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Kristian

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About Kristian

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, bags, learning to make shoes

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  1. I don’t know whether if has a safety clutch or not. But I found out by accident that it was possible to reset the hook timing by fixing the bobbin house by hand whilst manually turning the wheel… So I found a position on the hook vs needle that looked ok, and tried a few stitches, which went fine. If possible I would like to fasten the bobbin house a bit more…
  2. Today when spooling thread onto the bobbin, I forgot to remove the thread from the needle, hence made a thread salad in the bobbin housing. I managed to remove it, but the machine wouldnt stitch afterwards. I found out that the hook timing was waaay off, probably as far off as possible. I also found out that I was able to time it back just by holding the house whilst manually cranking the wheel. This tells we that there is something wrong somewhere, and I shouldn’t stitch until something is fastened. Appreciate any help.
  3. I have now tested this and found 138 thread to be the thickest possible for this machine (at least with factory settings). The stitches look best with the 140 needle, although I can also use a 160 needle without the hook crashing into it. If I want stitches thicker than that, I will either do some saddle stitching, or blow the dust off my Singer 7-33 that I bought a year ago but actually have not tried yet
  4. Tusen takk Tor! (thank you Tor!) I have ordered 138 Weaver thread from Skinnlåven, and 160 needle from Amatec. I’ll let you know how that works. I don’t know the sub class as the sticker on the rear side is partly torn off.. -Kristian
  5. Thanks for the help guys! Much appreciated. @Trox, I see you have a DA 267, and have had a 67 as well. Do you know what maximum size needle and thread I can practically push out of my DA K268, and still be able to use the 110 needle and 69 thread without using wrenches...? I am not sure which subclass, but I believe it is one that is listed with needle range NM110-140, because it has 6mm stitch length.
  6. Thanks @kgg! I am not sure which sub class my machine is, because the sticker on the back is partly torn off. Is the sub class given in any other way than with a sticker? I suspect my sub class is for 110-140 needles, as it was set up with 134-35 LR / size 110 needles when I bought it... Is there anyone who have managed to squeeze 160 needle and 207 thread out of such machine? Of course I would like to be able to still sew with 69 thread without other modification than replacing needle and thread...
  7. Thanks @Wizcrafts! I will try with 160 needle and see how that works.
  8. Hi. I have an Adler K268 post bed sewing machine which I have used to sew shoe uppers with (110 needle and #69 thread). I want to be able to sew a bit heavier stuff as well (decorational belt stitches and structural bag stitches), therefore I have bought 140 needles and #207 thread. My problem is that it wont stitch. With 69 thread on the bobbin it just makes a big mess. With 207 thread on the bobbin, the hook won’t pick up the thread. Maybe I need to move the bobbin housing to the right ever so slightly? In that case, how do I do this? Appreciate any advice on how to make this work.
  9. I’ve handstitched a couple of boot uppers with 6spi. Guess it’s ok for boots, would go up on formal shoes
  10. This helped on my Singer 29K3. It skipped 10% of the stitches, but not after moving the needle a mm to the right
  11. Hi! I got a 1920 Singer 29K3 for christmas and wonder if it it possible to fit this with a roller foot as many use for making shoe uppers? I am totally new to machine sewing, however this machine seems for me to be in great condition. At least it does not skip stitches and I can adjust the stitch length from barely nothing to about 5mm. I am aware of some of the limitations with this machine (small bobbin, and leather marking), but I’d like to start machine sewing with this before I jump into something better and more expensive. It’s just for hobbywork anyways.
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