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Yogeri

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Posts posted by Yogeri

  7. Posted · Edited by Yogeri
    Clarity     · Report reply

    208 mostly Craftool, some ELLE and some Craft Japan. 31 3-D stamps and handle, and alphabet set with handle. Selling as a lot for $400.00 plus shipping. Total weight is around 30 lbs. This seems like a great collection to start out tooling/stamping, but after trying a few I realize it’s not for me. I will try to get some pics up, this forum makes it difficult with size limits. I check my email more often than this forum so contact me at augerijoe@gmail.com or (207) 831-9971. I will add more pics shortly.60F40E0B-ED8B-48AA-9914-98BE36B0235B.thumb.jpeg.c3e3d9b575bbdbe45c992fd031c1a7a1.jpeg

    above photo shows the 208 stamping tools, below are details of these here, the 3-D stamps and alphabet set. Sorry the pics are broken up, it was a challenge to get them all listed!

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry it’s been a while… but I want to thank everyone one who chimed in and helped me in my quest for a leather sewing machine. Just wanted to update this thread.

    My CB 341 should be here Monday, November 1. I’ll pick it up at a local terminal in my truck, probably will disassemble to get it up one flight to my leather crafts room. I’m hoping that I can get V207 to run smoothly through it if I have occasion to make small sheaths. Really excited to use this machine, it will up my game and hopefully help propel my hobby to something resembling a side business, for now. 
     

    I’ve retired my 31-17, replaced in its table with a very inexpensive Mercury 406 (GC6-7 clone?, that’s the manual I got with it). It handles 138/138 on just about anything I can fit under the presser feet, it even sews 207 on top with some complaining, but for what I’m making 69 thru 138 thread is all I need it to stitch. 
     

    (Sew) glad there exists a forum such as this! 

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Tejas, I appreciate the tutorial. I’m only familiar with bottom loading bobbins, and wonder if there are other advantages to top load as well? Do they generally offer more capacity? Allow thicker bottom thread? Stitch better with varying thicknesses along a seam (like going over seams whilst seaming)? Or are both types of bobbin orientations pretty much the same in basic functionality, aside from the differences stated so clearly above? 
     

    I’m convinced the Juki is a better machine, I just wish the ‘N’ could handle #207 polyester like the Consew. My 31-17 maxes out with 138 top/92 bottom, and will only sew up to around 1/4” of firm tempered leather, I want to be able do more than that! 
     

    thanks for helping, I really appreciate it! 

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Kgg, I thank you for your detailed reply. From my limited experience with industrial/leather sewing machines I sort of want the Juki 1508 for the quality of the tool. But, because it was used in an upholstery shop AND it’s not officially rated for thread heavier than 138, I’m mostly leaning toward a new Consew 206. I’m very mechanically inclined, have become quite familiar with tuning and changing parts in my Singer 31-17 (which I bought as a head only, now it rests in a sweet vintage table  I rehabilitated, complete with a new servo) and my basket case Singer 151W2 that with a new hook and modified to fit feet still isn’t up to the tasks that I ungratefully asked of it, I’m not deterred by a used machine. I’m just not certain the Juki in this case is going to be the best decision. I may take your advice and see if the Juki 1508 can do what want before making what I consider a long term investment. A decent cylinder arm with reverse is unfortunately out of my budget at this time. I’ve made some pretty good things on my 31-17, and a walking foot flat bed will undoubtedly expand what I can create. I like these kinds of problems in my life. Thanks again for your thoughts, I really appreciate it!

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Opinions please… after struggling with making wallets, small backpacks, totes and crossbody type bags with everything from veg tan to softer oil/chrome tan on my 31-17, I think I need to up my game with a compound feed machine. Something that can handle some changes in thickness along a seam. I’m almost set on a new Consew 206RB-5, but locally for a few hundred less I can buy a used Juki LU 1508N. Which one would you choose? Sewing 207 polyester would be a nice option, could the Juki LU1508N (wish it was an ‘NH’) do that? Would a used/very good condition Juki be a superior machine to the new Consew, quality-wise? Around 1500 bucks is my budget, or as much as my partner in crime (aka wife) will let me spend on my new hobby…
     

    Thank you in advance for your limitless insight!

    Joe

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Wow, after looking at both Constabulary’s and Dream4est’s hooks, I’m wishing I had a bigger one! No joke implied, nope not from me…

    before I mess with the timing belt, or any other adjustments, I think if I want to use my 151W2 a new hook is in my 
     

    I’m going to measure my hook as I’m curious how it compares to Constabulary’s 143W at 11mm. Seems like even one mm longer would help. 
     

    Happy you guys have similar machines and keep them employed!

     

    thanks!

