Sasho

I have the chance to buy an Adler 269, efka motor with automatic options for a really good price, the only problem is that the efka comes with a 3 phase socket. My question: will there be any difficulties converting the motor for home use, since theres electronic functions involved. Thanks alot for your help or suggestions

Hello I've almost restored both of the machines, besides the painting (which I won't bother to renovate) I've put considerable amount of hours cleaning and oiling both of the machines Both of them work and hook assembly seems in a very good condition Bevel gears are also great Unfortunately while I was cleaning the machines somehow I've lost a bushing I am trying to figure out which part number is it since it's quite confusing Its common in the classes, but I am open to suggestions to diy one by myself Providing photos Thanks alot!

I came across two 169 adlers for about 600 euros for both of the machines. Some small business that is going bankruptcy sells them Went to check them in person Machines look quite dirty and neglected as they are no longer in use Everything in terms of parts is there, they move freely and the hook assembly for both of the machines is doing the job of picking thread up. The gear belts for both of the machine was looking abit sketchy as they seemed abit narrow for the cogs. I will really appreciate some thoughts whether I should buy the machines and savе them from going into oblivion or I should stay away and not invest time in restoring them

Usually 2 layers + 2 layers of inner lining and occasionally webbing between that, my skipped stitches are extremely rare, but happens 90% of these rare times when doing a reverse. I am using gutermann Tera which is 100 % polyester continuous filament

Hey, I've followed very pricesly the manual, using a caliper. Timing seems perfect

Timing and space between needle

Hey, lately I've been experiencing strange skipped stitches, this happens very very rarely, but especially when doing a reverse. I've checked timing properly following the manual and adjusted it correctly. This still happens on some occasions, mostly when I transition from a thicker section to less bulky one. I sew canvas and Cordura with a 100/16 needle and size 50 thread. Can the skipping be due to the thicker material deflecting the needle? There's a little play in my need bar that might be doing this, but I am not 100% sure. Hook seems in a very good condition. Any suggestions is very welcomed, thank you

As it says, what viscosity would you suggest for slower operating machine. Thicker will be better for my adler 69? Currently have 32 and 22 so I was wondering which would be more beneficial for the machine Thank you

Hello I was wondering would a binding set from Pfaff 335 fit on a adler 69,since these parts are widely available in my home country, but the adler ones are only to be find abroad online, thanks for your help

Hello, can the machine above be converted to accommodate a synchronized binder. Would this kit be enough and compatible with the machine? image (1).webp

Hello, it's my first post and I didn't find a better section to post this if this is not the place excuse me. On topic I have a walking foot machine, a new one I have set it, but there's a problem occurring : Whenever I try to lockstitch the thread underneath bunches up and is happening only when I reverse Somehow the above thread is pulled under without any signs of other problems My forward/reverse stitches are perfectly matching Upper tension and bottom tension besides this are perfect and in unison I have played with the hook also to see if it's misaligned or out of time, but I don't see anything wrong with it Have tried different size of needles and thread, but without any success Tried the tighten the top tension and its improving abit, but then the botton thread is showing ontop Providing 4 pictures, last one is when I sew and then turn the fabric which makes a perfect stitch formation I will be really thankful if you have any suggestions or have experienced similar problems