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About KathrynHD

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Learning, dog collars and wallets initially
  • Interested in learning about
    Leather tools and tips for making items
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    By searching for something leather related on Google
  1. I would be interested if anyone has one of these available or knows where there may be one for sale. The type with the gauge at the front.... Hopefully with a good blade and generally in good condition or fair condition needing a bit of spoodling. Thanks Kathryn Have a good weekend all
  2. Hello, few months on but I wondered if you sold the Krebs splitter? Thanks Kathryn
  3. It does seem a mammoth task the sharpening. I have seen videos on ones where you put them in a gadget with wheels, can't remember what it's called and that helps to shape when there is a bevel. Also graduating wet and dry paper fixed over glass looks a good option but I have only done a minimum amount of sharpening knives, just have watched a few videos too. It's all food for thought. Keep getting very tempted and then put off
  4. That looks very impressive...thank you, I will do some research
  5. Thank you for your reply. It looks interesting, I wonder how they worked....What is the maximum width of leather that will split?
  6. What is the likelihood of a Krebs machine being available anywhere?
  7. Hi Matt S and thank you for your response. What I am using at the moment is Veg tanned leather mostly around 2.8mm to 4mm of leather, a few different types including bridle leather. I have found it more economical to buy in long strips rather than buy a hide for now, especially as I am not entirely sure the best options to use and at the trial and error stage. A wrong hide is a big error! I have also used pigskin as a liner and nappa leather as padded lining. My needs for a splitter/skiver in the foreseeable future (providing people want to buy my collars) are around the 2.8 to 4mm (- ish) type of thickness for the face of the collar and 1.0mm-1.5mm for the back or for making card holders and wallets. What I would like to be able to do is sometimes be able to thin a piece of leather the same as I have used on say, the face of the collar, to be used as the liner, so it matches, yet doesn't make the collar too thick. It's difficult for instance to get two reds to match of different types. Mostly what I am using leather which is recommended for belts and will no doubt make belts too as they will be very similar and easier than the collars I am making. I have seen when looking at hides that you can buy 3 different thicknesses say 1.5mm; 2-2.4mm, and 3-3.2mm. What seems practical is to buy the thicker hide which you can use for all projects, whereas I would have to buy 2 hides and I may not want to make that many collars in that colour, or in fact sometimes I may want a contrasting colour. Also, it seems to be an advantage if you have the ability to skive the ends to create a tapered skive rather than doing it by hand with a knife....I have attempted tapered skives with a knife and had some success and do intend to perfect this, but on a belt for instance where they are quite wide and a larger item it would be good to be able to use a machine to do it too. One of my collars had an insert of tweed so the face had a cut out for that and I wanted to put a finer leather on the back which would be strong enough to account for the top section being cut out, but stronger than a nappa leather and hold the shape. Ideally I would like to have used the same colour...2 x the original thickness was too much so if I could thin a piece of the same leather so the overall thickness would be as I wanted....With the leather's I had available, I used a different colour on the back and dyed the edges to help it look right, which worked out fine, but it wasn't what I wanted to do. I would like it to be a bit future proof to still be able to use if I progress on to other things in the future. I doubt I will ever want to be making shoes, think my limit will be bags and maybe a simple briefcase , I also have a couple of watch straps to attempt for my sons...so would see how that went too. I have a hectic time up until Christmas with other work and commitments but will be able to make more set time in the New Year. It has been very much done in very restricted spare time up to now. I have seen one tutorial where the maker said once he had bought his splitter/skiver it meant he was using up most of his leather. Inspiring him to make things to use it up. He uses a hand crank model, I think he says it is a similar design to a Cowboy model from the US. I think similar are $2000 or more, and yet he still was recommending a few little adjustments to it to make it work more efficiently. That kind of cost is out of the question for me at the moment. For collars I would need to split up to say 40mm wide, and if I split down thicker leather for wallets maybe a tad more, but my main need at the moment would be for collars. So far the widest part of my one collar was 38mm but I did pad this rather than line it with a flat single piece of leather, so not so essential for that one. The other collar I made needed a 32mm at the middle point width and that is what I used the pigskin for (It was called Pitsford Saddle Pigskin) but this replaced what I would like to have created from splitting the face of the collar. May be that unless I spend a lot I cannot cover all those things especially on larger collars or belts. I know on the bench top Osborne like ones you have to pull quite hard. I have used this silly little one I have and been able to pull that through, but do understand it can sometimes be quite tough to do. I imagine the sharper your blade the easier it is. So, are you still awake? bet you wish you hadn't asked .....or does that help you advise me ?
