Jama

It's a 22. Thanks for the great chart. This particular cover is only PART leather, the insert. So what works for the vinyl bolsters along the seam doesn't work well on the leather section. I skim the foam back from my stitch line to drag it under the presser foot. Lots of little problems in constructing covers on the National, while the 111W-155 works great...when it sews.

Well...I finally solved the clicking. Blasted the inside with WD gel, moved the take up lever, removed and then reinstalled the threaded post, moved the lever further in, pulled out and cleaned the spring pin...threw myself at it until it stopped. I have no idea how I resolved it, actually. I'm afraid to touch the thing. I'll be sewing everything with the setting it's on, whatever that is. So of course it sewed fine for about two hours and then it started skipping. Changed needle, played with thread tension, set a different cone of thread on the stand, etc. I discovered I'm out of the size of needle I need. The 111W155 was locked up. Not one thing, always TWO. I called a repairman who complained about how "screwed up" it was and told me he didn't like people watching him before he robbed me of $165 and left. It will only sew with WHITE #69 and the tensioner twisted down until it won't turn anymore. It frays the thread. Basically I'm dead-calm in a sea of seat cover pieces and ready to go out in the cold and bang my head against the bird feeder pole. I need a back-up machine for my backup. It's time to work the puzzle and fall asleep face down in the keyboard. I hope the sewing machine elves come tonight and fix something so I can sew tomorrow. I left them a hammer and cookies.

We think alike, I did exactly that. The feed dog is a little out, but the clicking noise is coming from the RH side (upright) of the casting. I've taken the selector back off and shot some WD gel in there, in case it's just dry metal on the end. I can't see anything when I run it slowly that would cause the clicking. I think I will try turning the handwheel until the take up lever is all the way up and then reassembling the spring, pin, etc. Thanks Quade.

Hey you guys, My Singer jammed right in the middle of a set of Jeep covers, so I moved to the National 26-188 to try to finish them, but something is wacky with the stitch length selector; when I try to shorten the stitch there is a loud clicking noise! I pulled out the post, dial and spring, and I don't see anything wrong. After reassembling it, there's still a loud clicking noise, no matter where I try to set it the stitch length stays the same. Anyone ever encountered this issue? That lever looks lower than it should be and not really locking anything. Can you help me figure this out? The other machine (Singer 11W-155) is too messed up and there are no service/repair appointments for three weeks! This one is the same casting as Nakajima, Rex 26-188, Singer 16-188, etc., I have an eight inch handwheel with a servo. If anyone has had this happen, how did you resolve it? Thanks a bunch. (Oh, and if you'd like an Avocado tree for your sewing table I have a few extras, LOL!)

Leather is your friend when doing door panels, because of its characteristic stretch, but here are a few things that will help with both your panel and those steering wheels; 1. Hide stretches ACROSS from leg to leg much more than it does head to tail, so lay out your pattern pieces according to the direction you need the stretch in. If you're working with scraps, tug until you find the right direction for optimum stretch and then mark the scrap with chalk going in that direction so you can orient your pattern right. 2. Parabond glue is the best. Often there is glue residue, foam remnants and stuff left after peeling the old upholstery off of door panels, and those leftovers can cause an incompatibility where nothing will stick properly. Parabond makes both a good cleaner and a bonding agent. It works fantastic on leather, especially if you spray it on with a paint pot. Both the panel and the cover get a coat of glue, you then let it tack up until it no longer feels sticky to the touch. Then you can reposition it a little before burnishing with a tuck tool to get a tight bond. I've used waxed paper under the edges, and I usually start with the deepest contour in the center, work it out to the edges. 3. Put a decorative seam on the highest contour, either double needle, felled or with a color band sewn in, to help shape the sewn hide pieces to the contours. Use Bias tape and a tight stitch, trim the selvage after stitching, glue the bias tape. 4. Schive the edges where you fold so you get a neat, tight fold without the bulk. I use a razor blade, but I'm old and I've been doing this forever. It helps if you plan the junctions between the armrest cover and the main panel and create some kind of a cosmetic treatment. (On newer cars they give you a rut to tuck the edge in, and often the armrest is a separate panel that you can remove if you grind off the heads of plastic-weld pegs) 5. Schiving is really important on steering wheels where you don't want any raw edges. The cut direction is the most important consideration, as you have to have that stretch going around the outside of the wheel, and in the center of the sections of cover. I actually enjoy doing them, but then I also enjoy banging my head on iron railings occasionally. Hubby is the plastic door panel king at Crush Customs, and a certified Katzkin Leather installer. I build street rod panels and do the old school stuff. Together we have probably done five thousand sets of door panels, but we learn something new every once in a while...you can never know everything! I hope these little tips help you.

Hey, New here. Joined mainly because I've visited many times, found help with several issues and wanted to thank you guys. Uwe's video helped me time my 111W-155 after struggling for days with a new hook. I found links to things like manuals and admired your custom tables. Been sewing since I was nine, a third generation seamstress. I mostly create street rod upholstery, but I also do furniture; currently sewing up a Barcelona sofa with button tufting. I do all of my own maintenance and adjusting, occasionally buy used machines and restore them, etc. I have two decent leather machines, a 111W-155 and a National 26-188 with a large handwheel and a servo. These two sew like they were brand new. I've had the 111W-155 since 1995 and only last week put a hook in it for the first time. I have a red eye (treadle) for when they shut the power grid down, it won't sew leather, but if I rip my pants, I'm covered! I got a double needle 112-140 recently, but I can't get the handwheel off to put a timing belt on her. The heads of the set screws are gone. Seems that's why there were parts missing and no belt, LOL! I'm guessing I'll have to drill out what's left of the set screws. The repairman that used to come to the shop died of old age, nobody makes "house calls" anymore, my truck gets eight miles to a gallon, so I'm not loadin' that filthy beast up and hauling her in to be repaired. She can sit in the corner and get even rustier. So, many thanks to those of you who post suggestions and solutions, and I wanted you to know I both look up to you and look you up when I can't solve something. I also came across something cool that you might want to check out if you want wheels on your stands, look for "workbench casters" on Amazon. You can raise and lower it with these. The K stands might be tricky to put them on, but they work great on straight tables if you use through bolts and enlarge the holes enough to accommodate the bolts. It's time to work the puzzle! G'night from Jama