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ftnpenlvr

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About ftnpenlvr

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    Member

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  • Location
    NH
  • Interests
    too many to list

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Tinkering - still learning
  • Interested in learning about
    Yes!
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    stumbled on it doing searches for ideas

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  1. Thanks for the replies, all! I consistently closed my calipers "just to snug", so that the leather would easily slide out afterwards. The ones that were super close to the expected thickness, I wouldn't stress over (and, honestly, almost everything I have done, to date, has been on 5/6-oz leather, excepting a couple of belts that were on ~10-oz). The one that really surprised me, though, was how thin the 10/11-oz sample was - thinner than the 8/9 oz. Mostly, that made me wonder if somebody grabbed the wrong piece of leather, but, it got me wondering if others had had similar experiences. I very much agree with what others have said above - if it feels like the right thickness to do what you want to do, go for it. :-)
  2. The finish is definitely a new one, but, makes a lot of sense to me. Thanks!
  3. Hey all I got some samples of Hermann Oak samples from Weaver, last month, in a range of thicknesses. Finally broke out my calipers out of curiosity, and started measuring the thicknesses. According to Tandy, thicknesses SHOULD be: 2/3 oz = 0.8-1.2mm; the sample was 1.4 - so, a little thicker. 3/4 oz = 1.2-1.6mm; the sample was 1.5mm - top end of range. 4/5 oz = 1.6-2.0mm; the sample was 1.9mm - top end of range. 5/6 oz = 2.0-2.4mm; the sample was 2.5 - just over range, and I may have gotten a particularly thick spot. 6/7 oz = 2.4-2.8mm; the sample was 2.8mm - top end of range. 7/8 oz = 2.8-3.2mm; the sample was 3.1mm - top end of range. 8/9 oz = 3.2-3.6mm; the sample was 3.6mm - top end of range. 9/10 oz = 3.6-4.0mm; the sample was 4.0mm - top end of range. 10/11 oz = 4.0-4.4mm; the sample was 3.5mm - well below the range, thinner than the 8/9 oz range. So, I definitely understand that there are ranges of weights/thicknesses, and that guide should be regarded as "-ish" rather than hard and fast rules. I was curious, if others have seen that same kind of variability in weight:thickness ratios. Understanding that the butt end is more dense/durable, maybe the 10/11 oz came from that end and so, while thinner, was the right "weight." That also got me wondering whether folks rely more on the weight than the thickness when designing a new project; the thickness might matter more when measuring a project with 90-degree joints, as it impacts your cuts, but, might not have so much to do with the project from a "sheath vs holster" perspective. I'm still pretty new to all this, so, I certainly appreciate any insight!
  4. This is the Keter I mentioned. Holds most of my tooling and sewing supplies. Does not hold my stone, stains, airbrushes, stitching pony, or lace, but, holds stamps, needles, one mallet, knives, most thread, and other basic tools. My mauls don't fit in much of anything, so, they just stay separate. Same for stone and punch block.
  5. Don Gonzales was giving away free patterns for tooling these. I have one (not the best executed, but, I will just be using it in my own kitchen), and created a tutorial (Potholder) for the broad "second handle" on my grill pan. They work a treat!
  6. ftnpenlvr

    Potholder

    I decided I needed to make a potholder for the wide handle of my cast iron grill pan, to match the "flame pattern" I did for the regular handle. That was one of Don Gonzales' kindly given patterns, and I put these together for a buddy of mine who is just starting out. If you sort by the caption, they'll be in the right order (except the last one, which was marking the stitch line)
  7. My wife found a Keter 16" cantilever toolbox at the thrift store. Works great for most of my tools. One compartment holds punches, irons and swivel knife. Another compartment holds most of my tooling stuff. Threads go in another. Tandy hefty handle goes in a forth, along with a couple of stamps that fit it. Up top, I have space for handle, groover, beveler, rawhide hammer, pocket knife, needles, rivets, snaps & buckles. All my finishing stuff - dyes, daubers, etc, goes in a separate bag. My 30-oz mallet, poundo board, punching board and a slap of soapstone just sit on top of the toolbox. When I am ready to work on a piece, I cut and put the cutting stuff away. The poundo board goes down, and the soapstone goes on top. The the toolbox gets opened, I do the tooling I need to do. Then I put the punch board on, punch, sew, and put it all away before the finishing bag comes out. While I am very new to leather work, it seems to work for me. My tool collection is still small enough that I can hold all my tools in one hand. When I need to find one, I grab the whole lot, look at the heads, and pull out the 3-6 I actually need for the project I am working on, and put the rest back. I am sure, though, I will want to separate them out into more organized storage in the not too distant future.
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