Kawakneurder

This stuff should be available in the user manual of the machine. Have you tried sending durköpp adler (or your local official DA distributor) an email? They are generally very helpful with questions and are willing to send the service manual for any machine they still have information on.

On aliexpress the pulleys are widely available. I recently purchased this one in particular and have found it to work quite well, plus they are extremely affordable. So far I have not found anything I can fault it for. Probably these are the exact same pulleys you buy from shops in the west, except now you buy straight from the manufacturer and thus they cost 10x less. 45mm seems to be the smallest size available, and as far as I know the shaft diameter is pretty standard on sewing machine motors, so it should fit yours as well.

Let me guess, the screw in the middle of the wheel? I have forgotten that one a few times, wondering why it wouldn't come off after taking out the set screws

There's two excellent videos here on youtube from a guy called MTRC Crane. I accidentally stumbled upon these videos, but these seem to show all the adjustments that you have to do on this machine. Maybe you can find some information on the marks in htese videos.

Okay, after doing a bit more reading, and with some help from this excellent video from MTRC Crane on youtube, I have figured out what to do I think (The video is about the Consew 206RB, but all the adjustments are very similar). If anyone with more expertise realizes this is incorrect, please do correct me. This is basically correct afaik This adjustment seems to be just for the lifter on the back (or knee lifter). So you should put the block under the outer presser foot. This also means that the position of h, and the position of the needle do not matter. This is mostly correct it seems, except for step 1. Apparently you are not supposed to put h all the way up on the track, and indeed if I put it about halfway, I already have a lift of about 7mm. If you do this, the machine doesn't bind up, and does walk. If I adjust the machine like this it does run, and when I turn the hand-wheel it does feel like a smooth motion. However, I can't give it a 'spin' with the motor attached, and have it keep running because of inertia. It does immediately stop. Is this normal for walking feet machines? Or should it be spinning freely for 1 or 2 stitches?

How to remove the upper shaft of a Durköpp Adler 267 (part 3 of 3) Step 7: Removal of the presser bar (for the outer foot) The shaft applying downward pressure on the outside foot is held between two holes, and connected to an assembly used to set the foot height (B2). Firstly, if you haven't already done so, remove the outer presser foot and the screw used to hold it in place. B2 can then be screwed loose, after which the whole shaft B1 can be lifted out of the machine through the top (you might need to unscrew the top bearing). Be sure to catch the assembly B2 and spring B3! They are not held captive. Note also in the pictures, that generally if I remove a bolt I immediately put it back into the machine. This is a little trick from motorcycle maintenance, it makes it much easier to put the right bolts back into the right spots. It also prevents you from putting everything back together and then discovering you have 'left over bolts/screws' (very common with laptops ) Step 8: Removal of the shaft Finally the shaft can be removed from the machine. Before starting it might be a good idea to have some tiewraps handy. Now start to remove the shaft, it might need some 'percussive maintenance' to get moving, so a rubber hammer and (soft, preferably wooden) punch are handy here too. Be sure that none of the couplings onto the shaft are skewed though! If they start sitting skewed on the shaft, and you start hammering the shaft, you can do some serious damage! Take it slow and make sure everything slides smoothly. Now, as soon as the gear with the belt comes loose (S6), make sure it does not fall down. Immediately secure the belt to the gear with a tiewrap. Then, whilst still holding onto S6, try to flip the machine and tie a tiewrap around the belt on the bottom gear too, this ensures that they keep synchronization. If the belt slips off it is not a big deal, but you will need to redo the hook timing. Step 9: Replace your parts Shift out the shaft as far as it will need to go, and do your thing. To put it back together, follow the same steps as shown here, but in reverse. Step 10: Re-synchronize/tune the machine After everything is back together, the timings of the walking foot, needle and hook are most likely off. Go through the procedures in the service manual to get these right. I do not feel confident enough about this to comment on this, as I am still struggling with this myself. Step 11: Crack open your well deserved cold one and enjoy Voila! 10 step plan completed. You have successfully removed the upper shaft, replaced your part and put it all back together! This step should be obvious

