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About JohnnyLongpants

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  • Interests
    Making leather goods by hand, only

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Bags, covers, pouches
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    referral by a fellow hobbyist

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  1. It's beautiful. Can you give an idea on the price you are looking for?
  2. That is a huge assortment. I hope some leatherworkers are able to make it and score some sweet deals. Thanks for sharing!
  3. For the price of one CS Osborne 1/2" punch (which is definitely a better tool, but...) you can buy a set of 19-50 leather punches in shapes, available on Amazon and other places. These are sharpend and made of ribbon tool. They are way better than freehand. One such set looks like this: 50 pc leather punch tools in shapes for $20
  4. These are pretty awesome: Cheap digital calipers on Amazon For about $11, you can get a pair that measures to 1/1000 of an inch.
  5. It is along the x axis. Coil two belt blanks glued together around something like a five gallon bucket and when the glue dries you will have a double-layer belt that naturally has a curve with no wrinkling. I figure a five gallon bucket is common enough to use. Ideally, they would be glued against a mannequin or curve of the exact size/shape of the wearer. To have a bend on the z axis, the top and bottom of the belt blank must be different lengths, either cut like a trapezoid or cut on a curve. Practically, it is much easier to just have two identical belt blanks, use those, and let them "break in" through use on the wearer.
  6. In a sense, it would be great to glue the belt on a curve. The main issue this brings up is for people who hang their belt by the buckle and want them to hang straight. (Some people roll them up and some people hang them.) Any easy-ish approach to this to use a glue and not a contact cement (like Barge). The white leather glue is good, or any wood glue. Be sure the outside belt blank is a little longer than the inside one. Then coil the whole thing around a five-gallon bucket and hold in place with plastic wrap from the kitchen. Let it dry overnight. ------=====------ To avoid wrinkles if the belt is glued while flat, I prefer to use a softer/stretchier leather on the inside as the liner. So, if the belt is very thick, such as for a sturdy holster belt, it would contain, typically, two thick belt blanks glued front-to-back, and inside the belt a liner of boot suede, milled vegtan, etc. (For those concerned about the transition from their burnished edge to the suede/liner, lay the belt face-down on your workbench after the glue is dry. Use your groover to cut through the liner and keep the liner centered, then bevel to remove any remaining glue.)
  7. For those who found this old thread, here is a separate thread that may help: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/96691-links-for-leathercraftlibrary/
  8. Tandy's Leathercraftlibrary page has a lot of mixed-up links for the various free doodle pages, pattern packs, ebooks, etc., that they offer. (When you click on the item you want to read, it gives the right description but when you click on the Read Now link, other patterns appear.) For those who can't go through each page to find the pattern they wanted, attached are two versions of the same file. Each file contains clickable links for all 999 of them. The one ending in .docx should work in Microsoft Word. The one ending in .rtf should open in Wordpad. In either file, click Ctrl-F to search for the name of the one you want, or go one by one and download. You should be able to just click on any of the items and have it open the webpage. Don't forget to save each one you want. This should not violate any rules or laws, as it's just a list of their own links. Enjoy! -JL leathercraftlibrary_links-210803.docx leathercraftlibrary_links-210803.rtf
  9. One thing you can do is use synthetic thread. These are very hard to dye (use boiling acid, etc.) so if they are not fully white they just need cleaned. Saddle soap is good for that. The other option is to use linen. Wax it and then apply a sealer, like resolene. Keep applying wax as needed, esprcially paraffin (checking canning section on supermarket). When done, clean with saddle soap.
  10. platazote can be purchased from shoe repair supply shops. Among others (Franklin, Southern), Landwerlen Leather in Indianapolis carries it in various thicknesses. This particular foam is used commonly in braces, orthotics, prosthetics, etc. It has a very specific softness/firmness for things like diabetic insoles. There are other foams like neoprene, latex, or eva "cloud" that are good for backing leather because they use similar adhesives. These are commonly used in shoemaking and shoe repair, so have the same skin contact as a belt would, basically. This stuff is simlar but softer than what cheap flipflops are made of. Cloud is probably the cheapest, and starts at about 3mm thick. I usually pad things with neoprene foam (scuba suits, mouse pads) or I use wool fleece or shearling. There are other, cheaper foams but if they arent made for shoes or something else used a lot then they dont last long.
