putting together a small case that goes on a tank bib, so it can be taken off i was going to use a snap fastener but the rivet stems are to short for 1/4inch, 6mm thick piece, i don't want to skive it because it will not look right, but i am wondering if anyone has tried using the long-stemmed half of a double head rivet instead of the normal head? i hope this makes sense, thanks in advance,

i didn't say but on the singer that's compound feed,i can adjust the feed dogs so they don't come up high enough to damage the leather ( come to think about it take them off altogether), looking at the exit ring it is leaving makes me wonder how big the needle hole is in the footplate? it looks massive or you use very small needles? that looks suspect to me as an engineer, I don't have the experience as a machinist, but it would have to be a blunt needle pushing into a large hole and forcing through the leather? what needles are you using? another sewing machine dealer is AE sewing machines UK, ihave only brought one order from them of needles, small pulley, bobbins, seam cutters, needle threader, thread etc but they where great, big selection of needles, you can download your machine parts diagrams/list, they seem to have a huge spare parts department, you should be able to check if your needle hole in the footplate has been drilled out to hide damage from a stray needle, but a smaller hole and a sharp leather needle would help you a lot, a schmetz RTW leather needle give a lovely diamond shape hole and a lovely looking saddle stitch "Z" on my machine they do, the offers there if you want to try it,

JHBH2, hello mate, ive got a Singer 211g166 and one of those Chinese hand-crank machines, i live near the M1 motorway services, i see your only in Nottingham "i say only but it depends what side" but if its any help your welcome to come and have a go with them and see if they are (the singer) what you need?

i get what you mean fredk, common sense and logically, i seem to have a vision of car door hinges in leather now you mention the Austin 7 having leather straps? not that i was around, i did have a Morris Oxford estate that i was going to get back on the road when i was about 16 but the floor was rotten so i scrapped it, it was 1981 before i get hung lol. The old cars and bikes ive had, i would be minted if i had them still, mind you £25 last leg cars was all we used to have and drive for years, probably why insurance companies charge now to change the details,

great thanks fredk, that's good to no, i prefer going on gut feeling, but after reading the discussion started by Johane about fitting buckles and straps, it has some good points and debated counterpoints, i will have to keep in mind, more for shoulder and handle buckles and straps that hold the weight and take the friction from motion,so need to be extra strong, i don't think closing straps and buckles take so much abuse thou? cheers

Hello all, i have just got some buckles for my tool roll case and it occurs to me should i put the buckle on the bottom body with the tongue straps coming down from the flap/lid closer? or the other way round, then i wondered if there is a set rule to this? if so why? i did a google search that as usual, i end up directed back to Leatherworker and Johanas topic that is great but it is how best to fit them, maybe it doesn't help not using the correct terminology, so help with that would also be appreciated, Thanks in advance for any help.

it fits in a slot in the footplate and stops going round, unless the hook is to low or the plate is bent upwards, i have just got a 211g166 a few weeks ago and hade to set it up, download a few manuals because some explain bits better and even mention things others don't, i think the best was for the model you have, but make sure you read and understand what it says because it will save a lot of time and confusion especialy if bits are missing and set up wrong believe me,

Yes thats great thanks YinTx, ive just been studying Paul Burnetts lessons and came across the lifting type tool, it might have been more going under, but i get the idea, thanks i have lots of screw drivers so i will be re-designing some.

that is brilliant, how do you get it so deep? or is it partly 3D effect? i am new to the Art so please excuse me if my questions should be part of the learning curve and learn from experience in order to really grasp the technique? as i just mentioned order could you also give any advice on the best order to tool, wet-form mould, and colour etc the leather when you are making something that gives the opportunity to pick the order? thanks

im evo contact and just got a tool centre contact that is runny, i am not sure on that yet, but for watch straps Gorilla glue classic will beat all the others but it would cost more than the leather on bigger builds, but i would say its ideal for you, I've glued my souls on old boots and they are still stuck, after months, that is all the proof i need, i tried loads over the years and would not even bother trying the others, i have a Gorilla glue and tried it not expecting it to work, brilliant stuff and you damp one side and a bit goes a long way, we don't have better in the UK.