How to remove the upper shaft of a Durköpp Adler 267 (part 2 of 3) Step 5: Removing the needle-bar and inner presser foot assembly If done properly the entire needle-bar and presser foot assembly can be taken out. As shown, you do not need to remove either the foot or the needle for this to work. Firstly remove the setscrew N1-1 at the top of the machine. Now pin N1 can be taken out of the machine. It is helpful to know that it can be pushed from the opposite side of the head (hidden in the picture, location N1-2). If it is particularly persistent, use a hammer and punch (preferably soft punch). After this is removed, the whole assembly N2 should just slide out. Note that there is a little square (copper?) guide block which synchronizes the top foot to the bottom feed dog. This part is not held captive, so make sure this doesn't disappear into some dark corner of your room if it falls off. Step 6: Remove the take-up lever linkage assembly In a previous post I have already highlighted how to do this. First remove set screw T1-2. Now only T1 is holding the linkage in place. If T1 cannot be pulled out, you can remove the little set screw inside T1, and screw in an M4 bolt to get a better perch on the pin. With T1 removed, the whole linkage slides out relatively painlessly.

How to remove the upper shaft of a Durköpp Adler 267 (part 1 of 3) Step 1: Remove the following items (not shown in images because trivial): top leaf spring keeping pressure on the feet the top cover the belt cover + belt Front head cover Step 2: Preparing the shaft for removal: Loosen all the set screws that attach to the internals of the shaft (In the image: S4, S6, S7, S8, S9, Handwheel). All of these parts are fixed with two set screws each. \ Step 3: Remove the linkage and structural parts Disconnect P1 from the foot-lift rod (or remove the rod entirely, as you will need to do so anyways). Remove P2, and P3 which provide support for other parts, enabling access to the removal of the foot lift linkage. Note that guide-block P3 is the same as 'N4' in a previous post. Step 4: Remove the foot-lift linkage The foot-lift linkage is now held in place at two points to the needle bar. Firstly at point L1, and secondly at L2. The only thing preventing it from sliding off is a E-clip L2-1 on L2. Before removing the assembly from the sewing machine, be sure to remove the little roller L2-2 as well. It might be more convenient to first unscrew L1, and then slide it off L2. If you do so, the entire linkage can now slide out of the machine in one piece, no need to disassemble the separate linkages.

I have always wondered how good the sailrite machines work compared to a 'proper' industrial sewing machine with needle feed, as the sailrites don't have that. Then again, there's multiple youtubers (for example Jason of all Trades that Gymnast mentioned) that swear by them, even-though they have access to industrial machines as well. I suppose that is partially because of the portability? It definitely is a great option if you don't have space for a whole table, as it's either sailrite or nothing. Also, I really enjoy their youtube videos, in which they have tutorials for making almost anything. It's awesome that a company puts out such high quality videos for free. If sailrite had better availability here in Europe I'd definitely buy from them because of this.

Hello all, I have recently started to undertake the restoration of a DA 267 machine (some you might have seen this post). During this process I had to take apart pretty much the entire upper half of the machine, so of course after putting everything back together it has to be adjusted again. I went through the whole process in the service manual, and so far it seems that everything is working perfectly except for the synchronization/height of the alternating feet. The service manual is also kind of vague on this procedure, so I thought I might as well check in here, as there's some seriously experienced people on here who probably know the answer. Here's some diagrams from the service manual: So as far as I understand, the following is the procedure I need to follow consists of two main procedures: Setting the presser feet height, and synchronizing the presser feet height. I have gone through the procedure but it doesn't seem to work very consistently for me, and some things are very unclear. Also, the problem I am having right now is that I can get the feet to cycle and feed, but if I set the walking foot height to the upper most position (h all the way up track H in fig 10), the feet give a lot of resistance and feel like they bind or something. This issue I don't have at a lower height, so it kind of points me in the direction that I am doing something wrong in presser foot height adjustment. Anyways, this is how I think the procedures should work and how I do them: Setting presser foot height: What I think is the procedure (what I have done) is the following: Release spring P (fig 9) Loosen clamp w by loosening the two screws Put a 7.5mm height object under the presser foot Press the foot down onto the object, and tighten screws of w again Re-seat spring P (fig 9) Now the presser foot height 'should' be adjusted properly. I have some questions about this though. Firstly, step 3 does not detail under which of the two presser feet you have to put the reference block. Should it be put under the inner, or the outer block? Also, doesn't the position of h (fig 10) and the position of the needle matter for this adjustment? If it does matter, what position of the needle, and what position of h should I use (I assumed for h all the way up, as that is the biggest step height). Synchronizing presser feet height Set h all the way up in track H (i.e. largest step height possible) Observe which of the two feet (inner or outer) makes the taller step Rotate the hand wheel forward until the 'tallest' foot is just above the plate Loosen 'p' in fig 9 Press down the foot, and tighten p again Repeat step 2 to 5 until the feet have the same stepping height I am pretty sure I am doing this one correctly, but I have described it here for completion sake, as it is kind of coupled to the adjustment of the presser foot height. Does anyone know what might cause this binding issue? And can anyone clarify the proper presser feet height adjustment (in particular the conditions such as needle position and position of h for doing this adjustment)? Many thanks in advance

