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Zozo

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Posts posted by Zozo


  1. On 7/14/2021 at 1:11 PM, chuck123wapati said:

    I once dropped an alcohol burner on my carpet when i was a kid all you could see was brown burn spots forming and getting bigger with no flame at all it was scary because i couldn't see the flames to put them out.

    Oh wow that is a scary though! But thanks for help!


  2. What is the best fuel for the alcohol lamp? Is it ethylene alcohol, or rubbing alcohol, or methanol alcohol, or denatured alcohol? I’m using it specifically to heat an edge creaser. I don’t know how many types of alcohol there is to burn but I guess as far as “best” im probably looking for which burns the hottest and which burn time is the longest and which is safest to use indoors. 

    here is the lamp I bought:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XWD9WWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZVT3RMMCKH3TR6SMK157?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

     


  3. 13 minutes ago, Samalan said:

    don't forget must stay tangent to the radius or you get behind or forward 

    I had to google tangent :unsure: I’m not that smart lol but it’s relatively easy to understand now that I had something to look at directly. But I understand now what you mean because at my last attempt to figure it out, I didn’t do that so I ended up with too many holes marked. It was frustrating but I got there in the end lol I’m just a little slow 


  4. I’m sure you know what your doing and my husbands right about me unnecessarily worrying about things lol but I got to say this, please be careful mixing chemicals cause you never know what chemical reaction happens like making poisonous fumes or igniting a fire or ect.

    Anyways it is interesting that Purell could be used that way, I rushed out to get a reducer right before the storm hit Texas but had I known I could’ve used purell i would’ve stayed home and used that instead lol 


  5. I have patterns where it calls for round hole punches for the stitches but I just use a single Tyne diamond punch instead because I don’t like the look of round hole stitching. But the spacing is already on these patterns so it’s easy to make. However whenever I try to make something on my own, say a tophat or a cup, I can’t figure out what the spacing should be to make everything line up right. Let’s say the bottom flat circle piece of my cup has 10 holes all punched using the 2 Tyne punch, if I use the same punch on the outer leather piece I will end up with more than 10 holes so it won’t work. Obviously I’d have to switch to the 1 Tyne punch and space out the 10 holes evenly around the piece but how do I accurately figure out the spacing. I need help so I can figure out how I need to do my own patterns like hats, spheres ect, basically anything circular. I can make my own designs but can’t figure out circular stitches 


  6. 1 hour ago, YinTx said:

    So if I mix the leather stain with alcohol, it would in essence become Pro dye?  I have some leather stain, and I didn't have much luck with it, probably because I didn't understand what it was to use it correctly.

    YinTx

    Hmm I don’t think so. The dye that’s in both pro dye and leather stain is an oil dye. This oil dye is not the same as the oil base in leather stain so I do not think leather stain and pro dye would mix properly. I’ve never tried that. However you can search for fiebings official YouTube channel and they show you all the products they sell and different ways of using them :) 


  7. On 3/29/2019 at 7:18 AM, Mocivnik said:

    I know there has been much talk about this topic, but nowhere I could find info about renaming actual dyes.

    Long story short: fiebing's OIL DYE doesn't exist anymore, it "transformed" into pro dye, right?

    Both, pro dye and leather dye are alcohol carrier dyes, while LEATHER DYE is alcohol based dye including powdered coloring.

    EX oil dye is now called PRO DYE and is still including some alcohol while it's made on oil base.

     

    Is there anything wrong with what I've written or did I understood it right?
     

    And since OIL DYE was renamed into PRO DYE, did the consistency of the dye changed?

    Almost a year late to the party lol. Fiebings leather dye is powered dye in alcohol and the pro dye is oil dye in alcohol. Fiebings leather STAIN is oil dye in oil, no alcohol at all. Leather stain is a true oil dye, Pro dye is not. Pro dye is used as a better alternative to leather dye, however if you mix leather dye into prime neatsfoot oil then it will dye your leather while conditioning it simultaneously and it even dyes more easily and is better and more cost effective then pro dye. The ratio of dye to oil depends on how potent and saturated you want it to be. I mix 3 dyes together in a specific ratio to get my own personal color and then I match it with prime neatsfoot oil for example if my 3 dyes together total 5 ounces I’ll add 5 ounces of neatsfoot. This helps me reduce the strength of the color so I can control more easily how much and how many shades I want on the leather while conditioning it. Also for more even consistent coverage I bought a Preval sprayer. Basically its a spray paint can thingy that attaches to a bottle my dye goes in then sprays. Can cover much more than airbrushes 


  8. Ooh that’s really cool! How did you do the tree? Do you use small paint brushes and basically just paint your designs with dye? I am curious about do more artwork on my projects like stamping and carving but lately I’ve had an itch to do designs with dye but I’m not sure where to start and how to go about it properly. :blush: I need to find a good comprehensive tutorial lol anyways you do amazing work!

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