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About RoycesLeather

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    All forms of leather carving but specifically Sheridan style. Saddle work and horse tack as well as other western leather goods

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Tooled Leather
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  1. Leather Wranglers are great. I believe they are aluminum and he also has wood and beaded ones
  2. Good advice and thoughts. thanks I will keep that in mind. I normally try and check tension too but I guess I just went for it after sewing the first sheath and by the time I noticed it. It was all done and too late. I will keep the pilot hole in mind too I like that concept for if you get stuck. I am wondering about a little longer stitch length I had it set to about 4.5 but if you loose your rhythm at all it pulls through with thick leather for some reason. I will try doing my next ones closer to 5.5 per in I think and see if that helps a little also. What stitch length do you like to run? 277 thread on a cowboy 4500 by the way. Thank you! unfortunately all he gave me was a rough steel mock up of the knife so I don't have the actual blade sorry.
  3. Your right. That was one of my disappointments. Something happened with my machine tension on that one and I was disappointed in how much it pulled in but I wasn't sure of a good way to fix it after the fact. Ironically they are both stitched with the same size thread and needle all I did was change colors and the second sheath I put together had problems. Oh well live and learn. Thanks for the reply and keen eye Royce
  4. Finished these two bowie sheath's this week. Both are for the same shaped knife as I work with a local knife maker. Overall I am mostly happy. Wish I had measured out better and placed the state of Texas in a different location on the tooled sheath. Any other sheath makers out there have any tips please let me know as I am always looking to improve. Have great one happy tooling! Royce
  5. I used Feiblings yellow pro dye as my base on this guitar strap. I feathered it in much more than most on this strap so it doesn't have as hard of a line as I'd like and kind of muddy like you talked about but each comes out slightly different. This one is really basic burst. I don't know if there is a right or wrong way it's just a matter of having it look the way you want but I am always open to tips if ya'll got em. I have never used the honey dye your talking about but I think this yellow pro dye got me as close as I've found to the yellow in guitar bursts and might be worth a shot for you. Thanks for sharing your work looks great! Royce
  6. Depending on your paint and how much you want it to bond to your leather and the effect you are trying to achieve there are countless ways to go about this. I find that certain colors (like white) of the leather acrylic paints are hard to make solid without a ton of light even coats. So when I am trying to achieve a true solid color affect on a small surface like a letter I use the needle point applicators you can find them at hobby lobby. They allow you to make thin lines evenly and consistent as well as fill in small surface areas evenly. They also don't leave any brush marks so they make a great solid letter color. I prefer to carve my letters so I don't have the secondary line of a stamp but when you want to fill the secondary border of a stamped letter these applicates will do that very nicely and evenly allowing you to make the border a different color than the letter if you choose. The downfall here is that they take much longer to dry because you are applying such a thick coat at once and I personally feel there is not much absorbing into the leather you are just painting it, but the results of a true solid paint color are unbeatable. If you want it to absorb a bit more you can water down you paints to make them more like a dye and brush them on in multiple coats until you reach your desired look. In my opinion this is more durable but takes longer. Otherwise watering your paints down gives you a great washed out affect that you can then blend and sunburst with. Also if you are going to dye your project I would defiantly do that first then paint. Unless you are using an antique then I actually go through my process twice and paint my project then antique then touch up any paint that may have rubbed off. (you can create a cool weathered affect by not touching up your paint much after antiquing over the top though) Bottom line is don't get stuck on one technique if you have a desired look in your head keep trying different approaches till you find it. I know there are a lot more techniques out there and I have some more that I use but these are a couple of my most common approaches when painting leather. Just my two cents worth use it how you will and have fun! Royce
  7. Thank you everyone glad you like it. Here is a picture of the inside of the box had trouble attaching it to the original post so hopefully it will go through this time. The train is enclosed in glass and there is a battery operated light that can be accessed from the back. My sister did the scenery on the inside of the box with fabric. So it is truly a family treasure. Thanks for looking
  8. A Box I made to hold my Grandpa's toy motorized train from when he was a kid. Makes a great family keepsake will be enjoyed for years to come. Had a blast making this so I thought I'd share. Thanks
  9. If you don't mind spending some money you should check out leather wranglers I believe he is making splitter blades now for both Osborne and Tandy models. You will have to wait to get it but it would be a replacement for you. I have not used his splitter blades but if they are anything like his round knives they are super sharp and a breeze to use and maintain.
  10. Thanks for the tips. I will check out the kemovan one's for sure. I get it with the steel that makes sense. I shouldn't have dropped it to start with lol..
  11. Looking for advice on good edger's that will hold an edge I have used Craftool pro edger's, weaver edger's, and Jerimiah Watt edger's. the Craftool pro's break with any kind of force or drop and only work nice for a while. Jeramiah Watt edger's dulled quickly. Weaver has been the best that I have tried and are economical but I am looking into Ron's tools edger's as well as Barry King. Any advice on either of these brands or another brand I should check out for a high quality edger? Thanks
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