I believe you are correct with this. AFAIK the 167 has a bigger bobbin than the 67 and probably also has a bigger hook assembly because of it.

I was correct, the axle is removed via the head. After getting the take-up lever assembly out of the way, the rest is relatively straight forward. Indeed, T1 was the only thing holding in the assembly. To take it out, I took out the little set screw which goes inside the head of T1, and instead screwed in a long M4 bolt. With this bolt I was able to apply some force with a lever, and eventually pop it out. So for anyone running into the same problem, this is a relatively easy and cheap solution. After replacing the part I needed to replace, I put everything back together and took some pictures along the way. If I find some time I will do a short write up for anyone with a Adler or DA 67/167/267 (since I think all of these are very similar). I have already managed to do the hook timing and needle height (thanks for the great video Uwe, much easier to use than reading the service manual, which is quite vague with this), and also at least the walking feet are walking the correct direction. Now I just need to mess with the timing, path and height I suppose. Just following the service manual. Funnily enough, when I got the machine it had the 'wrong' sized needles (135x17). I have replaced them with the recommended DPx35 (134x35) needles, but after checking the timing it didn't seem to need any needle bar height adjustment. The needles are only .8mm shorter (38.1mm vs 38.9mm), so that isn't as big of a difference as I thought it would be, and it does show you can safely exchange the different needles without any adjustment (assuming the machine is properly adjusted in the first place).

A short update, I have send an email to DA directly, in the hope of getting some sort of dealer manual (if it exists) or other help with the disassembly procedure. They have referred me to their local dealer, and I have not heard back from them yet. In the meantime, I have come to the conclusion that I might have been wrong, and that the upper shaft must be removed at the head end of the machine, and not at the hand-wheel end. I believe this to be the case because the counterweight seems to be pressed onto the shaft and aligned somehow with the cutouts on the shaft (for for example the belt to the lower axle). Therefore it makes sense that they press this part onto the shaft, before putting it into the rest of the machine, as it doesn't need adjustment. Because I think this might be the case I have begun trying to disassemble the head of the machine. I will try to take some pictures whilst putting it back together so that anyone attempting this in the future will be able to use it as reference. So far I have made good progress, removing the linkage for the walking feet, and the needle/needle-bar assembly. However, I have ran into issues trying to take off the take-up lever assembly. Here is a picture of the assembly (marked as T*) and also the diagram in the service manual: For clarity sake I have also marked the needle assembly parts as N*. Taking off the needle assembly was fairly simple (although not so obvious) by taking out the set screw of N1, and then trying to push it out. For me N1 was stuck, but luckily N1 sticks out on the other side of the head so with a punch and some elbow grease you can still work it loose. It seems that the take up lever assembly is fixed in a similar way, with T1 being held in place with a set screw. This set screw is easy enough to remove, however I was not as lucky as with the needle assembly because T1 seems to go into a blind hole, there is no way to use a punch to persuade T1 to come out. T1 itself has a screw inside (visible in the picture) but this is merely an access hole to put in some oil. T1 itself also seems to have a cutout for a flat-head, but I have not managed to turn T1 itself. I have tried pulling on T2 with quite some force, but it doesn't seem to budge. Does anyone have any tips on removing the take up lever assembly? Or am I doing it wrong? Cheers

This is indeed what I thought (and hoped for), but sadly it is not the case. When I run my finger nail along the surface you can feel the pitting, and trying to clean it up with a variety of chemicals (including IPA, WD40, general purpose cleaner and MEK) didn't yield any results. Just to be sure I will try tonight to clean it again. The machine had not been used a long time I suspect, and oiling the reservoir that feeds this bearing is not so obvious. Also, the reservoir feeds through a wick onto a pad onto the bearing. I think this whole lubrication mechanism might have dried up, and if you just add oil into the reservoir without giving it time to soak into the wick and pad, the bearing itself would still be dry. And once such a bearing runs dry and starts friction welding, the damage is already done and beyond repair...

