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About BelleH

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  • Interests
    Small projects - dog leash repair, making small pouches for stones I carve, some upholstery, etc.

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  • Interested in learning about
    Walking Foot Sewing Machines for leather
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Google Search on a specific machine
  1. Chrisash - It never hurts to state the obvious. Sometimes it isn't obvious to others, or sometimes it is, but people get caught up in the details and don't look at the big picture. But in this case, I definitely was pushing down the button. LanceR - Thank you for confirming what I had to do (same concept as Constabulary outlined). I have success! For those that care about the details, here they are: Today I did a few tests. First I checked the number of stitches I was getting. It was 7.5. I then decided to start with turning the stitch length regulator as far as it would go. It again reached only "7". I checked the number of stitches I was getting, and it was 5. So I I then loosened the screw on the ring and rotated until "5" was lined up with the dot. I tested and was still getting 5 stitches per inch. I then did a number of stitch number changes and did tests after each. 7 produced 6, 10 produced 7.5, 20 produced 10. For the most part I wasn't getting matches with the number of stitches and the number on the dial. I continued with stitch selection until the dial wouldn't turn any more. This was near the screw, well beyond 24. At that point I was still getting only 12 stitches per inch. I then repeated the steps but now going in the opposite direction. I went back to 11 and I found I was getting 11 stitches per inch. At 8 I was getting 8. That's where I stopped since that is where I wanted to be. So it seems that the direction from which I set the stitch number matters. I've attached a picture of my tests (on light weight card stock). I also tested on heavy leather and I am still getting 8 stitches per inch. Also LanceR - I went back to check out your posts on this forum and I see that you had asked nearly the same question as I did back in May and there were a number of replies and a video on timing. I did a long search of this site before asking my question but that didn't come up. I guess it all is in the key words used. Plus I see that you weren't getting notifications of messages - I don't always get them either. Anyway, THANKS TO ALL.
  2. The confusion on the style of 226R-1 is completely understandable. I still greatly appreciate the input, even though it's for another machine. It gives me hope that there is some way of adjusting. But I suspect that aligning the numbers with the mark will still not get me "there" completely. Given the fact that I can set the dial from 8 to 24 and still get 7-8 stitches per inch means there is a lot of "slop". Going beyond the 24 does get me more stitches per inch, but that's a pretty wide range on the dial. Also afraid to push the dial too much further beyond the inch or so that I went beyond 24. I've attached a picture of my handwheel with the stitch length numbers on it. There is one screw on that ring and it may be what I need to loosen to move the numbers into alignment. I'm hesitant to try though as the machine sews so well, I don't want to chance messing anything up. As I mentioned above, I'm new to this and still getting my feet wet.
  3. I'll check it out. The diagram that you provided also helps. Might be that the number in the window and the number positioned next to the mark are the same thing and the same basic concept applies. Thanks!
  4. Constabulary - The 226r-1 doesn't have a window, but does have a mark to align the number on the dial with, so I assume that would be the same thing in principle. But I'm not sure which cover you are referring to when you say "open the top cover". Do you by chance have a picture or diagram on which you can indicate the cover and set-screw? That should help with the "5" setting and stitches per inch, but not sure if it will address the fact that I get 7-8 stitches/inch on any of the settings from 8-24. But maybe it will. Thanks. All input is appreciated.
  5. Thanks. I used the instructions in the Operator's manual (I have a copy) to change the stitch length during the tests that I described. That's where I had found the reference to the plunger falling into place. All appeared to work per the manual during the physical selection of length, but the actual stitch lengths produced didn't and don't correspond to the numbers on the dial. No where in the manual does it explain trouble shooting - hence my post for help. The parts manual is handy to have.