  8. That looks a very organised workshop
  9. I started off with all this as I saw what I thought was a very expensive leather martingale collar online which I would have liked for my dog. It got me thinking I could make one for him myself!!...I am pretty good at making things sewing and upholstery wise,, self taught and had repaired a couple of collars for my other dogs. I had no clue at that time what making a good quality dog collar was all about. I was going to machine stitch the one I made. I do have a machine capable of stitching but once I started the process of getting some leather (you don't even have a clue at first what to buy for that!)..That then started the interest and maybe I could make more than one!..So I haven't been near a sewing machine (I have 4) as once I started watching videos and tutorials and reading up, I much prefered the option of hand stitching. I bought scraps off ebay, a few tools going by recommendations on tutorials or videos recommending what to buy, but I didn't choose the right leather or some of the right tools initially as I didn't know what thicknesses you use for any of it and didn't have a clue really what the tools were expected to do. A few months on and I have got the gist of some of the types of leather and what is good to use, wasted a fair few strips in the process of trying to cut and design a collar....(I struggled to start intially as I was scared to wreck the leather...but thought if I was training it would cost me to train and you can't learn without starting !!) My plan is to make all sorts but I didn't start with the easiest type and think in hindsight I should have.. I have messed about with word (not the ideal thing) designing what I wanted for my dog and creating a template and have made him a padded hound collar and then my son's dog quite a lot different and I have added a tweed insert.....I did scrap a lot of leather trying to perfect the cutting etc etc but I am pleased with the two I have completed...I made an okay job of the first hound collar, but I messed up on the one part so made another. So I have actually fully completed only 3! 2 which are good enough! .... but had a fair bit of practice in the process.......Time is the main issue as it's fitting it in. So, I have had a few occasions where it would have really helped to have a splitter when I was trying out what lining to use and if the leather was too thick. But I can't really feel at this stage I need one, I have managed without, and can keep managing without, but know from what I have done, and watching tutorials where they just 'nip to the splitter to split or skive', that it would be a great benefit to have one. Also have read many articles where people say they didn't have one, could have managed, but once they acquired one, wouldnt want to be without it. I am pleased with my hand stitching on the top but it's not as good on the back, particularly when you use a padded lining but I aim to make really nice collars, wallets (I have made one simple wallet and one card holder....not perfect but I was pleased with the card holder and if I made another it would be better ...my son has bought a few and says it's the best one he has used) So I kept checking on ebay for a splitter/skiver. I have wasted money on a couple of old machines with wheels which were not suitable. The only thing I have tried splitting on is one I bought for about £20 which looked twice the size on the photos and it kind of did the job on a very narrow piece of leather. It's a funny little thing, kind of quirky, but it's not up to the job, the blade snapped initially and my husband repaired it. I really would like to get one which would be okay for the foreseeable future....if I make a success of it. There is no reason why I shouldn't it's just getting to the point of being confident enough to take orders and I feel I need to make a fair few variations before I do, and become more accomplished and pick up some speed.....so I have a few more to make for friends and family in return for their feedback and they won't mind if they are not perfect. I have ended up mostly now, getting strips of leather as the hides are so expensive and noticed that you pay the same no matter what the thickness so would seem good sense to have a splitter for that and buy the thickest hide. Definitely would have been much cheaper to buy the expensive collar for my dog
  10. Oh, I have dismissed any of those I have seen thinking they were a cobblers machine.....Just too much for me in cost at the moment, though when I have a minute I will look and see if there are any videos....I have looked at crank handle ones online and thought that would be much easier and not stretch the leather....but they always come more expensive and I haven't proved myself yet to justify. It does sound a good one from the description but I can't justify spending that at the moment.....it would increase too with shipping and customs. They add 20% here of the price paid before it can be posted! Thank you very much for the link... it's another type to look out for.
  11. Okay, food for thought, thanks for the repy. seems people have their favourites which they learn by trying out all sorts, and different ones suit different people and what they need them for... I suppose at some point I just need to get one and see. I am reticent as I have made a couple of howlers in buying in the very beginning....a bit taken with the look of old machinery.....
  12. Hi, thank for your reply...I have read through the details on your website of your splitters...you don't mention the Joseph Dixon ones, and I had a post from you before when I was looking at the other Joseph Dixon I think, which I can't find. I am tempted by the one jcuk mentioned above (which I noticed after I posted yesterday) I haven't seen any chase splitters here for sale and from what you said you cannot skive with these which I would want to do. I am still learning so can't afford to have two! Maybe one day.... I have searched for a Krebs one but can only ever find old ads where they sold a while back. Campbell Randall have new ones but haven't responded to my email...may end up being way too expensive with postage and customs but would be interested to know. Then this one came up, the Joseph Dixon one and thought mmmm, maybe that's the one!! So considering that one at the moment. You confirmed my thoughts on the plier grip one, especially as it said the spring had gone, so have dismissed that one. Much appreciate all your comments....it's tricky to know when you haven't used any ..... oh and also do you know if you can get replacement blades for the Joseph Dixon and new rollers?
  13. I spotted this last night and the seller has sent me photos of the blade...I am very tempted.....thanks for your reply...will let you know
  14. The other which sounds good is the Randall Keystone Splitter. Very pricey like the new Osborne's but would be a new blade and sounds like it is set up well and going by Bruce Johnston's review
  15. Another option I am considering is a new #86a....it seems to have addressed the problem of the lap skiving with the addition of the little wheel. Nigel Armitage does a good review. I have been asked what I want for Christmas and am thinking if everyone just puts a bit towards instead of buying a gift it brings the cost down a bit. Some have dissed the new #84 as not as good as the old ones ?? And they seem very expensive here in the UK and from the videos of Nigel Armitage on both the #86a and #84 the 86a seems a little more straighforward to use. If I could get a good vintage one I would prefer that.
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