Old singers are extremely common, and unless they are a very rare model, or in extremely good condition, they don't warrant a very high price. They don't even mention the name, so calling it 'highly collectible' is not something you should do. Jason Of All Trades recently posted a video about this, also discussing the extremely high (often unwarranted) prices of some 'vintage' machines. Regardless, for 1234$ you can get an extremely good walking foot industrial machine. Unless you have a huge collection and this is like the last machine you are missing and want it in top nick condition, honestly that's way too high of an asking price. Even 675 is on the way expensive end. Even nick condition singer 201's go for way less than that.

Dear all, After having recently required a west German Durköpp Adler 267, I had figured out that two bearings had friction welded together, see also this thread. These bearings are mounted on the upper 'main' shaft, and thus to replace these, I will need to remove the main shaft. I could not find any information in the service manual about this process, so I am kind of working in the dark here, hence my questions for people that have already done this work. Schematic diagrams For clarification I have attached a schematic drawing of the main upper axle here (from the 1996 parts manual of the 267), with numbering for all the parts attached to it: Eccentric connection and balance weight 1 connects the axle to the rest of the needle and foot mechanism. I don't really know what 2 is, but I think part 3 and 5 are bearings fit into the body of the machine. Part 4 makes it possible for the windup mechanism to 'press' onto it, in turn making it possible to wind your bobbin. Part 6 is obvious, in transferring power to the lower shaft. Not shown is a connection between 5 and 6, which connects to a fork which drives another shaft (feed shaft 'B' in the service manual) on the bottom of the machine. I will refer to that part as 9 from now on. Note that the bearing I want to replace is not drawn in this part of the diagram either, instead it is visible under 'P', specifically P4 (axle highlighted in red): Note that part 8 is attached between 3 and 4 (I think?). Plan so far I think that parts 2, 3, and 5 are bearings that are fit into the body of the machine. Is this correct? They can just stay in the machine right? My 'plan of attack' so far is: Undo the setscrews of parts 4, 6, 7, 8 and 9 Proceed to 'pull out' the shaft in the direction of the hand-wheel, just far enough to take off bearing 8. Replace bearing 8 with the new part After it is replaced, push back the shaft re-tighten parts 4, 6, 7, 8, 9 oil everything re-calibrate the machine timing (needle, hook and feet). Is this how it should be done, or do I need to disassemble the entire head of the machine (needle and foot mechanisms)? The eccentric and balance weight 1 seems to be 'press fit' onto a part of the shaft that is made of nylon. Can I pull the shaft out of this part? And how do you properly align this when assembling the machine again (or is that not important at all?)? Am I missing anything? If you have any other tips or tricks I should know, or that would come in handy, they are always greatly appreciated! Thank you all in advance for your help

I think you are definitely correct about this. And it is definitely a test that I will do in the future with other machines. I am sure I would have picked up on it. When disconnecting the bearing it is now very obvious that the machine turns much, much smoother. Some positive news though, after a (very long and arduous) negotiation with the seller he has agreed to pay back 450 euro, and I will fix the unit myself. I have already ordered the two replacement parts that have been damaged. If I manage to repair it by just replacing these parts, then I have picked the machine up for quite a good price.

