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About OldNSlowMarine

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    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Gun Leather

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gun Leather
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  1. Thank you! Yes, I used a leather backer for the shark. Once the glue has dried, I cut the excess shark off, sand even, crease for stitch line. Edge as you would any other leather, then dye. For burnishing, I use Barry King's Quick Slick, followed but black Brillant Yankee Wax, then buff with horsehair brush. After all that it gets glued in place. Oh, I hold off on sanding and edging the top until after I have stitched it into place, then repeat that whole process.
  2. Brother, that's a lot of good feedback. I'm done until a picture is posted though lol
  3. I've made one before. I used a roll of coil steel feeler gage stock to do it. I forget what thickness it was. Might have been 0.015 inch? I'm not sure how the mass producers of these do it, but I centered it between two layers of 8 ounce Hermann Oak single belt bend strips. I didn't punch holes in it for the buckle holes, just got somewhat close to the last hole. Not sure if they do or not. Last I heard, the customer liked it.
  4. Can you post pictures so everyone that is trying to help will have a better understanding of your process?
  5. Are you roughing up the leather where you'll be applying glue? If not, that could be the problem. I saw that you mentioned Barge. Which type? I've used the yellow/red can for years and it worked well. 1. Rough leather 2. Apply glue 3. Let glue sit for a few minutes, 5 minutes is usually good. 4. Warm the glue with a heat gun 5. Bond the two layers together 6. Using a cobbler's hammer, tap the two pieces where they've been glued. Or anything that you can apply pressure with. I've used a rolling pin before. I use my stainless steel boning tool now to apply pressure to the two pieces being bonded. 7. Let the glue cure overnight 8. Stitch 9. Sand edges even. Bevel edges. Burnish edges.
  6. Well, after months of experimenting, I am having good results. The past 5 or so mahogany-colored holsters have dried out evenly after submerging in a 66.67 acrylic/33.33 percent water mixture. My initial attempts at this was with a 50/50 percent mixture. I believe the higher water percentage in my initial attempts were causing the discoloration. At least my new results have led me to that conclusion. In a nutshell, I have a 5 gallon container that I completely submerge the holster in for approximately 5 seconds. I use a metal clothes hanger to dip the holster in vertically, toe first, for a 5 second count. Pull the holster out and using a heat gun, I blow the mixture towards the bottom of the holster. I don't wipe it down, but I'll dab any excess with a lint free cloth. The mixture quickly gets absorbed into the leather. Then hang to dry in front of a high powered fan until it is no longer tacky to the touch. Any discoloration usually disappears within the first two hours. The little bit that I have seen is just usually around the belt slot edges, but again, disappears within an hour or two. Note that, high humidity will play a factor in curing times. After the holster is no longer tacky, I move it inside where it's usually around 70 degrees. So far, I've only tested pancake style holsters with this method. The firmness is just what I was wanting. It's not board stiff, but I can definitely tell that it's firmer to any other way I've applied before. Also, the leather I use is Wickett & Craig 8 ounce that has been "holstered" to a very firm temper. The leather is also submersion dyed in the same manner here in the shop. Hope this can help someone else if they are interested in this method.
  7. 1911 Colt Commander holster recently finished. Shown here in an in-house custom blended mahogany, genuine black shark reinforcement panel, black stitching, and black edges all around.
  8. You may have to put in a special order somewhere. I have used Conceria Walpier "Buttero" leather many times, just not white. Rocky Mountain Leather is a great company to deal with. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/view-all-leather/products/buttero-veg-tanned-leather-5oz-made-in-italy?variant=32321117552749
  9. Nice! I'm quite the opposite: I love making all black holsters, but most people want some sort of color. Hard to mess up with all black. And if you do, it's hard to see.
  10. I use 8 oz Wicket and Craig for just about everything (holsters, mag carriers, and double layered belts). I would not recommend going any thinner, especially for a 1911/2011. Patience is your best friend when it comes to wet molding. I dip dye my panels and let dry overnight, then move on to the glueing and stitching phases. Once I'm ready to start wet molding, I submerge in hot water (from the sink, not boiled) for about 10-12 seconds, then place in a Ziploc bag for 3-5 minutes. Pull out of the bag and start smoothing out my sewing machine marks, then open up the holster and insert safe weapon, or dummy gun and go at it. I repeat my process until the crease lines are holding. The wetter the leather is, the less shape it will hold, it keeps expanding back out. Look into "casing leather" for a better understanding. As far as retention, I crease and impress the backside of my trigger guard. Typically all crease lines and impressions are usually darker than the rest of the leather. You can mask it some by airbrushing a light coat of dye over the entire holster after it's dried out, but I rarely do. Never used a vacuum either. Not saying anything bad about them, but they're really not essential. Have fun! Jason
  11. Thank you! I haven't been that active on there here lately. More to come soon though! Thank you Josh!
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