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I’m a newbie. With that said, I recently set up my 1910 Singer 31-17 (same as your 31-15 for the most part) to sew leather. I installed a servo from Toledo Sewing, a must for me and controlling the speed. I have no problems with bonded polyester, 138 on top and 92 bottom, the max I can get nice consistent stitches from, also from Toledo. I also have no issues sewing two pieces of oil tan or chrome tan up to 6 ounce with the above mentioned thread sizes (size 22 leather DBx1 needle). I can sew veg tan as well up to 2 pieces of 4 ounce. For me I just find the correct tension on scraps of the material I’m using, and off we go. These machines have limits though, it likes flat work… meaning going over sewn seams can cause missed stitches. I use a roller foot. In my opinion, firmer leather doesn’t get along with my machine, but it likes medium temper leather quite a lot. When I make something like a backpack, I do all the relatively ‘flat’ sections with my Singer, and hand stitch any small area that the machine has trouble with. Just my 2 cents. 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Thank you both for trying to help me out! To answer some of your questions/comments: I’ll include a pic of my hook at the needle, this is the best timing I can get it with the needle tip just grazing the race on the needle’s way up. If I lower the NB any more the needle will scrape/deflect.

    the main issue with this machine is there are missed stitches, and the hook contacts the thread, damaging it, then all hell happens with binding and thread strands breaking! 

    I’m intrigued by the timing belt being off, to try this should I advance or retard one tooth? Seems the lower shaft is primarily for rotating the hook, upper for needle/feet movement, correct?
     

    I have the hook almost touching the needle, but not in the scarf where I’d like it, see pic…

    I’m using 135x1 needles, there’s a 22 in it now. But I’ve tried smaller ones as well. With different types/sizes of thread. Pretty much the same issues. 

    The pics of new hooks show a ‘sharp’ point, mine looks to be worn, I’ve sanded with 1200 grit to remove any burrs and notice it looks more like a blunt chisel. But it definitely isn’t pointy, I’m wondering if a new one would be longer and hence hit in 20710F64-6ACB-4BD1-B73F-43168D447262.thumb.jpeg.3a1b61e6e63d062b54cb35b8c2e6f4d9.jpegF2B94985-4955-4FEC-9395-7A6C39858865.thumb.jpeg.7a5410950bbe6fe398ec35ddc353f1e4.jpegthe scarf area better? 

    I will have to decide if a new hook is justified, if that’s the best thing to try at this point, or at least that’s what I think. Real nice to know they are at least available from the places you’ve shown me, I really appreciate it!!
     

    Maybe I should stick with my 31-17, and deal with its limitations. It is a champ on mostly flat work with 138/92. I’ll hand stitch everything else until I can afford a ‘real’ leather machine. But it WOULD be cool to get the 151W2 in working shape for sure. 
     

    thanks again and again! You are the best! 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Constabulary, thanks a ton for your reply! Yes my hook does have the mount that goes over the shaft with set screws. The hooks otherwise are very similar. I was quoted $290: for a new one, which isn’t really worth it to me. But perhaps with what you’ve shared with me, I am a bit closer to solving my problem. I am attaching some pics, in one you might be able to see how worn the hook point is, and hence why I can’t get the 151 timed properly without needle scrape, if that makes sense. 
     

    thanks again!

    8BEA9138-02B7-405A-BE6D-4F61F0DD2170.jpeg

    4ABBCB95-861D-48D3-B026-8ADDD54CCE1C.jpeg

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I’m having trouble finding parts for my 151W2, I’m sure that’s not a big surprise to some here… I’m hoping that there is some wisdom you all can share with me? I’m in need of a hook and replacement feet. These seem hard to find when I specifically search the web with “151W”, are there other, more popular, models that share parts with my machine? Model’s that would be a whole lot easier to locate parts for that would also fit my 151W2? I’ve seen some ‘zig-zag’ hooks/gibs that LOOK very much like mine does but the reference numbers are different. 
     

    thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge!

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Constabulary, thank you for your reply, attachment and advise! I also thought of that, I actually had to move the NB up a smidge, and move the race out some to accommodate a size 22 round point whilst adjusting the timing. The needle tip and shaft were both scratching the hook body! I looked to see if I had 2mm left on the NB between the clamp and body at the upmost position and it appears that the clamp screw will hit if the bar is lifted up 2mm. I may try both methods to get a leather point on this cool machine. With the round point it sews two layers of 5 ounce medium temper leather pretty well. Nice enough stitch, a leather point would work better obviously, especially with 138 thread. My 31-17 definitely likes a leather point needle better than round for sewing animal. I wasn’t even looking for the 151W2, it came with a vintage table I found at a yard sale for the 31-17. I also scored two 31-15s, all the table accessories and some spare parts all for 200 bucks. Refurbished the table, added a servo, I really like the 31-17. I’ll make it work for the 151 too…my hands get sore from too much saddle stitching. Here’s the fruits of my restoration labor so far. I love “Old Cast Iron” and am doing my part in keeping it alive! 
     

    Thanks so much, Cheers!

     

    la6436BDFF-DAF7-47CF-9DFC-7B56FE43C831.thumb.jpeg.be1b4812b6455bed0ae94cc92bcaef53.jpeg

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hi everyone! New here and looking for some opinions. I’ll make this quick… if I grind 2mm off the butt of a 134LR needle (33.9mm to eye) could I feasibly make myself a 135x1, Dpx1 (31.9mm to eye) both have a 2mm shank. I want to put it in a 151W2 FWIW. looks like aside from the clamp end the rest of these 2 needles are pretty close? 
     

    thanks !

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