Hi all sorry if this is in the wrong place, i thought more users would see it here if they have a sewing machine head and a juki steel industrial stand with treadle would be of use? they are on sale at AESewing machines in the UK for £35 if it is a good price? anyway just thought i would tell you all in case it is of use to anyone

Cheers alysay, i made the base to fit and the tool roll for a bit of lumbar support, they are not designed as one set, i think it would be to much pattern if it was, but another thing for me to remember, "not to busy with mixing patterns", i think a plane tool roll using the buckles and hardware as detail would look best, i still haven't managed to get that real deep 3D effect like you all get, some are amazing how deep they look,

Brilliant, that's how you are meant to do the bottoms,

This is my 2nd attempt at a seat,and 3rd veg-tan job, the tool roll is 2nd thing, I was up all night on Saturday just because I wanted to finish something and like a p!onka used dark brown edge cote instead of russet like the tool roll, I haven't put the hardware on the tool roll, but hopefully they will be the first of many, I have some saddle bags I've wet formed in a very unique shape and style again first time doing it. 11once veg tan is expensive so I can't afford mistakes, so I am hoping that they will be used for advertising, a good friend who has been building choppers for nearly 40 years has a couple of Harley D's he has built, so I will be making things for those so I can photograph, advertise and sell before I starve, LOL,

Just in case it is one of the few singers that the thread goes the opposite way, I was trying to sort my new to me 211g166 out for days and days, they are so finely tuned its easy to forget how much is going, timing has to be perfect for each mechanical operation, my eyes aint that good now and when I got something white behind the hook and needle gap I was miles away,

The very best ergonomic, fully adjustable office chair is the, tb 116/117, The chair all other mimic as close as possible without copyright infringements, This has everything any other cannot, Because of all this and so well made with a lot of mechanics going on inside the chair they are far from cheap. But this chair will not be the reason you cannot walk in older years, Yes I have one but never gave a thought until I looked the number up that is under the seat, I never use it, but I live in the UK?

Hello mate, new UK user i see from all the replies we are alone, i cannot say I've got anything great, nearly all Amazon, nice screw rivets (Chicago rivets, ?) the male-female post rivets are ok if the thickness is the right size, i have nipped a bit of the stem with side cutters so they fit and not collapse, the magnetic closer with 2 legs and retainer are ok, and the sew-in ones are all just ok, i want some nice closers, i was looking at some earlier, BUT WORST OF ALL ARE GROMMETS COMPLETE RUBBISH, I HAVE HAD GOOD ONES MIXED WITH THE SHITE ONES SO GOOD ONES ARE, I NOWHERE MIGHT ADVANCED ENTERPRISES, I GOT A LOAD OF NEEDLES AND THINGS FROM THERE BUT HAVNT LOOKED FOR HARDWEAR SO WORTH A TRY, LEATHER CRAFT TOOLS I HAVE NOT TRIED BUT THEY HAVE THE GOODS, IT IS JUST POST COST, I CAME ACROSS SOMEWHERE WHEN I DIDNT WANT ANY, BUT LIKE A FOOL NEVER TOOK NOTE, IF YOU FIND ANYTHING, JUST ON GROMMETS IF YOU WANT YOUR SUPPLY TO YOURSELF, CHEERS

Hi Squirrel 42, I've just join because i noticed when i was just looking things up on the net and i don't think anyone noticed or said about your machine? in your first photo the one pointing at a screw you can move, on the far side of the machine there is a cam-arm that should be connected to this side of the machine, this may sound odd but i am going by my new to me 211g166 with reverse = that cam-arm comes from the safety clutch area and over to the reverse mechanism, but even though you don't have reverse i have all so noticed it on service drawings for the 211g165, so i am not to sure what it actually does,, there was also another screw loose but you have probably put it all together now and up and running, I've had mine about 2 weeks, it was dry as a bone and all the timings were out because it seemed like it had all ways been rectified by adjusting in one direction until certain parts had nowhere left to go, so when i came along wanting to centre it around a 160 needle all the toy came out this singers cot, i was very worried i had brought a nail, but studying the service manual and parts manual, being careful to read every word like the needle bar adjustment for a bar without the mark and with a mark, i was moving mine with a mark the 2.4mm. are well i can set the lot up now lol, going back to that cam-arm, i had to slightly "well that's all you can do" move it away from the one next to it when its in place because it would catch it when it travelled, anyway all the best and hope its sorted, cus mine runs great now and zipped along 9 layers of c-tan ap-leather like butter with a clutch motor i mean fast, i have a 40mm motor pulley when i get a shorter belt, nearly as fast as my old singer 96k i forgot last 2 numbers but industrial, not walking foot but with leather needles, it had no problem with any leather, but even with 3 pulley gears as slow as possible it was mental with a bigger needle working area, these 11 series are tight in garment cluster room i notice doing some leather on denim jeans, i spouse new clothing is stitched in order and laid flat, i have a JUST BIKERS leather Belstaff style 3/4 coat with 4 front outside square pockets that i would never get under the 211, I've got my chinky coBbler for that LOL, HOW THE F##K ANYONE CAN THINK THE CHINESE SPREAD COV19 ALL OVER THE WORLD IN 2 WEEKS WHEN YOU HAVE TO WAIT 2 MONTHS FOR A PACK OF NEEDLES?