  11. Buy a piece of cork that is an inch thick or better. I bought a 12x24" piece that was 1/2" thick and glued two layers together. Mark/punch your holes on the outermost layers. Then, glue the inner layers except the innermost layer to the outer layer. Lay those out flat on the cork and use your awl to push a hole through all the layers. Do thesame thing to the innermost layer--lay it on cork and use awl to push awl straight through. Then, apply adhesive to the innermost layer and next layer up. Don't press it together. Start sewing. You have a needle poking through 2-3 layers through an existing hole, and the other needle coming in through 1 layer with the holes premade. As you stitch awl-free, align the edges. I suggest cutting each layer slightly large in order to be able to cut or sand the excess off when done sewing. Yes, a master could sew through this thickness on one fell swoop with just an awl and have the back look as good as the front. A $4k sewing machine could too. But if you dont have 10+ years to master awl work or 4k to spend on a machine, this will get you very nice results. It's just a little slower, unless you compare it to 10 years.
  12. Lexol Leather Conditioner (a liquid) is the one that has the most science behind it, besides British Museum Leather Dressing. I suggest Lexol because it is readily available at Auto Zone or Walmart and absorbs very well, even into exotics Nearly any are good. It's like choosing the 'best' soap for your skin.
  13. Five years later and both the post and the profile are active. Maybe the site could use more maintenance.
  14. Here is what's weird. Six years later, and this post is still sitting here and the person's account is still technically "active".
  15. Why don't you tell us specifically what you are trying to achieve, because your original question was so broad and vague that it would be nearly impossible to give a targeted answer specific to your situations and requirements. If you want a glossy finish on a piece of leather (without saying whether you wanted aniline translucent-type dye or and even, surface-only, opaque type dye), and that happens to be bull--which, we will assume, is cow instead of the myriad of other species of animals from which they make leather, since 'bull' mostly just means that it is from the male of the species... I don't know if you are dyeing shoes or dyeing automotive interiors. So, my last answer is this: use leather-specific acrylic surface dye aka acrylic paint (but only acrylic paint that is specifically made for leather). Examples include Angelus and Wood-N-Stuff Leather Restore. After you apply a few thin coats, use a very fine abrasive surface to smooth out the layers you have applied, and then applied a glossy topcoat that is made by the same company. Use only one company's products for this and be sure to follow all directions without skipping anything, including prep or sealer. Linseed oil has its own problems. Among them, the rags you use to apply it can spontaneously combust. Shellac can work great, too, but it is sensitive to alcohols. Urethane has its own problems. Among them, you need respirators to apply it via a spray gun like automotive paint and if the respirator is not used, just a few seconds of exposure can cause permanent, irreparable, brain damage. But it will last the longest. See the challenge? If you want a permanent solution that can be applied to an un-specified surface without giving any indication of what it will be exposed to, then it is very difficult to answer the question correctly the first time because we have to guess your experience level, what material you are actually using, how sophisticated your setup is (home hobbyist or large-scale manufacturer), etc., etc., ad nauseum. Even the solutions I gave you will not last forever. What you SHOULD do is buy leather that already has a finish that matches what you want. That way, leather chemists and experts can use industrial processes and safety procedures to create those finishes. Maybe that's too expensive and you are doing this on a shoestring. How would anyone know? All of that information was left out of the request. Shoe polish works great... assuming you apply it correctly. But it will not last forever. Neither will the leather. Again, what are you trying to achieve? In fact, none of these solutions will work forever and none of them will stick forever unless you get into a plastic or vinyl-based product. That creates its own ethical, pollution, moral, and environmental concerns. Even rocks wear away. Better questions will get better answers, but they won't be from me. Can you see the difficulty or frustration someone trying to answer you could face?
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