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Viking

Members
  • Content Count

    63
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  • Last visited

About Viking

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    OHIO
  • Interests
    Outdoors - Canoeing, fishing, hunting, hiking, marksmanship + bushcraft. Hobbies - leatherworking & Handloading.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters, Knife Sheaths, Belts, pouches, hatbands
  • Interested in learning about
    Western Holsters & Cartridge belts, buckskinning, Possibles bags
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Surfing the net for leather working supplies

Recent Profile Visitors

2,659 profile views
  1. Simple field holster I made for S&W 66-3 .357 mag. I don’t know how to make grey vinagroon yet, so it had to be Boba Fett rather than the Mandolorian.
  2. Beautiful work! Thinking about making one for my Henry .357 but a few projects in front of it
  3. Great work - I can see that rig working well with a medium/large framed revolver
  4. A very well thought out design. I like your riveting system in a he back of the holster for support, and your hammer retention strap in the 686 holster. Getting all the “moving pieces“ of a rig like this together for me is too much of a challenge ...
  5. I can’t even begin to describe how cool this is. Just when I think I’m started ng to get decent about my art I see some thing like this that blows me away. question: is it acrylic paint or dye & what do you use to seal it?
  6. Wow looks great! You have convinced me to make one for my Henry now! (I’m going to attempt .357 bullet loops on one side & carve the other.)
  7. Absolutely inspirational. The whole rig is absolutely crisp and flawless. I dream to be able to attempt this type of workmanship someday.
  8. I definitely learned a lot on this one ... bit super happy about the final result, but it is functional...
  9. Thanks for all the advice! I think I am going to run the stitch line “Partially” outside of the design. I did a looser molding last night & I think I can find a way to make it semi-reasonable with the carving. I find that pancake holsters retain pretty well even without a thumb break because the belt slots pull them tight to the body. I agree if it was for a customer, I would start over, and modify the carving location/size. But this is just a field holster for personal use. Call it “practice.” I learn a lot from trying a new style of holster, and it usually takes me a couple try’s to make something professional... which is why I have a bunch of rough “mistake” holsters, that while perfectly functional are ugly ducklings, for sure.
  10. I love it. What type of Belt loop did you use for Back of the holster?
  11. Hello - I’m asking for help on my first pancake, cross draw attempt for a Ruger SP 101. This Is my first cross draw and I’m encountering some snags ... Normally, I sew the straight stitch line first - then wet form to get my stitch line nice and tight to the outline of the gun. Will I Have any retention (or other?) issues with an irregular stitch line around the design I started to carve? It seems to me that moulding will provide a decent amount of fit? This holster will include a thumb break, for additional security. Or should I just sew through the carving? What will look better? thanks for your help!
  12. Really unique idea & well executed - I love it!
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