  6. I recently purchased a new-to-me, Consew 226r-1 sewing machine. After bringing it home, we gave it a thorough cleaning and oiling and it sews very well. I didn’t even have to alter the tension settings. Given this is my first industrial machine, I’ve been taking it slow, and testing out the various options, changing needles, threads, materials, and just getting used to it. My next step was to change stitch length. The previous owner had said that he didn't ever bother with changing stitch length and just used the same all the time, (~8 stitches per inch). The button on the base was a bit stiff when we tested it at his house, but after bringing it home, cleaning and oiling, it depresses as I assume it should. I followed the instructions, pressing the left button, and turning the handwheel until I could feel the plunger fall into the notch. From there I continued to turn to select a stitch length. I found that the handwheel would not turn to reach the "5" and would stop at "7". My sewing tests were done w/o thread and on medium weight leather, using a proper leather needle. I ran the machine using the “7” stitch. It produced about 5 stitches/inch. I repeated the process of button depressing, turning and stopping at various settings and then stitching. What I found is that pretty much anywhere from around 8-24 on the wheel, creates a stitch length of 7-8 stitches/inch. I did find that the selector would turn past the 24 by quite a bit though. I tried stitching there and that's where I was getting over 20 stitches per inch. I didn’t want to turn the wheel until it wouldn’t go any further for fear of breaking something. I also found that if I stop at a given setting, say 12, I get slightly different stitch lengths if I come at it by turning the wheel toward me than I do when I turn away from me (sometimes just below 7 other just above 8). For what I do, 7-8 stitches per inch is fine, but it would be nice to be able to change if need be, and do so with predictable results. I’ve searched the forum and found a few discussions on Singer 211-xx Stitch Regulator Jams, but nothing there seemed to apply here. Can anyone provide input on what I should look for, what might be wrong, if it’s something that can be fixed, etc. Is it a common problem? Or does anyone have suggestions on where I might find some info on what might be wrong and if I can fix it? Thanks in advance for any help provided. Belle
  7. Thanks for the input Constabulary. I hadn't considered that oiling also cleans. It's a valid point. You are right, opinions differ, but opinions also create avenues for different options. Whichever method one chooses in this case, the bottom line is, keep moving parts lubricated, and keep the machine clean. Thanks again to all.
  8. Thanks LindanHotAir. I had watched one video that suggested grease for the gears, but that is the only other reference to greasing that I had seen, so getting confirmation from you is great. My husband wanted to grease them, but we figured we'd wait until we received some replies to confirm.
  9. Thanks John and Pintodelux, for your replies. We have pretty much oiled everything that moves (and then some as the cleaning that we did prior to my using the machine removed all of the old stuff). There is no hole by the handwheel, so this might have sealed ball bearings. So far, it sews like a dream and I want to keep it that way with proper care. Belle
  10. Hi John, Good to hear from you and thanks for the info. We printed out the lubrication pages and compared the diagrams (with info) to our 226r, and unfortunately, the information doesn't answer my questions. The set-up is different. It was worth checking it out - thanks. Belle
  11. We just purchased a little-used Consew 226R-1 and have two questions on oiling. The owner’s manual does not speak to either of these two areas: Does the under-bobbin worm gear assembly need to be greased or does it get oiled from the bobbin well? On the handwheel-end, do the upper and lower cog wheel shaft bushings/bearings need to be oiled? There are no oil passages for these two bushings as there are for the other main bushings on these upper and lower main shafts. The sewing machine will not get a lot of use. Once the novelty and practice time wears off, the use may be an hour or so per month. BTW - We did do a thorough cleaning with mineral spirits after purchasing (machine had been sitting unused for about 10 years), let the solvent off-gas for a few days, then oiled everything per the manual and recommendations found here (watched a number of YouTube videos too.). But the above 2 questions weren't answered in anything that we could find. Thanks, Belle
  12. Thank you very much for the information - including the detailed description and the pictures. I'm in the early stages of my search and this helps a lot since it provides me information for comparing machines and also a "review" from someone that doesn't have a vested interest in selling a machine.
  13. Hanns - Just wondering what you decided to do about a machine. Did you purchase one? I too am on the hunt and I see that your original requirements/wants are similar to mine so thought I'd ask for an update on your search and/or purchase. Thanks!
  14. Thanks DonInReno. Travel distances and also having the ability to repair (which I don't without subbing out )!I just sent you a private message.
  15. Thank you again, Uwe. I found this site about a year and a half ago when I first started looking for a used machine in earnest. I did quite a bit of reading and studying. Then shelter-in-place hit and used machines in my area disappeared from Craigslist, etc. Now they are appearing once again and I have continued my research as options come up. Looking up the Artisan 1797-AB in the search engine here lead to more questions, hence my posting. As for other machines, I did in the past, for example, look up Juki 1541S to compare it to the Artisan 1541S and The Titan 1541S. Differences like one head being made in Japan and another in China, but hooks both being made in Japan made sense, as did some coming with a 'raise the pressure foot height on the fly" option, but things like the ability to use thicker threads versus lighter ones weren't as obvious. What I do doesn't require thick thread, etc. Thanks again for the additional info.
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