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genesis

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Posts posted by genesis


  1. 4 hours ago, Samalan said:

    Barge is the best contact cement used with barge thinner it the best, applied right and nothing is stronger . Master bond is also very good on par with Barge . To me nothing works better than these for contact cement so there's not much point in looking all this IMHO .

    Thats a blanket statement i cant go with. I am interested in barge if its actually better for this purpose, but considering it seems to be a tossup between its strength and red can weldwood, i cant say thats a shining recommendation. I buy the weldwood im referring to in 5 gallon cans, so its most certainly worth "looking into" for me. Im sorry you dont feel as such. If barge works for you, great, but that was an off the cuff comment that was of no help.


  2. 2 hours ago, Tugadude said:

    Can't speak for the landau top issue, but Weldwood Cement is talked about very frequently here.  Personally I use the red cans and I know several others have posted that they use the same.  It is more than good enough for what I use it for.  I've also used Barge Cement in the tubes and didn't find it to be anything special, and Weldwood tends to be cheaper where I buy.

    Red can is a totally different formula orders of magnitude stronger.


  3. Hello all, 

     

    Loving the forum! My question is a pretty basic one. My background is auto upholstery, so leatherwork like most do here is a new territory for me. Basically, i see a ton of adhesives mentioned here, with barge and weldwood being mentioned predominantly (id like to try barge, it sounds great). But why is DAP WELDWOOD landau top solvent based contact adhesive not mentioned? In auto upholstery, its generally known to be the absolute best adhesive to be used to bond material including leather (at least in the USA), wIth regular Weldwood being pretty unsatisfactory. Is there a property that makes it unsuitable for leather goods making outside of automotive use? Just want to make sure im not missing something, as im getting ready to try and branch out into making some small stuff for personal use.


  4. 24 minutes ago, shoepatcher said:

    New the machine head only is a t least $2500.00  so no $900.00 is not a bad price.  They may have cannibalized it for parts which I never do.  It is great that you can get the parts.  I have a Juki  1508.  Had it for over 20 years good machine.  it replaced the LU-563.   Get all the books on it if it did not come with it.   part list, operations manual, engineering manual.  You will need them.

    glenn

    Thanks for the response! Yes, i have downloaded all the manuals pdf, however i would like to get hardcopies, as i am old fashioned i guess! I did think of cannibalism,  but its odd every machine available from this specific location would be missing them! Stranger things do happen though. 


  5. Hey all,

     

    Just bought a well used (from a major us based auto upholstery manufacturer) juki 1508 as my first machine (although i used this same model at a past job). It functions great, and ive seen no real issues, but its missing a few pieces it seems. The top tension knob assembly,  tension bar assembly, balance cover, and bobbin winder tensioner are all completely gone from this machine. Ive ordered all the replacement parts (except the balance cover, as they seem to be out of stock everywhere!), and the machine seems to sew perfectly as is, so i guess my question is as much acedemic as anything- why would these pieces ne removed, or were they perhaps optional or revision add ons, etc? The mounting holes for all of it is there, just not the parts. What possible benefit could there be to not having these tension items? My first thought was perhaps this machine was robbed to fix a better (cosmetic) condition machine, but all 29 machines i had to choose from were missing these same parts. It is an older machine, made in japan, model lu-1508n. Also, its a bit late to ask, as ive already purchased, but i ended up paying 900 for the machine with a servo motor. Is that a fair price? I bought it mainly as i have really only used jukis, and i didnt really want to learn much about the consew 206 machine operation (call me closed minded, my old jobs old machines were absolute workhorses, so i knew they were a quality machine!)

     

    Again, ive ordered all parts i could, and machine runs great, so im mainly after general knowledge here.

     

    Thank you all so very much, and i really look forward to learning, and contributing as i can (i focus on auto upholstery for my own cars, but love leatherwork in all aspects, most of you guys are absolute craftsmen, and im thrilled to be here!)

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