Thanks for the reply Gymnast, I appreciate it. That is indeed what I suspected, what a bummer. Luckily I live in a country which has clear laws that dictate that he should either fully refund me, including shipping, or repair it fully at his costs. Of course he seems to be struggling about this, but in the end I hope I can get something satisfactory. Of course he tries to bring up it is second hand, and that maybe I treated it wrong, but I think the machine should have ran for a long time without lubrication for this to happen, and I lubricated the machine before using it when I got it, so seems like it is his responsibility regardless. Alternatively I suggested to him to refund a (large) part of what I paid him, and let me fix it myself, although I have found that these two parts are pretty hard to find. Thanks for the references, I will read through them. On a quick skim it does seem that there's two ways of doing it: Cheap/shitty servo or clutch motor + Speed reducer + smaller pulley Good servo with control to low RPMs When the problem about the bearing is solved, I will delve further into this, as at least I can use the machine whilst trying to find a solution for more control. There's a good chance he will have to fully refund me and take back the machine, in which case I will look for another machine and ensure it is working flawlessly before purchasing it...

A little update, I have found the part that caused the hang! There is a cam system that moves the middle foot (I believe it is called the 'feeding foot', with the outside being the 'presser foot'). This cam system has apparently 4 points of adjustment: Position of a cam attached to the mainshaft fixation of a cam on the rear Bolt 1 on a small rear axle, on the side of the cam to the main shaft Bolt 2 on the rear axle, closer to the head The above pictures are obviously from a few different angles to show all the parts (labeled). The cam bolt in place 2 has a built in bearing, which was stuck. After taping it out, cleaning it with MEK, relubricating with oil and putting it back it seems very smooth. Secondly, the cam mechanism of 1 also was stuck, and I figured that out by touch after running it a bit . The friction managed to make it upwards of 70 degrees according to my infrared thermo. I managed to pry the two pieces of the cam apart, I tried my best to clean them, but it is a bit annoying to do as you cannot get them off the axle without taking apart the entire machine. However, even after some cleaning they are still binding up. Is it screwed? I thought it shouldn't be *too* damaged, as there are no heat marks on it, although I had been sewing with it for a while. Also it does have some wear marks. But you'd imagine, the more things wear the looser the tolerances get. Anyone have some ideas? I thought maybe using some very high grid wet sand paper (2000 grid or so) to smooth out any superficial damage on there, but i am afraid of damaging the oil seal it has. What is left after that, is figure out how each of these bolts affect the timing/height of the feeding foot and what the adjustment procedure is. I have found a Service manual and I am currently digging through this, but if someone knows how to do this, or has a better resource, advice is always welcome. So far, I have found this older manual which details the timing procedure for cam 1. Somewhere else on the forum I have read that generally 2 sets the height of the presser feet, and most people leave it in the upmost position. It is a bit vague on how to adjust 3 and 4 though.

Hmm yeah I think I should reconsider a different servo. The noise this one makes might be annoying, but its not as bad as a 200 euro extra investment First I am gonna wait for the smaller pulley, see if that helps a bit, and if its not sufficient I might try to find a speed reducer somewhere. That actually makes a lot of sense, thanks for the heads up. Although I don't plan on sewing super thick materials, I guess the only advantage for me would be they are easier to find. Sadly I have ran into some other issues with the machine though. I started a first project with the machine today, and after finishing a bobbin I wanted to wind a new one. To do this, I put the machine in the highest speed (4500rpm) but I noticed it couldn't even reach 1000 RPM. It also sounded like it was struggling and not very smooth, and the motor was very hot. Turning the handwheel confirmed what i suspected, and that is an extreme increase in friction. Normally if you would turn the handwheel without motor belt attached, it should keep spinning a bit right? It does not at all, and is actually hard to turn. I detached the pulley that connects the upper assembly shaft to the lower assembly (sorry, don't know the proper terminology) and it still felt similar. I also detached the hand crank wheel/pulley, to see if that was the issue, and it is not. Also the bearing on that end spins smoothly. This at least isolates the issue to somewhere in the upper part of the machine where there is a significant increase in friction. Are there any components with these 267s that are known to cause increased friction with time? Edit: I have found that actually nowhere in the cycle does the machine release the tension on the thread (which I already noticed during sewing, but thought this was somewhat normal). I have cleaned the tension assembly, and that seems to work well, and is actuated through a rod that goes to the backside of the machine. Maybe this is related to this issue. I am still analyzing the parts list to figure out how this works. (Parts list can be found here if you want to brainstorm together with me). Never mind the above, when lifting the foot it does depress the shaft, it just doesn't depress it deeply enough to fully release the tension it seems.

So this confirms what I thought. Before actually using the machine I double checked the needle height and the hook point reaches nicely at the middle of the scarf. I have found that needle bar adjustment seems surprisingly easy on this machine, so not a big issue. Do you know what might be the reason to instead opt for 135x17 needles? Are they more common/cheaper than 134-35? I have thought about this too, and I have already ordered a 45mm pulley because they are so very cheap (should reduce the speed by approx 1.7x). I had a look around, and the cheapest speed reducers I could find were indeed around the 80 euro mark. Considering I might not even solve the issue with this, plus the fact that this motor still makes quite some racket, I think I might still opt for another servo that can reach a lower speed. I have seen numbers quoted of under 100 stitches per minute, so that would already be an improvement of 5x. If I add to that the 45mm pulley it could slow down the stitches by 8.335x which seems very acceptable indeed. Additionally I have thought of maybe getting a needle position sensor, but unsure about this still. Is there anyone on the forum who has had experience with the Ho Hsing servo motors? I have sent some messages to sellers around the area, but have not received any response as of yet.

As a small update, in the end I did get the DA 267. After a deep clean, and oiling every moving part and replacing the grease, the machine itself makes no sound at all. Only strange thing is that it came with 135x17 needles instead of the recommended 134-35 (DPx35). The only difference seems to be the length to the needle eye, and the needle bar seems to be adjusted to these needles. I have ordered some proper needles though, as it is probably better to use 'in spec' recommended needles. There is just one issue, and that is the servo motor it came with. It is a 'Kraft' branded motor (apparently a polish company), specifically the KF-550W. I cannot find any information about someone using these, or a manual. To be honest this motor seems to work like hot garbage. The minimum speed they can do is 500 RPM on the motor, and at that setting there is no control on the foot pedal, it is a literal on/off type deal. I could get a smaller pulley, but that still wouldn't give me any control in terms of speed. Probably an okay motor for a high reduction gear sewing machine, or in an industrial setting with lots of straight stitch work, but it offers not the control I want/need. Looking around I have seen that there is a surprising lack of proper, relatively low cost servo/stepper motors for industrial sewing machines. Especially the controllers seem to be lacking, really makes me want to start up an opensource project to develop an opensource servo/stepper controller... Regardless, I have found that the Ho Hsing G60-100 is available in my country (NL), and from what I heard other people on this forum have had good experiences with it. Is it able to reach significantly lower speeds, or will I still need the reduction pulley? At 300 euro its not a cheap buy, but if it really does give proper control it is obviously worth it.

Thank you guys for your response! Actually after some further talk with the possible sellers, number 1 didn't seem very reliable, and number 2 was not able to ship the item at all. Additionally, I have found a DA 267 (A german made one) in much better condition than any of the above, with a little extra able to be fitted with a servo. So I think I might go for that one. I will update when I purchase/receive the machine!

Hello everyone! After recently getting into the hobby of making bags and other rugged gear, and enjoying it, I thought I would upgrade from my trusty old vintage Bernina 742 to something more serious. Most of the stuff I make uses thick webbing/seat belt material, 1000D cordura and other heavy stuff. I am planning to use waxed canvas in the future as well. Now actually I dont encounter *that* many problems in terms of power, as when I do I can just manually cycle the machine. I have however encountered issues with layers shifting etc, and transitions from thin to thick material. Now of course the obvious solution is a walking foot sewing machine. Personally I don't have that much experience about industrial sewing machines (although I have read up about the basics). I found this forum after some searching on the internet, and it seems to be by far the place with most information about industrial sewing machines. Thus the post here. Currently I have my eye on 3 options: A Dürkopp 239 (with clutch motor) from a dealer, for 650 euro An Adler 167 372 (with clutch motor) mounted on an old singer table for 600 An Adler 167 with stepper motor mounted on a new table for 800 from a dealer Now it seems that the Adler 167 is a fairly common, and pretty highly regarded machine. I however could find a lot less info about the Dürkopp. The obvious advantage of machine 3 is that it has a stepper motor, although as I am fairly technically inclined, purchasing and mounting a stepper motor myself is not really an issue (seems the price hovers around the 200 euro for a reasonable stepper motor). Does any of you have experience with these machines, and which choice would you make if you had to? Thanks a bunch in advance! - Kawakneurder Here as some images of the machines: 1: 2: 3: